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Yesterday I climbed into the trunk and found the other side of the rust holes, cleaned them up and primed them. I found a friend who would let me borrow his welder. I've never welded before, but I guess I better learn now. I'm looking at just getting the whole patch panels from NPD and cutting them down to what fits best, rather than trying to bend a piece of flat sheet into the right shape to match the corners of the fender well. Any thoughts?

 
Moved on to the interior... Found the front passenger floor area had been spray pained silver to cover up surface rust. Now I know why the heater core is bypassed in the engine compartment... Looks like I will be changing that out now while the car is like this. I will rust proof all the hidden areas while the interior is out also and install some dynamat along with the factory insulation. Dealt with the surface rust properly and the floorboard is still in great shape and I added some additional seam sealer where necessary. I will clean and re-lube all of the window moving parts as well. It’s always better knowing and dealing with if necessary; what is under the carpet, behind equipment in the long run...

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Any luck finding the build sheet ?

 
Any luck finding the build sheet ?
Sadly, no. Someone had the carpet out before and removed it. It did not come with the paperwork for the car. Ticked off... You can see a piece of it stuck to the tar/insulation on the floor.

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Today I got the StreetorTrack coilover conversion kit bolted up. The fit and finish is fantastic, so everything went together pretty smoothly. Also got the Baer bump steer kit for the outer tie rods and SoT's camber kit.

The old suspension was CRUSTY... It was a bit overdue for replacing.

Just have a few more minor things to check off the todo list, then should be good to go for a test drive before getting to the alignment shop.

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Pulled the engine today to fix a rear main seal leak. Internals look great, which is really assuring since this was the first engine I built. This is after about 8,000 miles and 2 years of driving.

Also taking this opportunity to clean, strip and repaint the engine bay. I'll make another post of the after shot.

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Cleaned on the 73 Mach 1 some getting ready for the P.I.T.S. Ponies in the Smokies show this coming week. I did finally find a 20' 8.5' with 6.5' inside height, Vee front with stone guard enclosed trailer and it is in the driveway so good to go there. Has radial tires also. 13,000 lb. tag on the old truck with 307,000+ miles hope it will make the trip. I did put a thermostat in couple weeks ago had service engine light and when read said engine was running too cold. I had never changed the antifreeze or any hoses so it has fresh coolant now.
Bringing trailer home runs smooth at 70 mph and after adjusting the electric brake control stops and you cannot tell it is there. Ended up with two 5,200 lb. axles and this one has insulated roof so should not sweat inside, trailer weights in at 3,200 lbs.. Don't have time to seal up the wood floor will do that later I guess. Added a bunch more reflective tape to all sides it is white which was also difficult to locate. Seems Covid has affected lots of the suppliers of components and the sheeting.
So off to the shop in a few to get the car on the 2 post lift and finish wiping car down.
The show is sold out for spaces for the outside show with 800 spots. They have had lots sign up for some that drop out. Some are coming from California all the way to Pigeon Forge, Tenn. for the show. I am inside they will have 58 cars one for each year.
They do have a guarded locked parking lot for the trailers to be parked in. I ordered tracking devices for car and trailer but have not arrived yet. I do have lock for the trailer hitch and also chain to lock up the wheels. Maybe some pictures next week. Here is link to the show if anyone can make it.
https://poniesinthesmokies.com/

 
Working on dimensional drawings for a set of subframe connectors. Not thrilled with the available offerings, so I'm rolling my own. Spent some time modeling the underside of the car. Finally got the rear kick-up dims nailed down and ready to add that into the model, then I can error check again and start creating the brackets and tube path. Hopefully I'll have prototype pieces by the end of the week. 

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I finished seam welding the front frame rails, crossmembers and shock towers over the weekend.  I have a few places where I need to dress down the welds then I can finish cleaning and get it painted. Then to get back on the harness and reassembly. I'm hoping to get it back on the road by June 1 at the latest. 

