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Great info!

Mine was also non-A/C car, so the backside of my passenger shock tower was empty.

Too bad there's not enough budget to swap-in a Classic Auto Air set-up - it's all electric, no need for the extra vacuum (or underhood clutter).  Not to mention, the HVAC unit is smaller than the factory heater itself (minus A/C).  The controls also utilize adapters to allow the factory cable controls to work with the control module.

But, it ain't cheap.

 
Great info!

Mine was also non-A/C car, so the backside of my passenger shock tower was empty.

Too bad there's not enough budget to swap-in a Classic Auto Air set-up - it's all electric, no need for the extra vacuum (or underhood clutter).  Not to mention, the HVAC unit is smaller than the factory heater itself (minus A/C).  The controls also utilize adapters to allow the factory cable controls to work with the control module.

But, it ain't cheap.
He just had his AC serviced and it works great.  I will have to recharge it when I put it back together but that shouldn't be a big deal. 

I will mount the module on the drivers side and run the wiring in with the factory harness. Im making my own harness for it, so I can really put it anywhere I want.

What color module are you running?? Blue??

I found a red module that is supposedly a hotter tune/spark. They used them in the CA cars for emmissions.

 
Haven't used a Duraspark module in many years, but when I did, I used either the blue or the red grommet from Motorcraft or a top quality aftermarket like Standard. Be sure to hook up the start-retard function, helps with cranking and eases the load on the starter motor.

Found this write-up in another site:

"Red - Duraspark I (California cars 1977, California 302 V8 only, 1978-1979)higher output, considered the module to use back in the '70s and '80s. Does

not employ a balast resistor. Senses current flow through the coil & adjusts

dwell for maximum spark intensity.

Green - early solid state ignition (pre-1977) similar to Duraspark II, but

never popular for retrofitting, probably because the Duraspark I was

superior.

Blue - Duraspark II (49 state 1977, 50 state 1978 and later)

Yellow - Duraspark II with "dual mode" (except 1981)

White - Duraspark II with "cranking retard"

Brown - Duraspark III for computer controlled cars.

Yellow - durapsark III (1981) has an extra connector for altitude compensation on early computer models.

In 1974, Ford/Mercury began to use breakerless ignition systems. The first of these electronic ignition systems was originally just referred to as the breakerless ignition system, but later, in 1977, it became known as Duraspark. The Duraspark I system, and the next version, Duraspark II were nearly identical in operation, and virtually identical in appearance. The Duraspark I uses a special control module which senses current flow through the ignition coil and adjusts the coil for maximum spark intensity. If the Duraspark I module senses that the ignition is ON, but the distributor shaft is not turning, the current to the coil is turned OFF by the module.

The Duraspark II system does not have this feature. The coil is energized for the full amount of time that the ignition switch is ON. Keep this in mind when servicing the Duraspark II system, as the ignition system could inadvertently fire while performing ignition system services (such as distributor cap removal) while the ignition is ON. All Duraspark II systems are easily identified by having a two-piece, flat topped distributor cap.

Duraspark I was discontinued after the 1981 model year.

In 1980, the new Duraspark III system was introduced. This version is based on the previous systems, but the input signal is controlled by the EEC system, rather than as function of engine timing and distributor armature position. The distributor, rotor, cap, and control module are unique to this system; the spark plugs and plug wires are the same as those used with the Duraspark II system. Although the Duraspark II and III control modules are similar in appearance, they cannot be interchanged.

Some 1978 and later engines use a special Duraspark Dual Mode ignition control module. This module is equipped with an altitude sensor, and an economy modulator. This module, when combined with the additional switches and sensor, varies the base engine timing according to altitude and engine load conditions. Duraspark Dual Mode ignition control modules can be identified by the three wiring harnesses emerging from the control module.

Some 1981 and later Duraspark II systems used with the 5.0L engine are quipped with a Universal Ignition Module (UIM) which includes a run/retard function. The operation of the module is basically the same as the Duraspark Dual Mode module.
 
Haven't used a Duraspark module in many years, but when I did, I used either the blue or the red grommet from Motorcraft or a top quality aftermarket like Standard. Be sure to hook up the start-retard function, helps with cranking and eases the load on the starter motor.

Found this write-up in another site:

"Red - Duraspark I (California cars 1977, California 302 V8 only, 1978-1979)

higher output, considered the module to use back in the '70s and '80s. Does

not employ a balast resistor. Senses current flow through the coil & adjusts

dwell for maximum spark intensity.

Green - early solid state ignition (pre-1977) similar to Duraspark II, but

never popular for retrofitting, probably because the Duraspark I was

superior.

Blue - Duraspark II (49 state 1977, 50 state 1978 and later)

Yellow - Duraspark II with "dual mode" (except 1981)

White - Duraspark II with "cranking retard"

Brown - Duraspark III for computer controlled cars.

Yellow - durapsark III (1981) has an extra connector for altitude compensation on early computer models.

