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351 Cleveland thermostat restrictor


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http://www.ebay.com/usr/neonfiddler?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754

 

Go to this Ebay site. I have no affiliation with this man, other than I purchased the brass washer, a 180° & 195° thermostat from him. Now listen......I testify with my reputation on the line, that these are quality, better than new. The brass washer is a higher quality, more finely machined piece, period. The skirt, is machined and pressed onto the correct robertshaw thermostat. This skirt is thicker than stock material and is much higher quality than the others available on Amazon and at Napa, I know because I have the Amazon ones and the Napa ones on my shelf in my shop. I spent big bucks on my engine and I obsessed over this issue a year ago. I bought all of them and tested them.

 

This guy on Ebay is a machinist and a Pantera enthusiast but he does not believe in the aluminum blocking plate. Either do I. (I also have one of these plates and contemplated using it) Get this next concept clear in your mind: It is not a restrictor plate, it is a bypass washer. A restrictor plate is something altogether different. My Cleveland, with 425 HP runs perfectly using these parts, I currently use the 180°. Again, I have no reason to recommend this guy other than when you have the parts in your hand and you compare them to others, his are of better quality.

 

His washer and thermostat will cost you $100 (last year), now they are around $120. I know it sounds like a rip off but what do you think he should sell them for...his machinist time is worth it for my engine. If it is not worth his time to make them, why would he? He doesn't make runs of millions of these, each one is machined. Go to his site and read. Educate yourself. Don't cheap out.

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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the bypass plate works perfectly fine . if it did not, 50 zillion panteras would not be using it including the president of the pantera club or jerry hall of halls panteras . the original system also works fine when the parts mentioned above are used . the factory parts didn't work well . the prob is not the concept, it is the crappy parts ford used to build the system with.

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http://www.ebay.com/usr/neonfiddler?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754

 

Go to this Ebay site. I have no affiliation with this man, other than I purchased the brass washer, a 180° & 195° thermostat from him. Now listen......I testify with my reputation on the line, that these are quality, better than new. The brass washer is a higher quality, more finely machined piece, period. The skirt, is machined and pressed onto the correct robertshaw thermostat. This skirt is thicker than stock material and is much higher quality than the others available on Amazon and at Napa, I know because I have the Amazon ones and the Napa ones on my shelf in my shop. I spent big bucks on my engine and I obsessed over this issue a year ago. I bought all of them and tested them.

 

This guy on Ebay is a machinist and a Pantera enthusiast but he does not believe in the aluminum blocking plate. Either do I. (I also have one of these plates and contemplated using it) Get this next concept clear in your mind: It is not a restrictor plate, it is a bypass washer. A restrictor plate is something altogether different. My Cleveland, with 425 HP runs perfectly using these parts, I currently use the 180°. Again, I have no reason to recommend this guy other than when you have the parts in your hand and you compare them to others, his are of better quality.

 

His washer and thermostat will cost you $100 (last year), now they are around $120. I know it sounds like a rip off but what do you think he should sell them for...his machinist time is worth it for my engine. If it is not worth his time to make them, why would he? He doesn't make runs of millions of these, each one is machined. Go to his site and read. Educate yourself. Don't cheap out.

20150319_165826.thumb.jpg.a6c4bf11adb092590242996bfa747920.jpg

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The quality of the machined skirt is obvious compared to the Amazon and Napa ones.

 

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the bypass plate works perfectly fine . if it did not, 50 zillion panteras would not be using it including the president of the pantera club or jerry hall of halls panteras . the original system also works fine when the parts mentioned above are used . the factory parts didn't work well . the prob is not the concept, it is the crappy parts ford used to build the system with.

 

True, crap parts will cause issues.

 

Panteras have inherent cooling issues with the added coolant path distance.

 

The stock bypass helps the coolant passages through the block warm up EVENLY, and prevents hot pockets that can/will occur without circulation. (aluminum blocking plate)

 

The aluminum blocking plate doesn't allow any coolant circulation through the block until the thermostat opens. This is why it is recommended to drill holes in the thermostat, when using the Al blocking plate. This will give you SOME circulation. (in this case, through the radiator, to the water pump and back to the block)

 

Opening the heater core valve (turning the heat on) will allow circulation from the block (when thermostat is closed), through the heater core, to the water pump and back to the block, just like the bypass does, but you have to turn your heat on.

