Got another problem 351c

engine turns over quick and starts idles rough quickly accelerates (standing still) pops a little ,,new plugs,cap points wires fuel pump,,no EGR valve  set air and fuel mix on carb still runs rough What would be a next step

Set the point gap (preferably by dwell angle) or replace if badly pitted. Set the timing.

That's Don ill try that in the next few days

engine turns over quick and starts idles rough quickly accelerates (standing still) pops a little ,,new plugs,cap points wires fuel pump,,no EGR valve  set air and fuel mix on carb still runs rough What would be a next step

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Did it do this before you changed parts?

Yes it did

engine turns over quick and starts idles rough quickly accelerates (standing still) pops a little ,,new plugs,cap points wires fuel pump,,no EGR valve  set air and fuel mix on carb still runs rough What would be a next step

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Have you done a compression test yet?

not yet fixing to do it in a couple days we just got 10" snow outside so I have to deal with that first Also the car has not been running for 10 years  I drain the old gas cleared the line today I think ill try to mess with the timing

not yet fixing to do it in a couple days we just got 10" snow outside so I have to deal with that first Also the car has not been running for 10 years  I drain the old gas cleared the line today I think ill try to mess with the timing

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You ran the engine on 10 year old gas?

not yet fixing to do it in a couple days we just got 10" snow outside so I have to deal with that first Also the car has not been running for 10 years  I drain the old gas cleared the line today I think ill try to mess with the timing

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You ran the engine on 10 year old gas?

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:goodpost:

supply the engine with some good gas, if that helps, you know the start of your issues. To me it sounds like a massive vacuum leak.

New gas and a 1/2 bottle of "Sea Foam" engine treatment. Best stuff I've found for clearing out crap in the fuel lines and carb.

Check your filter too for rust or other crud.

As for the distributor, treat yourself to a Pertronix Ignitor II and matching coil and ditch the points. I know you just want to get it running smoothly first, but that may not happen until other 'stuff' is dealt with first. It can be frustrating for sure. I had similar, but not as bad, issues on my 71 and it took several years for me to get it and myself, to where it is now. It was a long learning curve. Wish I'd known about this forum earlier!

Geoff.

I hear that about the long learning ..I did have new gas in it today my 30year old tuning light quit ..Man I thought it would last at least 75 years but I can't have my cake and eat it too...lol I also found an exhaust bolt missing on the head ,,,had it running again today moved the distributor left and right a little but nothing changed still shaking and a little back fire..so i'll get a new timing light the old way would be to remove plug #1 with a wood dowel i'll make sure num 1 is TDC with the duration in the middle and then check Distributor pointing to #1 if that's all right i'll try running it again ..does this sound wright to you guys???

Hemikiller did not do a compression test yet Jeff 73 I checked all vac hoses im good their

Just because the vacuum hoses are good doesn't mean you don't have a vacuum leak. Most common vacuum leaks are intake manifold not properly sealed. You can check this using some starting fluid or brake cleaner and spraying (lightly) around the intake manifold and carb base, if rpm's increase you have a vacuum leak. the front and rear on the manifold where it meets the block is most common.

Good deal ill try that tonight

Stanglover which Pertronixll should I get their a lot of different types one say's for ( Auto lite) it a stock distributor I got now

Just because the vacuum hoses are good doesn't mean you don't have a vacuum leak. Most common vacuum leaks are intake manifold not properly sealed. You can check this using some starting fluid or brake cleaner and spraying (lightly) around the intake manifold and carb base, if rpm's increase you have a vacuum leak. the front and rear on the manifold where it meets the block is most common.

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Leaks at the front and rear intake valley walls will give you an oil leak, not a vacuum leak. 

Use carb cleaner to spray around the carb base and intake gasket joint. 

We used to use it to test for dead EFI fuel pumps. A couple shots in the intake hose - if it started, most likely the pump was toast. Then you whomped the bottom of the tank with a mallet and 90% of the time the pump would start working again so you could at least drive it onto the lift.

Before you go spend any other money, get the engine running on some fresh fuel. Today's fuel has a life of about 60 days before it turns and causes running issues. running it on 10 year old fuel is not a good way to judge how an engine runs.

hemikiller gas and a new fuel pump too on the engine had it running today but wont start now spark is good at the plug gas too checked timing TDC to num 1 on distributor nothing tomorrow is another day ,,,,

Sounds to me that you had an issue 10 years ago (and although you have done a "tune up") still do! Things that took these things off the road were either engine in need or major work (read valve guides, seals and rings) or items like the NYLON Gear on the timing set !

Sounds like you will have to see the condition of the new plugs ...are they getting oil fowled already (seals) or do you have a cylinder (ring) issue? YOU ARE RIGHT about using a dowel to confirm TDC on #1. If the rotor is off, it maybe due to the gear. It won't be just a matter of "clocking the wires" to fix.

I have read your posts before, sounds like you know your way around cars......just don't want to have to take apart in the dead of winter!

Mark