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What did you do to your car today?


droptop73
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I like that.............would never have thought you could do something like that on an existing piece.

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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Gave up on the seat. 

 

This thing is going to be a handful to keep in a straight line.

 

Hopefully in a month or less I can get someone to put some 40 series flow masters on it.

 

[video=youtube]

You may think the engine sounds good loping like that but you are destroying you cam and lifters. You need to get the rpm up on a cammed up engine or it will beat it to death.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Gave up on the seat. 

 

This thing is going to be a handful to keep in a straight line.

 

Hopefully in a month or less I can get someone to put some 40 series flow masters on it.

 

[video=youtube]

You may think the engine sounds good loping like that but you are destroying you cam and lifters. You need to get the rpm up on a cammed up engine or it will beat it to death.

 

I agree.  That sounded like 6 to 700 rpm, you should be idling at 1100.  Are you a flat tappet or a roller cam?

 

kcmash

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Gave up on the seat. 

 

This thing is going to be a handful to keep in a straight line.

 

Hopefully in a month or less I can get someone to put some 40 series flow masters on it.

 

[video=youtube]

You may think the engine sounds good loping like that but you are destroying you cam and lifters. You need to get the rpm up on a cammed up engine or it will beat it to death.

 

Please explain that one for me, as I have never heard of that. Tried to research that theory to no avail.

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Gave up on the seat. 

 

This thing is going to be a handful to keep in a straight line.

 

Hopefully in a month or less I can get someone to put some 40 series flow masters on it.

 

[video=youtube]

You may think the engine sounds good loping like that but you are destroying you cam and lifters. You need to get the rpm up on a cammed up engine or it will beat it to death.

 

Please explain that one for me, as I have never heard of that. Tried to research that theory to no avail.

 

I have also heard the same thing but with flat tappet cams not roller. Low rpm will wipe out a cam. But my motor sounds very similar to the one in the video when it idles in gear. Mine may even have a little more thump to it. But that’s just nature of big motor on the street. Mine idles in gear around 750-800 rpm.  Never had any troubles.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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I always thought that it was only an issue during break in ???

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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What I have stated is not an opinion but stressed by all cam manufacturers. Racing cam profiles and lifters will never last like a stock set up. Many want you to do very specific break in periods and may even ask you to break in with less spring pressure than when you are actually racing.

Due to the heavy spring pressure and the quicker and higher lifts the pressure on the cam and lifter is many times more than with a stock cam. When I worked in race engine shop the boss never let a built engine idle less than 900 to help save the cam. Even at that when we would tear them down that had been driven on street never saw one that was not junk after just a few miles. How many circle track cars do you hear loping at low rpm or professional drag cars? They are torn down quite often and everything changed. If you have a flat tappet cam the lifters do not rotate at lower rpm therefore causing more wear. Also the lubrication at a low idle is just not there. That is why only one or two lobes might wear more than others not the same amount of lube.

Racing parts are made to be ran not sit and idle. Talk to the cam manufacturer and see what they suggest for an idle speed and do some research. I think you will find that high lift cams with heavy valve springs will not hold up in the long run.

Here is some reading on cams there are dozens of sites and none will say to let a cammed up engine idle low. https://www.camcraftcams.com/some-thoughts-on-cam-and-lifter-wear/

 

When you put a new engine together get a long travel dial indicator and take actual readings of the valve travel perpendicular to the valve. Check over time to see how the cam and lifters are holding up.

That is one of the benefits of the new engines today like the Coyote with their tiny little valves of less than 1" in diameter and very small springs. They do have 4 valves to make up for size.

Yes if you only drive to a few shows you will probably never have an issue but built engines just do not have a long life.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I appreciate the cam concern.

 

The stall on the converter is high enough there is no harm in turning up the idle speed a bit.

 

The camshaft and spring pressures are not anything too extreme for a flat tappet, we'll see how it holds up.

 

I am about 110 pounds closed, 312 open with some beehive springs.

 

IMG-6270.jpg

 

IMG-6271.jpg

 

fullsizeoutput-e68.jpg

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I had every intention of getting the new clock I received from Rocketman earlier this week installed this weekend.  Unfortunately, the microwave took itself out a few weeks ago and the new one showed up Friday.  It's an under-cabinet mount - yesterday's project... and of course, nothing lined up with the old one.  Then, I had to mow today... and forgot about the time change.  The mower took a dump on itself - literally when I tilted it up to clear the old grass clots before mowing... oil everywhere, half-soaked the air filter, and ran like 5 o'Clock Charlie's plane the whole time I was mowing.

