351 engine tear down

[secluff]

I know your walking into a mud hole when you talk about camshafts. Cam recommendations, ideas, favorites, etc are like rear ends, everybody's got one! The Ford engineers did a good job on the 351 CJ's. They had to deal with ever tightening emissions laws, drivability on the street, and to perform strongly yet be "tame" enough to carry a factory warranty.

The 351 CJ actually used a 428 valve spring and if you check the cam specs you'll see the 351 CJ cam had the same profile as the 428 CJ cam. And if you have ever owned, driven, raced, rode in, or raced against a 428 CJ, you know they were BAD A$$!! Since one of your requirements was to remain stock, the third cam listed in barnnett468's Crane Blue Racer post looks to be a direct replacement for your 351 CJ.

I was told years ago by one of our shop techs, that the triple groove valves were designed mainly for valve rotation for even wear and valve cooling. Technology has improved so much over the years that as long as you get a name brand stainless steel valve, you should do well. Once again the sides are divided on singe groove VS triple groove. (I run single groove in my "M" codes by the way)!

Good luck on your project!

 

[Manu Mach1]

So I found the cam I need, good point, the clouds slowly dissapear, but the way is still long.

Still no news from Alex's parts, but what I know they are running out of valve guides.

I sent them a reminder with the cam specs to be sure they send me the right parts.[/align]

Refering to the excellent book "how to rebuild..." by Tom Monroe, yellow stripes on valve springs belong to the 351 C 2V engine. So looks like my 4V heads have been touched by a bad mecanic

I used 600 sand paper on the crankshaft, still need to continue but looks like I won't need to grind it.

 

[Manu Mach1]

Any tricks available to remove the camshaft bearings without using the proper tool?

The only way I see is to use the old camshaft and set it upside down but it looks dangerous to me to do that way.

 

[barnett468]

Refering to the excellent book "how to rebuild..." by Tom Monroe, yellow stripes on valve springs belong to the 351 C 2V engine. So looks like my 4V heads have been touched by a bad mecanic

Not necessarily, just becase they have yellow on them doesn't mean much of anything after 45 years, they could be almost anything by now.

I used 600 sand paper on the crankshaft, still need to continue but looks like I won't need to grind it.

If there tiny marks on it, it's best to have a crank shop polish it . . If your bearing clearance is too big, you can get .001" over sized bearings or use standard bearings in one side and a .001" over bearing in the other . . Also, if you do it yourself, I would use wet dry paper and wd40 or water.

 

[Manu Mach1]

I use WD40 together with the sand paper.

I found out that one oil passage on one head was plugged with sh.., in the front of the head, it's where the main bearings are marked.

I wait for some good calipers and other professionnal tools to measure exactly all journals. Then I will see if I do it my self or send the crankshaft to the mecanic.

 

[secluff]

Manu Mach1 Wrote:

Refering to the excellent book "how to rebuild..." by Tom Monroe, yellow stripes on valve springs belong to the 351 C 2V engine. So looks like my 4V heads have been touched by a bad mecanic Sad

Don't want to get into any pi$$ing contests, cause most of the time these books are on the mark with their info. But Tom is wrong on the springs. The C9OZ-6518-E 428 springs Ford used on the M & Q 351's were marked with silver or yellow stripes. I installed a set of Boss 351 valve covers on my NEW 1972 Gran Torino Sport with "Q" 351 and I remember yellow stripes on the springs. Back then I didn't know what that meant or why Ford would paint valve springs???!!! Lol

 

[Manu Mach1]

A light update:

About those springs I change them, waiting for Alex's Parts springs, valves, valve guides and more.

The crankshaft is to the machinist and now I wait his call to see how he will have to grind it, then I know what I need to purchase right rod and main bearings.

 

[Manu Mach1]

Crankshaft is done, will pic it up to the machinist those days.

I received all parts from Alex.

About the heads, I need to find someone who could ream the valve guides to insert the new ones. Is there a special tool like a guide to do this job well done?





