351 engine tear down

[Manu Mach1]

Thanks guys.

Next step, rebuild the engine.

 

[barnett468]

Thanks guys.

Next step, rebuild the engine.

I don't know if it has been mentioned but don't set the front cam bearing in any deeper than around .005" . the ford spec is .003" to .005" . unfortunately most shops aren't aware of this so they often set them up to .125" which can expose a lot of one of the oil galleys.

 

[Manu Mach1]

Barnett,

You mean this one?



If I understand you, it could be bad oiling if this first bearing is set to deep?

I don't have tool to remove the cam bearings. I read somewhere that I can use the old camshaft in reverse position to remove the bearings, is that true?

But then even if I could remove them, should be not easy to replace the new ones.

 

[barnett468]

Yes, that's the bearing and the one in your photo is set deeper than factory spec which even happens at the factory . The big oil port in the journal is not always in the exact same location, therefore, if the oil hole is farther back, you can set the bearing farther back . Part of the oil port is occasionally exposed no matter where you set the bearing and having some of it exposed won't cause any problem, however, it is safer to err on the side of caution and expose as little as you can.

The shop might only charge $10.00 uds to knock the bearings out and unless you have experience installing them I would let them do it but maybe tape a big note to the front of the block with the depth you want the front bearing installed.

 

[Manu Mach1]

Heads are to the machinist. As they use to work on alloy heads and not often on iron ones, he asked me how much he should drill to install the valve seats and the valve guides to keep them in place.

-Valve seats are: 1.750" x 1.500" x .219" FE Ford w/ 1.650", 351C & BBF w/ 1.654".

-Valve guides are: CAST IRON, 11/32" x 2.375" x .502" UNIVERSAL ( I read on my book " they are installed by driving them into place after machining into the original guide to a diameter equal to the OD in the insert, less a couple of thousandths of an inch for an interferance fit"), how many inch is that from the OD of the new guides?

Then when guides and stem are replaced, clearance should be between 0.0010 to 0.0027 inch for the intakes and between 0.0010 to 0.0030 inch for the exauts.

 

[Manu Mach1]

Yes, that's the bearing and the one in your photo is set deeper than factory spec which even happens at the factory . The big oil port in the journal is not always in the exact same location, therefore, if the oil hole is farther back, you can set the bearing farther back . Part of the oil port is occasionally exposed no matter where you set the bearing and having some of it exposed won't cause any problem, however, it is safer to err on the side of caution and expose as little as you can.

The shop might only charge $10.00 uds to knock the bearings out and unless you have experience installing them I would let them do it but maybe tape a big note to the front of the block with the depth you want the front bearing installed.

Hi,

Cam bearings still need to be removed.

Is the first bearing is really set to deep?

 

[barnett468]

Cam bearings still need to be removed.

Is the first bearing is really set to deep?

That bearing is set deeper than the factory spec but this happened with some at the factory and they will still work that way but in some cases it exposes a lot of the oil hole in the block so it pours oil out of it.

really need photos of the front of the bearing and that oil hole to tell.

even if moving it back restricts that hole in the second photo some, that bearing will still have way more tan enough oil and restrictors are often installed into those holes to reduce oil to the cam so more goes to the crank and rods.

 

[Manu Mach1]

Barnett,

Oh yes, more easy to see with those pictures, oil restriction to the other hole.

 

[barnett468]

holy crap, lol . yours is right to the front of the block . yeah, i would only be going .005" deep max with your bearing.

 

[Manu Mach1]

Ok good, was thinking was too deep (restriction oil passge, the bigger hole).

Waiting for SH710S bearings from Clevite.[/font]

 

[Manu Mach1]

Hello,

Very mini update: block is back home with cam bearings in place.

Waiting for rings, main and rod bearings.

 

[barnett468]

Hello,

Very mini update: block is back home with cam bearings in place.

Waiting for rings, main and rod bearings.

Xlnt!

Happy Holidays!

 

[Manu Mach1]

Little, but very little update...

The body is still in same condition. The guy didn't realise how much work has to be done, and so he did almost nothing.

I found a new shop that should be good this time.

I need to pickit up and bring it in the next few weeks.







image host

 

[Manu Mach1]

Hello,

Heads are done, new guides and exaust valve seats.

Manu

 

[mustang7173]

Manu Mach1,

Goose Bumps!

mustang7173

 

[mus72]

I think i have a new set of hardened push rods if you are interested.

 

[Manu Mach1]

I have thanks. Just need to grind the valve seats before rebuild the heads.

Then I need piston rings, crankshaft main bearings and I should have all what is needed to rebuild the engine.

 

[Manu Mach1]

Hi, is this Mallory kit will work on my 351 C Q code engine with a camshaft same as the original one?

Thanks.

 

[c9zx]

It will work but has no vacuum advance so you will give up some gas mileage. Make sure the distributor gear is compatible with the cam gear. Chuck

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2009/07/properly-matching-your-camshaft-and-distributor-gear/

 

[Manu Mach1]

So my main concern is to know if the distributor gear is compatible with the cam gear.

For the rest, you mean that without vacuum advance I should burn more fuel?