Where to start? 1971 Spring Special Mustang Build Thread

[Don65Stang]

Unless you are preparred to tackle the rust issues now, I'd suggest using something to stop the rust that is there now. Some of our members with rust fighting experience can suggest products - "Rust Bullet" is one that comes to mind. Then you can pick your battles and attack them one at a time.

Agree to check with Don at OMS for panels. He also has some parts cars if the stuff you need is not repopped.

Good luck!

Ray

Qcode351mach (Scott) has posted how to videos when he built his 72 Mach 1 on YouTube. I would start by watching ALL of his videos.

http://www.youtube.com/user/fuzzenut/videos?flow=grid&sort=da&view=0

Ray has some good advice in his post above. Get a quart of "Rust Bullet - Automotive". Use a foam roller and foam paint brushes to apply Rust Bullet to the rusty areas and the areas under those areas that you'll never be able to reach once you make the repair. Coat those areas with RB while you have the access. Be sure to wear rubber gloves because that stuff doesn't come off your skin.

You can order Rust Bullet from Sears and they ship to Hawaii.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPA12566S8104453502?origin=sears.com&shcapiBypassSSO=true

 

[73MustangCoupe]

Hey Mason,

Welcome from Western Tennessee! ::welcome:: Check out the trunk floor before replacing that tail light panel. If you need to replace the truck floor, it will be much easier witht he tail light panel removed. Don at Ohio Mustang Supply can get you most of what you need, although shipping to Hawaii will not be cheap.

Any of these old cars can be restored. All it takes is patience and a little skill (can be learned). Good luck with your project.

 

[Steven Harris]

This may not go over well and I have no idea what is available in Hawaii but ...

I think that you have found a good donor car - now look for a good project car. By the time you replace all that needs replaced you will have spent your time in Hawaii and not have enjoyed Hawaii. That and you will have spent all of your spending money.

My advice would be to look for another 71-73 Mustang with a better body in need of the parts that you now have. Yes, your car can be fixed but why?

 

[luxstang]

Hi Mason and ::welcome:: from Luxembourg, Europe.

 

[Mister 4x4]

So I checked the car out more... Everything that is good: trunk floor, battery tray, frame (surface rust), door hinges. The original owner had the car restored which explains why the interior is nearly perfect. From sitting for four years with no cover it's has rust in these spots.

All the electrical works.. lights, radio, dash. I've also noticed when cleaning the engine today that it was painted blue as well as transmission. So the engine has had work on it. The guy I bought it from did say he ran a compression test on it and cylinder test was low, and might need new rings. So far I bought a new alternator, starter, solenoid, regulator, and coil. It starts right up. It accelerates quick but I think it can do better.

I still need to pull the carpet up and check the floor panels, I'm sure they are a rusty, but will check tomorrow.




There is a hobby shop on base, that's where I bought it.



The rear panel underneath the rear window was cut out by the previous owner, the piece is in the trunk. I believe he cut it out to fix the rust where the window is at.

Do you know that forum member that might have those quarter panels that I could patch it up with?

Anyone have a coupe parts car?

Good news all around! ::thumb::

I think I'm that guy with the '73 Coupe parts car... and it's gone now. Auron1973Mach1 and I went halfsies on a couple of parts cars, stripped all the goodies... and they're both done. The quarters on it were junk anyway, FWIW.

The upside is that your Dad has been intimate with these cars for such a long time, that you've basically grown up with 'em. So, I'm guessing you're familiar with all the known issues and bad areas - good for you!

Can't wait to see how you get this one back together! Good luck with it and let the questions fly when you think of them - I'm sure someone has had experience with everything you're about to take on.

 

[73StangCoupe]

Hey Mason,

I'm really happy to see so many good things happening in your life. Your father is VERY proud... as he should be. Looks to me like you are already getting some great advise, there are lots of very knowledgeable and helpful people who belong to this forum. I'm not one of those guys that can help you on the technical aspects of repairing your car. The only advise I can offer is do your own research, listen to the good advise you're getting and make your own decision on what to do with YOUR car. I'm glad to see you went with a Coupe and a blue one at that!! Semper Fi...