And pics from the last meeting

 

[barnett468]

Nice car show, where is that?

valve guides are thick and the head must be machined to install them.

valve guide liners are very thin and are bronze and the guides cam be reamed with a reamer and 1/2" drill and they can be installed with the proper tool . the end the tool is n sometimes needs to be reamed slightly with a tapered reamer to remove any metal that was smashed over when they were installed.

your seats will need to be recut.

i always lap in all the valves after cutting them.

 

[Manu Mach1]

We have near home the monthly meeting. Was a lot Mustang, but the only proud owner of a 73 model

I picked up the crankshaft, freshly regrinded, ready to receive new rod and main bearings, 0.010 undersize.

Heads still need to be machined to insert the valve guides (i choose iron one and not bronze), and hard exaust seats.

Then I will order the sealed power CS 650 camshaft, hydraulic lifters, rings for the pistons, and I will be ready to rebuild the engine.

 

[timachone]

Looks good and shiny - keep going on ::thumb::

 

[Manu Mach1]

So, still need camshaft bearings:

Sealed Power 1403M or Clevite SH710S.

Rod bearings:

Sealed Power 83400CP or 3400CP.

0,010 undersize.

Crankshaft main bearings:

Sealed Power 4925M or 146M.

0,010 undersize.

The bypass tube is already removed, pinhole on it, need a new one.

Any though about what I should choose?

Here is the block before and after a cleaning job:

 

[timachone]

Hi Manu,

don't despair - you need one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Ford-C5AZ-8555-B-Water-By-Pass-Tube-69-Mustang-Boss-65-66-67-68-OEM-/391417448036?vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-Ford-C5AZ-8555-B-Tube-/191544124781

http://www.alexsparts.com/water-bypass-tube-nipple-sbf-bbf-351c-351-400m-fe-5-8-x-2-1-2/

They were used on several engines but this part seems to be the right one - part number C5AZ-8555-B.

It is pressed into the block. You could try to pull it out with a gear puller. Or drill it out. Or... Didn't do that yet.

Hope that helps!

 

[barnett468]

If your block is pretty rusty inside the water jackets, you can soak it in oxalic acid solution for around 3 days and it will be spotless.

 

[Manu Mach1]

I finally found a shop who can machine the heads, and not far from my place. They will install the new guides and set some exaust valve seats.

For now, I have almost all parts to rebuild the engine, are missing the rod and main bearings 0.010.

What do you think about those ones?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enginetech-Ford-351C-351M-400-Rod-and-Main-Bearings-Kit-/381592437401?hash=item58d8ae8299:g:yJ4AAOSwFnFV8tA2&vxp=mtr

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-Mercury-351C-King-Rod-Main-Bearings-Set-1970-71-72-73-74-010-010-/171963372659?hash=item2809d0d473:i:171963372659&vxp=mtr

Thnaks.

 

[barnett468]

.

I use 1/2 grooved Clevites to improve oiling to the rods.

 

[Manu Mach1]

Barnett, looks like the ex owner used only water as coolant liquid, it's why it's so dirty. I will try with this oxalic acid.

I'll have a look to those Clevite stuff, there are so many brand on the market, for sure better to use the best to keep the engine runs for the next 40 years.

 

[secluff]

I'm with barnett468 on the Clevite rod and main bearings. Ford who had hundreds of suppliers and venders at their disposal, thought enough of the Clevite 77 bearings to make them the bearing of choice for the Boss 351 and 351CJ's. They were offered in standard, .001, .002, .010, .020, .030, all with Ford part numbers and we sold a pile of 'em. I used them in two CJ's and one M code 351 of mine.

 

[Manu Mach1]

I found different ones for the 351 Q code engine on Mahle-Clevite site. Which one should I take? No performance engine with 0.010 crankshaft machined.

 

[c9zx]

I found different ones for the 351 Q code engine on Mahle-Clevite site. Which one should I take? No performance engine with 0.010 crankshaft machined.

The Clevite H series bearing should work fine for your application.

Chuck