wheel bearings... all of them. yay

[Casperfast]

so the car is almost ready to start getting some real miles.  I noticed a sound from the rear left the other day on a short drive down the road.  front and rear is on stands now. . . all 4 corners have play.  so I will be doing my bearings.  but the replacement I looked up appears to be a sealed unit and I thought the 9in was a cup and come.  it's a 72 q code car with a 9 in 3.25 rear end.  can someone just give me all the bearing numbers and seal numbers I need?  lol.  I don't trust the parts store.  thanks

 

[secluff]

Casperfast, you didn't specify if you had disc or drum brakes, but the number info applies to both. If you do end up replacing your rotors or front brake drums, most of the reputable units I've dealt with come with the bearing cups already installed. I'll list the bearing and cup numbers by Ford and industry number which any part house should be able to cross for you.

Inner Bearing: Ford# DOAZ-1201-A  Industry# LM68149

Inner Cup:        Ford# DOAZ-1202-A  Industry#LM68110

Outer Bearing  Ford# DOAZ-1216-A  Industry#LM12749

Outer Cup        Ford# DOAZ1217-B   Industry#LM12710

Oil Seal for Rotor/Drum C8AZ-1190-A   National# 6815

Rear Wheel Bearing (Sealed Ball Bearing) DOAZ-1225-A Replaced by D8DZ-1225-B  Industry #RW-207-CCRA, # 207-CC, 207-DD, F207-KK  (For some reason there are several industry numbers but these are the most commonly used)

Rear axle seal with 28 splines C7OZ-1177-B  Industry# National 9569-S (Most common axle)

Rear Axle seal with 31 splines C7OZ-1177-A  Industry# National 6363-S

These should be enough numbers to keep the parts house and your credit card busy for a while.  

 

[Casperfast]

I have factory front disc, rear drum brakes

 

[Casperfast]

and I did see that the front rotor hubs have a come. but I don't think you should mix a cup and come. if so then is that OK on these wheel ends?

 

[Hemikiller]

You can trust Rock Auto's parts catalog. Bought plenty from them over the last couple years with no issues.

https://www.rockauto.com/

I do recommend the SKF/Timken/National brands over any of the others.

FYI - some new front rotors come with cones installed, I knock them out and install the cones that come with the bearing sets. May or may not be necessary, but I prefer matched parts from the mfr.

 

[Casperfast]

thats what i always do as well. OK thanks

 

[Casperfast]

Casperfast, you didn't specify if you had disc or drum brakes, but the number info applies to both. If you do end up replacing your rotors or front brake drums, most of the reputable units I've dealt with come with the bearing cups already installed. I'll list the bearing and cup numbers by Ford and industry number which any part house should be able to cross for you.

Inner Bearing: Ford# DOAZ-1201-A  Industry# LM68149

Inner Cup:        Ford# DOAZ-1202-A  Industry#LM68110

Outer Bearing  Ford# DOAZ-1216-A  Industry#LM12749

Outer Cup        Ford# DOAZ1217-B   Industry#LM12710

Oil Seal for Rotor/Drum C8AZ-1190-A   National# 6815

Rear Wheel Bearing (Sealed Ball Bearing) DOAZ-1225-A Replaced by D8DZ-1225-B  Industry #RW-207-CCRA, # 207-CC, 207-DD, F207-KK  (For some reason there are several industry numbers but these are the most commonly used)

Rear axle seal with 28 splines C7OZ-1177-B  Industry# National 9569-S (Most common axle)

Rear Axle seal with 31 splines C7OZ-1177-A  Industry# National 6363-S

These should be enough numbers to keep the parts house and your credit card busy for a while.  

OK this is great,  so the new rear bearings ARE sapposed to be sealed now rather than cup and come? 

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

A couple of tips on the bearings.

The rears of course are sealed units and do go bad more often than the fronts. With the fronts being a cone bearing you have to torque the spindle nut while rotating the rotor to the Ford spec and back off to the spec. I do not have it in front of me. The front bearings seldom go bad. When you are taking apart I remove the caliper and hang by a wire so I do not crimp the rubber hose which can damage it. I then remove the dust cap, take the carter pin out and remove the nut and washer. Rock the rotor and the inner part of the cone bearing will come out. Then put the nut back on without the washer and as you remove the rotor hook the nut on the inside bearing and it will pop out the seal and the inner bearing.

If you wash them up and there is no marks on them I would not replace them just clean super clean inside the rotor and the bearing and put the correct bearing grease in. Work the grease into the caged bearings with your fingers if you do not have a tool to fill them. Always go back with new seals they are cheap.

If you are doing a little clean up you can use charcoal grill high temp paint to paint the rotor and caliper of course not the braking surface. Always use a new carter pin also.

The front bearings usually fail due to incorrect torque on the spindle nut. If you get new rotors they come with the inner cone installed. The bearings are made to such tight tolerances you can still use your old cage part of the bearing and do not have to replace unless they need it. The tolerances on bearings are into the Millionths of an inch.

When replacing the rear axle bearings make sure they do not press them on by pressing on the outer race of the bearing. Never hammer them on unless you have a piece of pipe that fits over the axle and only hits the inner part of the bearing. Pressing on only hit the inner also.

I use to split the rear bearings in my 69 Ford van 9" rear all the time overloading it. I carried a piece of pipe and extra bearings with me and had to change a couple times on trips out west.

David