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well If I could post the pick all of you could get a giggle. So I thought maybe I'd go ahead and take care of that 20 minute repair "replacing the fuel pump" on the 67 then I would work on the 71. It was beautiful outside. First.... my neighbors seem to think I am the popular guy.....EVERYBODY just wanted to talk and talk and talk. I'm not the type to go KIT on them so I patiently spend time with each one chatting about nothing...and the next and the next.

SO low and behold I back the 71 out to give myself some working room in the garage. Jack the car up.... get all the tools ready...unhook the fuel line and hose.... get one of the bolts out and ....... SON OF A ...... the other one twisted OFF!!!! Still looking at options to get to the bolt without making it worse. I don't recall if that fuel pump has ever been off the car to my knowledge....here we are 47 years later. I'm sure it has but not in 8 years that I've owned it.

 
Have a line on an entire stock AC system replace the stock system.

 
SON OF A ...... the other one twisted OFF!!!! Still looking at options to get to the bolt without making it worse. I don't recall if that fuel pump has ever been off the car to my knowledge....here we are 47 years later. I'm sure it has but not in 8 years that I've owned it.
Grind a slot in it for a Big F'ing Screwdriver (or a really strong screwdriver attachment connected to a high-torque, low-speed drill), but before trying removal, pickle it with Kroil.

-Kurt

 
SON OF A ...... the other one twisted OFF!!!! Still looking at options to get to the bolt without making it worse. I don't recall if that fuel pump has ever been off the car to my knowledge....here we are 47 years later. I'm sure it has but not in 8 years that I've owned it.
Grind a slot in it for a Big F'ing Screwdriver (or a really strong screwdriver attachment connected to a high-torque, low-speed drill), but before trying removal, pickle it with Kroil.

-Kurt
Soak it with PB Blaster (or similar), and if the slot trick Kurt mentioned doesn't work, get some left-hand drill bits, and try one of those - as the drill "teeth" start to cut into the shank, it might break loose rather than succumb to the drill bit itself. Worse case scenario, you're already started into drilling a hole for a bolt extractor anyway.

Good luck - hope that helps!

 
Soak it with PB Blaster (or similar), and if the slot trick Kurt mentioned doesn't work, get some left-hand drill bits, and try one of those - as the drill "teeth" start to cut into the shank, it might break loose rather than succumb to the drill bit itself. Worse case scenario, you're already started into drilling a hole for a bolt extractor anyway.

Good luck - hope that helps!
+1. Follow Eric's advice for a left-hand drill bit or a remover bit if the bolt sheared flush with the block.

My advice was strictly if the head sheared off, leaving a portion of the threaded bolt exposed.

-Kurt

 
Rerouted a fuel line, added a few clamps to keep it nice and neat, measured for some new shock tower bracing and ordered the pieces I will need to fabricate. Looked at a few wires that need to be rerouted, decided my back would not appreciate the strain and went for a tire reconditioning session where I removed some old rubber.

 
Tightened the bolts on the AODs oil pan. The car has been leaking transmission oil like crazy lately and I found out that all the bolts were loose.

Lets see if that helps.

 
Coordinating and collaborating for getting a changeover from stock ventilation to AC conversion on my mustang.

 
Thanks guys!!!! This Kroil sounds like a possible. I used PBlaster on it and I'm letting it sit with two applications. The stud is sticking out of the block. First I'm going to thread the top portion, run it down to get a good clean thread, run two nuts down and then back the bottom one out against the top to see if that works first. the drill method probably would be faster but the limited room from the top of the bolt to other parts and firewall.....or take the a/c off etc for more accessibility.

I've never heard of it before but a neighbor has some of the mystery "Kroil" you speak of Cudda. Sounds awesome.

 
Do you have a welder? If you have access to a MIG, you can thread a nut on and weld it to the stud. It will do (2) things to help.

1. Provide you with a solid, known position for a wrench

2. More importantly, the welding will push the heat down through the remnants of the bolt and help break it loose from the block.

 
Do you have a welder? If you have access to a MIG, you can thread a nut on and weld it to the stud. It will do (2) things to help.

1. Provide you with a solid, known position for a wrench

2. More importantly, the welding will push the heat down through the remnants of the bolt and help break it loose from the block.
Dude....you are either my hero or I hate you :D ....yes the eff'n mig is sitting right in front of the car. damn you!!:D never crossed my mind.rofl

 
I finished up some shock tower brace modifications. I had bought the MPG brace kit some time back and my engine configuration being a bit different didn't work with the cross bar. I decided to run a pair of bars to the radiator core. Measured, checked clearances, ordered 30.00 worth of parts from Speedway (which showed up tonight) and an hour later I am done.

If it looks a little lopsided, that is the camera angle.

engine bracing 001.JPG

engine bracing 002.JPG

 
Dude....you are either my hero or I hate you :D ....yes the eff'n mig is sitting right in front of the car. damn you!!:D never crossed my mind.rofl
Careful there, Carter. That's the fuel pump area, you know. Don't blow yourself up welding next to the main line coming off the left shock tower.

Even plugging it won't always keep the vapors at bay.

-Kurt

 
Dude....you are either my hero or I hate you :D ....yes the eff'n mig is sitting right in front of the car. damn you!!:D never crossed my mind.rofl
Careful there, Carter. That's the fuel pump area, you know. Don't blow yourself up welding next to the main line coming off the left shock tower.

Even plugging it won't always keep the vapors at bay.

-Kurt
yeah that' s a concern I already have with that process.... "ACCIDENTS HAPPEN" even under the best practices. I appreciate the extra warning.

 
Added a little mood lighting this afternoon. Installed Blue LEDs under the dash and wired to a switch on the Center Console.

IMG_20141029_142557.jpg

 
purchased inner door panels as advertised on this line, this morning and got msg tonight about not paying for them yet. Must be my credit card must not have gone through. This not the site to give other examples of customer service somewhere not doing their job, too. And taking the stang to a garage, scheduled and established back last spring and 3 months into the job, to find its only being worked on as a part time job. :)k<( even the payment to online vendor, a work in process however...finally.got it processed here.

 
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Be careful with that transaction. I've seen some identity theft scams start that way. They tell you that you must reenter your information or risk missing the deal. Some identify themselves as Paypal. Don't reply to these.

 
Be careful with that transaction. I've seen some identity theft scams start that way. They tell you that you must reenter your information or risk missing the deal. Some identify themselves as Paypal. Don't reply to these.
Looks like I will have to call in my credit card company to refuse payment if this is true. I have notified the vendor of this item and if I do not hear from them with the confirmation of this transaction down to the credit card number, in goes the call to my cc company to investigate this.

 
We've never been real happy with how the car has ran since first start. She seemed to run rough but could not fit a bad plug wire, open port, etc. we finally found and fixed the problem. There was a vacuum leak in the booster. Replaced the booster and she really sounds mean.

 
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