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MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)


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  • 3 weeks later...

Some time back I posted about my 6x9 speaker enclosures. I bought the car with these enclosures and after replacing the old Pioneer speakers with a new pair of Kickers I was disappointed with the sound of the bass. I have used these speakers in the past so I knew they have the pop I wanted. The enclosures were completely closed, so what I did is to port them. I purchased a 1.75" OD (1 5/8" ID) polycarbonate tube from Amazon to do the trick. What I like of this tube is that while it's tough, it's also thin. I used one of the many vent port calculators in the internet to get an idea of diameter/length of the tube. My goal was to make the longest port tube I could, which ended up being 11.5" long. You have to locate the end of the tube at least one diameter from the internal wall of the enclosure. In my case I let the tube protrude 3/4" out of the enclosure, which gave me 11.5". According to the calculator for the volume of my enclosure (minus the approximate volume of the tube and speaker), that diameter and length gave me a frequency of about 50Hz, which is not bad.

Well, the final result is amazing. The bass is now alive!! It was so worth it. I am satisfied with the sound so no need to get a subwoofer or anything more fancy.

 

20170519_083744.jpg

Don't get fooled by the Pioneer grill. I left it there so it looks "vintage". The speaker is a 6x9 Kicker.

 

 

 

Links:

Tubes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OMHJJO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Vent port calculator: http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com/HowTo-1Woofer-Box-CAL%20Port%20lenth%201.htm

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 1 month later...

Changed the ignition switch last week. I am having an intermittent power failure that I have not been able to figure out. It happens seldom but it is frustrating. 

 

Thanks to Midlife for all his help!

 

The car starts and works with no problem, but once in a while I go to start the engine and the starter clicks once and it doesn't turn. After that I will lose power to everything in the car for a few seconds/minutes. Then the power will come back and the car would start without an issue, unless the problem manifests itself again. Only three times it happened back to back. The last time it happened it was even stranger. The dome light was able to be turned on during this time, but by turning the switch to ON or ACC the dome light will turn off.

 

I don't know for sure if it is the ignition switch, but changed it just in case. The ignition switch has the capability to turn off all the power. Not all the symptoms point to the switch but it is a starting point. I have already checked ground, wiring and all connections. All looks good. I am carrying a multimeter in the car just in case it happens again I can diagnose.

 

Something that happened is that I bought the ignition switch from CJPony. They sent me one with the wires reversed at the connector, and with wires that were much longer. Did not match their pictures at all. I ended up buying Standard Motor' model US67 from Amazon. It worked well. CJP responded to my complaint quickly and they refunded my expenses after showing pictures of the mismatch.

 

I think I may have to readjust the ignition switch. After I start the car and I let go the switch, I don't get power to the accessories until I rotate the ignition back just a touch.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I added turndown exhaust tips to the cutouts. These are QTP's 11250, which I painted with hi-temp black. The cutouts are from last year, they are from BadlanzHPE.

They were probably not needed, but I wanted to keep the exhaust off the floors.

 

 

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20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 4 weeks later...

Changed the ignition switch last week. I am having an intermittent power failure that I have not been able to figure out. It happens seldom but it is frustrating. 

 

Thanks to Midlife for all his help!

 

The car starts and works with no problem, but once in a while I go to start the engine and the starter clicks once and it doesn't turn. After that I will lose power to everything in the car for a few seconds/minutes. Then the power will come back and the car would start without an issue, unless the problem manifests itself again. Only three times it happened back to back. The last time it happened it was even stranger. The dome light was able to be turned on during this time, but by turning the switch to ON or ACC the dome light will turn off.

 

I don't know for sure if it is the ignition switch, but changed it just in case. The ignition switch has the capability to turn off all the power. Not all the symptoms point to the switch but it is a starting point. I have already checked ground, wiring and all connections. All looks good. I am carrying a multimeter in the car just in case it happens again I can diagnose.

