Yellow Mach 1 is back again!

[jpaz]

Sorry, I for some reason thought it was an idle solenoid that kicked in when a/c turned on. But that makes more sense that’s it’s for emissions and that wire is only hot when key is turned on.

Learn something new every day on here!

 

[Stanglover]

Ok why did my text show up blue after I uploaded the picture?? Cant' seem to figure that one out.

Ya that was weird, it just changed. Thought maybe you were trying to match your engine color? lol.

 No not really. It just happened after I uploaded the pic using "Add Image to post". Actually what I did was this, the pic loaded in the wrong location, so I cut and pasted it where it should be, that's when the blue script showed up. Not only that, it changes color when I hover the mouse pointer over it. Now that is weird!

 

[Stanglover]

Thanks for the input guys. But now I have 2 different answers on the throttle solenoid.  And to be honest when I searched the site for answers I found the exact same answers on the forum.  Some say its just an anit-diesel solenoid, others say its AC  controlled.

Stanglover,

I painted this car about 2 years ago.  The driver side quarter was replaced at that time.  The owner did not want  to do the under hood stuff because of time and money.  He wanted to drive it. So we have been doing little things as time and money permit. A little each winter, so he can drive it in summer. I totally understand pulling the motor is easy, and have done my own more times than I want to count, but he did not want to go that route at this time.  Just wants it detailed up nice and if he decides to rebuild motor in next couple years, we will do the engine bay properly then.  By the way your engine bay is awesome!! Very nice job! So is Jpaz's!!  I will definitely be looking at these as reference for a few things.  

Also what color are the shock tower caps?? They don't seem to be slop gray like the braces??

 Please understand I do understand. The customer is paying what he can afford when he can afford it. His car, his way.

Driver side quarter replaced, no problem there then. I did not know that when I mentioned checking.

Thanks for the comment on my engine bay. The shock tower caps on mine are just glass bead blasted and clear coated so are the hood hinges, but I believe should be phosphate, but not too dark. They were not painted. Items in slop grey are; shock tower braces, hood latch bracket, grill center bracket, head light support outer brackets. I think that's all. I can post pics if needed of mine.

Geoff.

 

[jpaz]

Thanks for the input guys. But now I have 2 different answers on the throttle solenoid.  And to be honest when I searched the site for answers I found the exact same answers on the forum.  Some say its just an anit-diesel solenoid, others say its AC  controlled.

Stanglover,

I painted this car about 2 years ago.  The driver side quarter was replaced at that time.  The owner did not want  to do the under hood stuff because of time and money.  He wanted to drive it. So we have been doing little things as time and money permit. A little each winter, so he can drive it in summer. I totally understand pulling the motor is easy, and have done my own more times than I want to count, but he did not want to go that route at this time.  Just wants it detailed up nice and if he decides to rebuild motor in next couple years, we will do the engine bay properly then.  By the way your engine bay is awesome!! Very nice job! So is Jpaz's!!  I will definitely be looking at these as reference for a few things.  

Also what color are the shock tower caps?? They don't seem to be slop gray like the braces??

 Please understand I do understand. The customer is paying what he can afford when he can afford it. His car, his way.

Driver side quarter replaced, no problem there then. I did not know that when I mentioned checking.

Thanks for the comment on my engine bay. The shock tower caps on mine are just glass bead blasted and clear coated so are the hood hinges, but I believe should be phosphate, but not too dark. They were not painted. Items in slop grey are; shock tower braces, hood latch bracket, grill center bracket, head light support outer brackets. I think that's all. I can post pics if needed of mine.

Geoff.

Thanks! I used cast blast with a top coat of semi-transparent frost for my shock tower caps, a/c bracket and the coil bracket.The frost helped to give it a bit of the phosphate look. Not perfect but not bad either. You can get a lot of the under hood paint info from the 429 mega site. You can do a lot of detailing without pulling the engine.

 

[tony-muscle]

My 71 had a similar solenoid that activates only when I turned the A/C on to raise idle.

