1972 Grande rebuild

[JT351W]

As most of you know, the foot e-brake is useless for a manually driven car when stopped on a hill facing upwards. I searched for ideas online and the only example I found was putting the e-brake behind the stick shift without a center console. I want to keep the center console for storage and right side arm rest. But the space between the console and seat is pretty tight.

 

[JT351W]

But, I decided to try. I did some research and decided to go with a 87-93 mustang ebrake. I like the handle and I thought it would fit nicely with the interior. I made a cardboard mount to figure out fitment, spacing, etc. I then got some 16 gauge steel to make the actual mount. Did some test fitting. Then shaped the steel mount, welded it together, cut slot for the cable wheel, and welded in the two bolts used to mount the hand brake. I wanted to make the whole system modular so I could work in the areas in the future if I needed to without cutting.

 

[JT351W]

I also made mounting points on the tunnel reinforced with 16g steel underneath with bolts welded in place. One in front and the other in the rear. Then made a mounting point on the rear of the ebrake mount for the cable. The half moon shape if where the cable link slides in and is secured by a 20g plate with screws.

 

[JT351W]

Always checking spacing to see where the ebrake sits compared to center console and seat. It is close. Also checking angle of ebrake handle to console so my hand will fit to grasp the handle. I then made a hole in the tunnel for the cable system. The cable system I had was too long so it will need to be shortened. So I went back and forth to figure where the rear e-brake cables would link in the tunnel to the portion that is pulled by the eBrake. Using more 16 gauge sheet, I made a single piece containing the working part of the ebrake. I used a spring that I had sitting around to maintain tension on the ebrake handle to keep it down.

 

[JT351W]

Here is the completed ebrake. Now with the seat in position, the space is tight. The ebrake is rubbing on the seat. To thin the ebrake, I plan to remove the self adjusting spring section between the gear and cable mount. Weld back on the gear and cable mount so it is one with the handle. That will free up about an inch at least. I am thinking it will work out pretty good. Stand by.

 

[Sheriff41]

Nice fab work.

 

[Steve McMahan]

Overall, after reading the entire post, fantastic craftsmanship. Really motivates me to keep at it. Thanks for sharing.

 

[JT351W]

Overall, after reading the entire post, fantastic craftsmanship. Really motivates me to keep at it. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you for your comment. It keeps me motivated to keep posting.

 

[JT351W]

FInished with the hand brake. Just need to figure out the leather or cloth cover piece. As you can see, I rebuilt the cable/link mechanism to remove about an 3/4 inch of wasted space. I also built it to be modular - meaning I can take it apart without removing the whole assembly. You know, ff the cable broke or something along those lines. Attached you will see the following pictures: before disassembly, disassembled, putting it back together, assembled, assembled in the brake stand for the floor, and whole ebrake mechanism.

 

[JT351W]

Here are the pics of the assembly in the vehicle. Before the carpet, after the carpet and then with the seat in place. Still tight but not touching the seat now. Seat can move back and forth without rubbing. I also added a before/after pic of the ebrake to show how much space I saved. Again, that space savings let me "play" with spacing between the console and seat. I gave the ebrake a test try in my drive way with the stang rolling. Oh yeah. It stopped the stang. I am thinking even faster then the foot brake. Now I have a way to manage hill stopping without creeping etc.

 

[JT351W]

Sniper EFI is back on. I had some brain farts (wiring, etc) but eventually it fired up. At 60 years old, I am glad to find my way home from work. Drove it around for the EFI to "learn". I am also researching EFI tuning so I can dial it in. But I figured in the meantime, let it learn. I also figured out a way to add a hood release from inside the cab. I have the part and am troubleshooting the link mechanism at the latch, etc. Once I get that figured, I will add pics. I still have to finish some weather proofing, sound proofing, finish sound system hook up, and then the dreaded body work for paint. Oh, I need to squeeze in an alignment.

 

[JT351W]

I had a major setback with the rebuild. I could not set the alignment correctly. I discovered I had installed the shock tower aprons assemblies incorrectly. I mean they were off by 1/2 inch at the front bumpers - passenger side to the left by 1/2 inch and driver side to left by 1/2 inch. I had to add shims to passenger side to make .5 degree camber and the drive side I could only get to .2 degree max. SO, what to do? I removed the engine. I removed the under engine cross member, the front cross member, and the radiator support. Then pushed the left apron 1/2" to the right (towards driver side) and the welded on braces. The pushed the drive side apron 1/2 out and then braced that. I measured over and over again. I also purchased a cam lockout kit for the lower control arm. I got it set up so the outer edge of the wheel hub of both passenger and driver sides were within 1/16" in track with the rear wheels. Camber is about .5 degrees. And there is enough play to move camber out or in. I welded on the front cross member, measured again. Then the engine cross member, measured again. Was this a pain? Totally!! I wish I had taken the time to get this right the first time. But this is my first build. Live and learn. and And it took me about three months to get that done between work, cold days, and being disabled. Not an excuse. Just a challenge.

 

[JT351W]

While I had the engine out when redoing the front apron assembly, I figured I would double check stuff. Well, the exhaust manifold was loose. That explained the wet cylinders. Too much fuel to compensate for the excess air. And it explained the high AFR on both banks. I also wanted to improve wiring management. New Taylor low resistance wires and looms to give the engine a better look. I rechecked the valves to zero lash plus 1/4 turn preload. And then I went back to engine bay. I moved most of the wiring from the engine bay to under the fender well to give the engine bay a cleaner look. Engine is back in now. I installed the radiator mount making sure it is within 1/16" tolerance from the factory holes in the cowl. I painted the engine bay same color as the exterior. Lots more to do. But I just had surgery on my right hand so I have to heal and recover strength. Very frustrating.