 

Something that happened is that I bought the ignition switch from CJPony. They sent me one with the wires reversed at the connector, and with wires that were much longer. Did not match their pictures at all. I ended up buying Standard Motor' model US67 from Amazon. It worked well. CJP responded to my complaint quickly and they refunded my expenses after showing pictures of the mismatch.

 

I think I may have to readjust the ignition switch. After I start the car and I let go the switch, I don't get power to the accessories until I rotate the ignition back just a touch.

 

After I changed the ignition switch I started having issues that after the engine started I did not have power to the instrument panel or radio. I figured that if you turn the key back a little by hand, the power would come back. I adjusted the ignition switch position and it got better, but not as it used to be. Then I adjusted the switch further more to a point where the gear in the switch cylinder jumped a tooth. I tried many different adjustments and couldn't find a sweet spot where the switch will spring back correctly and the gear won't jump the tooth. After more investigation I figured out that the return spring built into the new ignition switch is not as strong as the original switch. It really upsets me that they can't replicate a part correctly.

So, long story short, a trip to the hardware store landed me a conical spring and couple washers. I added the spring and washers where the rod exits the ignition switch. The spring is compressed between the housing of the switch and the hook of the rod coming from the ignition cylinder. I had to cut the spring so it fits. I think this fixed the issue. Now, after I start the engine, the switch returns to the appropriate position. It's not a concourse solution, but it works, and no one can see it.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 1 month later...

Done a few things in the front suspension: added roller perches and modified strut rods from Pacific Thunder Performance.

Installed Street Fire (MSD) CD ignition: huge different at idle and acceleration. I had to retune my EFI. A lot less gasoline is now needed to start and during acceleration.

Completed installation of TMI seat covers.

And I can't remember all the so many little things I have been doing.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Installed this back up camera:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M260I3Z/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: the link is not working anymore. The camera is an AUTOVOX T1400W

 

Good overall and easy installation. Did not have to drill a hole or cut any wires. The only issue is that the mirror vibrates more than I would prefer. I am working on trying to improve this issue.

Some may not like the look of the double mirror, but you can't really notice unless you look from the side. Most people won't even notice.

 

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Edit: see update here https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-muscletang-mod-project-thread-1971-m-mach-1?pid=348034#pid348034

This model with the mirror that attaches over the original did not work for me.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 3 weeks later...

This week I am starting my long awaited project to drastically increase the performance of my Mach 1. I will be stroking the engine to 408 and installing a TKO600. The stroker kit will come to TMayer. He will also perform any block machining and head assembly. I am keeping my good old iron 4V heads. Cam has not been yet selected but it will be some type of hydraulic roller. For the TKO600 I am planing on the Modern Driveline kit. I will try to keep up to date with posting news and pictures about the project. In the mean time while the engine is out several things will happen: new intermediate brake line, new brake booster, fixing rust on battery apron, fixing rust on cowl. With the new engine, a new radiator, new distributor, new steering pump (Saginaw conversion since my newly rebuilt broke), new hoses, new A/C condenser hose, and many others.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I am starting by draining the transmission fluid. Since I have a scissors lift I had to be a bit creative since I am not able to fit a pan underneath due to the lift. I basically took a long box and cut it to act as a big funnel. I covered the box in plastic wrap to allow the fluid to drain down instead of being absorbed. All for $0.

 

20170914_234108.jpg

 

20170914_234119.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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You are staying busy for sure.

When you do the inner fender under the battery you will need to get a new reinforcement that goes under the battery for the battery box bolts. I got one off eBay last year that was a perfect copy and great repo. I do not know if they are still on there or not. The repo inner does not have the reinforcement or did not in past. I am sure you know to wash that area with baking soda to kill any acid still there before prep for paint.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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You are staying busy for sure.

When you do the inner fender under the battery you will need to get a new reinforcement that goes under the battery for the battery box bolts. I got one off eBay last year that was a perfect copy and great repo. I do not know if they are still on there or not. The repo inner does not have the reinforcement or did not in past. I am sure you know to wash that area with baking soda to kill any acid still there before prep for paint.

 

Thanks David. I need to see in what condition mine is. Would you have a link or picture of the reinforcement?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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You are staying busy for sure.

