What did you do to your car today?

[Mister 4x4]

Frank passed inspection... although exuding the old car equivalent of "kicking and screaming." Got to the shop, explained the 'nuances,' which the inspector was cool with. He drove it, pulled it around to the inspection area and thought it didn't have LP lights. I pointed out the LP lights, back-up camera, and why I chose those lights, and he was cool with that. Then, the horn refused to beep. After fighting with the horn button (even took off the steering wheel to troubleshoot), I got nuthin' (worked fine when I left the house). Decided to call it off and leave, when the horn decided to work as he was backing it out of the stall. So... he passed it. Looks like I have yet another intermittent issue with the tilt column to work out... but it passed! :whistling:

Still got a few nit-noid things to do - I forgot to install the speedometer cable when I had it on the lift, and some other stuff underneath. The original steering column is about as loosy-goosy as it should be, so I'm thinking a new one from Flaming River might be in order, and I still need to get the power locks and window motors adjusted. Also have an Edelbrock E-Street fuel injection system to install as well, so it will pass gas better than the old school carb. Oh yeah, also need to get the V-belt and idler pulley for the A/C unit figured out so the new Classic Auto Air unit can keep me chilly and build a box for the MTX Terminator subs. You know - minor stuff. :chin:

 

[mach71351c]

Frank passed inspection... although exuding the old car equivalent of "kicking and screaming." Got to the shop, explained the 'nuances,' which the inspector was cool with. He drove it, pulled it around to the inspection area and thought it didn't have LP lights. I pointed out the LP lights, back-up camera, and why I chose those lights, and he was cool with that. Then, the horn refused to beep. After fighting with the horn button (even took off the steering wheel to troubleshoot), I got nuthin' (worked fine when I left the house). Decided to call it off and leave, when the horn decided to work as he was backing it out of the stall. So... he passed it. Looks like I have yet another intermittent issue with the tilt column to work out... but it passed! :whistling:

Still got a few nit-noid things to do - I forgot to install the speedometer cable when I had it on the lift, and some other stuff underneath. The original steering column is about as loosy-goosy as it should be, so I'm thinking a new one from Flaming River might be in order, and I still need to get the power locks and window motors adjusted. Also have an Edelbrock E-Street fuel injection system to install as well, so it will pass gas better than the old school carb. Oh yeah, also need to get the V-belt and idler pulley for the A/C unit figured out so the new Classic Auto Air unit can keep me chilly and build a box for the MTX Terminator subs. You know - minor stuff. :chin:

Glad to hear frank passed inspection. I'm looking forward to your E-street install.

 

[Austin Vert]

Good one Eric,

Close call there mate.:whistling:

Greg.

 

[luxstang]

I must have been inhaling too many fumes from the paint but after I painted my front bumper last weekend, I went bezerk and also painted my door sill plates.

I painted the crappy original ones that I had replaced with repro ones back when the car was restored.

Now I put the shiny repro plates in storage and instead primed and painted the original ones and I love the look.

Goes well with the yellow paint and black carpet.

While the plates were drying I did an oil change but there are no pictures documenting that. I guess you know what an oil change looks like.

Before



After

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I'm gonna have to copy your efforts there

 

[jbojo]

I like that look Mike, blends really well with your door sills.

 

[kcmash]

Still biding my time looking for $$ and a guy in the Reno area that can replace the floors since the passengers side has a rust hole in it. Also found out as is typical with our years its a mother to find the seat risers for it (figure if your going to replace the floor they would come with each side (NOPE) Not Integrated, so located the only two i could find from marlyandmustang.com and just arrived so have to get the box from the warehouse manager and peek.

I know this one is beyond my skills as i don't weld and its a Uni-body so have to brace the car if you chop the floors out and dont want to have alignment issues with doors etc if its done wrong.

You don't need any special bracing for floors on these cars. Especially a small patch.

 

[OMS]

Still biding my time looking for $$ and a guy in the Reno area that can replace the floors since the passengers side has a rust hole in it. Also found out as is typical with our years its a mother to find the seat risers for it (figure if your going to replace the floor they would come with each side (NOPE) Not Integrated, so located the only two i could find from marlyandmustang.com and just arrived so have to get the box from the warehouse manager and peek.

I know this one is beyond my skills as i don't weld and its a Uni-body so have to brace the car if you chop the floors out and dont want to have alignment issues with doors etc if its done wrong.

The ones being sold now are for a coupe - they are too tall for a fastback

New fastback platforms will be available separately soon - right now the only way you get fastback platforms is with the full floor

 

[MT91106]

Still biding my time looking for $$ and a guy in the Reno area that can replace the floors since the passengers side has a rust hole in it. Also found out as is typical with our years its a mother to find the seat risers for it (figure if your going to replace the floor they would come with each side (NOPE) Not Integrated, so located the only two i could find from marlyandmustang.com and just arrived so have to get the box from the warehouse manager and peek.

