WRONG MANIFOLD GASKETS INSTALLED

[Stanglover]

If that's for a full rebuild set with 4v exhaust gaskets, please post up the part number...I'll get a set to keep around.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/fel-pro-exhaust-manifold-gasket-mustang-351c-4v-1970-1973/p/EXMG4/Is it correct, they say so. Also I'm seeing some suppliers list then as out of stock and no date for availability. It's just the gaskets, no hardware.

EDIT: I found my set of spare gaskets and the port size is pretty close to that listed for 4V exhaust gaskets, 1.93" x 2.19". The Fel-Pro number on them is 90332, but the box label does not specify which engine they are for.
OK, a bit more research and if you Google Fel-Pro MS 90332, I found all sorts of availability including Amazon.ca (and probably) .com
They're out there folks!

 

[Spike Morelli]

If, as you mentioned, your manifolds were re-finished before installation, they should still be good and flat. As Sheriff mentioned, installing the manifolds sans gaskets is a popular way to go. I've always had the exhaust flange side of the head re-surfaced when the valve job is done, ( super easy on Clevelands and FE), and also the manifold surfaces, to make a dead on seal. I will assemble the two surfaces dry, seems like you should use some sealant, but clean and dry works well.I like to replace the bolts with grade 8 to lessen the possibility of snapping a rusty bolt next time around. I have a new engine shortblocked in the garage, heads about to be in progress. That engine will go in with manifolds, and maybe, just maybe, I'll try headers again, after everything has settled and sealed and all systems are go. I think I'd like to try the FPA units, their road clearance is the best, but we'll see, it's just talk right now.

 

[Hemikiller]

Exactly what Spike said, as a stock intake will use the turkey pan, and the gasket sets are otherwise identical 2V/4V except for the exhaust gaskets, which almost always include 2V parts.

Factory didn't use gaskets on the exhaust manifolds, they were metal to metal. I was taught years ago to never use them either, just surface the manifolds flat with a sanding board and you're good to go.

As far as R&R time, exhaust manifold gaskets should take less than an hour per side.

 

[c9zx]

If, as you mentioned, your manifolds were re-finished before installation, they should still be good and flat. As Sheriff mentioned, installing the manifolds sans gaskets is a popular way to go. I've always had the exhaust flange side of the head re-surfaced when the valve job is done, ( super easy on Clevelands and FE), and also the manifold surfaces, to make a dead on seal. I will assemble the two surfaces dry, seems like you should use some sealant, but clean and dry works well.I like to replace the bolts with grade 8 to lessen the possibility of snapping a rusty bolt next time around. I have a new engine shortblocked in the garage, heads about to be in progress. That engine will go in with manifolds, and maybe, just maybe, I'll try headers again, after everything has settled and sealed and all systems are go. I think I'd like to try the FPA units, their rod clearance is the best, but we'll see, it's just talk right now.

I would look at the rapid merge and short collector on the FPA headers. Just my opinion. Chuck

 

[rfiset]

Thanks to everyone responding. Appreciate it! Great forum!