Wheel Alignment

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They're really not that much different than the all mechanical alignment setups from the past. The biggest difference is not have the rotating tables for the front wheels to sit on, which makes it easier and more accurate to rotate the front wheels to the desired angle, without causing any loading on the steering components. The end of the gauge has a built in angle that you use to turn the front wheels to the estimated correct angle. It should be use on a level surface, with the car level front to back and side to side. You'll still need to use a tape measure to set the toe-in. It looks like you can also get a toe-in adapter to work with the caster/camber tool, that could be easliy made with some angle iron.

 
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Thanks for the input and that brings up another question.

The settings for bias ply tires the car came with and P-metric radials

it now has is said to be different. We have done extensive suspension

work and never had the car aligned although there is no evidence

of uneven tire wear, even after 4 years of use. The car does tend

to pull to left a bit depending on the road surface.

mike

 
The biggest difference between radials and bias-ply is with the caster adjustment. With radials it must be positive. The Mustang specs says -1 to +1 degree, for bias-ply tires. I would make sure it is around +1 degree to keep it from wandering, with radials. The pull to the left may be because you have more positive camber on the left wheel than the right. Incorrect toe-in can also contribute to pulling. Worn bushings in the rear spring shackles, or bent centering bolts in the rear spring pack can also misalign the rear axle, causing pulling.

When you perform the alignment, have the fuel tank around half full, or a little over, and remove any heavy items, like a tool box in the trunk.

 
When you use it for setting the caster and after you turn the wheels to the 15 degrees this one calls for, I would rock the car back and forth a little to free up the tires and suspension, to take any loading off the suspension caused by turning the wheels. Do the same thing when you set the toe-in, and after making any adjustments.

 
I was planning on taking the car down to the dealer where it was originally purchased,

Capitol Ford in San Jose, and asking for an alignment. When they balk at the request,

I would produce a copy of the original window sticker and complain they do not service

the cars they sell. Could be fun.

mike

 
I was planning on taking the car down to the dealer where it was originally purchased,

Capitol Ford in San Jose, and asking for an alignment. When they balk at the request,

I would produce a copy of the original window sticker and complain they do not service

the cars they sell. Could be fun.

mike
That would be WAY cool. Do it!! And let us know what happens.....

Doc

 
I was trying to come up with something, too. These could probably be positioned so they don't interfer with any of the adjustments, would require additional leveling effort, though, and require jacking up the car to put them on.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1045-2/

And then, I was looking for slip-plates or turntables, and came across this site, that uses greased floor tiles, with plenty of instructions:

http://www.elantragtclub.com/id554.html

 
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Since you need to level the car anyway, why not improvise a couple of turn plates? Maybe 4 squares of masonite and some grease?

I'm sure others will have some good ideas!
2 pieces face to face with a little oil should do the trick.

 
Well here it is. Now just need to figure out how to use it.

I have this knack for buying tools first and figuring

out how they work and what it is for later.

I ordered this from Summit Racing late Friday afternoon and

it was on my doorstep Saturday morning, no tax and free shipping.

mike

HPIM3040.JPG

 
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The pull to the left may be because you have more positive camber on the left wheel than the right. Incorrect toe-in can also contribute to pulling. Worn bushings in the rear spring shackles, or bent centering bolts in the rear spring pack can also misalign the rear axle, causing pulling.
A car will pull to the side that has the more negative caster as well.

 
I was thinking about the getting a tool to do mine eventually, so I'm curios to see how you make out.

I was looking at the racing tool sites with similar alignment tools and it appears that these guys do this before every race.

So it make me think that if they can get a race car dialed in good enough to race with, I should be able to get mine bang on the mark.

I also was thinking about the turning plates!

The concept with the floor tile is very good.

At work we make slide plates assemblies for the thermal growth on vessel and piping systems.

Basically you have teflon bonded to a base plate and stainless sheet metal tacked to another base plate.

The key here is that the base plate spreads the load out evenly to reduce the friction load.

When the time comes I will make a set with the plates just a bit bigger than the tire contact surface.

Good luck with the set up

 
I was thinking about the getting a tool to do mine eventually, so I'm curios to see how you make out.

I was looking at the racing tool sites with similar alignment tools and it appears that these guys do this before every race.

So it make me think that if they can get a race car dialed in good enough to race with, I should be able to get mine bang on the mark.
There is no evidence of uneven tire wear after over 5 years of use.

The tire's wear indicators are not exposed or even close to it.

The car does pull to the left slightly and the effect is not enhanced

by hard braking. So why do an alignment? Well; have never done

one before, sounds like fun, car probably needs to checked at least,

have replaced several suspension components and I get to learn more

about how my car works.

The device is made to be portable and you are right, if it is good

enough for the race circuit......

mike

 
I was thinking about the getting a tool to do mine eventually, so I'm curios to see how you make out.

I was looking at the racing tool sites with similar alignment tools and it appears that these guys do this before every race.

So it make me think that if they can get a race car dialed in good enough to race with, I should be able to get mine bang on the mark.
There is no evidence of uneven tire wear after over 5 years of use.

The tire's wear indicators are not exposed or even close to it.

The car does pull to the left slightly and the effect is not enhanced

by hard braking. So why do an alignment? Well; have never done

one before, sounds like fun, car probably needs to checked at least,

have replaced several suspension components and I get to learn more

about how my car works.

The device is made to be portable and you are right, if it is good

enough for the race circuit......

mike

No signs of uneven tire wear could be a sign of a caster problem.

 
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