As a disclaimer, i dont know the whole history of my car. It came out of the factory without air but all the components are from a factory air car. Most likely added later from a donor car. That said I can't say with certainty if the solenoid in my car is factory for a 1971 A/C car.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[turtle5353]

I got some more stuff tore off the car last night. And have another question. This car has the dual diaphragm distributor. The front vacuum line goes to the carb. Where does the top one go?? It looks like it was cut and was just hanging there. Doesn’t reach any ports.  But there is a nipple with a plug in it on the manifold. Any thoughts??

 

[Stanglover]

Here is a poor sketch of the dual vacuum line routing. You could Google this as there may be a better drawing.

Basically, the rear hose is for the vacuum timing retard. It goes to the thermal vacuum switch that appears to be missing, circled in red, then via a T goes to the manifold nipple. It was intended to retard the timing when the engine got hot like in traffic, to cool the motor down. You don't really need it especially if the timing has been modified.

Here are a couple of pics. Hope that helps.

Geoff.

 

[Hemikiller]

73 vacuum diagrams attached below

1973_ServiceManual_Vol6_EngineEmissions_Mustang.pdf

 

[turtle5353]

Here is a poor sketch of the dual vacuum line routing. You could Google this as there may be a better drawing.

Basically, the rear hose is for the vacuum timing retard. It goes to the thermal vacuum switch that appears to be missing, circled in red, then via a T goes to the manifold nipple. It was intended to retard the timing when the engine got hot like in traffic, to cool the motor down. You don't really need it especially if the timing has been modified.

Here are a couple of pics. Hope that helps.

Geoff.

Thanks!  Yep it looks like that is missing and someone just put a pipe plug in the hole.  Well looks like its not going back on!

 

[Stanglover]

Here is a poor sketch of the dual vacuum line routing. You could Google this as there may be a better drawing.

Basically, the rear hose is for the vacuum timing retard. It goes to the thermal vacuum switch that appears to be missing, circled in red, then via a T goes to the manifold nipple. It was intended to retard the timing when the engine got hot like in traffic, to cool the motor down. You don't really need it especially if the timing has been modified.

Here are a couple of pics. Hope that helps.

Geoff.

Thanks!  Yep it looks like that is missing and someone just put a pipe plug in the hole.  Well looks like its not going back on!

 I actually used that location for a temp sensor when I installed gauges as well as retaining the idiot lights.

 Have fun with it all.

 Geoff.

 

[73pony]

Here is a poor sketch of the dual vacuum line routing. You could Google this as there may be a better drawing.

Basically, the rear hose is for the vacuum timing retard. It goes to the thermal vacuum switch that appears to be missing, circled in red, then via a T goes to the manifold nipple. It was intended to retard the timing when the engine got hot like in traffic, to cool the motor down. You don't really need it especially if the timing has been modified.

Here are a couple of pics. Hope that helps.

Geoff.

Thanks!  Yep it looks like that is missing and someone just put a pipe plug in the hole.  Well looks like its not going back on!

 I actually used that location for a temp sensor when I installed gauges as well as retaining the idiot lights.

 Have fun with it all.

 Geoff.

+1 did the exact same thing.

 

[Stanglover]

73 vacuum diagrams attached below

 A ton of good stuff there, interesting references.

 The diagram and pic was basic reference and to show what was or might be missing.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

  So with the new carb I could just use that lead for my electric choke and be done with it?

I would suggest not doing this. While it will work, there is always the warning with chokes not to use the coil wire as a source of energy. I'm pretty sure it is because of the reduced voltage in the factory wiring to the coil. The solenoid is on the same circuit, unless you can confirm 12 volts at that wire, I would not use it for the choke.

The multimeter is your friend

 

[turtle5353]

So with the new carb I could just use that lead for my electric choke and be done with it?

I would suggest not doing this.  While it will work, there is always the warning with chokes not to use the coil wire as a source of energy.  I'm pretty sure it is because of the reduced voltage in the factory wiring to the coil.  The solenoid is on the same circuit, unless you can confirm 12 volts at that wire, I would not use it for the choke.  

The multimeter is your friend

Thanks for the heads up Jeff!!!

Got a few more issues with it now too!! More I tear it apart, more I find! The distributor is not working properly. The vacuum canister won’t advance the timing plate at all. Think diaphragm is bad. So I maybe looking into installing a duraspark dizzy and box. Luckily I already have a brand new set up. I keep for a spare for long road trip if my msd dies. Anyone know if I can run stock coil with duraspark??

