Throttle Linkage Modification Issue

[Don C]

Yes, it will work on that manifold, but that is not a Q code (Cobra Jet) Manifold.

 

[Hemikiller]

Darn now I am confused. Pictures of intake with secondaries much closer! I thought the 1406 would work on this manifold

That photo is of a 70-71 M-code intake (D0AE-L casting number), not the 73 Q-code. Pic below is 73-74 Q-code with the EGR channel.

I personally wouldn't run an Edelbrock anything on a Ford if you have an automatic, due to the various brackets and adapters required. Cleaner option is to go the Lokar kickdown cable route.

Holley or Summit square bore carbs will bolt to the 70-71 intake with a 1/4" thick spacer gasket. One can then use the original 4V kickdown, or it'll only require an extension if the kickdown is for a 2V.

 

[ROCKET70]

My brother put a Edelbrock on his Q code using an adapter and he car runs a lot better then the original Motorcraft.

 

[73CobraJet]

That photo is of a 70-71 M-code intake (D0AE-L casting number), not the 73 Q-code. Pic below is 73-74 Q-code with the EGR channel.

I personally wouldn't run an Edelbrock anything on a Ford if you have an automatic, due to the various brackets and adapters required. Cleaner option is to go the Lokar kickdown cable route.

Holley or Summit square bore carbs will bolt to the 70-71 intake with a 1/4" thick spacer gasket. One can then use the original 4V kickdown, or it'll only require an extension if the kickdown is for a 2V.

View attachment 63250

Thank You!!! That is what I thought might be the case. I don't even WANT to swap carbs and stuff, the original carb that looks perfect just is not good. I would let the car idle for a while just to keep it lubed during the down time and the idle slowly drops and finally stalls out and I can't figure it out. Just want reliable driving and car shows. If you have any ideas or suggestions I love to hear them. Thank You Again. Chuck

 

[Don C]

Is the warm idle speed and mixture set correctly? The cold idle speed relies on the fast idle cam and as the engine warms up the choke opens and the cold idle cam backs off. Check fuel delivery pressure and volume. Check for vacuum leaks. Does your car have the emissions equipment, like the EGR valve and vacuum valves? They all have to be working correctly. Make sure your problem is the carburetor before buying a new carburetor and have the same problem. Unless it is worn out (throttle shafts and bores) the 4300 carburetor is fairly easy to rebuild.

My experience with Edelbrock carburetors has not been great. For an engine that isn't built up I would get a Summit carburetor, easy to tune and reliable:
https://www.summitracing.com/search...s/part-type/carburetors?N=brand:summit-racing

 

[73CobraJet]

Is the warm idle speed and mixture set correctly? The cold idle speed relies on the fast idle cam and as the engine warms up the choke opens and the cold idle cam backs off. Check fuel delivery pressure and volume. Check for vacuum leaks. Does your car have the emissions equipment, like the EGR valve and vacuum valves? They all have to be working correctly. Make sure your problem is the carburetor before buying a new carburetor and have the same problem. Unless it is worn out (throttle shafts and bores) the 4300 carburetor is fairly easy to rebuild.

My experience with Edelbrock carburetors has not been great. For an engine that isn't built up I would get a Summit carburetor, easy to tune and reliable:
https://www.summitracing.com/search...s/part-type/carburetors?N=brand:summit-racing

Well I bought the car at Spring Carlisle Swap Meet in spring 2019. I drove the car in 19 and 20 and the car ran great. Stone stock restoration, nothing modified or removed. Car started acting up in spring 21 and I have had little time to work on it till now. All emissions vacuum lines and EGR present and hooked up. Carburetor looks brand new rebuilt like rest of under hood. I'm kinda stumped. I will check lines ect. Thanks

 

[73CobraJet]

I ran the car today after putting on a new fuel filter. Still not maintaining idle and seems to stumble upon revs. Now it started leaking fuel from the accelerator pump and ended up pouring fuel out the vents. After the car stalled out I could hear fuel pouring into the intake. SMH.

 

[DAverkamp]

I ran the car today after putting on a new fuel filter. Still not maintaining idle and seems to stumble upon revs. Now it started leaking fuel from the accelerator pump and ended up pouring fuel out the vents. After the car stalled out I could hear fuel pouring into the intake. SMH.

I'm not sure about all the previous "linkage" issues on carb vs manifold posted earlier but that will have nothing to do with fuel leaks. IMO, take it off and start over from ensuring your carb bowls, etc., are dialed in from supply line, gaskets, seals, screws properly torqued. When changing PB, jets, float levels, etc., is easy to overlook the proper tightness of everything.

 

[mrgmhale]

Fuel pouring out the bowl vent(s) tells me their is a problem with the fuel float(s) having become fuel logged and sunk, fuel float(s) were set too high, debris is between the needle and seat, the tip of the needle (made with Viton) is not sealing on the seat, or the fuel pressure from the fuel pump is too high (not likely with a manual fuel pump, but with an electric fuel pump I can see that happening).

 

[71ProjectJunk]

Darn now I am confused. Pictures of intake with secondaries much closer! I thought the 1406 would work on this manifold

That looks like an M-Code manifold, looks identical to what is on my car. A 1406 should work fine there with no adapter.