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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the design is to allow the heads to warm up evenly . this is to prevent them from cracking due to the thin walls in the water jackets.

 

the block off plate has cured many pantera hot running probs in spite of the poor design of the rest of the cooling system.

 

the brass colored thermostat you have also looks like a high flow one and just using a high flow thermostat has helped reduce temps in many cases so its not possible to contribute a hot running cure to the machined brass parts alone.

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the design is to allow the heads to warm up evenly . this is to prevent them from cracking due to the thin walls in the water jackets.

 

the block off plate has cured many pantera hot running probs in spite of the poor design of the rest of the cooling system.

 

the brass colored thermostat you have also looks like a high flow one and just using a high flow thermostat has helped reduce temps in many cases so its not possible to contribute a hot running cure to the machined brass parts alone.

 

Yes, it is the high flow Robertshaw thermostat that the Ebay seller (the machinist) adds his machined skirt to. This high flow design with the skirt is how the Cleveland's cooling system was originally equipped. The others, although they are quite cheaper, are not as refined and it was important to me to have the skirt, of the thermostat, flawlessly mesh with the orifice in the brass bypass washer. When you want something to mesh flawlessly, you go to a machinist AND pay him to do it right.(he's already done it) ***THESE PARTS WILL NOT "CURE"^ HOT RUNNING PROBLEMS IN ALL CLEVELANDS. :shootself: THEY MAY WORK BETTER THAN CRAPPY PARTS THAT MAY NOT MESH TOGETHER WELL***

 

Personally, I have done everything I could in planning and building my engine to assure no overheating. In fact, last summer I was in 2 cruise nights, 95°+ temps on the road, sitting in traffic (parade of hot rods), with my windows up, Classic Auto Air blasting (it was literally cold), for over 2 hours and my temp never rose above 180°. 3 core brass radiator and dual Spal fans with a Painless controller. I too, was amazed.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Spal-30102130-Dual-Extreme-Performance/dp/B003PB9S8G?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

 

http://www.amazon.com/Painless-30140-Dual-Fan-Controller/dp/B003XLE2LQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1458907253&sr=1-1&keywords=painless+30140

 

Well worth it.

 

So, maintaining bypass is part of a system (that needs to be understood) and may not "cure" an overheating problem but you start by doing all the little things right and you'll end up with a more dependable machine.

 

This "brass bypass washer" subject has mucho content on this site written about it. There are strong opinions. People like to defend their point of view. All I'm saying is you'll have a better chance of it working as the engineers intended to, if your parts work together nicely. Get good parts. Pay the $125 for the good washer and thermostat and know you made the best choice for your beloved engine...a small price to pay.

 

If any of you want the Aluminum Pantera blocker plate, I have a brand new one, in the box, from WCCC (who did not invent/make it-they only sell it AND none of the WCCC guys use it in their Clevelands), that I won't be using.

 

Our purpose here is to help others gleen information and make decisions as to how to proceed in their builds. My only intent, is to help, as many here have helped me. Read everything you can and never just listen to one person's opinion. Discern the truth from all the information you gather and proceed how you see fit. (to me that's where the fun is, you get to chose for yourself) Good luck on your builds, keep the passion and do it right or don't waste your time.

 

By the way, respectfully, your last sentence would make more sense with the word "attribute" as opposed to the word "contribute."

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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I remember this thread, but I think I mentioned my results in a different thread shortly after this one ran last September. I got the parts from WCCC and installed the "Pantera Fix," and I have similar results as John - mine warms up to a place right between the "T" and "E" on the Temp gauges, and stays put while its running. ::thumb::

 

The only times I've driven it, were quick trips around the neighborhood, getting to and from the place that did the safety inspection, and stopping off at a friend's house along the way. I don't think I ran the car up to more than 35mph during any of the trips (speedometer cable still not installed), but the temp gauge never budged. Compare that to simply loading/unloading it on/off a trailer to go to a car show, and the temp gauge ran up past "P" just rolling through the parking lot and back onto the trailer (the heater circuit works really well, though ;) ).

