Sloppy steering

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Vinnie

Vinnie

Project manager "Project AmsterFoose"
7173 Mustang Supporter Member
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Nov 7, 2013
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Location
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
My Car
1973 Mustang Grande 351C 2V, built on the very last production day (July 6, 1973) for Grande's.
Hi folks,

Tonight I went for a drive and I found that the steering is very sloppy. I can turn the wheel 5-10 degrees without much happening, it gives me hardly any sense of the direction I'm going to drive in when turning...

This made driving a narrow 50mph road with oncoming traffic and trees on the side rather exciting!

I drive a 73 grande with powersteering and I'm wondering what steps I could take to maybe fix this myself. Are there known issues maybe? Parts that need replacing in time?

Thanks,

Vincent

 
Mine is the same. Here is what I have discovered, my springs are sagging, My shocks were completely gone, ball joints are shot, etc. I started by replacing just the shocks and installing a lager front sway bar. Big difference all ready. I already have the parts and will be swapping out upper and lower LCA's (I made stiffener plates for the lower LCA's and welded them up. Also doing new tie rod ends, 1" lowering springs, strut rod bushes, etc. (complete front suspension rebuild). I will go from there and see what that does, the next step will be to tighten steering box gear.

 
Start by checking the rag joint, then steering box, then tie rod ends and center link and idler arm.

It really helps if you have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth so you can see where the slop is.

 
All the mentioned checks are important but let me add a couple of others

Check your tire pressure and alignment-it is amazing how much correcting these will improve the steering.

Anti roll bar bushings and end links are easy to replace, check and replace as necessary.

Nothing is going to make a stock style front end on our series Mustangs feel as crisp as a modern car's suspension, but they can be very good. The power steering is way over assisted and the ratio is rather slow. If you need a new/rebuilt steering box talk to a rebuilder about a fast ratio box (IIRC they are about 12:1 vs stock PS 16:1 ratio)

 
I had that same issue. I replaced tie rods, rag joint, and steering box. After that, the problem was gone. No more slop in the steering. It's a bit of work, but well worth it!

I also agree with Jeff. Check your alignment. I couldn't find anyone around here to do it for me, so I did it myself with the old string method. Worked like a champ.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I will add that my car came with 10 year old BFG TA's with just 5K miles on them. They were hard/brittle. I replaced them in kind and there was a very noticeable improvement in handling/wandering.

 
Ditto on what Don said. It is best if you can get an assistant to rapidly turn the steering wheel left to right 90 degrees or more with the car off, setting on the ground. You visually inspect first, then feel all of the joints to see which ones have slop while the assistant acts like 3 year old pretending to drive. Be aware of pinch points, 10 fingers are best kept on your hands.

Not that I'm against wholesale steering component replacement, but it is also OK to only replace what is worn. Then again I pitched everything I had, bought all new and rebuilt my own steering gear.

 
Thanks for all your replies guys! I'll have a look at the rag joint first. Is that a pain to replace? I read in another thread onhere somewhere about someone doing the same and he had to losen the whole steering column?

On a side note: In the same thread it was mentioned (if I understood correctly) that you can losen something and then adjust the height of the steering wheel and then tighten it again? I wouldn't mind my steering wheel a bit closer you see...

Cheers!

Vincent.

 
Isn't there an adjustment on the steering box?

I had a '69 Cougar with slop in the steering, and on top of the box is a slotted stud with a lockdown nut.

Loosen the lockdown nut, turn the stud clockwise to take out the play, and lock it down again.

 
Yes, some of the slop can be adjusted out of the steering box depending on where the problem is. Do not adjust it with the steering wheel centered, instead turn it about 1/4 turn. The gears wear more at center and if you adjust it there it will be too tight when you turn the steering wheel.

 
Isn't there an adjustment on the steering box?

I had a '69 Cougar with slop in the steering, and on top of the box is a slotted stud with a lockdown nut.

Loosen the lockdown nut, turn the stud clockwise to take out the play, and lock it down again.
Click to expand...
I'll toss my $.02 in on this.

Adjusting this can do harm if not done right. The gear teeth on the sector shaft are tapered, so the more you turn the stud the tighter the fit between the sector shaft and piston. Go too tight and you are going to cause increased wear, because it is binding. With the car running and nearly 1000 psi of fluid pressing on one side or the other of the piston it will work "fine" if adjusted way too tight, but will be on the path to self destruction.

The vehicle should be supported so the front tires are in the air, engine off, steering wheel unlocked. With a single finger on one of the steering wheel spokes you should turn it lock to lock and get an idea of how much effort it takes. After that you can loosten the locknut and try tightening the adjuster in small increments clockwise. After each adjustment turn the wheel lock to lock with a single finger and stop if you feel any increased resistance while turning the wheel lock to lock. Stop and consider backing it off a bit as soon as you can detect increased resistance.

This is just my opinion, others may have alternate methods.

Peter.

 
I'll toss my $.02 in on this.

Adjusting this can do harm if not done right. The gear teeth on the sector shaft are tapered, so the more you turn the stud the tighter the fit between the sector shaft and piston. Go too tight and you are going to cause increased wear, because it is binding. With the car running and nearly 1000 psi of fluid pressing on one side or the other of the piston it will work "fine" if adjusted way too tight, but will be on the path to self destruction.

The vehicle should be supported so the front tires are in the air, engine off, steering wheel unlocked. With a single finger on one of the steering wheel spokes you should turn it lock to lock and get an idea of how much effort it takes. After that you can loosten the locknut and try tightening the adjuster in small increments clockwise. After each adjustment turn the wheel lock to lock with a single finger and stop if you feel any increased resistance while turning the wheel lock to lock. Stop and consider backing it off a bit as soon as you can detect increased resistance.

This is just my opinion, others may have alternate methods.

Peter.
Click to expand...
Agreed!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
that video is awesome, thanks!

apart from the fantastic cougars it explains a lot. the only thing I was surprised about is the part at the end where the man is driving and his steering wheel is constantly going from side to side and it says that it's pretty OK!

anyway, it's given me some good insights. I'll look into other videos as well.

thanks again! :)

 

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