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What did you do to your car today?


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On 7/13/2020 at 11:06 AM, droptop73 said:

Autocross is a riot! I haven't been to one in a while but I'd like to again soon.

I feel like autocross would be a good arm workout with the ratio of the steering box on these cars. Reminds me, i really need to install my new steering box.

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I was going to adjust the headlights but ended up having a staring contest and I lost.     I'll try again tomorrow.

As a kid, I offered to help my older Brother's friend fix his leaking PS hose on his '56 T-Bird. Not knowing that the PS hose is a special hose, i replaced it with a length of gas hose. As soon as he

Good idea.  Where did you get the power from - straight off the battery or from the main feed to the cars fuse box.

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Worked on the dash a little more.  Trying to come up with clean way to install the triple gauges.  Working on some aluminum pods to work with aftermarket gauges.

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Edited by Bentworker
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now that is nice......

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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25 minutes ago, mudbilly said:

now that is nice......

Thanks- It started out life as a slice of 2.5” dia .035” wall 6061 T6 tube.

Now I have to make two more that match!

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2 hours ago, Bentworker said:

Thanks- It started out life as a slice of 2.5” dia .035” wall 6061 T6 tube.

Now I have to make two more that match!

You mean 5 more don't you - 2 for you and 3 for me.:whistling:   Very nice work.

Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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If you decide to start making them and selling them, count me in. 

Chris - Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former Mechanic U.S. Army

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

BIG RED MACH 1

Learning a lesson (or three) on the Cleveland every day.

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And now there is 3.  I’ll do a little more fine tuning once I get the gauges.

I might consider selling them- but only it would be a “kit” where you would get the blanks from me out of the lathe and would have to cut and file them to profile yourself.
 

The raw material for them is about $2 each, but the labor is the killer.  It takes me about 20 minutes each to cut the tube, anneal it, form the lip and bore to size like in the bottom photo.  
 

The lengthy part is cutting them to profile and doing a little hammer work to make them fit the console just right- the first one took me a couple hours as I was doing it freehand and checking fit often, the rest took about an hour each since I made a paper template off the first one.

 


 

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Nice job on those.

i would like 3 please. I’m a machinist and tool and die maker and have a lathe but you have worked out the process. No need to re-invent the wheel again. 

Please pm me and I will get you paid plus give address.

thank you

rod and sally 

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Installing electric fuel pump.  Not getting enough fuel at full throttle and vapor lot with high temps hot soak restarts

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Alan L

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Shot some freon in the AC tonight.  Not quite a full charge, but she blew cold.

The Blower fan showed its failure and squealed like a stuck pig when moving the cold air.

Is there any way to replace lube on the blower while in the car?  I think I have a spare fan, should I just buy a new blower and bolt it in?

It's definitely a different car with the windows up and the cold ac blowing

kcmash

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Should get my floor seam sealed this weekend. Finally I think I got a lead on a T5 transmission as well. Been slow progress. Working too much.

[button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1972-mustang-mach-1]Visit My Garage[/button]

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13 hours ago, not2old said:

Installing electric fuel pump.  Not getting enough fuel at full throttle and vapor lot with high temps hot soak restarts

What pump and regulator are you going with? I'm having issue when I'm running the car at WOT in first up to 5500 plus RPM then when I hit second it falls on its face for a second due to lack of fuel before it recovers. Are you doing in-tank? If not where are you mounting it?

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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I managed to get the power steering pump and the gearbox/lines all out. Replacing the rubber in the rag joint with Polyurethane, and getting the new Redhead Steering gear and new lines ready to go in. Then just need to make sure everything goes in correct so the wheel points the right way and I bleed the new box well and get all the air out. I was also thinking about removing the reservoir off the P/S pump and replacing the O-ring for it, as long as I can do just that and dont have to rebuild the pump itself since its quiet still. 

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Installing a holley mini max good up to 400HP. 5-7 psi.  I mounted it on the frame rail front down arch 45 degree towards tank at steel gas line

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Alan L

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Still need to replace rusting fuel line from pump to carb and hard wire fuse link and fuse box...we have return line to canister so no regulator.

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Alan L

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Since my bad disc in my neck will not let me do much lifting I have been getting all the bolt on parts ready to go on the Q vert build. I have boxes labeled with area of the the car they go. After I get them stripped, through the molasses, blasted, sanded I prime and paint. The I wrap with stretch wrap. Got all my grill brackets ready including headlight buckets. side marker lights polished and refinished, shock tower braces, bumper brackets, polished all the stainless and aluminum trim. All the seats are cleaned, door panels cleaned, rear side panels cleaned and resprayed. Front and rear valance sanded, filled, sanded and ready for more primer. Yesterday I finished stripping paint of the dual racing mirrors and they are sanded ready to prime. 
I did come up with an easy to mask off the tail light aluminum frames to all the flat black. I got new repo from Daniel Carpenter and btw they are a perfect match down the the numbers and Ford logo. They only come in 1973 style with no black out. I removed the aluminum by popping the melted nibs off that holds the trim on the red lens. The second one took 38 Min. to mask I got both done in about two hours from start to finish. The side marker and tail light housings were done with Krylon Fusion Satin white which looks just right. 
So when I do get the body sanded and sprayed I will have all the bolt on items ready. Going to use the whole dash out of the crashed 72 vert I got the interior out of also. I was originally Gold Glow so will go back with that.

The ginger paint was perfect match those two panels did not have the area behind the seat painted and you cannot tell where I stopped spraying. Also doing the long console with same paint. 

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Nice! I have been wanting to replace my taillights but didn't want to paint them because I thought it would be very difficult. I wasn't wrong, that was a good tape job, I am not sure I could duplicate that. What paint did you use?

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20200716_154600.jpg

 

I wish I would have painted my tail lights with the black. I know the 73 came without the paint, but I like the high light that they give.

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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I sold him today :classic_unsure:   bbwwaaaHH"!

:classic_sad:

:classic_blush:

But he has gone to a good home 

... Now how to I get my hands on a "vert"? :biggrin:

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wizzy.jpg

Enjoy's searching out 71-73 history

 

[button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=7211]Visit My Treasure chest[/button]

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Did some more work on getting the new steering box in, and while I was at it I put in some new LED headlights. Hard to get a good pic since they are so shiny, but they look good and still keep a bit of a classic look. 

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After a total rebuilt of my Mach1's standard engine I did a dyno test this weekend.

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and these are the results:

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I'm happy with it. :banana:

Cheers Frank

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1972 Mach 1, 351C-2V, wimbledon white, blue all vinyl luxury

born in Dearborn, grown in the district of San José, spent a lifetime in California, moved to Germany in 2010

Mustang_Mach1_wallpaper_300_150.jpg proud member of clublogozusammen.JPG.59fb4a10d15cfff9ec756235059135b8.JPG

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Today I got frustrated getting my outer wheelwell to match the new quarter panel. I cut off the rotted edge and put in the edge from a new outer wheelwell. Took enough time... Upon further inspection the original outer wheelwell is put in off. No idea how Ford made it to fit. Bottom line: my patch is good but now off as well. So now I am attempting to patch the patch (god that sounds shit...) and make it line up with the quarter panel (which I measured and deemed correct).

I am new to bodywork so I have no idea about build quality. Is this common for our cars?

Here’s a pic to laugh at:

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I *will* persevere...

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Founded:
July 2010

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