What did you do to your car today?

[Jeff73Mach1]

I got a new driveshaft built yesterday. Turns out the owner was my kids karate coach about 8 years ago and we remembered one another. 3.5 inch shaft with 1350 ujoints on both ends. The shop is Clinards Drive shaft for you local folks. 3rd generation and been in business over 50 years. He's built shafts for NHRA record holders and Nascar teams. After it was done (same day) He took me in back and showed me the shop and the way they true driveshafts with a lathe and a heat and quench process and a dial indicator. Lyn never uses weights and guarantees his shaft will not have vibration problems and if it does, he'll fix it no questions asked. Price with tax was $351.73

I pulled the driveshaft loop remains tonight and installed the new shaft and pumped the rear end full of lube.

 

[LCB1]

Installed my new Trac-Loc 9 inch, 3.70.

 

[Mister 4x4]

OK - so that went well. I pulled the back wheels off of Frank and took them to Discount Tire with the new rims. The "old" rims were "off the shelf" units from Summit Racing: 15x10 Cragar S/S Direct Drill with 4 1/4" of backspacing. The 295/50R15 Cooper Cobras stuck out of the wheel houses just a little bit too far (looked cool as Hell, though).

Here's a "straight-down" shot of the passenger side:



And the view from the end of the bumper (sorry for the messy garage - I still have my old parts scattered everywhere... and still workin' on finding a new home for them):



Summit Racing offers a 'custom' ordering service for many of the wheel vendors they sell. I was able to order the same Direct Drill S/Ss with 5 1/2" custom backspacing.

The passenger side "straight-down" shot of the new set-up:



... And the view from the end of the bumper (same comments about the messy garage ):



I still need to install my 1" rear shackles, and take it for a spin, which I should be able to do next weekend after I register it this week and get the plates on.

 

[Mustang Dynasty]

Finally upgraded the stock clutch assembly for a Ram Performance Clutch 'Powergrip HD' Kit. ie, 11" disc, 1 1/8" X 10-spline. A better match for those Clevelands of 300-550hp.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Looks better Eric, nice fit

 

[jbojo]

I like that new look Eric.

 

[mach71351c]

Nice job Eric.

 

[Austin Vert]

OK - so that went well. I pulled the back wheels off of Frank and took them to Discount Tire with the new rims. The "old" rims were "off the shelf" units from Summit Racing: 15x10 Cragar S/S Direct Drill with 4 1/4" of backspacing. The 295/50R15 Cooper Cobras stuck out of the wheel houses just a little bit too far (looked cool as Hell, though).

Here's a "striaght-down" shot of the passenger side:

And the view from the end of the bumper (sorry for the messy garage - I still have my old parts scattered everywhere... and still workin' on finding a new home for them):

Summit Racing offers a 'custom' ordering service for many of the wheel vendors they sell. I was able to order the same Direct Drill S/Ss with 5 1/2" custom backspacing.

The passenger side "straight-down" shot of the new set-up:

... And the view from the end of the bumper (same comments about the messy garage ):

I still need to install my 1" rear shackles, and take it for a spin, which I should be able to do next weekend after I register it this week and get the plates on.

Way to go Eric,

How do the strand back photos look Sir!

Hope you're happy with this new setup.

Greg.

 

[71XR7VERT]

Pulled my oil gauge in my other car and replaced it with an electrical version from autometer.

Dang tubing blew apart and sprayed all over the engine, and rolled smoke inside the car.

Wife and neighbors not around so walked back to the house, only a mile or so, brought a gallon of oil and a funnel.

Pinched off that stupid line with some vise grips and drove it home hahaha.

 

[mach71351c]

Pulled my oil gauge in my other car and replaced it with an electrical version from autometer.

Dang tubing blew apart and sprayed all over the engine, and rolled smoke inside the car.

Wife and neighbors not around so walked back to the house, only a mile or so, brought a gallon of oil and a funnel.

Pinched off that stupid line with some vise grips and drove it home hahaha.

Been there done that!

 

[Mister 4x4]

Way to go Eric,

How do the strand back photos look Sir!

Hope you're happy with this new setup.

Greg.

I didn't actually get any of those pics yet. I did this all with the car still in the garage with limited space for my big arse to move around. I was pretty wiped out after getting the wheels back on, doing it at awkward angles and contortions - but they came off really easy. I finally remembered how to use a couple of 2x4s as a lever after fighting with the passenger side for about 20 minutes. Driver side went right on... duh... :shootself:

I'll get some better pics when I pull it out next weekend (should have license plates to install and maybe even have a cool place to take the pic, rather than the driveway.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I just finished rebuilding a console for someone in Louisiana. He is going to add the new lid so I did not change it but did the following.