When you do the inner fender under the battery you will need to get a new reinforcement that goes under the battery for the battery box bolts. I got one off eBay last year that was a perfect copy and great repo. I do not know if they are still on there or not. The repo inner does not have the reinforcement or did not in past. I am sure you know to wash that area with baking soda to kill any acid still there before prep for paint.

 

Thanks David. I need to see in what condition mine is. Would you have a link or picture of the reinforcement?

I went back and found when I posted the link to them on eBay here it is. Did not check to see there were more. Wish I had got two when I ordered.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-Ford-Mustang-Cinnamon-/351327287911?forcerrptr=true&hash=item51ccbcfa67&item=351327287911&pt=US_Cars_Trucks&nma=true&si=qN7yVrAZIQx7d8e3PyrNUwO5NQs%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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You are staying busy for sure.

When you do the inner fender under the battery you will need to get a new reinforcement that goes under the battery for the battery box bolts. I got one off eBay last year that was a perfect copy and great repo. I do not know if they are still on there or not. The repo inner does not have the reinforcement or did not in past. I am sure you know to wash that area with baking soda to kill any acid still there before prep for paint.

 

Thanks David. I need to see in what condition mine is. Would you have a link or picture of the reinforcement?

 

More power to everyone doing extensive restorations. I did the same on a 1969 GT. I recently bought a 1971 M-code Mach 1 that is 99% rust free and with original paint and interior. I have taken the interior out to check for rust and found none, and I have used a bore scope to check the inside of "frame" members and also found no rust. I don't know how it survived 47 years in the Maryland/Virginia area in this condition. I plan to keep the body mostly unrestored but fix any mechanical and electrical problems that crop up.

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Last night I made some progress after a few days of being under the weather.

Drained the radiator, removed radiator hoses, disconnected trans cooling lines but will leave laying in there until I remove the engine, removed drive shaft, disconnected all the wires, hoses and links connected to the transmission. Now that I have all disconnected from the transmission I am leaning towards removing the transmission first. Looks like a very easy process to do from under the car. That will save me from removing the headers. I would like to keep the headers in the car when I remove/install the engine. That should also reduce the risk of banging the transmisión against the tunnel.

 

A question, do I have to support the rear of the engine in any way after the transmission is removed?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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OK. So here is my take. When I did my FMX to T5 swap I left the engine in the car and pulled the trans from under the car. It was not an easy task as I did not have a lift or trans jack. It wasn't horrible but when I did my engine rebuild I pulled the engine and trans as one unit and put it back in the car the same way. I disconnected the headers at the collectors and at the heads and fished them out first. It wasn't too bad and the engine and trans come out as one unit pretty easy and did not bang on the tunnel.

 

When I pulled just the trans the motor did sit ok on its own but I did block it for safety sake anyhow.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Continued today disassembling the front of the engine, fan, and radiator. There is a lot of room between the engine and the rad support!

 

I was able to better look at my front crossmember. I know it had some kind of bend because I had some issues with the strut rods. From the top I can clearly see how is bend. This car at some point was involved in an accident. The radiator support looks also fixed. The front frame rail in the passenger side also shows an indentation on the inner half right where the crossmember is welded. Now I am wondering, if I should remove the front crossmember and weld a new one. The Dynacorn crossmember goes for $300+. I wonder if it would be worth it, and I wonder how good is the repro. The story repeats, one thing always leads to the other......

 

20170920_231806.jpg

 

20170920_231855.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Continued today disassembling the front of the engine, fan, and radiator. There is a lot of room between the engine and the rad support!

 

I was able to better look at my front crossmember. I know it had some kind of bend because I had some issues with the strut rods. From the top I can clearly see how is bend. This car at some point was involved in an accident. The radiator support looks also fixed. The front frame rail in the passenger side also shows an indentation on the inner half right where the crossmember is welded. Now I am wondering, if I should remove the front crossmember and weld a new one. The Dynacorn crossmember goes for $300+. I wonder if it would be worth it, and I wonder how good is the repro. The story repeats, one thing always leads to the other......