 

I'll try to hit it first thing next weekend... after the Veteran's Day car show, that is.

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Took 3 sets of tail lights apart tonight to start cleaning and polishing them up. Out of the 3 sets, I think I found a total of 2 lenses that did not have some kind of hairline crack somewhere. At least I have a pair now to work with, hopefully I don't crack them during the polishing and re-assembly.

Used Q's technique with a heat gun to take them apart, no issues, came apart real easy. Even the chrome pieces came off easy with a little heat on them. Tomorrow, cleaning and polishing.

 

Tom

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alright so idle arm replaced, steering is back again, speedo gear replaced for a 21 tooth and the flowmaster 50 series are out and dynomax turbo mufflers are in. Sound is much more bassy and the unbearable high pitches are gone and the db is way down for where it was.

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alright so idle arm replaced, steering is back again, speedo gear replaced for a 21 tooth and the flowmaster 50 series are out and dynomax turbo mufflers are in. Sound is much more bassy and the unbearable high pitches are gone and the db is way down for where it was.

 

libram, it would be nice if you could post another video of how your car sounds now, for comparison. 

Really like how the 50s sound.

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!

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What I have stated is not an opinion but stressed by all cam manufacturers. Racing cam profiles and lifters will never last like a stock set up. Many want you to do very specific break in periods and may even ask you to break in with less spring pressure than when you are actually racing.

Due to the heavy spring pressure and the quicker and higher lifts the pressure on the cam and lifter is many times more than with a stock cam. When I worked in race engine shop the boss never let a built engine idle less than 900 to help save the cam. Even at that when we would tear them down that had been driven on street never saw one that was not junk after just a few miles. How many circle track cars do you hear loping at low rpm or professional drag cars? They are torn down quite often and everything changed. If you have a flat tappet cam the lifters do not rotate at lower rpm therefore causing more wear. Also the lubrication at a low idle is just not there. That is why only one or two lobes might wear more than others not the same amount of lube.

Racing parts are made to be ran not sit and idle. Talk to the cam manufacturer and see what they suggest for an idle speed and do some research. I think you will find that high lift cams with heavy valve springs will not hold up in the long run.

Here is some reading on cams there are dozens of sites and none will say to let a cammed up engine idle low. https://www.camcraftcams.com/some-thoughts-on-cam-and-lifter-wear/

 

When you put a new engine together get a long travel dial indicator and take actual readings of the valve travel perpendicular to the valve. Check over time to see how the cam and lifters are holding up.

That is one of the benefits of the new engines today like the Coyote with their tiny little valves of less than 1" in diameter and very small springs. They do have 4 valves to make up for size.

Yes if you only drive to a few shows you will probably never have an issue but built engines just do not have a long life.

 

Guess with 11,000 on mine now I should plan a rebuild immediately then.................

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What I have stated is not an opinion but stressed by all cam manufacturers. Racing cam profiles and lifters will never last like a stock set up. Many want you to do very specific break in periods and may even ask you to break in with less spring pressure than when you are actually racing.

Due to the heavy spring pressure and the quicker and higher lifts the pressure on the cam and lifter is many times more than with a stock cam. When I worked in race engine shop the boss never let a built engine idle less than 900 to help save the cam. Even at that when we would tear them down that had been driven on street never saw one that was not junk after just a few miles. How many circle track cars do you hear loping at low rpm or professional drag cars? They are torn down quite often and everything changed. If you have a flat tappet cam the lifters do not rotate at lower rpm therefore causing more wear. Also the lubrication at a low idle is just not there. That is why only one or two lobes might wear more than others not the same amount of lube.

Racing parts are made to be ran not sit and idle. Talk to the cam manufacturer and see what they suggest for an idle speed and do some research. I think you will find that high lift cams with heavy valve springs will not hold up in the long run.

Here is some reading on cams there are dozens of sites and none will say to let a cammed up engine idle low. https://www.camcraftcams.com/some-thoughts-on-cam-and-lifter-wear/

 

When you put a new engine together get a long travel dial indicator and take actual readings of the valve travel perpendicular to the valve. Check over time to see how the cam and lifters are holding up.