I will not restore a previously painted console or one that has been dowsed with Armor all. They will have a milky look and you can never get the paint to lay down.

Scrubbed with Dawn and hot water.

Blasted the ash tray, ash tray lid and ash tray guide.

Washed everything with prep solve.

Taped off the chrome on the surround for the shifter and clock and painted with SEM semi gloss from NPD.

Straightened the console base where it was warped with heat gun.

Repaired a couple splits in the base and broken out screw holes. Reinforced with fiberglass and epoxy.

Painted the console base.

Painted the small parts.

Checked out the clock and lights are working.

Assembled the console and packed for shipment.

Shipped one yesterday and this one tomorrow. Now back to working on my stuff got some more mad money, lol.

David

 

[computercarguy]

Even though it was barely over 30 degrees F. here this weekend, I removed the exhaust and then the transmission (T5). Put a washer under the pivot bolt to get the throwout bearing closer to the pressure plate. Also changed the bushing and seal in the tailshaft housing. Next day I removed and disassembled the center console getting it ready to paint. Even though I had cleaned it, it just sticks out like a sore thumb with all the new or reconditioned interior.

Plan is to get the console back in and then the transmission. Following that I will be removing the fuel tank to install a new front support that I didn't know existed (NPD) until I found it mentioned on this site. Yay 7173mustangs.com! :thankyouyellow:

Going to try v-band clamps where the mufflers and tail pipes come together.

 

[73pony]

I just finished rebuilding a console for someone in Louisiana. He is going to add the new lid so I did not change it but did the following.

I will not restore a previously painted console or one that has been dowsed with Armor all. They will have a milky look and you can never get the paint to lay down.

Scrubbed with Dawn and hot water.

Blasted the ash tray, ash tray lid and ash tray guide.

Washed everything with prep solve.

Taped off the chrome on the surround for the shifter and clock and painted with SEM semi gloss from NPD.

Straightened the console base where it was warped with heat gun.

Repaired a couple splits in the base and broken out screw holes. Reinforced with fiberglass and epoxy.

Painted the console base.

Painted the small parts.

Checked out the clock and lights are working.

Assembled the console and packed for shipment.

Shipped one yesterday and this one tomorrow. Now back to working on my stuff got some more mad money, lol.

David

Wow. Nice work David. Looks good. What is the part number on the black SEM you used? I want to make sure I get the right one.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I just finished rebuilding a console for someone in Louisiana. He is going to add the new lid so I did not change it but did the following.

I will not restore a previously painted console or one that has been dowsed with Armor all. They will have a milky look and you can never get the paint to lay down.

Scrubbed with Dawn and hot water.

Blasted the ash tray, ash tray lid and ash tray guide.

Washed everything with prep solve.

Taped off the chrome on the surround for the shifter and clock and painted with SEM semi gloss from NPD.

Straightened the console base where it was warped with heat gun.

Repaired a couple splits in the base and broken out screw holes. Reinforced with fiberglass and epoxy.

Painted the console base.

Painted the small parts.

Checked out the clock and lights are working.

Assembled the console and packed for shipment.

Shipped one yesterday and this one tomorrow. Now back to working on my stuff got some more mad money, lol.

David

Wow. Nice work David. Looks good. What is the part number on the black SEM you used? I want to make sure I get the right one.

The number on the can is VP-946 and below that 946 SEM, Interior Paint Spray 65-73 Mustang. I got from National Parts Depot they are just 100 miles from me. I ordered two cans but did not use but one. You want to put as little as possible so you don't fill in the texture. I have four more to do in black and a couple in ginger.

Don't even try to refinish the glove box cover just order a new one. He was going to take care of adding the new one to this console.

Heating the console up and getting the base back straight is critical for it to fit proper. Also reinforcing the mounting holes is a must. These things are getting old and brittle. Scuff the inside with some coarse paper so the epoxy and fiberglass have something to stick to. You can fill in gaps with it also. I glue any splits with ABS pipe glue from the hardware. Glue you use on the black pipe. Don't get it on the grain it does melt the plastic. Do Not try to wash the console with lacquer thinner it also melts it.

Getting a fresh finish on the console makes a big difference for sure.

David

 

[73pony]

Thanks!

 

[Qcode351mach]

I just finished rebuilding a console for someone in Louisiana. He is going to add the new lid so I did not change it but did the following.

I will not restore a previously painted console or one that has been dowsed with Armor all. They will have a milky look and you can never get the paint to lay down.