In 1974, Ford/Mercury began to use breakerless ignition systems. The first of these electronic ignition systems was originally just referred to as the breakerless ignition system, but later, in 1977, it became known as Duraspark. The Duraspark I system, and the next version, Duraspark II were nearly identical in operation, and virtually identical in appearance. The Duraspark I uses a special control module which senses current flow through the ignition coil and adjusts the coil for maximum spark intensity. If the Duraspark I module senses that the ignition is ON, but the distributor shaft is not turning, the current to the coil is turned OFF by the module.

The Duraspark II system does not have this feature. The coil is energized for the full amount of time that the ignition switch is ON. Keep this in mind when servicing the Duraspark II system, as the ignition system could inadvertently fire while performing ignition system services (such as distributor cap removal) while the ignition is ON. All Duraspark II systems are easily identified by having a two-piece, flat topped distributor cap.

Duraspark I was discontinued after the 1981 model year.

In 1980, the new Duraspark III system was introduced. This version is based on the previous systems, but the input signal is controlled by the EEC system, rather than as function of engine timing and distributor armature position. The distributor, rotor, cap, and control module are unique to this system; the spark plugs and plug wires are the same as those used with the Duraspark II system. Although the Duraspark II and III control modules are similar in appearance, they cannot be interchanged.

Some 1978 and later engines use a special Duraspark Dual Mode ignition control module. This module is equipped with an altitude sensor, and an economy modulator. This module, when combined with the additional switches and sensor, varies the base engine timing according to altitude and engine load conditions. Duraspark Dual Mode ignition control modules can be identified by the three wiring harnesses emerging from the control module.

Some 1981 and later Duraspark II systems used with the 5.0L engine are quipped with a Universal Ignition Module (UIM) which includes a run/retard function. The operation of the module is basically the same as the Duraspark Dual Mode module.
One of the same articles I read.  I have run the duraspark on a few on my cars. Had one on my mustang years ago with the 302.  Also had one in my Bronco II that I swapped the 302 into. And few other f150s. Really easy to wire and bullit proof.

 
I have a Blue Grommet box.

I also used the NPD harness, but it's based on the "Mustang Steve wiring" diagram: https://www.mustangsteve.com/conversion.html/

 
Ok why did my text show up blue after I uploaded the picture?? Cant' seem to figure that one out.
I thought it was just that cold up in Canada right now :D :D :D

 
Got a little done on the car today.  Tried to get the exhaust manifolds off but ended up breaking a few bolts! So I ended up just pulling the motor. Got the manifolds off easy after that. Got broken bolts out. Cleaned intake area up and got new intake on. Found that the clutch was about toast. And flywheel had damaged teeth. So I will see about replacing those. Any suggestions on a clutch?? Here’s a link to rockauto. 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1971,mustang,5.8l+351cid+v8,1132692,transmission-manual,clutch+kit,1993

Hopefully get some more done tomorrow.  Like to get motor painted and some of the brackets. 















 
Ok why did my text show up blue after I uploaded the picture?? Cant' seem to figure that one out.
I thought it was just that cold up in Canada right now :D :D :D
Ha ha Don. You're not that far away, so we get similar weather a lot of the time. But you're right, it was bloody cold here for a few days then warmed up to 50f and rain. Getting colder again, but no, I don't think the cold was the reason for my post to turn blue!!

Geoff.

 
turtle5353.

What did I say "the further I go ahead, the behinder I get" or something like that.

Snowball effect is another term that comes to mind. Looks like that motor is overdue for a rebuild or at least a major service. Looks like a can of worms to me.

I'm running the Center Force II clutch. It's a bit heavy, but I've had no issues with it. I did rebuild my pedal bracket and installed Mustang Steve's ball bearing clutch shaft kit, which took a big load off pedal pressure. I also installed bronze bushings at the other linkage connections. Where do you stop though?

Geoff.

 
Got some more done on the motor yesterday. All the brackets and pieces got glass bead blasted. Few coats of paint on black parts and the other brackets got powder coated with cast color. Motor got shot with duplicolor dark ford blue. Took a lot of cleaning but it’s turning out pretty decent. 























 
Looking pretty nice there.

One word of caution, do not paint the flex blades. If you did then wipe them off. Better yet toss that fan and put a clutch fan or solid blade fan on.

I used to work where they were made and I've seen the damage they can do WHEN they blow up. By now, there could possibly be stress cracks in the blades that you will not see with the naked eye. Those things are just plain dangerous!

Just my thought on that, but do as you wish. 

Geoff.

 
Looking pretty nice there.

One word of caution, do not paint the flex blades. If you did then wipe them off. Better yet toss that fan and put a clutch fan or solid blade fan on.

I used to work where they were made and I've seen the damage they can do WHEN they blow up. By now, there could possibly be stress cracks in the blades that you will not see with the naked eye. Those things are just plain dangerous!

Just my thought on that, but do as you wish. 

Geoff.
+1 to the flex fan. I hate those noisy things....

 
Not too much more progress. But did get some more parts cleaned and painted. Installed the new duraspark dizzy and coil.  My slop gray is a little light, may try to find something else a touch darker. Hopefully start on the battery apron in the next couple days and get the engine bay prepped and painted. Also I am ordering a ring gear for the flywheel and see how that goes.  Cant be that hard to replace and its a hell of a lot cheaper than a new flywheel.