 

So far, so good. :cool:

Eric

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For what it is worth:

 

Stant 180 29468 Cleveland specific

Stant 192 29469 Cleveland specific

Stant 180 13468 Cleveland specific - (What I use - 6 bucks and is correct for 351C)

Stant 192 13469 Cleveland specific

Stant 192 S-346-192

Gates 180 33128 Cleveland specific

Gates 192 33129 Cleveland specific

RobertShaw 180 333-180 Cleveland specific

Ford/Motorcraft 180 RT-310 Cleveland specific -

Ford/Motorcraft 192 RT-139 Cleveland specific; 70-73 351C,351CJ, & Boss 351

Ford 180 D7PZ-8575-A Cleveland specific

Napa 180 197 Cleveland specific

 

- Paul of Mo

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Thanks Paul, for capturing all those part numbers - I'm sure it will help someone who might not be ready for the Pantera Mod and just looking to replace their factory-style thermostat. ::thumb::

 

(At least a guy would have a chance at ordering the no-kidding correct thermostat when the guy at the parts store tries to sell them a Windsor thermostat instead... because that's what the computer says :whistling: ).

Eric

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installing electric fans does not make a system more reliable since they can fail . also, since good electric fans flow more air at low speed than a stock fan does, they will cool the engine better at low speeds, so again, you can NOT attribute improved cooling or efficient cooling to the custom made parts as it seems like you are trying to do.

 

Also, i don't know what you mean by saying that none of the west coast cougar guys use the aftermarket bypass, because this is wrong . i was in the west coast cougar club and i used it and i know several other people that used it.

 

there are many things the engineers designed on the cars that are less than ideal for one reason or another, so not everything they did was great just because they were engineers . if everything they did was great, no one would have had problems with the original bypass design working properly because ford would have machined the parts for it instead of stamping them etc.

 

no one would be lowering the upper control arm pivot point to drastically improve steering with ZERO adverse effects.

 

not every single 289 mustang would have overheated if you drove it with the ac on in 110 degree weather.

 

the auto trannys would have always fully engaged the parking pawl when they were put in park instead of sometimes coming out of park allowing the car to roll freely down hills until something stopped it which was often another car or a building.

 

the pinto would not have ever exploded when it was rear ended.

 

the rear door latch on one late model vehicle would not have randomly opened dumping any kids that might have been leaning against it, onto the road.

 

the list of factory flaws is virtually endless.

 

these cars came with bias ply tires but i dont know a single person that uses them other than a concours guy.

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installing electric fans does not make a system more reliable since they can fail . also, since good electric fans flow more air at low speed than a stock fan does, they will cool the engine better at low speeds, so again, you can NOT attribute improved cooling or efficient cooling to the custom made parts as it seems like you are trying to do.

 

Also, i don't know what you mean by saying that none of the west coast cougar guys use the aftermarket bypass, because this is wrong . i was in the west coast cougar club and i used it and i know several other people that used it.

 

there are many things the engineers designed on the cars that are less than ideal for one reason or another, so not everything they did was great just because they were engineers . if everything they did was great, no one would have had problems with the original bypass design working properly because ford would have machined the parts for it instead of stamping them etc.

 

no one would be lowering the upper control arm pivot point to drastically improve steering with ZERO adverse effects.

 

not every single 289 mustang would have overheated if you drove it with the ac on in 110 degree weather.

 

the auto trannys would have always fully engaged the parking pawl when they were put in park instead of sometimes coming out of park allowing the car to roll freely down hills until something stopped it which was often another car or a building.

 

the pinto would not have ever exploded when it was rear ended.

 

the rear door latch on one late model vehicle would not have randomly opened dumping any kids that might have been leaning against it, onto the road.

 

the list of factory flaws is virtually endless.

 

these cars came with bias ply tires but i dont know a single person that uses them other than a concours guy.

 

That's why there is an age old saying " You can always tell an engineer..........., but you can't tell them much"!! Seen THAT too many times where I worked.


I've had no obvious problems with my 351C running a 180 stat and although my parts store gave me a stat listed as for the Cleveland, to be honest, I had no idea that there was the requirement to block off the restrictor hole. This is news to me. As many will know, my engine is currently being rebuilt, so I will now ensure that the correct Cleveland specific thermostat is used..... if I can find one in Canada. To me, this seems to be counter to logical thinking, but what do I know!!

Thanks for bringing this thread to our attention.

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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That's why there is an age old saying " You can always tell an engineer..........., but you can't tell them much"!! Seen THAT too many times where I worked.