That is one of the benefits of the new engines today like the Coyote with their tiny little valves of less than 1" in diameter and very small springs. They do have 4 valves to make up for size.

Yes if you only drive to a few shows you will probably never have an issue but built engines just do not have a long life.

 

Guess with 11,000 on mine now I should plan a rebuild immediately then.................

 

I myself have never seen an engine with what I would consider a radical cam and heavy valve springs, double or triple, and flat tappets go more than 2,000 miles on race track without a refresh. That being new cam, lifters, springs, push rods, bearings and rings. Everything else is inspected and crank polished most times. All the used stuff was sold to the guys just trying to get into racing.

I am by no means an expert but did work in a race shop for couple years so saw lots of engines go through. The boss was the man with the knowledge I was there to learn.

Drag racing is passes not that many miles. Some of the Chevy guys at Greer 1/8 mile in SS that wind the crazy rpm in 12 to 13,000 can only go a couple weeks without rebuild. 

Roller cams definitely have an advantage of less friction and generates a better profile without all the wear forces. That is why Ford used rollers the 302 starting in the 80's. I have a friend that drove his Ford PU 165,000 miles without an oil change. He would change filter occasionally and just add. I would never do that but he did and it worked. How well it works to be determined, lol.

I have taken engines apart with hydraulic lifters that the cam and lifters was eaten up but engine ran smooth just no power.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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alright so idle arm replaced, steering is back again, speedo gear replaced for a 21 tooth and the flowmaster 50 series are out and dynomax turbo mufflers are in. Sound is much more bassy and the unbearable high pitches are gone and the db is way down for where it was.

 

libram, it would be nice if you could post another video of how your car sounds now, for comparison. 

Really like how the 50s sound.

 

I plan to, but its been rainy and crappy, need to take pics but I'd rather do it when its nice, I'll post a video too.

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Put my new quick fuel carb on and tuned it. Raining so I could not take it out and test so I am sure there will be some additional adjustments. Cam is pretty crazy so my idle is around 1050 rpm and is a full roller. Still sounds mean even at that.

9-AA1-B8-CA-D688-41-B3-B16-F-B3-DE9-D6-A801-C.jpg

 

Will post a video tomorrow.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

So, a couple of things in the past few weekends.  I've had tons of stuff going on, but managed to make it to a few car shows.

 

2 weekends ago, the Elks Lodge had a car show supporting the local VFW and other veteran charities.  Went there, won a 'Top 40' trophy (no pics, unfortunately - my camera battery died, and I was too stupid to take a pic with the cell phone).

 

Last weekend, there was a Toys 4 Tots Car Show at Twin Peaks restaurant, where the Mustang pulled another 'Top 40' award, this time a plaque.  I'd forgotten to charge the camera battery again, but took a quick cell phone pic, and a pal from the Concho Valley Car Council managed to get pics of all the entries... so, I swiped a few from him.

 

Frank2.jpg

 

Top40_Award.jpg

 

The editor of one of the local online news feeds (Joe Hyde, San Angelo LIVE!) was walking around taking pics, and I wound up sticking around for a few minutes talking with him after everybody had taken off.  He's a really cool guy and we were just BSing, but little did I know he was putting together a bit of a story.

 

Next thing I know, one of my FB friends linked me to the story.  Check it out: https://sanangelolive.com/news/entertainment/2018-11-19/classic-cars-converge-twin-peaks-benefitting-toys-tots?utm_source=San+Angelo+LIVE%21+Daily&utm_campaign=f6ba74b479-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2018_11_19_05_56&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_e509ef1720-f6ba74b479-319970041&fbclid=IwAR0gqR6CT9eEOtOq_D1CqA8rN26bUivxS6t_FOdryEMEJdX3_dBspAZAcuQ

 

Here are a few of the pics Joe took, as well:

 

overview-of-event.jpg

 

69-71-mustang.jpg

 

71-mustang-01.jpg

 

I'm still kicking myself for not insisting on placing the TuTone template on the hood myself, but oh well - I'll get it right next time it needs a paint job. ;)

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Yup - pathetic, I know.  After all my goings on about how it should look, then I mess it all up by trusting the painter to figure out the simple instructions on the template.

 

smh

 

:whistling:

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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