 
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@turtle5353

I see you powder coated in your oven (350-400F range I guess). What kind of powder did you use for this?

Also could you describe the tools you've used for this? How did you charged the parts, spray the powder etc...

Lots of new finishes are avail these days like the ones bellow, but I have no idea about what makes a good powder from another one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gloss-PEARL-MOUSE-GRAY-Powder-Coating-Paint-1Lb-0-45kg/282243131235?hash=item41b7006763:g:778AAOSwvg9XXF9X:rk:27:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Candy-Powder-Coating-Paint-12-Show-Quality-Transparent-Colors-to-Choose-from/231653697010?hash=item35efa2e5f2:g:eek:AoAAOSw9N1VzhXe:rk:3:pf:0&var=530879648539

If you could enlighten me (us) on this, that would be great...

 
Kevin, one very minor 'detail' is to paint the vacuum motor on the air cleaner snorkel 'Cadmium' Ford used a silvery cadmium at that time. I worked were they were made by the million. Chrysler were all dichromate. I made hundreds of prototype vacuum motors over the years and now wish I'd scooped a box or two of parts!! It's ridiculous what vendors are asking for them now and I don't believe you'll find the cadmium, only dichromate.

The car is going to look awesome when done. Your customer will be very happy for sure and appreciate the work you have done.

Geoff.

 
@turtle5353

I see you powder coated in your oven (350-400F range I guess). What kind of powder did you use for this?

Also could you describe the tools you've used for this? How did you charged the parts, spray the powder etc...

Lots of new finishes are avail these days like the ones bellow, but I have no idea about what makes a good powder from another one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gloss-PEARL-MOUSE-GRAY-Powder-Coating-Paint-1Lb-0-45kg/282243131235?hash=item41b7006763:g:778AAOSwvg9XXF9X:rk:27:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Candy-Powder-Coating-Paint-12-Show-Quality-Transparent-Colors-to-Choose-from/231653697010?hash=item35efa2e5f2:g:eek:AoAAOSw9N1VzhXe:rk:3:pf:0&var=530879648539

If you could enlighten me (us) on this, that would be great...
Fabrice,

I got my gun and starter kit from eastwood. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-original-diy-powder-coating-gun-starter-kit.html

It works very well for the price!! And it comes with some colors to get you started and supplies.  The main thing is that the metal has to be CLEAN!!!! Spotless bare metal.  I have access to an industrial glass bead blaster at work and it does the job GREAT! After it comes out of the blaster I spray it off with brakeclean, then before I shoot it I wipe it down again with wax and grease remover and handle the parts wearing latex gloves. I preheat the oven to 450. Hang all my parts on the rack and make sure they fit in oven before I shoot them.  Also I preheat the parts in the oven for 10-15 min before shooting. Once they are preheated, I shoot a nice thick coat of powder on them. The gun has a separate button you hold while you spray the powder that puts an electrical charge throughout the parts. You cant put too much on, you want to completely coat them. I usually make a box lined with aluminum foil to catch the excess powder to reuse. Put the coated parts in the oven at 450 for a few minutes till you see the powder start to flow, then you turn oven down to 400 and bake for 20-30 min. You can stop at that point but, I like to put 2 coats on. So while it is still hot I pull the parts out and recoat them a 2nd time. Put in the oven again and repeat times and temps.  This usually makes sure you get all the nooks and crannies of the parts.

I usually buy my powder off of eastwood, but their shipping times have been horrible!!! I started buying some powder off ebay, it was Sherwin Williams brand and it flows out REALLY NICE!!! Its a little more expensive but really nice.  

This kit is nice if you have a spare oven in your garage. I got mine given to me free so it works great. DO NOT use the wife's oven!!! This puts off some fumes and you don't want to eat anything out of that oven afterwards.

Takes a little longer than your standard spray painting, but the pieces are much more chip resistant, chemical resistant, and rust resistant!! I can only do pieces that can fit in a standard house oven, but it works for me.  I even clearcoated my intake on my care with satin clear, and it looks great still. Doesn't yellow like spray clear can when exposed to gas and other chemicals.

Let me know if you have any other questions!  I have been doing it a couple years. I'm sure there are things others do different but this works for me!

 
thx for the details Kevin.

I got enough "mess" in my garage atm (busy with electroplating), but I'd love to try this at some point.

For not too big steering/suspension/brakes components, powder coating is very attractive.

Couple of quick questions tho:

[...while you spray the powder that puts an electrical charge throughout the parts. You cant put too much on, you want to completely coat them.]

You ment too much powder or current? I guess powder. What would then happen, if you did?

Once you have sprayed, how's the powder holding? I mean a little shock, wind and it all falls down or its fairly "sticking" to the surface?

You say you can apply multiple times, how does the new layers stick? Is the powder conductive? As if not, how does the circuit works if the coating builds up and isolate the part?

Or is it that you apply the new coats while it's still bits hot and its sticky?

 
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