What does it take to stroke a 351c

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Feb 14, 2016
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Clover
My Car
72 Mach 1, Q code 351CJ, 4 speed.
Yes I am pretty sure I have decided to use the stock 351c instead of the 460... :D   I reserve the right to change my mind again though... lollerz 

So, I have some questions on stroking the 351.  I know several of you have done this.

You have to clearence the block??  

Can you do your own clearancing or does the machine shop have to do it?  

What do you do for clearencing, stick the crank in and then see where the block needs to be ground down?  

Just use a die grinder to grind the block down?

What rotating assembly do you recommend?  Link to it??

 
Yes I am pretty sure I have decided to use the stock 351c instead of the 460... :D   I reserve the right to change my mind again though... lollerz 

So, I have some questions on stroking the 351.  I know several of you have done this.

You have to clearence the block??  

Can you do your own clearancing or does the machine shop have to do it?  

What do you do for clearencing, stick the crank in and then see where the block needs to be ground down?  

Just use a die grinder to grind the block down?

What rotating assembly do you recommend?  Link to it??
scgamecock,

Throw everything away and keep the block and possibly the cylinder heads.

And oh yes, one should have lots of cash on hand.

That's about it,

Boilermaster

 
I ran with the Scat 9000 series 4.00 inch stroke cast crank and no clearance problems except with the oil pan but the Kevko solved this.

Only other issue you might have is when using the Scat forged crank is to make sure you use a spacer for the harmonic balancer

Just use "stroker clearanced" rods and shouldn't be any problems but as always check then check again

Would also recommend machining the block for the 351W one piece rear main seal

If you go for the 3.85 inch stroke (393) you will have less clearance issues, good luck

 
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