 

LOL


I've had no obvious problems with my 351C running a 180 stat and although my parts store gave me a stat listed as for the Cleveland, to be honest, I had no idea that there was the requirement to block off the restrictor hole. This is news to me. As many will know, my engine is currently being rebuilt, so I will now ensure that the correct Cleveland specific thermostat is used..... if I can find one in Canada. To me, this seems to be counter to logical thinking, but what do I know!!

Thanks for bringing this thread to our attention.

Geoff.

 

you only need to block the restrictor hole if you use a windsor stye t stat instead of a cleveland style one . i just fixed a car that would creep up in temp a little bit in traffic ad it had a windsor t stat with the factory bypass plate s i pt the factory cleveland t stat in it and it cured the problem . there are a lot of variables that affect water temp . i have been fixing overheating probs fo 40 years so i have pretty much seen it all and some of it wasn't very pretty.

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So, in summary, the right thing to do is run a Cleveland specific thermostat and there are no issues?

 

The block off device is needed if you divert from the stock setup?

 

:chin:

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So, in summary, the right thing to do is run a Cleveland specific thermostat and there are no issues?

 

The block off device is needed if you divert from the stock setup?

 

:chin:

 

Before someone post a novel - the answer to your question is....................................wait for it.......................................here it comes............. Yep!

 

-Paul of MO

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So, in summary, the right thing to do is run a Cleveland specific thermostat and there are no issues?

 

The block off device is needed if you divert from the stock setup?

 

:chin:

 

Before someone post a novel - the answer to your question is....................................wait for it.......................................here it comes............. Yep!

 

-Paul of MO

 

 

lollerz

 

Thanks for the direct and to the point answer...

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So, in summary, the right thing to do is run a Cleveland specific thermostat and there are no issues?

 

The block off device is needed if you divert from the stock setup?

 

:chin:

 

Before someone post a novel - the answer to your question is....................................wait for it.......................................here it comes............. Yep!

 

-Paul of MO

 

 

lollerz

 

Thanks for the direct and to the point answer...

 

Wait for it.......................... Here it comes.........................I am wrong because..................:whistling:

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That's why there is an age old saying " You can always tell an engineer..........., but you can't tell them much"!! Seen THAT too many times where I worked.

 

LOL


I've had no obvious problems with my 351C running a 180 stat and although my parts store gave me a stat listed as for the Cleveland, to be honest, I had no idea that there was the requirement to block off the restrictor hole. This is news to me. As many will know, my engine is currently being rebuilt, so I will now ensure that the correct Cleveland specific thermostat is used..... if I can find one in Canada. To me, this seems to be counter to logical thinking, but what do I know!!

Thanks for bringing this thread to our attention.

Geoff.

 

you only need to block the restrictor hole if you use a windsor stye t stat instead of a cleveland style one . i just fixed a car that would creep up in temp a little bit in traffic ad it had a windsor t stat with the factory bypass plate s i pt the factory cleveland t stat in it and it cured the problem . there are a lot of variables that affect water temp . i have been fixing overheating probs fo 40 years so i have pretty much seen it all and some of it wasn't very pretty.

 

 

Thanks Barnett468, Now I know what to do.......... buy the right stat!!

As you know, my engine is as stock as I could make it, so as long as I install a stat that was MEANT to be in it, everything should be hunky-dory.

Glad you liked my engineer joke. However it should have read; ...tell HIM much, not them, but what the heck eh!

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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So, in summary, the right thing to do is run a Cleveland specific thermostat and there are no issues?

 

The block off device is needed if you divert from the stock setup?

 

:chin:

 

Before someone post a novel - the answer to your question is....................................wait for it.......................................here it comes............. Yep!

 

-Paul of MO

 

 

:bravo:

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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So, in summary, the right thing to do is run a Cleveland specific thermostat and there are no issues?

 

no, there have been thousands of issues with stock factory ford parts.

 

 

 

The block off device is needed if you divert from the stock setup?

 

Yes but a high flow t stat should also be used.

