The only thing common to the fuel gage and TS that I can see is that they use a common ground on the left TS. You could actually have 2 seperate issues here. The left and right TS have their own grounds and since both rear lights work I would think that the grounds are ok. That leaves the TS switch as questionable. For the fuel gage you could have a bad float or the gage itself. As Jim mentioned check and see if the connection at the fuel gage did not come off.Has gas, but good try Randy.
The flashers work. Turn signals, nothing. I did find that the fat yellow wire that runs up the steering column has been cut. I believe this the 12v source wire. The blue horn wire is also cut in the same location as the yellow...on the steering wheel side of the connector. If I touch a 12v to the blue wire on the dash side of the connector the horn sounds.
That's as far as I got with it due to work travel & home life.
BTW, the yellow wire feeds pwr to the ignition switch. By what I can see is if that wire is cut the engine should not run because when the ignition switch is in the run position it supplies pwr to the coil and when in the start position it supplies pwr to the starter selenoid to energize it. The selenoid in turn feeds 12v to the coil during starting and to the starter motor.
I guess I should have asked what year we are talking about. I am using the 72-73 factory wiring schematics and it indicates that the horn feed wires are Dark blue and yellow with light blue stripes. I doublechecked the solid yellow and it shows pwr to ignition sw. I attached that part circuitry.
Horn power (yellow or yellow/blue) is always hot, so some like to splice into that line for whatever. The blue/yellow line (horn out) is often cut because the horns may be on continuously and it's easier to cut the line than it is to disconnect the battery and change out the turn signal switch.
I had the same problem. At the suggestion of someone on this board I bought a heavy duty flasher unit and it has been fine for a while now.