 

[73MustangCoupe]

Mason,

One word of advice - before you start cutting and welding on it, remove the fuel tank. Keep a big fire extinguisher handy, not one of the kitchen ones, but one, or two, of the 10 lb commercial jobs. After my 73 Mustang Coupe burned, I wound up getting Rusty from your dad, and that's what I'm working on now. Like yours, it's a basket case, but I'm determined to save it. I'm thinking 3-5 years, to get it done. In your case, if the USMC decides to move you, will they ship your car if it's not running? If not, you'll have to keep it driveable until you can get it back home.

I know some folks ask why, when there is so much rust. I simply respond, because I can. This old soldier has never been one to take the easy way out, and being a Marine, apparently you aren't either. Good luck.

 

[Don65Stang]

Even with all the rust I saw on your Facebook page where you entered it in a car show yesterday. Good job!

 

[masonf94]

I don't get out of the marine corps for another 3 yrs so I'll be in Hawaii till then, that might be enough time to fix rust and new paint.

 

[Don65Stang]

In case you haven't seen it here is Ford's ad for the Spring Special from back in the day.

 

[Go Time]

Welcome from Indiana

 

[cudak888]

The rear panel underneath the rear window was cut out by the previous owner, the piece is in the trunk. I believe he cut it out to fix the rust where the window is at.

Do you know that forum member that might have those quarter panels that I could patch it up with?

Did the previous owner retain the flange which connects the quarters to the filler panel, or did he cut the panel at the actual quarters? It looks as if he may have done the latter, which may make the repair challenging (not impossible, just challenging).

EDIT: Serves me right for not enlarging the photo. The flanges are there and intact. You could probably form a patch panel out of a flat piece of steel, and bend a new window channel into the edge with a metal brake. Getting the patch panel cut just right is the tricky part!

Found the car I had in mind. It's been hacked up nicely, so it's the perfect sheet metal donor:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-mustang-coupe--18401

-Kurt

Mason,

One word of advice - before you start cutting and welding on it, remove the fuel tank.

+1 to this, and it would be advisable to remove the fuel line (only a few bolts on the floorpan, a pair of clamps, and a bit of fandangling) to help purge all the gases from under the car, in addition to eliminating the one direct link from the fuel pump/carb to the back of the car.

Very important if you're working on the left floorpan, left wheelwell, or anywhere on the bottom left of the car.

-Kurt

 

[droptop73]

Hi Mason, welcome to the group, from west Michigan.

I'm gonna put on my old fart dad hat a minute. It looks like you're gonna drive it in it's present state... SAFETY!!!!! Steering, BRAKES, suspension, suspension mounting points, exhaust, etc., etc., etc. As a veteran of many "rolling restorations" (some of which tried to kill me) the car needs to be safe before it's fast, before it's pretty, before you do something dumb with it. I'm a car guy and have done stupid X3, I know the temptations. I know you're from a good family and have been raised right! I want to make sure you have the opportunity to be an old fart car guy giving advice to a young buck with his first hot rod.

OK, dad monment over! Enjoy your car, learn all you can, and have fun. When it gets to be too much, walk away for a while and come back to it.

 

[Don65Stang]

Found the car I had in mind. It's been hacked up nicely, so it's the perfect sheet metal donor:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-mustang-coupe--18401

-Kurt

Mason,

One word of advice - before you start cutting and welding on it, remove the fuel tank.

+1 to this, and it would be advisable to remove the fuel line (only a few bolts on the floorpan, a pair of clamps, and a bit of fandangling) to help purge all the gases from under the car, in addition to eliminating the one direct link from the fuel pump/carb to the back of the car.

Very important if you're working on the left floorpan, left wheelwell, or anywhere on the bottom left of the car.

-Kurt

Excellent Kurt! Thanks for finding the parts car link.

 

[cudak888]

Excellent Kurt! Thanks for finding the parts car link.

No problem. I always try to memorize sheet metal donors in case I can ever link them to the perfect patient.

Problem is, I usually remember the car better than where I found it :blush:

-Kurt

 

[Don65Stang]

Mason,

Step 1 is to practice welding scrap sheet metal together. Practice a lot...preferably with someone who knows how to weld teaching you. If the shop offers a class - take the class. Maybe the community college offers a welding class. Ask around. Do not just start welding on the car, you will quickly screw up the car.