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For what it is worth:

 

Stant 180 29468 Cleveland specific

Stant 192 29469 Cleveland specific

Stant 180 13468 Cleveland specific - (What I use - 6 bucks and is correct for 351C)

Stant 192 13469 Cleveland specific

Stant 192 S-346-192

Gates 180 33128 Cleveland specific

Gates 192 33129 Cleveland specific

RobertShaw 180 333-180 Cleveland specific

Ford/Motorcraft 180 RT-310 Cleveland specific -

Ford/Motorcraft 192 RT-139 Cleveland specific; 70-73 351C,351CJ, & Boss 351

Ford 180 D7PZ-8575-A Cleveland specific

Napa 180 197 Cleveland specific

 

- Paul of Mo

 

Are any of these PN's the high flow version mentioned in the thread?

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For what it is worth:

 

Stant 180 29468 Cleveland specific

Stant 192 29469 Cleveland specific

Stant 180 13468 Cleveland specific - (What I use - 6 bucks and is correct for 351C)

Stant 192 13469 Cleveland specific

Stant 192 S-346-192

Gates 180 33128 Cleveland specific

Gates 192 33129 Cleveland specific

RobertShaw 180 333-180 Cleveland specific

Ford/Motorcraft 180 RT-310 Cleveland specific -

Ford/Motorcraft 192 RT-139 Cleveland specific; 70-73 351C,351CJ, & Boss 351

Ford 180 D7PZ-8575-A Cleveland specific

Napa 180 197 Cleveland specific

 

- Paul of Mo

 

Are any of these PN's the high flow version mentioned in the thread?

 

I think the robertshaw one is the only specifically mentioned as high flow. I have not used this so I do not know for sure.

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For what it is worth:

 

Stant 180 29468 Cleveland specific

Stant 192 29469 Cleveland specific

Stant 180 13468 Cleveland specific - (What I use - 6 bucks and is correct for 351C)

Stant 192 13469 Cleveland specific

Stant 192 S-346-192

Gates 180 33128 Cleveland specific

Gates 192 33129 Cleveland specific

RobertShaw 180 333-180 Cleveland specific

Ford/Motorcraft 180 RT-310 Cleveland specific -

Ford/Motorcraft 192 RT-139 Cleveland specific; 70-73 351C,351CJ, & Boss 351

Ford 180 D7PZ-8575-A Cleveland specific

Napa 180 197 Cleveland specific

 

- Paul of Mo

 

 

 

Here's two charts that info came from:

 

307676804_351Thermostatsaspringloadedhattype.PNG.15c9eecfc41c95d4b01b889ac3f67092.PNG

1651137870_351Thermostats.PNG.f6adf0943aff316b444a11ea76ffcf0d.PNG


.

ok, unfortunately the block off plate will not compensate for an inadequate cooling system . . if anyone wants to know how to keep their car from overheating when its over 100 degrees, feel free to let me know...also be prepared to spend some cash because you will be buying some parts.

 

one of the things to do to reduce engine temp is to tune your distributor to your particular engine . . if your timing is too low for your engine, it will be more difficult to make it run cool.

 

.

 

True Barnett. Block off plate or brass bypass washer, which ever way you decide to go "...will not compensate for an inadequate cooling system." When that person then has an overheating issue, they will blame it on the plate -vs- washer decision when, in truth, it is more likely radiator, water pump, timing, fan shroud sealing...etc.

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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So, in summary, the right thing to do is run a Cleveland specific thermostat and there are no issues?

 

no, there have been thousands of issues with stock factory ford parts.

 

 

 

The block off device is needed if you divert from the stock setup?

 

Yes but a high flow t stat should also be used.

 

 

...or buy/use the parts mentioned above (from the machinist on Ebay) since they are not the "stock factory ford parts..." They are better quality. They will not CURE your cooling problems, (I never stated/implied they would) they will just work better (potentially) at sealing the bypass (skirt of the bypass sealing off the hole/orifice in the brass bypass washer) when the thermostat is in the open position.

 

Barnett468's statement "...the original system also works fine when the parts mentioned above (the parts on Ebay, I'm assuming, since this quote was a reply under my links of the parts on Ebay) are used . the factory parts didn't work well . the prob is not the concept, it is the crappy parts ford used to build the system with."

