What did you do to your car today?

[marks73]

Got the seat box removed and the new pan set in to mark the size this morning.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Took today off and made some progress. Got the AOD bolts all tightened down, pulled the pan & cleaned it (also fixed the slight dent on the bottom), changed the filter, cleaned the bottom of the case, put it all back together and bolted on the linkage, kick-down cable, and wiring. Still gotta install the shifter.

Installed the starter... after running back to O'Reilly Auto Parts and exchanging it. I originally picked up a '71 FMX starter... and had to go back for an '89 AOD starter... duh. On the way home, the local classic rock radio station was running a promotional, "The next red car that comes into the parking lot gets a free full car detail package, valued at $160." I was in the left-turn lane heading away from the location, so I made the turn, whipped a U-turn and pulled into the parking lot about 2 minutes later (my '97 Ram is electric red, after all). The DJ was really cool, and even picked on me a little about being in a truck and that he 'technically said "the next red car..."' But it's all good - he congratulated me on-air and gave me a bumper sticker, too.

So, I got the starter on, tranny stuff's pretty much done, and hung the headers (bolts are in a few threads - not tight at all). Fit like a glove, no issues getting them in whatsoever... except... the lower bolt on the #1 outlet won't go into the hole because of too much angle from the pipe. So, I'll hafta pull the passenger side off and thread that bolt in before putting the rest on. Otherwise - perfect!

Oh yeah... left the camera at the shop again.

 

[marks73]

See! even a blind squirrel can find an acorn sometime . Prepped the floor to recieve the new pan. Got all the old metal out and ground down the spot welds. Tomorrow morning, sanding and weld through primer and lay that sucker down! God it's good to put in new parts after cleaning and prepping for 6 months!

 

[73 MACH 1 MAN]

To start the day I joined a great forum I think it was called 7173 Mustangs.com. Then I went down to my workshop and cleaned the rear end gettin it ready to paint, removed the steering box, filled up my new Parts Washer and started cleaning the parts Im reusing. Now Im sittin around hoping the Tornado's dont hit us!

 

[droptop73]

 

[Mister 4x4]

Very NICE, Jeff! Lookin' AWESOME!

I got the headers in, and although they fit like a champ, I can't say I'm very happy with the way the collectors angle in toward the transmission pan. Most headers have the collectors coming off straight back, but not in this case with the Hooker Competitions. Has everybody had this problem? (this is a 'before' shot, BTW)

I wouldn't complain, except that it's created three new problems.

1. The AOD shifter bracket location (stock for the AOD) has the shifter cable (and boot) laying right up against the collector. That will not do. I already cut and welded the shifter bracket to fit better. So that's done at least.

2. The AOD transmission adapter mount is right in the way of the collector reducers. I can trim them a bit and it won't be a problem, but I think I need to come up with a new solution. Might have to get a C-6 mount and get creative. I remember someone showing how they made it work on the forums.

3. The Pypes 2.5" Violator exhaust kit was built for straight-back header applications, which means I now need to figure out how to angle the leader pipes to match up to the 'X' pipe section inlet.

Even though I solved the shifter cable bracket issue, I'm still left with, "This is gonna suck."

 

[marks73]

Had to go replace an attic exhaust fan at my old house. (rascal started when I hooked it up even though I set the thermostat at 120 deg) Only found time to sand and prep. Hopefully nothing happens tomorrrow! :s

 

[rvrtrash]

Finally got around to installing the new hood scoop grills I got from Don at OMS. They fit PERFECT and I highly recommend them!

Steve

 

[TheJ]

Those look awesome Jeff

Very NICE, Jeff! Lookin' AWESOME!

I got the headers in, and although they fit like a champ, I can't say I'm very happy with the way the collectors angle in toward the transmission pan. Most headers have the collectors coming off straight back, but not in this case with the Hooker Competitions. Has everybody had this problem? (this is a 'before' shot, BTW)

I wouldn't complain, except that it's created three new problems.

1. The AOD shifter bracket location (stock for the AOD) has the shifter cable (and boot) laying right up against the collector. That will not do. I already cut and welded the shifter bracket to fit better. So that's done at least.

2. The AOD transmission adapter mount is right in the way of the collector reducers. I can trim them a bit and it won't be a problem, but I think I need to come up with a new solution. Might have to get a C-6 mount and get creative. I remember someone showing how they made it work on the forums.

3. The Pypes 2.5" Violator exhaust kit was built for straight-back header applications, which means I now need to figure out how to angle the leader pipes to match up to the 'X' pipe section inlet.

Even though I solved the shifter cable bracket issue, I'm still left with, "This is gonna suck."

My hooker competition headers do the exact same thing. I had a bent piece made to go on after the collector. As for problems 2 and 3 if you make canted collectors would this help, just an idea.

 

[sm3570]

Hmmm...nothing. I did nothing.

 

[Totalled]

I looked at it lovingly while hauling stuff in and out of the new house.

Daisy sniffed it.

 

[Mister 4x4]

My hooker competition headers do the exact same thing. I had a bent piece made to go on after the collector. As for problems 2 and 3 if you make canted collectors would this help, just an idea.

Crap. I was hoping maybe they sent me a 'bad' set or something. Oh well.

Actually, I modified the original FMX cross member (pretty much a big ol' notch out of the passenger side to clear the rear of the pan), and that's going to offer up a lot more room for the collectors & pipes - so I can call 'Problem 2' solved.

Now I just need to bend the lead pipes to match the angle of the 'X' pipe segment, and that should do the trick (great idea, BTW). Still a little peeved that Hooker would make 'em like that though - there's tons of room under there for them to come off straight. I think I'll be sending them a "WTF" e-mail with pictures. I'll post up pictures later - I'm still at the shop.

