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alright so idle arm replaced, steering is back again, speedo gear replaced for a 21 tooth and the flowmaster 50 series are out and dynomax turbo mufflers are in. Sound is much more bassy and the unbearable high pitches are gone and the db is way down for where it was.

 
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alright so idle arm replaced, steering is back again, speedo gear replaced for a 21 tooth and the flowmaster 50 series are out and dynomax turbo mufflers are in. Sound is much more bassy and the unbearable high pitches are gone and the db is way down for where it was.
libram, it would be nice if you could post another video of how your car sounds now, for comparison. 

Really like how the 50s sound.

 
What I have stated is not an opinion but stressed by all cam manufacturers. Racing cam profiles and lifters will never last like a stock set up. Many want you to do very specific break in periods and may even ask you to break in with less spring pressure than when you are actually racing.

Due to the heavy spring pressure and the quicker and higher lifts the pressure on the cam and lifter is many times more than with a stock cam. When I worked in race engine shop the boss never let a built engine idle less than 900 to help save the cam. Even at that when we would tear them down that had been driven on street never saw one that was not junk after just a few miles. How many circle track cars do you hear loping at low rpm or professional drag cars? They are torn down quite often and everything changed. If you have a flat tappet cam the lifters do not rotate at lower rpm therefore causing more wear. Also the lubrication at a low idle is just not there. That is why only one or two lobes might wear more than others not the same amount of lube.

Racing parts are made to be ran not sit and idle. Talk to the cam manufacturer and see what they suggest for an idle speed and do some research. I think you will find that high lift cams with heavy valve springs will not hold up in the long run.

Here is some reading on cams there are dozens of sites and none will say to let a cammed up engine idle low. https://www.camcraftcams.com/some-thoughts-on-cam-and-lifter-wear/

When you put a new engine together get a long travel dial indicator and take actual readings of the valve travel perpendicular to the valve. Check over time to see how the cam and lifters are holding up.

That is one of the benefits of the new engines today like the Coyote with their tiny little valves of less than 1" in diameter and very small springs. They do have 4 valves to make up for size.

Yes if you only drive to a few shows you will probably never have an issue but built engines just do not have a long life.
Guess with 11,000 on mine now I should plan a rebuild immediately then.................

 
What I have stated is not an opinion but stressed by all cam manufacturers. Racing cam profiles and lifters will never last like a stock set up. Many want you to do very specific break in periods and may even ask you to break in with less spring pressure than when you are actually racing.

Due to the heavy spring pressure and the quicker and higher lifts the pressure on the cam and lifter is many times more than with a stock cam. When I worked in race engine shop the boss never let a built engine idle less than 900 to help save the cam. Even at that when we would tear them down that had been driven on street never saw one that was not junk after just a few miles. How many circle track cars do you hear loping at low rpm or professional drag cars? They are torn down quite often and everything changed. If you have a flat tappet cam the lifters do not rotate at lower rpm therefore causing more wear. Also the lubrication at a low idle is just not there. That is why only one or two lobes might wear more than others not the same amount of lube.

Racing parts are made to be ran not sit and idle. Talk to the cam manufacturer and see what they suggest for an idle speed and do some research. I think you will find that high lift cams with heavy valve springs will not hold up in the long run.

Here is some reading on cams there are dozens of sites and none will say to let a cammed up engine idle low. https://www.camcraftcams.com/some-thoughts-on-cam-and-lifter-wear/

When you put a new engine together get a long travel dial indicator and take actual readings of the valve travel perpendicular to the valve. Check over time to see how the cam and lifters are holding up.

That is one of the benefits of the new engines today like the Coyote with their tiny little valves of less than 1" in diameter and very small springs. They do have 4 valves to make up for size.

Yes if you only drive to a few shows you will probably never have an issue but built engines just do not have a long life.
Guess with 11,000 on mine now I should plan a rebuild immediately then.................
I myself have never seen an engine with what I would consider a radical cam and heavy valve springs, double or triple, and flat tappets go more than 2,000 miles on race track without a refresh. That being new cam, lifters, springs, push rods, bearings and rings. Everything else is inspected and crank polished most times. All the used stuff was sold to the guys just trying to get into racing.

I am by no means an expert but did work in a race shop for couple years so saw lots of engines go through. The boss was the man with the knowledge I was there to learn.

Drag racing is passes not that many miles. Some of the Chevy guys at Greer 1/8 mile in SS that wind the crazy rpm in 12 to 13,000 can only go a couple weeks without rebuild. 

Roller cams definitely have an advantage of less friction and generates a better profile without all the wear forces. That is why Ford used rollers the 302 starting in the 80's. I have a friend that drove his Ford PU 165,000 miles without an oil change. He would change filter occasionally and just add. I would never do that but he did and it worked. How well it works to be determined, lol.

I have taken engines apart with hydraulic lifters that the cam and lifters was eaten up but engine ran smooth just no power.

 
alright so idle arm replaced, steering is back again, speedo gear replaced for a 21 tooth and the flowmaster 50 series are out and dynomax turbo mufflers are in. Sound is much more bassy and the unbearable high pitches are gone and the db is way down for where it was.
libram, it would be nice if you could post another video of how your car sounds now, for comparison. 

