What did you do to your car today?

[Mister 4x4]

Last week, I had all sorts of issues with removing spot welds. The bit was walking all over the place, so I decided to drill pilot holes - which wore out the center post guide and it snapped off. Then I attempted repair with the nail portion of a pop-rivet, which lasted all of two welds. Then I tried a real nail, and it got me through both outer cowl covers. Between the batteries on the drill wienering out way too fast and the spot weld bit issues, it took me almost 5 hours to get just the outer cowl covers off.

Yesterday, I found an old Dremel bit (with the grinding part snapped off) and used it for the center guide. After welding a blob on the end (to keep it from falling out of the bit), things worked really well. It's hardened and didn't get worn out from the pilot holes. SCORE! Still had the battery issues, but I did manage to get the other cowl pieces apart and the left piece of firewall scrap separated from the apron and frame rail on the driver side. Now, I just need to work on getting the torque box loose and then move to the passenger side.

 

[Qcode351mach]

Last week, I had all sorts of issues with removing spot welds. The bit was walking all over the place, so I decided to drill pilot holes - which wore out the center post guide and it snapped off. Then I attempted repair with the nail portion of a pop-rivet, which lasted all of two welds. Then I tried a real nail, and it got me through both outer cowl covers. Between the batteries on the drill wienering out way too fast and the spot weld bit issues, it took me almost 5 hours to get just the outer cowl covers off.

Yesterday, I found an old Dremel bit (with the grinding part snapped off) and used it for the center guide. After welding a blob on the end (to keep it from falling out of the bit), things worked really well. It's hardened and didn't get worn out from the pilot holes. SCORE! Still had the battery issues, but I did manage to get the other cowl pieces apart and the left piece of firewall scrap separated from the apron and frame rail on the driver side. Now, I just need to work on getting the torque box loose and then move to the passenger side.

Eric..welcome to the spot weld club only a few elite can hang there:whistling: Some times they go real easy & others well now you know..I had one that I broke 3 points on the same weld (shock tower) Just think what I went thru, I had to do the same job twice, once to get the donor parts off & again to get the bad parts off the car ..Best to use a variable speed drill & oil is your friend..Try some of the dewalt brad point bits ..trust me.. & a center punch..Keep the faith !

Scott

 

[don29163]

I sandblasted the shock tower areas and cleaned up where the new fender aprons will fit. started test fitting those and the radiator support. Noted that I had no idea where it went because it was removed when I bought the car. The parts car is so rusted, it will not be much help with measurements.

I don't have the bottom radiator supports, and they are not reproduced.

So, I drank a few beers and called it a day.

 

[Mach]

This is actually an update from the weekend efforts. The pictures reflect 40 sq. ft of Damplifier Pro installed as well as two gallons of Spectrum sprayed. It dries dark blue to nearly black. I purchased the recommended spray gun and had no problems with application. It sprays on similar to some bedliners and undercoatings (which it can be used for as well. I chose Spectrum as it would dry solid, allow it to be painted if a person wishes (and I may try in the trunk area) and provide the benefits of the sound deadening.

Here is a link to the materials used if any are interested:

Spectrum Deadener / Vibration reducer

Damplifier Pro

The last two pictures show trunk with Damplifier only then how it looks with the Spectrum coating. I was able to get about 4 good coats on everything.

I covered from the firewall to the taillights and stopped at the edges of the headliner. Time will tell if it helps but at least it is all encapsulated and will not allow any moisture and should reduce the overall vibration. I did learn a couple of tricks in the process if anybody else is considering do something similar.

 

[Qcode351mach]

I sandblasted the shock tower areas and cleaned up where the new fender aprons will fit. started test fitting those and the radiator support. Noted that I had no idea where it went because it was removed when I bought the car. The parts car is so rusted, it will not be much help with measurements.

I don't have the bottom radiator supports, and they are not reproduced.

So, I drank a few beers and called it a day.

