Transmission cooler line nut is broken

I was about to replace my radiator when the transmission cooler line's nut has broken in half. Now it's leaking of course.

Is there any way to repair it or a whole whole new cooling line is the only solution?

You might be able to cut off the flare, remove the damaged nut, slide a new one on, and reflare the end - gotta make sure to put the new nut on before flaring, though... otherwise, you're just cutting that line shorter and shorter until you do.

It looks like the line has a kink in it right behind the nut. What I would do is to get a new piece of 5/16" steel tubing from an auto parts store and cut the existing line in the straight section before the bottom bend and replace that section. You'll need to get a new 5/16" flare nut, a 5/16" union, and the new section of tubing.

This shows another good reason to use flare wrenches on tubing fittings.

It looks like the line has a kink in it right behind the nut.  What I would do is to get a new piece of 5/16" steel tubing from an auto parts store and cut the existing line in the straight section before the bottom bend and replace that section. You'll need to get a new 5/16" flare nut, a 5/16" union, and the new section of tubing.

This shows another good reason to use flare wrenches on tubing fittings.

Click to expand...

Oh sure... just tell him how to do it the right way.   :whistling:

My original suggestion was going to be the same as yours, and I had it written out, almost word for word as yours. Then I zoomed in on it and it looked like a kink or flat spot in it and thought the new flare nut probably wouldn't fit (been there and tried it) unless he could round it back out with a flaring tool vice. So I changed it, cleaner and simpler and less likely to fail. While I was fiddling around with it you beat me to the post.

Thanks guys.

I also had that idea to cut it right after the bottom bend because of the kink and since I dropped the new radiator in that line is a little bit short. I've cut the zip tie after the bottom bend to make it fit but since it's broke I put the zip tie back on and it sits about 1-1/5" lower. So an extension is still inevitable/better than a short/stiff fit.

My original suggestion was going to be the same as yours, and I had it written out, almost word for word as yours. Then I zoomed in on it and it looked like a kink or flat spot in it and thought the new flare nut probably wouldn't fit (been there and tried it) unless he could round it back out with a flaring tool vice. So I changed it, cleaner and simpler and less likely to fail. While I was fiddling around with it you beat me to the post.

Click to expand...

I'd noticed that 'kink' as well, but hoped he had enough to just be able to get away with it.

Your solution was WAY better.  I just had to pick on you a little.  ::thumb:: rofl

My original suggestion was going to be the same as yours, and I had it written out, almost word for word as yours. Then I zoomed in on it and it looked like a kink or flat spot in it and thought the new flare nut probably wouldn't fit (been there and tried it) unless he could round it back out with a flaring tool vice. So I changed it, cleaner and simpler and less likely to fail. While I was fiddling around with it you beat me to the post.

Click to expand...

I'd noticed that 'kink' as well, but hoped he had enough to just be able to get away with it.

Your solution was WAY better.  I just had to pick on you a little.  ::thumb:: rofl

Click to expand...

:lol:

::beer::

I think in this day and age I would order the reproduction line and replace the whole thing.  No kinks, no damage, good flow for fluid cooling.

kcmash

I think in this day and age I would order the reproduction line and replace the whole thing.  No kinks, no damage, good flow for fluid cooling.

kcmash

Click to expand...

Absolutely. That's how I approach it..do it righ..so I want to replace the whole thing sooner or later. But since this is the only car I have I need a temporary fix to get back on the road asap.

I think in this day and age I would order the reproduction line and replace the whole thing.  No kinks, no damage, good flow for fluid cooling.

kcmash

Click to expand...

I bought a complete set from Inline Tube - I could've sworn I ordered the non-stainless steel brake, fuel, and transmission lines, but they were an absolute nightmare to get the flares seated... like they messed up and sent me stainless lines anyway or something.  They were also a bit of a PITA to install with nothing in the way on mine, so I can only imagine how much 'fun' it'll be to replace the lines with everything still in the way.

Don't forget to take lots of pictures of the underside when choosing to replace 'em all - I wound up routing mine slightly different that they should've been as a result of not having as much reference material as I apparently should have [at the time].

Just some things to consider when thinking about ordering new lines.

Also, when I ordered mine, I didn't know I was going to definitely for sure have an AOD instead of the stock FMX transmission, so I'd ordered the cooling lines for the FMX.  Wouldn't you know it, the AOD's transmission line fittings are different and in different locations.  Fortunately, the AOD's previous owner left the fittings and had cut the lines with plenty of length to basically graft the new tubes and the AOD's tubes together.