 

20170920_231806.jpg

 

20170920_231855.jpg

 

Mine is the same way only a lot worse. Mine is pushed up and back and is cracked. I welded up the crack and added some bracing. Not a permanent fix but good enough for now.

My plan for mine is to replace it with the dynacorn repop when im ready to restore my car again. probably a couple years from now.  But before you replace it, I would take it to a frame shop and have everything checked and tweaked back into shape. Yours may not need replaced if its not that bad, mine will definitely need replaced. You will need to have the frame all nice and straight before you cut anything out. I would also weld in a temp. brace to keep the frame rails from moving when you cut out the old one. Cutting it out and welding in a new one looks pretty straight forward with the engine out of the way.

I will also be replacing my motor crossmember....... whoever owned my car before me had to be related to Bo and Luke Duke!!

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Continued today disassembling the front of the engine, fan, and radiator. There is a lot of room between the engine and the rad support!

 

I was able to better look at my front crossmember. I know it had some kind of bend because I had some issues with the strut rods. From the top I can clearly see how is bend. This car at some point was involved in an accident. The radiator support looks also fixed. The front frame rail in the passenger side also shows an indentation on the inner half right where the crossmember is welded. Now I am wondering, if I should remove the front crossmember and weld a new one. The Dynacorn crossmember goes for $300+. I wonder if it would be worth it, and I wonder how good is the repro. The story repeats, one thing always leads to the other......

 

 

 

 

Mine is the same way only a lot worse. Mine is pushed up and back and is cracked. I welded up the crack and added some bracing. Not a permanent fix but good enough for now.

My plan for mine is to replace it with the dynacorn repop when im ready to restore my car again. probably a couple years from now.  But before you replace it, I would take it to a frame shop and have everything checked and tweaked back into shape. Yours may not need replaced if its not that bad, mine will definitely need replaced. You will need to have the frame all nice and straight before you cut anything out. I would also weld in a temp. brace to keep the frame rails from moving when you cut out the old one. Cutting it out and welding in a new one looks pretty straight forward with the engine out of the way.

I will also be replacing my motor crossmember....... whoever owned my car before me had to be related to Bo and Luke Duke!!

 

I think the best for me is to replace the front crossmember while the engine is out. It looks fairly easy. I ordered the Dynacorn one so I hope the reproduction is decent. Since I am only replacing the front crossmember I wonder if I still need to brace it. I had already measured the squareness of the frame when I did my floors and all looked good at that time.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I would still brace it. You don't want to cut it out and have anything spring. Cheap easy insurance to weld in a brace or two out of some scrap or just buy some angle iron or square tubing.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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I have to agree with Kevin. If the car was hit hard enough to do that damage you need to take to frame shop and get it right before you start on it.

There will be stress in the under body from the accident and when you do cut the member out things will move for sure so do the bracing.

I was working on a Chevy Nova 1974 model. Putting a clutch in and when I unbolted the crossmember the two frame rails went crazy and move over an inch. I had to use a huge bar clamp to pull them back in place to put the cross member back in. She had ran into ditch and minor bend to car but the frame was twisted.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I have to agree with Kevin. If the car was hit hard enough to do that damage you need to take to frame shop and get it right before you start on it.

There will be stress in the under body from the accident and when you do cut the member out things will move for sure so do the bracing.

I was working on a Chevy Nova 1974 model. Putting a clutch in and when I unbolted the crossmember the two frame rails went crazy and move over an inch. I had to use a huge bar clamp to pull them back in place to put the cross member back in. She had ran into ditch and minor bend to car but the frame was twisted.

 

Will any of you guys have the dimension from the front of the engine crossmember to the rear of the front crossmember? Also, the diagonal dimensions between the two crossmembers? I have the document with chassis dimensions, but I don't see how it can help me locate the front crossmember.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Last night I removed the headers bolts and the steering pump.

 

All I have left is the A/C compressor. I didn't think much about it before, but how do I safely remove the A/C refrigerant?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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You don't. Hang the compressor and lines on the shock tower and work around it.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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