Don the best way to fit the rad support..frt aprons..is with the fenders on the car ..If you notice i didn't install the rad support frt aprons on my car yet..for that reason..(I can't get the fenders on till the car is off the dolly) You will need the bottom rad support brkts or I can measure mine & you can just fab a brkt from some 3/4' wide bar stock (90's on each end) the lowers locate the distance of the rad support from the frt crossmember..Once you have that, you can rough in the rad support with the fenders & hood on..Then x measure for square from each shock tower (use one of the 3 bolts) to the fender bolt hole on top of the rad support.

Scott

 

[rpmcarter]

think I cheated...... my club has a car show this weekend. SO I scrubbed down the paint on the 67 convertible. I really did intend to work on the Mach I...promise.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Eric..welcome to the spot weld club only a few elite can hang there:whistling: Some times they go real easy & others well now you know..I had one that I broke 3 points on the same weld (shock tower) Just think what I went thru, I had to do the same job twice, once to get the donor parts off & again to get the bad parts off the car ..Best to use a variable speed drill & oil is your friend..Try some of the dewalt brad point bits ..trust me.. & a center punch..Keep the faith !

Scott

LOL!! I'm SO glad it's not just me then - I was starting to think I was on the receiving end of smite by the Mustang Gods or something. But yeah, whatta PITA. The bit's cuttin' like a monster (it's from NAPA and doing just fine) - just had the bit of trouble with the center point. Beating the crap out of the punch was still not getting enough depth for the bit to stop walking. That's when I decided to drill pilot holes. So far, my klooge-job Dremel bit is hanging in there better than the original point did (something about being hardened metal, I guess).

I'm looking at the same stuff with mine... gotta pull these parts off the 'new' front clip for use as patches/replacements on the car (after I take what's left of the same pieces off, that is).

 

[Mister 4x4]

Finally got all the firewall scrap metal away from the aprons and the frame rails on the 'new' front clip (but not quite done getting it away from the torque boxes) - now I just need to decide whether I want to leave the torque boxes on the 'new' front clip and swap them into the Rustang with the 'clip (and remove the old ones with the old front clip), or what. It appears that the tabs holding the torque boxes to the frame rails are on the inside of the 'boxes themselves - which will be impossible to get at without slicing them up (not to mention, welding the existing 'boxes to the 'new' front clip once it's up under there.

Any advice before I decide to fire up the plasma cutter and just slice 'em off? I am SO sick of drilling out spot-welds without stuff actually coming off. Deconstructing a car while trying to save the pieces to put it back together again is a major PITA.

Good news though - the frame rails on the new front clip are in really great shape inside... so some Rust Bullet treatment before the surgery will definitely be in the cards (thanks for that tip, Scott).

I had a moment of weakness in thinking that I wish I'd bought a Camaro instead, when my pal wheeled his entire front subframe assembly into the shop and noticed that it just bolts on. Grrrr!! Ford's 'better idea,' indeed.

 

[Qcode351mach]

Finally got all the firewall scrap metal away from the aprons and the frame rails on the 'new' front clip (but not quite done getting it away from the torque boxes) - now I just need to decide whether I want to leave the torque boxes on the 'new' front clip and swap them into the Rustang with the 'clip (and remove the old ones with the old front clip), or what. It appears that the tabs holding the torque boxes to the frame rails are on the inside of the 'boxes themselves - which will be impossible to get at without slicing them up (not to mention, welding the existing 'boxes to the 'new' front clip once it's up under there.

Any advice before I decide to fire up the plasma cutter and just slice 'em off? I am SO sick of drilling out spot-welds without stuff actually coming off. Deconstructing a car while trying to save the pieces to put it back together again is a major PITA.

rofl

Ummm Humm I'm so glad I'm past that after this everything else you do will be a cake walk compared to it..

Eric, the best way is to leave the torque box's on the new front clip & install them into the car...You have to be very careful with your cuts & how you plan this, I left a small section about 2 inches of the inner rocker on the new rail..so when i slipped the torque box & rail in this overlapped the exsisting inner rocker I was then able to plug weld & seam weld this joint..Don't cut anything yet I will make a short vid for you tomorrow & post up how to it. it's kinda hard to explain with out seeing Im thinking before I do that, could you post up a pic of what you have on the new clip on the side of the torque box so i can what your working with.