 

The thermostat I listed the link to, sold by the machinist on Ebay, is the original Robertson High Flow thermostat. I'm pretty sure you can't get this High Flow thermostat with the copper skirt attached any longer. It is not made. Similar "skirted" NON-High Flow stats can be acquired from Amazon and Napa. They MAY/COULD introduce an additional variable, since they are only similar. I have suggested and I personally use, the parts sold by the Ebay machinist in an attempt to use the "concept"^ but improve upon the "crappy parts ford used."^


the design is to allow the heads to warm up evenly . this is to prevent them from cracking due to the thin walls in the water jackets.

 

the block off plate has cured many pantera hot running probs in spite of the poor design of the rest of the cooling system.

 

the brass colored thermostat you have also looks like a high flow one and just using a high flow thermostat has helped reduce temps in many cases so its not possible to contribute a hot running cure to the machined brass parts alone.

 

Yes, it is the high flow Robertshaw thermostat that the Ebay seller (the machinist) adds his machined skirt to. This high flow design with the skirt is how the Cleveland's cooling system was originally equipped. The others, although they are quite cheaper, are not as refined and it was important to me to have the skirt, of the thermostat, flawlessly mesh with the orifice in the brass bypass washer. When you want something to mesh flawlessly, you go to a machinist AND pay him to do it right.(he's already done it) ***THESE PARTS WILL NOT "CURE"^ HOT RUNNING PROBLEMS IN ALL CLEVELANDS. :shootself: THEY MAY WORK BETTER THAN CRAPPY PARTS THAT MAY NOT MESH TOGETHER WELL***

 

Personally, I have done everything I could in planning and building my engine to assure no overheating. In fact, last summer I was in 2 cruise nights, 95°+ temps on the road, sitting in traffic (parade of hot rods), with my windows up, Classic Auto Air blasting (it was literally cold), for over 2 hours and my temp never rose above 180°. 3 core brass radiator and dual Spal fans with a Painless controller. I too, was amazed.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Spal-30102130-Dual-Extreme-Performance/dp/B003PB9S8G?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

 

http://www.amazon.com/Painless-30140-Dual-Fan-Controller/dp/B003XLE2LQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1458907253&sr=1-1&keywords=painless+30140

 

Well worth it.

 

So, maintaining bypass is part of a system (that needs to be understood) and may not "cure" an overheating problem but you start by doing all the little things right and you'll end up with a more dependable machine. ***Yes, an electric fan can malfunction...but so can a fan belt or a water pump belt. :shootself: ***

 

This "brass bypass washer" subject has mucho content on this site written about it. There are strong opinions. People like to defend their point of view. All I'm saying is you'll have a better chance of it working as the engineers intended to, if your parts work together nicely. Get good parts. Pay the $125 for the good washer and thermostat and know you made the best choice for your beloved engine...a small price to pay.

 

If any of you want the Aluminum Pantera blocker plate, I have a brand new one, in the box, from WCCC (who did not invent/make it-they only sell it AND none of the WCCC guys use it in their Clevelands), that I won't be using.

 

Our purpose here is to help others gleen information and make decisions as to how to proceed in their builds. My only intent, is to help, as many here have helped me. Read everything you can and never just listen to one person's opinion. Discern the truth from all the information you gather and proceed how you see fit. (to me that's where the fun is, you get to chose for yourself) Good luck on your builds, keep the passion and do it right or don't waste your time.

 

By the way, respectfully, your last sentence would make more sense with the word "attribute" as opposed to the word "contribute."


For what it is worth:

 

Stant 180 29468 Cleveland specific

Stant 192 29469 Cleveland specific

Stant 180 13468 Cleveland specific - (What I use - 6 bucks and is correct for 351C)

Stant 192 13469 Cleveland specific

Stant 192 S-346-192

Gates 180 33128 Cleveland specific

Gates 192 33129 Cleveland specific

RobertShaw 180 333-180 Cleveland specific

Ford/Motorcraft 180 RT-310 Cleveland specific -

Ford/Motorcraft 192 RT-139 Cleveland specific; 70-73 351C,351CJ, & Boss 351

Ford 180 D7PZ-8575-A Cleveland specific

Napa 180 197 Cleveland specific

 

- Paul of Mo

 

Are any of these PN's the high flow version mentioned in the thread?

 

http://www.ebay.com/usr/neonfiddler?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754


So, in summary, the right thing to do is run a Cleveland specific thermostat and there are no issues?

 

The block off device is needed if you divert from the stock setup?