Step 1 continued is to watch Scott's YouTube videos in building his 72 Mach 1 and watch Mig welding videos. Practice, practice, practice.

Step 2 is to repeat step 1 at least 15 times until you can stitch two pieces of sheet metal together without it looking all screwed up. If you don't know what stitching the metal together is then keep watching MIG welding videos until you do know and can do it to the sheet metal and it looks good.

Step 3. Post pics of your best practice piece that you stitched together.

 

[cudak888]

And a preface to that Step #1:

If the Auto Body Shop doesn't have a good welder on hand, buy your own. Trying to learn MIG welding with a cheap unit that can't feed the wire right is not fun.

That, and a MIG welder is just too handy to have around if you love the idea of building things from steel.

-Kurt

 

[73MustangCoupe]

And a preface to that Step #1:

If the Auto Body Shop doesn't have a good welder on hand, buy your own. Trying to learn MIG welding with a cheap unit that can't feed the wire right is not fun.

That, and a MIG welder is just too handy to have around if you love the idea of building things from steel.

-Kurt

+1 on the welder, but don't skimp. For sheet metal, you'll definitely need gas. Flux core wire will NOT work for sheet metal work. I've got a 115V Eastwood 135. For autobody work, it, or it's equivalent, will do what you need. Good luck.

 

[cudak888]

+1 on the welder, but don't skimp. For sheet metal, you'll definitely need gas. Flux core wire will NOT work for sheet metal work. I've got a 115V Eastwood 135. For autobody work, it, or it's equivalent, will do what you need. Good luck.

+1,000 on that.

Also - though you shouldn't skimp on the welder or the fittings and gauges, you should be fine with a bottle of Argon/CO2 mix from Harbor Freight if you can't find a bottle anywhere else.*

I didn't even realize HF carried welding bottles until a store opened up two weeks ago in my neighborhood. I had to drive clear across town to a welding supply for the same thing previously.

-Kurt

*This is one of the few things you'll ever hear me recommend Harbor Freight for. I don't usually suggest it - unless what you intend to buy is not available in better quality from anyone else, regardless of price. Case in point: Their stud welder. Most everything out there in an affordable price range is the same as their $99 cheap-o (which has good reviews), so no point in spending more money there. Sockets and wrenches though...no!

You'll find their el-cheapo $4.99 welding vise-grip clamps to be quite handy though, especially as you'll need a lot of them here. Unfortunately, my HF doesn't sell them with long "C" tongs.

 

[masonf94]

OK Gents, after work today, I took a closer look at the car, great news! I lifted the carpet and the floor panels are free of rust! I then took everything out of the trunk inspected all meal and haven't found anything, except the taillight panel. All four wheel wells are looking pretty good too. Seems like the only rust on the car is where I took pictures of.

So before anything else I decided to start where the rear window is (it's open to weather). My plan is tomorrow go to the hobby shop and bust off the bad rust till it's salvageable then paint over the rusted areas with rust bullet. Once that's done, I'm going to get some sheet metal. They have a good welder machine at the hooby shop and mechanic on standby (the previous owner is a mechanic at the shop). Once the new metal is in place I should be able to put the window in.

will take pics as I progress tomorrow, tonight will consist of watching those videos. hahah thanks for the advice guys!

Hi Mason, welcome to the group, from west Michigan.

I'm gonna put on my old fart dad hat a minute. It looks like you're gonna drive it in it's present state... SAFETY!!!!! Steering, BRAKES, suspension, suspension mounting points, exhaust, etc., etc., etc. As a veteran of many "rolling restorations" (some of which tried to kill me) the car needs to be safe before it's fast, before it's pretty, before you do something dumb with it. I'm a car guy and have done stupid X3, I know the temptations. I know you're from a good family and have been raised right! I want to make sure you have the opportunity to be an old fart car guy giving advice to a young buck with his first hot rod.

OK, dad moment over! Enjoy your car, learn all you can, and have fun. When it gets to be too much, walk away for a while and come back to it.

The previous owner put new brakes on it, brake cylinders, drums, etc. It stops pretty well. In Hawaii every car has to have a safety inspection annually... checking the brakes, tires, all lighting has to work, windshield wipers, fuel lines, exhaust, the whole nine yards, so its up to date haha the only thing that's not safe is that back window being out of it.