Also pulled battery tray to find a nice big hole that I’m going to have to patch up!!  Seems like it’s never ending with this thing!!

 

[Stanglover]

What's the old saying, "The further I go ahead, the behinder I get" or words to that effect!

Damn leaking battery acid, eats everything.

 A boiled over battery was the reason I decided to pull the motor and redo the bay completely. Cause; a bad voltage regulator. Cure; a box of baking soda and hot water. Left a white film over everything, Horrible mess!

DuraSpark, good choice and what I'd definitely consider if my MotorCraft claps out again.

Geoff.

 

[Don C]

You can use your stock coil if you keep it connected to the stock resistor wire from the ignition switch. DuraSpark, however, needs 12 volts, so you'll have to bypass the resistor wire and run a wire straight from the ignition switch to the DuraSpark module.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I went with an Accel Super Coil (canister style) with my Duraspark set-up.  It puts out 30K volts vs. the stock 19K.  I hid the Duraspark box on the backside of the passenger shock tower, which is hidden very well - I kind of wish I would've mounted on the front side in plain view, though, since it looks more 'factory' than my Redneck Engineered fuse box.  I ran the Duraspark adapter harness I got from NPD along with the factor engine harness through some split loom, and everything looks pretty tidy as a result.  I think when I swap in the fuel injection, I'll move some things around for better aesthetics.

My thermal vacuum tower was broken as well, so I just fitted a nipple into the opening, clamped on a small length of heater hose, and capped it.  Can't even see it under the other hoses and alternator bracket.

 

[turtle5353]

I went with an Accel Super Coil (canister style) with my Duraspark set-up.  It puts out 30K volts vs. the stock 19K.  I hid the Duraspark box on the backside of the passenger shock tower, which is hidden very well - I kind of wish I would've mounted on the front side in plain view, though, since it looks more 'factory' than my Redneck Engineered fuse box.  I ran the Duraspark adapter harness I got from NPD along with the factor engine harness through some split loom, and everything looks pretty tidy as a result.  I think when I swap in the fuel injection, I'll move some things around for better aesthetics.

My thermal vacuum tower was broken as well, so I just fitted a nipple into the opening, clamped on a small length of heater hose, and capped it.  Can't even see it under the other hoses and alternator bracket.

Thanks for the input Eric. I was looking at mounting this box in the same place but there is what looks to be a vacuum canister mounted on the back side of passenger shock tower. See pic below. Anyone know what that is for? Just a canister to run the heater controls??  I assume that needs to be hooked up for the controls to work properly?? The small hose runs to the cowl and the bigger one looked like it went to the motor somewhere but it wasn't hooked up. There are 2 small hoses coming out of center of cowl. Looks like one goes to this canister and the other one goes to a valve on the heater hose.  Whats all this stuff do??  My car has never had any of this stuff...lol  I don't even have a heater box, heater hoses, no AC anymore, nothing.... bare minimum.  But we want to keep all the heater and ac controls working properly on this car. If I need to leave that canister in place , I will probably end up mounting the box on the backside of the driver side shock tower.

 

[Hemikiller]

That's the vacuum reservoir for the A/C system. It provides a stable source of vacuum for the system, otherwise the doors will constantly open and close as vacuum rises and falls while driving.

Small nipple is for black hose coming from the cowl, the other to a 1/4" hose to the vacuum tree on the back of the intake for full manifold vacuum. The hoses from the cowl are color coded, see the attached vacuum diagram. The purple cowl hose goes to the valve in the heater hose, to shut off the hot water supply when the temp selector is in the "cold" range.

71 mustang vacuum.pdf

 

[turtle5353]

That's the vacuum reservoir for the A/C system. It provides a stable source of vacuum for the system, otherwise the doors will constantly open and close as vacuum rises and falls while driving.

Small nipple is for black hose coming from the cowl, the other to a 1/4" hose to the vacuum tree on the back of the intake for full manifold vacuum. The hoses from the cowl are color coded, see the attached vacuum diagram. The purple cowl hose goes to the valve in the heater hose, to shut off the hot water supply when the temp selector is in the "cold" range.

Awesome thanks for the info!!!