Tilt steering column

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
In the interest of learning, I have zero knowledge of these tilt columns. I have only worked on my standard fixed column. What I am not understanding is why the difference between the two. From what I have seen by watching YouTube videos and from other input, it's the top part only that has a knuckle in it with a rack system to allow the tilt. If this is so, why does the bottom end of the shaft need to be so different than a standard column and the need for a hard to source coupler? As I have not seen the insides of a tilt column, I'm thinking the shaft has to be heavier, but having said that, all I see in the Ford manual, is a diagram for a disassembled tilt column, fixed similar. That's it. No mention or diagram of the coupler. It makes no sense to me why there needs to be that difference at the bottom end connection. I have not taken the time to read all the manual's related section at this point, but this just makes no sense. Is it another case of Ford's weird engineering?

Education and comments are most welcome.
this is the difference that i have noticed, other than that i agreed with you why there need to be a different at the bottom 

B8A3E227-E276-43BF-85A9-07BAAE75A4B0.jpeg

 
this is the difference that i have noticed, other than that i agreed with you why there need to be a different at the bottom 

View attachment 48937
Thanks, It makes no sense for sure. Ford have several columns for their line of vehicles, so is this a case of using or adapting a column from a different vehicle? If I get really bored and need something to do, I'll take the time and read through my manual.

 
I believe the difference is due to how the steering shaft is removed from the column. On the fixed column the upper half of the coupling is permanently attached (welded) to the steering shaft and when the shaft needs to be removed from the column it is pulled out of the bottom of the column tube. However, with the tilt column the tilt mechanism and steering shaft are removed together with the steering shaft pulled out of the top of the column tube, hence the removable upper casting for the coupler.

 
I believe the difference is due to how the steering shaft is removed from the column. On the fixed column the upper half of the coupling is permanently attached (welded) to the steering shaft and when the shaft needs to be removed from the column it is pulled out of the bottom of the column tube. However, with the tilt column the tilt mechanism and steering shaft are removed together with the steering shaft pulled out of the top of the column tube, hence the removable upper casting for the coupler.
Don, that may be so, but it doesn't explain or give reason as to why the rag joint attachment needs to be different. The attachment could just as easily have been the same for both. Thanks for you input to my education. 

 
I believe the difference is due to how the steering shaft is removed from the column. On the fixed column the upper half of the coupling is permanently attached (welded) to the steering shaft and when the shaft needs to be removed from the column it is pulled out of the bottom of the column tube. However, with the tilt column the tilt mechanism and steering shaft are removed together with the steering shaft pulled out of the top of the column tube, hence the removable upper casting for the coupler.
so all i need is a coupler to fit the gear box shaft cause the column end should fit

 
I assume you have a Saginaw 800 PS box? if so, it's 13/16th 31 spline with a flat. Sorry, I don't have a pic of the coupling itself. You may have to make a hybrid, how, no idea.

IMG_0761.JPG

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I changed to tilt column a long time ago, maybe 30 years or so.  I have taken it out once or twice since then to work on the dash etc.  If you look in the Ford service chassis manual on re-installing, there is a spacing requirement for the rag joint.  I used a drill bit of the right diameter as a spacer gage when I re-installed it.  Also, when you install the steering wheel on it, I think there are alignment marks on the factory steering wheel and end of the column shaft to line up.  This should get you close to not needing to adjust your toe in/ toe out to have the steering wheel in the correct position when going straight down the road.  

 
To continue my thoughts on why the difference in the couplers for fixed and tilt. I agree they could have put the same type of coupler on the fixed column as on the tilt. It would not be possible to have the weld-on upper coupler on the tilt column due  to the way they are assembled and disassembled for repairs. Not putting the tilt style of upper coupler on the fixed column was just a matter of economics. A stamped steel upper coupler that can be welded to the steering shaft in a couple of minutes is much cheaper than a cast part that then has to be machined before it can be installed on the fixed steering shaft.

 
To continue my thoughts on why the difference in the couplers for fixed and tilt. I agree they could have put the same type of coupler on the fixed column as on the tilt. It would not be possible to have the weld-on upper coupler on the tilt column due  to the way they are assembled and disassembled for repairs. Not putting the tilt style of upper coupler on the fixed column was just a matter of economics. A stamped steel upper coupler that can be welded to the steering shaft in a couple of minutes is much cheaper than a cast part that then has to be machined before it can be installed on the fixed steering shaft.
 Don, you probably hit the nail on the head there, money. Thanks for your thoughts. 

 
Back
Top