Scrubbed with Dawn and hot water.

Blasted the ash tray, ash tray lid and ash tray guide.

Washed everything with prep solve.

Taped off the chrome on the surround for the shifter and clock and painted with SEM semi gloss from NPD.

Straightened the console base where it was warped with heat gun.

Repaired a couple splits in the base and broken out screw holes. Reinforced with fiberglass and epoxy.

Painted the console base.

Painted the small parts.

Checked out the clock and lights are working.

Assembled the console and packed for shipment.

Shipped one yesterday and this one tomorrow. Now back to working on my stuff got some more mad money, lol.

David

Wow. Nice work David. Looks good. What is the part number on the black SEM you used? I want to make sure I get the right one.

The number on the can is VP-946 and below that 946 SEM, Interior Paint Spray 65-73 Mustang. I got from National Parts Depot they are just 100 miles from me. I ordered two cans but did not use but one. You want to put as little as possible so you don't fill in the texture. I have four more to do in black and a couple in ginger.

Don't even try to refinish the glove box cover just order a new one. He was going to take care of adding the new one to this console.

Heating the console up and getting the base back straight is critical for it to fit proper. Also reinforcing the mounting holes is a must. These things are getting old and brittle. Scuff the inside with some coarse paper so the epoxy and fiberglass have something to stick to. You can fill in gaps with it also. I glue any splits with ABS pipe glue from the hardware. Glue you use on the black pipe. Don't get it on the grain it does melt the plastic. Do Not try to wash the console with lacquer thinner it also melts it.

Getting a fresh finish on the console makes a big difference for sure.

David

A few things to add when doing interior repair--As said dawn is the first step--then wash with comet and soft scrub sponge--then denatured alcohol--then spi waterborne wax and grease remover--dawn again--then S.E.M. soap with a grey scuff pad then wax and grease before final finishing the above process will clean remove prep any type of interior dressing. I don't use epoxy any more for making repairs (I've tried plenty of different epoxy's) over time the repair will lift..A better quality repair is what I detail in my video. I feel a better match to the oem black is the SEM tuxedo black I just did the entire interior of my green 72 went from puke green to black came out flawless I also use the sem xxx adhesion promoter. A few pictures of the finished parts installed in the car

 

[luxstang]

I took mine to an ATSG certified transmission shop to get that damned AOD refurbished once and for all.

That AOD was the stupidest mod I ever did to that car, turning a perfectly good and reliable car that ran strongly into a below average performing grocery getter that you could not trust to take you from A to B without giving you problems.

I sure hope it gets better. I wish I still had my FMX in there!

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Pulled my instrument cluster, removed the printed circuit and the tach. Cut the backing plate for the tach to allow it to mount the new tach in place. cut the tach portion of the lens away. Put new LED bulbs in and tested with a 12V power supply, found a few sockets that needed the contacts bent and cleaned and got all of them working.

Biggest pain in the butt was the new printed circuit I bought (Okay I bought it barely used) had some damage and I had to repair one of the traces. My soldering gun tip failed and I made one out of a piece of hanger wire, but it was marginal at best. I finally got it repaired.

The replacement printed circuits are really poor quality-barely covered on the backside with some white crappy paperlike substance, not the encapulated plastic covering of the originals.

With my soldering iron down and needing a few spools of wire I stopped for the night. Hope to get back to it Thursday and get it all wrapped up for the weekend.

 

[Qcode351mach]

Pulled my instrument cluster, removed the printed circuit and the tach. Cut the backing plate for the tach to allow it to mount the new tach in place. cut the tach portion of the lens away. Put new LED bulbs in and tested with a 12V power supply, found a few sockets that needed the contacts bent and cleaned and got all of them working.

Biggest pain in the butt was the new printed circuit I bought (Okay I bought it barely used) had some damage and I had to repair one of the traces. My soldering gun tip failed and I made one out of a piece of hanger wire, but it was marginal at best. I finally got it repaired.

The replacement printed circuits are really poor quality-barely covered on the backside with some white crappy paperlike substance, not the encapulated plastic covering of the originals.

With my soldering iron down and needing a few spools of wire I stopped for the night. Hope to get back to it Thursday and get it all wrapped up for the weekend.

You know can make traces out of the silver foil aluminum tape or copper tape http://www.amazon.com/Copper-Conductive-Adhesive-Width-Length/dp/B009KB86BU/ref=sr_1_3/190-4965896-9992150?ie=UTF8&qid=1460585124&sr=8-3&keywords=conductive+tape+copper