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I shortened up the strut rods 1/8". 

Now I am almost 1/2 degree negative camber, and about 4 degrees positive caster at a total guesstimate of ride height.  Should be close enough for now.





 
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I shortened up the strut rods 1/8". 

Now I am almost 1/2 degree negative camber, and about 4 degrees positive caster at a total guesstimate of ride height.  Should be close enough for
What's your setup? Arms, rods?

Do you have any interference between the stabilizer bar and strut rod?

1971 M-code Mach 1

 
I shortened up the strut rods 1/8". 

Now I am almost 1/2 degree negative camber, and about 4 degrees positive caster at a total guesstimate of ride height.  Should be close enough for
What's your setup? Arms, rods?

Do you have any interference between the stabilizer bar and strut rod?

1971 M-code Mach 1

2nd Gen Maier Racing coil over upper control arms (these have a left and right, and are offset for a bit of caster gain). Maier Racing and Mike Maier both make a newer version.

Hotchkis 1118L lower control arms.

Total control TCP STRD-07-SVH strut rods.

1" Grab-A-Trak sway bar.

No clearance issues yet, but I can see that the sway bar links are pretty misaligned since I have my lower control arms out so far for camber and so far forward for caster.  I might have to go with some sort of heim based sway bar end links.  I don't know if the poly ones will work well the way it is.





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Spray speckle the trunk. Didnt know that the background was going to show that much. On the fenders you can tell where i sprayed the sound deadener. The speckle paint also turned yellow in some places. I am not in a exact matching restoration but this may be below my standards. I can live with it but i think it diminishes all the work i had put in the trunk. If i decide to fix it, should I spray the fenders with black paint and then reapply speckle paint over the black paint?

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1971 M-code Mach 1

 
Spray speckle the trunk. Didnt know that the background was going to show that much. On the fenders you can tell where i sprayed the sound deadener. The speckle paint also turned yellow in some places. I am not in a exact matching restoration but this may be below my standards. I can live with it but i think it diminishes all the work i had put in the trunk. If i decide to fix it, should I spray the fenders with black paint and then reapply speckle paint over the black paint?

1971 M-code Mach 1
Did you spray the Upol, then the trunk spatter paint?? Could be the Upol causing this to happen?  When I contacted the distributor about top coating the Upol multi liner he told me you could but recommended priming it first.

 
Spray speckle the trunk. Didnt know that the background was going to show that much. On the fenders you can tell where i sprayed the sound deadener. The speckle paint also turned yellow in some places. I am not in a exact matching restoration but this may be below my standards. I can live with it but i think it diminishes all the work i had put in the trunk. If i decide to fix it, should I spray the fenders with black paint and then reapply speckle paint over the black paint?

1971 M-code Mach 1
Did you spray the Upol, then the trunk spatter paint?? Could be the Upol causing this to happen?  When I contacted the distributor about top coating the Upol multi liner he told me you could but recommended priming it first.
There are two issues going on. The fact that one section of the fender is darker than the other is my fault. I didn't know that the background paint was going to be so prominent after spraying the spatter paint. One part of the fender was covered with UPOL multi-liner, another part with the Boom Mat sound deadener spray and the rest had the old abraded gray paint.

I don't think the UPOL is the problem here because I have UPOL all over the horizontal surface and that's not showing any yellowing except at the corners by the inner fender. I sprayed the inner fenders with Boom Mat but not the horizontal. The strange thing is that I see yellowing in some of the areas where the Boom Mat was sprayed so I wonder if there is some compatibility issue here.

The Boom Mat instructions say that it can be top coated after 6 hours. In this case I sprayed the spatter paint about 24 hours after the Boom Mat.

 
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I think you needed to prime it first to help separate the top coat from interacting with the boom mat. If your really unhappy with it. You could scuff it all and shoot it with primer then paint with whatever color you want as a background to the speckle paint or just pick a primer that is the background color you want. Black or gray maybe??

 
Well since I strained my back last weekend removing a bit of floor pan thought I should take it easy and organize the shed a bit as I can't swing a cat in there (sorry cat lovers)

But I remembered I had purchased Mustang Steve's door hinge repair kit a while ago so went about rebuilding the door hinges

For anyone considering these they are an excellent alternative to just replacing bushes, well worth the investment

Also gave my spray guns a good clean and the built up gunk was surprising, used a product called CAM Universal Spray Gun Cleaner, good stuff which eats paint but very volatile so need to be careful and wear good nitrile gloves

 
Note. That is the original bright trim in the original finish for .y car. I think it is in remarkable shape!!

 
Nice!!   ::thumb:: 

I had Discount Tire remove the roofing nail from the left rear.  No others found, and road hazard covered it - I also beat the crowd, so in and out = 30 minutes.

 
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Sat down with the NPD catalog all morning and ordered up a ton of small things, mainly fasteners.


 


Going to spend the afternoon working on the front suspension some more.


 


Hubs-rotors-calipers...


 
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Replaced the front passenger side wheel bearings. I've had a noise going "rudgerudgerudge.." for a while and i couldn't tell where it came from and it ruined the fun driving for me. I can get very frustrated when I wait for a noise to pop up while driving.

I was dedicated to find it, I even considered pulling the third member (last resort) if it didn't go away. Ok, check wheel bearings first.

Yesterday for the first time the noise wasn't just "there" but it seemed to come from the passenger side front. So today I tore into it and wouldn't you know it, the noise is gone! :)

Yay!

One noise down, six to go. :)

Btw, I'm waiting for my pancake read window motors to be delivered after the overhaul by West Coast Classic Cougars. They are in transit, I'm expecting them to arrive by the end of the week. Then I can reinstall the rear seat and the interior panels. Right now I'm driving with only half an interior. Front looks ok but behind the front seats it's only bare metal and sound deadening mats.

Doesn't bother me that much as I can't see it when I look through the windshield. :)

 
Finally completed the trunk work. I ended removing part of the paint and priming the substrate. The color distribution looks better now but I am still getting some yellowing over the BoomMat. I am leaving it like that. I am not looking for perfection. What i know for sure is that it has plenty of protection layers. The pictures are after the satin clear coat.

Also the gas tank is up and hooked. Now I can finally start working on the EFI, which is where I was 3 months ago before I discovered the mess in the trunk.

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1971 M-code Mach 1

 
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