I know this one is beyond my skills as i don't weld and its a Uni-body so have to brace the car if you chop the floors out and dont want to have alignment issues with doors etc if its done wrong.

You don't need any special bracing for floors on these cars. Especially a small patch.

yeah but thinking about replacing the floors completely and for that you do otherwise your asking for issues with door fit etc still deciding to do patches or all of it. Figure i would only have to do it one time if i did it all at the same time. There are some small pin holes in the passenger side rear floor hence why i felt it might be the thing to do. Or just do a drivers and passengers side section and leave the tunnel. I dont know still scratching my head as to what to do. :chin:

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

you can also just repair the existing floors. Full floorpan replacement looks good with all the work done well, but you can often just buy a replacement and cut a patch large enough to replace the weak area and cut it it to only replace the affected area. Less intrusive and if you can get the bad area cut out to solid metal, the repair is just as good if you take the time to butt the pieces and fully weld them in, then use a flap wheel to grind the welds and use a bit of seam sealer. even 3-4 patched sections is less work that full replacement.

 

[MT91106]

you can also just repair the existing floors. Full floorpan replacement looks good with all the work done well, but you can often just buy a replacement and cut a patch large enough to replace the weak area and cut it it to only replace the affected area. Less intrusive and if you can get the bad area cut out to solid metal, the repair is just as good if you take the time to butt the pieces and fully weld them in, then use a flap wheel to grind the welds and use a bit of seam sealer. even 3-4 patched sections is less work that full replacement.

I agree with you on that Jeff as you can tell i am not into half assing anything but your right if you measure twice and cut once and get the patch right and take your time no one will notice so will probably go that route and the the car back together.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Gathering all the cleaned up detailed parts to put my 73 vert back together and get it going before April. Would like to drive to Charlotte for Hornets Nest show at the race track and then may St. Augustine. Only issue I have with the Fla. show is you have to be member of MCA that I do not support. It is there ball so you play by their rules I guess. I should lay all the parts out on the floor before installing, there are a pile of them. I am still on the fence on should I buy another wire harness that is said to be perfect or get mine rebuilt have to decide by Monday.

David

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I agree with you on that Jeff as you can tell i am not into half assing anything but your right if you measure twice and cut once and get the patch right and take your time no one will notice so will probably go that route and the the car back together.

It all depends upon the extent of the rust and your long term goals for the car. As long as you aren't coating them with a few layers of fiberglassed cardboard and window screen(yes I've seen it, no I haven't done it), no one should determine what's "right" except you and a future buyer.

 

[droptop73]

I must have been inhaling too many fumes from the paint but after I painted my front bumper last weekend, I went bezerk and also painted my door sill plates.

I painted the crappy original ones that I had replaced with repro ones back when the car was restored.

Now I put the shiny repro plates in storage and instead primed and painted the original ones and I love the look.

Goes well with the yellow paint and black carpet.

While the plates were drying I did an oil change but there are no pictures documenting that. I guess you know what an oil change looks like.

I like that look, it has a modern flair!

I ordered a set of gauges to install and a Trac-Lok with 3.50 gears for mine this week.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Pulled the exhaust and rerouted the ebrake cables with some new brackets I fabricated to get the cable pull so I have plenty of driveshaft clearance, rebled the rear brakes and got her back on the road finally. I also relocated the staggered shock to the front of the axle since I have Caltracs and don't need the staggered set up. It opens up some room to eventually get some 3" tailpipes out the back . . . I hope

 

[will e]

Replaced the master cyl. Installed speed bleeders. It's the first time I have ever tried speed bleeders and I love them.

 

[73pony]

Mounted the roller bearing assembly and new clutch pedal for T5 conversion. Also mounted my new correct seat track to the drivers seat and cleaned up the threads in one of the mounting holes. Cleaned up and welded in 4 small patches where PO cut holes in the floor to mount the old incorrect seat tracks. We will see if my motivation keeps up and maybe get the drive shaft dropped out the the H-pipe removed so the old tranny can come out.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Got to the shop, electric fan sounded funny-looked at it-blade was gone! Found a fan laying around and swapped the parts into my shroud. Prettied up the shroud hold down bracket and skeletonized it a bit. Changed speedometer gear, installed a new module with a rev limiter, painted my new caliper and brake brackets and took a few pictures to show the new tires and how they fit in back.

 

[droptop73]

That looks pretty mean!!

 

[EdM]

I went for a nice Hill Country drive and the car is running better than ever.