351C-2V Head Removal

Hi Everyone,

I have a 1972 Mustang with a 351C-2v. I have to remove one of the heads to extract a bolt that broke off. I removed the hoses that were in the way, spark plugs and valve covers already. But I'm pretty new when it comes to removing the heads. Is there anything important i should know? Will it come off easily? What should i know when it comes to torquing the head bolts? Any information about the process of taking it off would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

-Zak

What bolt did you break off?

have to remove intake manifold. don't have to remove exhaust manifold but might be easier if you do. some people think its better to remove head bolts in the opposite order they are installed. then stick a big screw driver or pry bar into one of the intake ports and pry up gently to release the head from the gasket.

They are F-in heavy so be prepared for that. When you torque it back down, work from the center bolts out. Do it in stages. 50lbs or so first, then 75lbs, then your final torque 105lbs

When you remove the rockers and push rods, keep them in the order they came out to go back exactly where they came from.

When you remove the rockers and push rods, keep them in the order they came out to go back exactly where they came from.

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For the push rods you want them put in the same orientation as well.

When you go to do the actual removal of the head put one of the head bolt back in with just a couple of turns. You might have to apply some force to un-stick the head. If you have the bolt in there is no chance it will break free and then slide down. Once it is broke free you can remove the bolt and the head. Like it was noted, they are very heavy and removal is awkward. If you have a bad back get someone to help or use an engine hoist.

It looks like you might have the stock iron intake manifold, too. As noted the heads are heavy (although light compared to some I've wrestled), as is the intake manifold. You might want to spend a few days at the gym before taking this on . They are both difficult to get back on and correctly lined up, a helper can be a big help. Removing the hood also helps, so you're not squeezed down while trying to reach into the engine bay over the fender.

What everyone else said, but perhaps I can offer a tip when removing the intake...... and putting it back. Get a couple of 5/16-18 eye bolts and a piece of tube that will go through the eye bolt hole about 12-14" long. Screw the eyebolts diagonally into the carb mount hole on the intake. I would much prefer to remove the carb anyway, but I guess you could use it as a "handle" to lift the intake. Clamp the tube with 2 set locking pliers so tube stays in place. Needs 2 guys, one on each side and lift it out over the front end. Reverse to put in back, but I use a couple of long 5/16" bolts, minus heads, in a center hole each side to guide it in place so not to smear the new RTV (The Right Stuff) all over the place. Lots has been posted on putting intakes back down, no need to expand here.

You have a big job on, but not that bad if you follow the steps.

Hope that helps some.

What bolt did you break off?

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One of the alternator mounting bolts broke off a little while back.

What bolt did you break off?

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One of the alternator mounting bolts broke off a little while back.

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Is there not enough room to drill it out in place or use a remover?

What bolt did you break off?

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One of the alternator mounting bolts broke off a little while back.

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Check out this video from Jeff Ford for an idea.

Interesting video. One thing I would have done different is removed more of the stuff that is in the way. It almost always pays off in the end.

I would have also. The main thing is if I can get the bolt out without removing the head that would be my preferred method.

+1 on putting additional effort on the removal of the broken alt bolt. You may be able to fabricate a plate to bolt into the additional open holes left by Ford with a new mount for the alt.

Thanks

Not a bad video once you get past the comedy!!

If it is only an Alt bolt broken why remove the head and go to all that trouble. I agree that it's a good idea to take off anything that is obstructing room to work and get your access as straight on as possible. Still way easier than stripping the top of an engine down. Still be VERY careful not to damage the hole threads when drilling.

In the video, Bill is using a 'starter tap' and a 'bottom tap', if you are not familiar with the terminology, to finish the tapped hole.

i should get a set of 'bottom taps'.

I am with everyone else here. Try extracting the broken bolt first. If you totally mess it up then pull the head. For the price of the head gasket, intake gasket, oil change, radiator fluid and all you can probably pay for most of the cost of the tools.

i should get a set of 'bottom taps'.

I am with everyone else here. Try extracting the broken bolt first. If you totally mess it up then pull the head. For the price of the head gasket, intake gasket, oil change, radiator fluid and all you can probably pay for most of the cost of the tools.

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Even If it gets f'd up, it can still be repaired using a "Helicoil" or better yet a "thread-lok" insert. ( terminology may be different in other areas). These are a solid insert rather than spiral wound and less likely to distort. It would still be possible to do it with the head on the engine. Also it could be enlarged to 1/2-13, but the spacer and bracket may need to be re-worked as well. There are ways to fix almost anything. ( without checking, I believe the bolt size is 7/16"??)

A set of bottom taps may be hard to find at the parts store. but it may be possible to buy just the one needed if there is a machine shop supply company nearby. They are not typically used by the general public. Besides, the hole should be deep enough to get an ordinary tap in far enough to clean up. Or one could grind off the tip of starter tap to achieve more thread depth.

i should get a set of 'bottom taps'.

I am with everyone else here. Try extracting the broken bolt first. If you totally mess it up then pull the head. For the price of the head gasket, intake gasket, oil change, radiator fluid and all you can probably pay for most of the cost of the tools.

Click to expand...

A set of bottom taps may be hard to find at the parts store. but it may be possible to buy just the one needed if there is a machine shop supply company nearby. They are not typically used by the general public. Besides, the hole should be deep enough to get an ordinary tap in far enough to clean up. Or one could grind off the tip of starter tap to achieve more thread depth.

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I just like having tools.

i should get a set of 'bottom taps'.

I am with everyone else here. Try extracting the broken bolt first. If you totally mess it up then pull the head. For the price of the head gasket, intake gasket, oil change, radiator fluid and all you can probably pay for most of the cost of the tools.

Click to expand...

A set of bottom taps may be hard to find at the parts store. but it may be possible to buy just the one needed if there is a machine shop supply company nearby. They are not typically used by the general public. Besides, the hole should be deep enough to get an ordinary tap in far enough to clean up. Or one could grind off the tip of starter tap to achieve more thread depth.

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I just like having tools.

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Me too. I have a large tool box full of stuff I never use.......... or seldom!!