Really like how the 50s sound.
I plan to, but its been rainy and crappy, need to take pics but I'd rather do it when its nice, I'll post a video too.

 
Put my new quick fuel carb on and tuned it. Raining so I could not take it out and test so I am sure there will be some additional adjustments. Cam is pretty crazy so my idle is around 1050 rpm and is a full roller. Still sounds mean even at that.



Will post a video tomorrow.

 
So, a couple of things in the past few weekends.  I've had tons of stuff going on, but managed to make it to a few car shows.

2 weekends ago, the Elks Lodge had a car show supporting the local VFW and other veteran charities.  Went there, won a 'Top 40' trophy (no pics, unfortunately - my camera battery died, and I was too stupid to take a pic with the cell phone).

Last weekend, there was a Toys 4 Tots Car Show at Twin Peaks restaurant, where the Mustang pulled another 'Top 40' award, this time a plaque.  I'd forgotten to charge the camera battery again, but took a quick cell phone pic, and a pal from the Concho Valley Car Council managed to get pics of all the entries... so, I swiped a few from him.

Frank2.jpg

Top40_Award.jpg

The editor of one of the local online news feeds (Joe Hyde, San Angelo LIVE!) was walking around taking pics, and I wound up sticking around for a few minutes talking with him after everybody had taken off.  He's a really cool guy and we were just BSing, but little did I know he was putting together a bit of a story.

Next thing I know, one of my FB friends linked me to the story.  Check it out: https://sanangelolive.com/news/entertainment/2018-11-19/classic-cars-converge-twin-peaks-benefitting-toys-tots?utm_source=San+Angelo+LIVE%21+Daily&utm_campaign=f6ba74b479-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2018_11_19_05_56&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_e509ef1720-f6ba74b479-319970041&fbclid=IwAR0gqR6CT9eEOtOq_D1CqA8rN26bUivxS6t_FOdryEMEJdX3_dBspAZAcuQ

Here are a few of the pics Joe took, as well:

overview-of-event.jpg


69-71-mustang.jpg


71-mustang-01.jpg


I'm still kicking myself for not insisting on placing the TuTone template on the hood myself, but oh well - I'll get it right next time it needs a paint job. ;)

 
Looks like you and stanglover have the same painter! Lol just kidding it’s still looking good Eric!

I had the wrong pattern too, was back to far from front edge, but I will insist that I see where they put the pattern b4 paint.

 
Yup - pathetic, I know.  After all my goings on about how it should look, then I mess it all up by trusting the painter to figure out the simple instructions on the template.

smh

:whistling:

 
i coundn't use the plastic scoop screens ..so I may modify them at a later  date and fit them in
I've always thought it would be cool to clean out the 'holes' between the honeycomb pattern on the plastic block-off plates and install them along with the Ram Air air scoops.  I'm pretty sure they won't fit without serious modification, though.  :shootself:

 
Looks like you and stanglover have the same painter! Lol just kidding it’s still looking good Eric!

I had the wrong pattern too, was back to far from front edge, but I will insist that I see where they put the pattern b4 paint.
 Yeah, I/we see this all the time and it's too bad. From the wrong shape to the wrong sheen, we see it all.

 As I commented before, the mistake on mine wasn't just the painter, it was largely mine because although I told him 2" from the front, I forgot the 1" trim was not on the car, so I decided to suck it  up and just live with it. Most don't know anyway.

Geoff.

 


I sorted the problems with the horn after fitting this steering wheel... one of of my horns had a short   ::shrug::  that kept blowing fuses

 
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Master Cylinder + power booster and stainless brake tubes from CJ Pony ...all new

Not today exactly... done over a few days

Now he stops ...oh yes!...fluid leak gone.  ::thumb::



 
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Master Cylinder + power booster and stainless brake tubes from CJ Pony ...all new

Not today exactly... done over a few days

Now he stops ...oh yes!...fluid leak gone.  ::thumb::

If the master is a Scott Drake I hope you have better luck than me. Mine leaked just after 2 years of light use. When i disassembled it i noticed that the bore was very rough which i assume contributed to a quicker leakage. Now i am installing a Wilwood. More expensive, but high quality.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 
Hi guys 

Had a beer ::beer:: , fitted 3 point seat belts, had another beer ::beer:: , fitted CB...had another beer ::beer:: then tuned the CB antenna SWR to perfection and got a CB'r 9 miles away on a rig check, had another beer ::beer::  ...then polished the wheels,... cos I wasn't fit for doing much else  - then had another ...you guess ::beer::



 
Hi guys 

Had a beer ::beer:: , fitted 3 point seat belts, had another beer ::beer:: , fitted CB...had another beer ::beer:: then tuned the CB antenna SWR to perfection and got a CB'r 9 miles away on a rig check, had another beer ::beer::  ...then polished the wheels,... cos I wasn't fit for doing much else  - then had another ...you guess ::beer::


Sounds like you had a great day!  

Very productive and as the day went on I'm sure you were having a great time! 

That's what it's all about! F*ck negativity!   ::beer::  Cheers!

 
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