 

:chin:

 

...you have the factory bypass washer in your block, buy this High Flow stat or the non-high flow stats shown in the charts.

 

http://www.ebay.com/usr/neonfiddler?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754


That's why there is an age old saying " You can always tell an engineer..........., but you can't tell them much"!! Seen THAT too many times where I worked.

 

LOL


I've had no obvious problems with my 351C running a 180 stat and although my parts store gave me a stat listed as for the Cleveland, to be honest, I had no idea that there was the requirement to block off the restrictor hole. This is news to me. As many will know, my engine is currently being rebuilt, so I will now ensure that the correct Cleveland specific thermostat is used..... if I can find one in Canada. To me, this seems to be counter to logical thinking, but what do I know!!

Thanks for bringing this thread to our attention.

Geoff.

 

you only need to block the restrictor hole if you use a windsor stye t stat instead of a cleveland style one . i just fixed a car that would creep up in temp a little bit in traffic ad it had a windsor t stat with the factory bypass plate s i pt the factory cleveland t stat in it and it cured the problem . there are a lot of variables that affect water temp . i have been fixing overheating probs fo 40 years so i have pretty much seen it all and some of it wasn't very pretty.

 

 

Thanks Barnett468, Now I know what to do.......... buy the right stat!!

As you know, my engine is as stock as I could make it, so as long as I install a stat that was MEANT to be in it, everything should be hunky-dory.

Glad you liked my engineer joke. However it should have read; ...tell HIM much, not them, but what the heck eh!

 

...so here is the High Flow "stat that was MEANT to be in it..."

 

http://www.ebay.com/usr/neonfiddler?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754

 

or buy the cheap ones at Napa and Amazon, they are similar but not High Flow and the skirt that seals the opening in the stock ford bypass washer is not constructed as well. You will save $50-60 with one of these, that's up to you, obviously. Good luck with it!

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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installing electric fans does not make a system more reliable since they can fail . also, since good electric fans flow more air at low speed than a stock fan does, they will cool the engine better at low speeds, so again, you can NOT attribute improved cooling or efficient cooling to the custom made parts as it seems like you are trying to do.

 

Also, i don't know what you mean by saying that none of the west coast cougar guys use the aftermarket bypass, because this is wrong . i was in the west coast cougar club and i used it and i know several other people that used it.

 

there are many things the engineers designed on the cars that are less than ideal for one reason or another, so not everything they did was great just because they were engineers . if everything they did was great, no one would have had problems with the original bypass design working properly because ford would have machined the parts for it instead of stamping them etc.

 

no one would be lowering the upper control arm pivot point to drastically improve steering with ZERO adverse effects.

 

not every single 289 mustang would have overheated if you drove it with the ac on in 110 degree weather.

 

the auto trannys would have always fully engaged the parking pawl when they were put in park instead of sometimes coming out of park allowing the car to roll freely down hills until something stopped it which was often another car or a building.

 

the pinto would not have ever exploded when it was rear ended.

 

the rear door latch on one late model vehicle would not have randomly opened dumping any kids that might have been leaning against it, onto the road.

 

the list of factory flaws is virtually endless.

 

these cars came with bias ply tires but i dont know a single person that uses them other than a concours guy.

 

 

installing electric fans does not make a system more reliable since they can fail . also, since good electric fans flow more air at low speed than a stock fan does, they will cool the engine better at low speeds, so again, you can NOT attribute improved cooling or efficient cooling to the custom made parts as it seems like you are trying to do.

Electric fans use electricity, yes. Stock fans use belts. Both can break. My electric fans will more reliably cool my engine than my stock fan would, in a wider array of situations than my stock fan did.

Also, i don't know what you mean by saying that none of the west coast cougar guys use the aftermarket bypass, because this is wrong . i was in the west coast cougar club and i used it and i know several other people that used it.

I was speaking of the owner of West Coast Classic Cougar, Inc. WCCC (http://www.westcoastclassiccougarinc.com/index.php) and his staff. The owner told me that "they sell it, they don't know much about it and do not personally use it." Just because they sell it, is not an endorsement of it. They did not invent it, do not manufacture it, do not use it but they will take your money if you want it.

I don't know anything about your "west coast cougar club."

 

Any other misunderstandings you need cleared up?

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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Founded:
July 2010

By:
Webfinity Design

From:
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