 
Finally pulled the rear end out, pulled the axles, out, and started cleaning it for repainting. Started draining the gas tank to drop it next. I just realized I should pull the exhaust first. I guess I'll do that next. I'm almost done tearing things apart, though!

 
I looked at the Mach 1 today but had to come up with a solution for all the mud that rain has washed over the gravel in my driveway to shop. I hooked up my little trailer and headed to the quarry. Got 3,240 lbs. in the first load a single axle trailer. Went home and spread on drive and was back to the quarry in 2 hr. 5 min.. Got 3,560 lbs. this trip and just finished putting it down. Now if the rain will hold off might make it to the show on Thursday.
I have had half a dozen people come look and all of them wanted thousands to fix the drive.

 
Today I got the StreetorTrack coilover conversion kit bolted up. The fit and finish is fantastic, so everything went together pretty smoothly. Also got the Baer bump steer kit for the outer tie rods and SoT's camber kit.

The old suspension was CRUSTY... It was a bit overdue for replacing.

Just have a few more minor things to check off the todo list, then should be good to go for a test drive before getting to the alignment shop.
Nice! Two questions.

What does the bump steer kit does? It seems to lift the rod connection. Do you have a pic?

Did you have any issues with binding between the strut rod and the sway bar? What diameter is the sway bar?

 
Nice! Two questions.

What does the bump steer kit does? It seems to lift the rod connection. Do you have a pic?

Did you have any issues with binding between the strut rod and the sway bar? What diameter is the sway bar?


Yeah, so the idea behind the bump steer kit is to prevent any unwanted drift or uncertainty in the steering when encountering bumps or potholes in the road. As the suspension compresses up/down, there is a change in toe. Generally, the more you lower the car, the more bumpsteer you are gonna encounter as the suspension geometry changes from the factory setup. The idea behind the bumpsteer kit, is to use spacers to relocate the tie rods so that they intersect with the car's instant center - if you draw an imaginary line from the upper control arm and from the lower control arm, the instant center would be where they intersect. I'm having my alignment shop use a bump steer gauge to dial in the correct number of spacers so that the bump steer is minimized.

No issues whatsoever with the strut rod and sway bar clearance. I'm running the factory sway bar right now, but I'll be getting streetortrack's 1 1/8" sway bar to replace it.

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Yeah, so the idea behind the bump steer kit is to prevent any unwanted drift or uncertainty in the steering when encountering bumps or potholes in the road. As the suspension compresses up/down, there is a change in toe. Generally, the more you lower the car, the more bumpsteer you are gonna encounter as the suspension geometry changes from the factory setup. The idea behind the bumpsteer kit, is to use spacers to relocate the tie rods so that they intersect with the car's instant center - if you draw an imaginary line from the upper control arm and from the lower control arm, the instant center would be where they intersect. I'm having my alignment shop use a bump steer gauge to dial in the correct number of spacers so that the bump steer is minimized.

No issues whatsoever with the strut rod and sway bar clearance. I'm running the factory sway bar right now, but I'll be getting streetortrack's 1 1/8" sway bar to replace it.
Thank you. I was reading the instructions as well, and with what you are saying, the hardest part may be to find a shop that knows how to setup for bump steer.

 
Yeah, so the idea behind the bump steer kit is to prevent any unwanted drift or uncertainty in the steering when encountering bumps or potholes in the road. As the suspension compresses up/down, there is a change in toe. Generally, the more you lower the car, the more bumpsteer you are gonna encounter as the suspension geometry changes from the factory setup. The idea behind the bumpsteer kit, is to use spacers to relocate the tie rods so that they intersect with the car's instant center - if you draw an imaginary line from the upper control arm and from the lower control arm, the instant center would be where they intersect. I'm having my alignment shop use a bump steer gauge to dial in the correct number of spacers so that the bump steer is minimized.

