WIDE-BODY KIT FROM SCRATCH

[Wide-body71]

Thanks very much Fabrice. This will definitely be the buck and not the final piece. I just wasn’t sure if I was going the route of blow form plastic or carbon fibre in a bag or fibreglass mould and then make the piece from that. Mounting points will be the rad support across the bottom as that will help also with the front valance support as well and two vertical points going to the bumper bracket support. This I would like to contain inside a vertical detail I will design. I’m not sure I want to see adjustable racing rods on this car. I want to be able to repeat this piece easily in case it does get damaged over the years. The nose hangs past the tired pretty far on these cars.

 

[Fabrice]

As you have experience with plastic, as seen for your back window, I guess you could do that to get the mould, (tho not sure how that would react to temperature if you would use it to cast the positive using polymers) but for the final piece, I'd use a material that absorb shocks and doesn't shatter. Carbon fiber would get my vote, as aside its legendary strength properties, you would need a somewhat less strong structure to hold its weight and the anchors you describe would handle front wind with not too much problems.

Looking again at the shape on the pict, the surface will try to push down, so a flat connection between the two elements allowing a few screws extra along the width would prevent that you get gaps and vibrations in the end.

http://aprperformance.com/2015_mustang-front-aero/

Here they use rods... prolly partly to make it look more racy, but surely because there is some serious wind force going on.

 

[Wide-body71]

I didn’t like the shovel nose I was getting. Wanted to pull things back and keep it tighter. I’m pleased with it so far. This weekend I will look st it again and see what more it may need. I’m leaning towards textured black do it’s less in your face at first glance.

 

[Wide-body71]

best image hosting

 

[luxstang]

Looking good. You could do the lip the same color as the stripes so it would be more or less obvious depending on your position and it would blend in with the overall color theme.

Or go flat black.

 

[RocketFoot]

That lip looks amazing!  Love it!!

 

[Wide-body71]

Looking good. You could do the lip the same color as the stripes so it would be more or less obvious depending on your position and it would blend in with the overall color theme.

Or go flat black.

I was considering the charcoal wrap but it’s taking too much attention. I think I’d rather have shape of the piece be enough and do it matte textured black.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

A bead roller used lightly behind the leading edge would stiffen the part up I would think and would look slick once it was painted flat or textured black.

 

[Wide-body71]

A little before and after. Now I just need my fastening points and it’s done.

 

[clevelandcoupe]

Perfect !!!

 

[luxstang]

Yup! I stand corrected. The flat black look is perfect.

I should have learned by now that I don't need to make any suggestions as you know exactly what you're doing and your ideas are better anyway.

But thanks for humorig me (us).

 

[Wide-body71]

Lol. Actually your idea WAS my first thought. I have the luxury of seeing the car up close and personal. Please keep the suggestions coming. I value all of them.

 

[Wide-body71]

Picking up these fasteners and support rods for the splitter.

 

[OzCoupe72]

Spoiler looks fantastic, only advice I can give is beware of curbs and speed humps!

 

[Wide-body71]

Spoiler looks fantastic, only advice I can give is beware of curbs and speed humps!

Yes. These 2017 muscle cars all have the front tires so close to the front of the car which means the tire goes over the bump before the nose gets a chance to hit anything. With the long overhang these 71-3’s have, I’m not sure I can get into my own driveway without approaching it sideways. No wonder they came from the factory nose up. Anyhow I have 6” of clearance. Should be fine.

 

[Wide-body71]

I believe I will be able to get the strength I need from these fasteners plus the rad support. There will also be the rods inside the piece. I don’t want rods out front framing the licence plate.

 

[Fabrice]

Looks rad!

Aside the awesome looks, I went back to page 62 to see a front shot and I wonder: where will the air go?

You plan to use the build up air pressure/volume for mechanical purpose later on?

 

[Wide-body71]

Yes the two lower openings on either side go directly into the wheel well area. I was advised by a race car driver that piping air directly to the rear of the brakes is not necessary. As long as air is allowed to rush through the inner well will suffice to cool the brakes. Also this car is for street use and will not be seeing the track. I just love the race look. As for the hood ducts the front will be channeled to the intake and the rear ducts are releasing engine heat as a flow through. No defroster heat required lol. The center large openings are the same as stock in the way they behave other than the lower apron having added down force. Again functional but more for a race appearance.

 

[Wide-body71]

So, I’d say so far you all know that I can’t leave anything alone lol. The next craziness on my list is to create a rim and rubber combo that follows my mind set. That’s to make an updated race look while still keeping a vintage feel. Well this is the plan....

 

[Wide-body71]

First thing is to peel the rubber off the rim and send the rims out for a sand blast and a dark charcoal satin metallic powdercoat. Similar to this picture I found on line but all one colour and not two tone.