Scott

 

[Tnfastbk]

seems we have been doing lots of stuff but nothing really worthy of pics. still waiting on Americanpowertrain on my clutch. gonna give them a day or so and try them again. just a short update. brakes 95%, engine 95%, tranny 75% interior 10% body paint and underside 99%

 

[don29163]

Rear fender aprons are installed along with the cowl to apron braces. waiting on the lower radiator supports to arrive. I have been cleaning and painting some of the grill / headlight parts, and brackets.

The engine is also ready.

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

Rear fender aprons are installed along with the cowl to apron braces. waiting on the lower radiator supports to arrive. I have been cleaning and painting some of the grill / headlight parts, and brackets.

The engine is also ready.

Hello Don!... I´m reading you and i read a great plan working... Don´t you have pics of this process??.. Maybe you published somewhere else in the formun and i just didn´t see them...

You´re doing a major job in your front area and.... i just wanna see it!! jeje

KEep working! good luck!

 

[73vertproject]

Didn't do much on the vert today, EXCEPT FINALLY PULL THE MOTOR.

YAHOO!!





More in another thread.

Doc

 

[Mach]

Working on the front end today. Have both light houses out and have cleaned and retapped all holes. Had to drill out 4 of them with broken grill bolts. Painted and they are on the horses drying. Changed out the front bezels from chrome to my primed new bezel (both fenders and hood) and painted "close as I have been able to get" custom mix $20 a can yellow paint. Got these installed and bumper polished. Had my helper (son JT) work on and clean up the bumper and lenses, but one will need replaced at some point as it is cracked. Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to get light boxes back in and grill mounted. Headed up to get some machine screws that will fit. Thought I would snap a couple pics and would post before I head out.

It is finally starting to look like a Mach 1 in the front...

 

[rpmcarter]

Working on the front end today. Have both light houses out and have cleaned and retapped all holes. Had to drill out 4 of them with broken grill bolts. Painted and they are on the horses drying. Changed out the front bezels from chrome to my primed new bezel (both fenders and hood) and painted "close as I have been able to get" custom mix $20 a can yellow paint. Got these installed and bumper polished. Had my helper (son JT) work on and clean up the bumper and lenses, but one will need replaced at some point as it is cracked. Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to get light boxes back in and grill mounted. Headed up to get some machine screws that will fit. Thought I would snap a couple pics and would post before I head out.

It is finally starting to look like a Mach 1 in the front...

ahhh been there done that. I painted everything in sight.

I decided to take the convertible today to the car show. spent last week prep'n the car and did wash and throw a little wax on the 71 Mach too as I went along. I pull the 67 vert into the garage ....gas smell was a little strong, raise the hood FUEL LEAK from the carb. She was a no go... last night...Hmmm the Mach is look'n sweet....OH WAIT I haven't replaced the water pump and the tires are a bit 'worn'

 

[don29163]

Pulled the dash out of the parts car and some other parts I needed, cleaned and painted stuff as I went. All the bolts/clips/screws go through the tumbler for cleaning. Replaced the brake booster and cleaned, lubed and installed the pedal assembly.

 

[vamach1]

I washed both Mach1's since it was pretty nice out today.

 

[thundertc64]

Not much today except change the fuel filter for like the 12th time

 

[Don65Stang]

Not much today except change the fuel filter for like the 12th time

I saw Robert's car in person and complimented him on it. Nice looking stang Robert!

I rolled the windows down on mine to let the water evaporate from the cowl leak due to the very heavy rain we had. I need a good car cover until I make a spot for it in the garage...that or a temporary tarp. My neighbors would kill me for putting a tarp on it; too much of a eye sore.

 

[thundertc64]

Thanks Don ::thumb:: but she still has a long way to go. Now the weather is starting to warm up i can do a little more. Hope you will be able to get yours running around soon