No issues whatsoever with the strut rod and sway bar clearance. I'm running the factory sway bar right now, but I'll be getting streetortrack's 1 1/8" sway bar to replace it.
@Galucha What spring rate did you go with for your coilovers?

 
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@Galucha What spring rate did you go with for your coilovers?
Good question, I didn't actually see a spring rate listed on their site, but I went with the sport profile with small block selected, so I'm pretty sure it's a lighter spring. Rides about how I expected - definitely absorbs bumps in the road better than the stock setup, but not as harsh as a lot of other modern sport cars I've driven. Overall they're a massive improvement over the stock coil springs in terms of how fast they're able to react.

 
Well after shoveling the over 3 tons of gravel yesterday I did get back to the car today. I only have one more day and Thursday have to head to Pigeon Forge, Tenn. for the P.I.T.S. show.
Today I had the car on the 2 post lift and pulled the tires off and scrubbed the show ones good and also the rollers. Will drive the car into trailer and to show inside with the rollers and put the new Goodyear RWL on in the show floor.
I got all the crap off from when I got the car out last had mud at the garage as usual. If I ever win the lottery pave the drive is first on the list.
Have all my original paperwork on a board for display do not know what they will allow. Some shows want you to keep it simple so people move on and do not spend too much time. Crazy I know but have been told that in the past. Also have the Elite Marti and an original 1973 Mustang showroom banner that I got from Daniel Carpenter out of his private collection.
So looking cloudy hope it does not rain. Have not had TV for months so never see the weather. Something happened to my weather ap on the phone also. Will have to check.
So tomorrow will try to start it has not been started in about 16 months I think. I did charge the battery but said was 71% when I hooked up the charger. Was going to pump the old fuel out and put in fresh but it has stabil and Lucas gas additive so will see how it goes.
This is killing the old man. Next week I talk to surgeon on when he can put the plates and screws in my neck so I can function again.
It looks like the Mustang Day celebration at the Mustang Owner's Museum if dead. North Carolina not relaxing the Covid restrictions on gatherings.
BTW the 2 post makes it handy when wiping down the car you put it where you have the least pain and go for it.
Any other members going to the P.I.T.S.? I will be part of the inside 58. At least I will not get wet or snowed on.
Something else I did today I got insurance on the car for first time since 1982. I am not a believer in insurance if they make billions must be cheaper not to have it. I have to show proof of insurance so I got on line filled out the Hagerty form but it did not have the option for just a show car no driving so I called. It was like$440 for $50,000 with limited driving. When I called just for a show car covered while in transport and load and unload and at the show was $276 for $50,000 and if I wanted the option if it were totaled to keep the car and also get the pay out was $318 so I went with that. I do not insure my home or my garage never seen the need if you are safe. No insurance on me either, LOL.

 
I worked on my car today trouble shooting my climate control system. I took the car out of park so I could get the radio bezel off.  I have a B&M Quicksilver shifter that sits right up against the center stack when in park. When I was done I forgot to put the car back in park.  I went to start it up and was pumping the gas when the engine fired up.  I got it stopped about 2 inches from my workbench.   Talk about puckering up the old sphincter muscle and dam near having a heart attack.   My neutral safety switch was working after my rebuild.  I had added a a/f gauge to the side of the shifter cover a few weeks ago and I must have moved or bent the switch when I had the cover off running the wires. I will definitely be fixing it tomorrow.

 
  I got it stopped about 2 inches from my workbench.   Talk about puckering up the old sphincter
Hi Kilgon -- when I read this, even I puckered up just now 5500 miles away ... did you have a glass of scotch afterward to control the old nerve endings? 

When I first got my beautiful green Sportsroof , A van with no tail lights parked in the middle of the road for what looked like no reason ... I had the horrible Mickey Thompsons on at the time .... I rammed my panicking foot onto the brakes and left a big 11 down the road .... geez that was embarrassing --  I drove the rest of the way home with my eyes out on stalks. 

 
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