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I could have matched all keys to the Shelby (keeping the Shelby as original as I can), but I did not feel like popping off the door panels on the vert.
Can't you access the lock cylinders without removing the door panels? The lock cylinder keeper is on the edge of the door. Then once the cylinder is loose, pull it out a bit to access the lock rod and the little retainer.
 
Removed the Stang's old gas tank. It started leaking last month. Draining it was scary. So is all the rust that's in it. I'll have to get back out there tomorrow.

Do y'all think I should change out my fuel line too?
 

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Removed the Stang's old gas tank. It started leaking last month. Draining it was scary. So is all the rust that's in it. I'll have to get back out there tomorrow.

Do y'all think I should change out my fuel line too?
Yes, change the fuel line.
 
Option #2: Run with your existing fuel line and install a quality inline glass fuel filter near the carb. After running your Mustang for say 100 miles or so you can observe how much sediment is picked up from the old line. Since you have a new tank this "test" will give you a good indication of the fuel line condition. NOTE: Some forum members do not care for glass see thru filters, but I'm just giving you an option to my first recommendation to install new fuel lines. Keep us posted on progress.
 
Can't you access the lock cylinders without removing the door panels? The lock cylinder keeper is on the edge of the door. Then once the cylinder is loose, pull it out a bit to access the lock rod and the little retainer.
I needed to remove the inner soft door panels, not the metal shell. I should have been more specific.
 
I needed to remove the inner soft door panels, not the metal shell. I should have been more specific.
Thats what I meant. Can't you replace the lock cylinders even with the interior door panels still attached to the doors?
 
Thats what I meant. Can't you replace the lock cylinders even with the interior door panels still attached to the doors?
Nope. I have to access the lock and latch release rods that attach to the lock cylinder “ears.” Glass has to be rolled up and interior panels off for access. tight quarters even than.
 
Today I tackled replacing a stripped wheel stud, but the nut on the hub is 1-1/8” and I did not have that size socket, so I ordered one. Will get that done next week. So I went at the shifter console which was in real sad shape. I tried taking as much of the foil material off as I could and then sprayed some flex primer, followed by SEM Landau Black paint. I ran over to Hobby Lobby to buy the Molotow chrome pen and did the trim. I am pleased with the result, and even though is not 100% perfect, it is way better than it was. Again, thanks to the info on this forum. Before and after pics below.

Great results. Can the chrome pen be used to touch up the chrome around the rest of the gauges on the instrument panel?
 
Option #2: Run with your existing fuel line and install a quality inline glass fuel filter near the carb. After running your Mustang for say 100 miles or so you can observe how much sediment is picked up from the old line. Since you have a new tank this "test" will give you a good indication of the fuel line condition. NOTE: Some forum members do not care for glass see thru filters, but I'm just giving you an option to my first recommendation to install new fuel lines. Keep us posted on progress.
Option 3 (really just a variation of option 2) you could spray carb or brake cleaner in the line and blow it out with an air gun and have a coffee filter on the other end (this is where having a friend to hold the coffee filter comes in handy) and then you can assess what comes out as to whether you need to change the fuel line or just need to clean it out real well.
 
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Great results. Can the chrome pen be used to touch up the chrome around the rest of the gauges on the instrument panel?
I’m sure it could but I would only use it on the raised parts of the trim. My dash bezel has the silver deep gauge circles and the rest is back. I would not do the deep part of the gauges.
 
This is my second try for a radiator coolant overflow tank installation. This one fits very well and I think it is a keeper. It fits in front of the windshield wiper fluid tank, just behind the A/C hose. Right now it is lightly wedged in place between the A/C hose and apron. Eventually you could use a strap to hold it in place. The tank is a Dorman's #603-506. The tank looks pretty good and it fits like a glove.

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How many fluid ounces does it hold? It looks like it fits pretty tightly - do you have it fastened or is it wedged securely. Also, I see the connection between the two but is there is tube from the cap to the bottom of the inside to withdraw fluid?
 
Removed the Stang's old gas tank. It started leaking last month. Draining it was scary. So is all the rust that's in it. I'll have to get back out there tomorrow.

Do y'all think I should change out my fuel line too?
YES!! Rubber portions should be Injector HP hose as it is somewhat ethanol proof. I chose SS lines to the pump that I also replaced. I bent up a new 3/8" steel line to the Holley carb from the pump. A steel fuel filter was added between the apron and pump. NO glass filters!!
The best tank on the market is Spectra Premium F32A from Rock Auto, best price. Fuel sender Dorman 692232.
Do it once, do it right. Lots has been posted on this subject.
 
How many fluid ounces does it hold? It looks like it fits pretty tightly - do you have it fastened or is it wedged securely. Also, I see the connection between the two but is there is tube from the cap to the bottom of the inside to withdraw fluid?
I don't know but probably a pint. Here is an updated picture. I have since used a small bracket to hold it in place. I had it wedged for a while but then I used a bracket I had around that worked perfect. And yes, the cap has a tube that goes all the way to the bottom, which keeps the radiator completely filled.
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While i was working on my visors today I notice the passenger side sill plate was loose. I grabbed a Phillips and tightened them. While I was at it, I figure I check the driver side also. Those were loose. I then decided to start checking all the screws on the halo, the doors seals and panels. Although most were snug or still tight there were a few especially on the doors seals at the windows that took anywhere from a half to a full turn. I guess the rubber has compressed over time. I also notice I had left 2 screws out from the rear panels. Might make of couple of my rattles go away. It's the first time I have checked them since I finished my rebuild. I plan on going over the screws on the fold down and the rest of what I can get to in the next few days.
 
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