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Paid another visit to the machine shop to drop off more parts. Shortblock is mostly complete, heads are going on next week and pushrods will be on order. 

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Looking good! What are the build details? Chuck
Basically a hot stock-ish build. TRW L2379F zero decked, stock crank, stock rods w/ARP2000 hardware. McLeod steel flywheel, Romac damper. Heads are 71 D1AE-GA w/Ferrea 5000 valves, studs and guides, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum rockers, Cam Research solid flat tappet cam 230/235 .560/.560 lift. Will start with a Torker 351 intake and see where it takes me. Compression looks to be 10.5:1 using 66cc chambers, but heads still need to be CCed for real numbers. Should be on the dyno in a couple weeks at most. 

 
Basically a hot stock-ish build. TRW L2379F zero decked, stock crank, stock rods w/ARP2000 hardware. McLeod steel flywheel, Romac damper. Heads are 71 D1AE-GA w/Ferrea 5000 valves, studs and guides, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum rockers, Cam Research solid flat tappet cam 230/235 .560/.560 lift. Will start with a Torker 351 intake and see where it takes me. Compression looks to be 10.5:1 using 66cc chambers, but heads still need to be CCed for real numbers. Should be on the dyno in a couple weeks at most. 
Damn that looks very clean, I just finished the crank and rod bearings and piston rings on mine after a few weeks of soaking the pistons to remove carbon. I need to get my head gasket surfaces clean like that. Can't wait to see your dyno as I am still waiting on my damn cam kit myself

 
Basically a hot stock-ish build. TRW L2379F zero decked, stock crank, stock rods w/ARP2000 hardware. McLeod steel flywheel, Romac damper. Heads are 71 D1AE-GA w/Ferrea 5000 valves, studs and guides, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum rockers, Cam Research solid flat tappet cam 230/235 .560/.560 lift. Will start with a Torker 351 intake and see where it takes me. Compression looks to be 10.5:1 using 66cc chambers, but heads still need to be CCed for real numbers. Should be on the dyno in a couple weeks at most. 
It should make some good numbers. I agree with using the solid flat tappet cam. Keep us updated. Chuck

 
Basically a hot stock-ish build. TRW L2379F zero decked, stock crank, stock rods w/ARP2000 hardware. McLeod steel flywheel, Romac damper. Heads are 71 D1AE-GA w/Ferrea 5000 valves, studs and guides, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum rockers, Cam Research solid flat tappet cam 230/235 .560/.560 lift. Will start with a Torker 351 intake and see where it takes me. Compression looks to be 10.5:1 using 66cc chambers, but heads still need to be CCed for real numbers. Should be on the dyno in a couple weeks at most. 
What are your expectations? I say 410 at 5,900

 
Started color on the body. My neighbor owns a body shop and is showing me how to paint. Got some dust in the Clear. Not sanded or buffed yet. Hood is next

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Finally got her back from all the dodgy "specialists" , went off to my paint guy who did an amazing job on it and the suspension is now sorted. 

Put my door panels in today , got them from Mustang garage or something, will find the name . Best quality I have seen . sorted out the brake lights which were not working , hooked up the vacume advance on the dizzy and put the grill straight , still need to sort the dizzy out , yesterday the rear view mirror went in and I have no idea why the fuel gauge is not happy , pulled it out twice , measures fine on the bench , bridge wires and it shoots to full , so might need to do that again. 

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Your gas gauge problems might be coming from the rear of the car, fuel sending unit or gas tank grounding, electrical connections.

Your door panels do look good.

 
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Fitted up some electric fans on mine and got around to changing out one of the rear side marker lights since they back had broken where the light screws in. Pretty happy with the fans, now just need to tackle wiring them in to the Holley Sniper EFI. Still have to find a place to mount the new Sniper ignition box as well. If anyone has any suggestions on someplace that is kinda inconspicuous that would be awesome. 

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Your gas gauge problems might be coming from the rear of the car, fuel sending unit or gas tank grounding, electrical connections.

Your door panels do look good.
Thanks Don , I suspect its the sending unit , the ground and connectors all test our good, with me bridging them , I took a different path on the doors with the centres in brushed Alu vinyl as opposed to the wood grain. 

 
Gas Gauge sorted, seems you need more then 5liters to register on the gauge and the contacts in the sender unit were not making contact. 

Speedo cable installed so thats working now as well.

Tomorrow we trace the horns and figure out why they not working . Then Drain the oil , I suspect there is abut 2 liters too much in the motor and about 3 liters too much in the transmission. 

 
Have you tried jumping the horns directly from the battery? Pretty common for 50 year old horns to give it up. Also, check the voltage at the horn connectors when someone is pushing the horn.

 
If you have correct power at the horn? Turn the screw at the back of the horn 1 turn forward then 1 turn back. This screw sets the vibratory action of the horn. Often it becomes stuck or sticky not allowing the horn to work. If you hear the honk start to work? adjust the screw until you get a good tone.

 
Finally got her back from all the dodgy "specialists" , went off to my paint guy who did an amazing job on it and the suspension is now sorted. 

Put my door panels in today , got them from Mustang garage or something, will find the name . Best quality I have seen . sorted out the brake lights which were not working , hooked up the vacume advance on the dizzy and put the grill straight , still need to sort the dizzy out , yesterday the rear view mirror went in and I have no idea why the fuel gauge is not happy , pulled it out twice , measures fine on the bench , bridge wires and it shoots to full , so might need to do that again. 

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Can you show us a picture of your wheels?

 
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