 

[marks73]

Got the PS floor pan down and about 1/2 welded out. Man this mess takes a lot of time and patience. No wonder I wasn't interested in my youth!

 

[Tnfastbk]

Got the PS floor pan down and about 1/2 welded out. Man this mess takes a lot of time and patience. No wonder I wasn't interested in my youth!

get back to work sissy at least you are not out in the blazing sun like you had your buddy doing the other welding

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I fabricated a cowl vent cover and removed the driver's side cowl fresh air vent. Repaired the printed circuit on my instruments; replaced a couple of broken clips on the dash panel; fabricated an improved bracket (Okay I clamped it in a vice to serrate it and bent it with a hammer) for the AC heat selector cable which had popped loose (Classic Auto air conversion a few years back) and reattached the AC vent line that was loose.

Beyond that I managed to log a 125 miles on the car towards the new clutch break in.

 

[marks73]

Got the PS floor pan down and about 1/2 welded out. Man this mess takes a lot of time and patience. No wonder I wasn't interested in my youth!

get back to work sissy at least you are not out in the blazing sun like you had your buddy doing the other welding

Very true! A/C in the garage is a wonderfull thing (sissy?) :huh: Come to NC and say that! :dodgy: Oh yeah, You are coming!

 

[will e]

My hooker competition headers do the exact same thing. I had a bent piece made to go on after the collector. As for problems 2 and 3 if you make canted collectors would this help, just an idea.

Crap. I was hoping maybe they sent me a 'bad' set or something. Oh well.

Actually, I modified the original FMX cross member (pretty much a big ol' notch out of the passenger side to clear the rear of the pan), and that's going to offer up a lot more room for the collectors & pipes - so I can call 'Problem 2' solved.

Now I just need to bend the lead pipes to match the angle of the 'X' pipe segment, and that should do the trick (great idea, BTW). Still a little peeved that Hooker would make 'em like that though - there's tons of room under there for them to come off straight. I think I'll be sending them a "WTF" e-mail with pictures. I'll post up pictures later - I'm still at the shop.

Mine are the same. Actually helps a little on the convertible since there is what I call a 'torque plate' on the floor pans. You end up running the exhaust inside of the tunnel and above this plate. The angle of the headers makes the bend in the pipe a little less obtrustive.

If you click on 'my garage' in the modification section there is a larger version of this pic, you will see what I mean.

It's typical for what you are doing. You swap out exhaust, tranmission and who knows what and stuff just isn't going to work together.

I remember being a young man working on cars and didn't understand this concept. I also didn't catch onto the fact that an aftermarket part might not fit 'perfect'. Now I am older and, well, older.

 

[marks73]

I fabricated a cowl vent cover and removed the driver's side cowl fresh air vent. Repaired the printed circuit on my instruments; replaced a couple of broken clips on the dash panel; fabricated an improved bracket (Okay I clamped it in a vice to serrate it and bent it with a hammer) for the AC heat selector cable which had popped loose (Classic Auto air conversion a few years back) and reattached the AC vent line that was loose.

Beyond that I managed to log a 125 miles on the car towards the new clutch break in.

Looks good from here. You gave me an idea for a repair. Thanks!

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I fabricated a cowl vent cover and removed the driver's side cowl fresh air vent. Repaired the printed circuit on my instruments; replaced a couple of broken clips on the dash panel; fabricated an improved bracket (Okay I clamped it in a vice to serrate it and bent it with a hammer) for the AC heat selector cable which had popped loose (Classic Auto air conversion a few years back) and reattached the AC vent line that was loose.

Beyond that I managed to log a 125 miles on the car towards the new clutch break in.

Looks good from here. You gave me an idea for a repair. Thanks!

I made the plate out of a piece of aluminum, that was a stop sign 30+ years ago, with a radial arm saw, a vice, a flap wheel on a grinder and a unibit. in about 10 minutes (and remember I am a lawyer by profession) so please don't laugh too much.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Mine are the same. Actually helps a little on the convertible since there is what I call a 'torque plate' on the floor pans. You end up running the exhaust inside of the tunnel and above this plate. The angle of the headers makes the bend in the pipe a little less obtrustive.

If you click on 'my garage' in the modification section there is a larger version of this pic, you will see what I mean.

It's typical for what you are doing. You swap out exhaust, tranmission and who knows what and stuff just isn't going to work together.

I remember being a young man working on cars and didn't understand this concept. I also didn't catch onto the fact that an aftermarket part might not fit 'perfect'. Now I am older and, well, older.

Thanks for that... glad I'm not the only one. Sadly, if the Hookers would've come off straight, then it would've been no big deal. Oh well... I know I'm pulling a lot of weird stuff outta my hat in getting this combination to work, so it's all good.

As I said earlier, I pulled the original FMX cross-member off the nasty old tranny and cleaned the crap out of it for an hour or so, then 'blasted it, notched-to-fit, then painted and installed. Worked like a champ. I put the thing between a couple big blocks on the floor and bounced up and down on it a few times with no sign of bending, so it should be OK, I believe.

Here's the 'notch.' Future FMX to AOD swappers, take note:

Back into the car, it actually fits better than the aftermarket unit (anybody need one of those, BTW):

And here's a shot of the engine with the headers installed. Sorry that it's washed out... I left the 'good' camera at home. This is the best my old flip-phone could do:

With all that extra room, I should be able to bend up some 'shorty' adapters to get the angles right for fitting the Pypes kit in the way they designed it to, albeit maybe with the 'X' segment just a few inches further to the rear.

Stay tuned for next week. rofl