351 engine tear down

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Today I started to look at the next step, which is the rings cut. On the original pistons, the first ring is marked with a dot for the assembly.
I looked at the new rings, with +0.030" because the block has been re-bored, and the mark is on the compression ring. There is no mark on the first ring, how come?

I come back to the cut, if I have the right information, as the block has been re-bored to +0.030", I must file the rings:
0.004 x 4.030 = 0.016"

Do I have to file all the rings as well including the wipers?
I need to get a fine file for this.
 

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There should have been some instructions with your rings. That's a good place to start. Marks generally indicate which side goes up. No mark usually means it doesn't matter. It has to do with the ring's cross section and position (top, 2nd). You want to check the gap on all of the rings (including oil control wipers). The gap will differ depending of piston material, application, and "power adders" (turbo, supercharger, nitrous). In general, the 2nd ring should have slightly more gap than the top. This has to do with not trapping pressure between the rings.
 
At the rate I'm going, the engine should be reassembled within a decade, by which time we'll be running on what, hydrogen?
Well, the crankshaft is fitted, I've coated the journals well with Red Lube, and won't forget to put Permatex Supra Black on the rear bearing to prevent any oil leaks. A little progress next week, if I think about it, if I have time, if I want to...
Keep at it. Rome was not built in one day.;)
 
Well, I just have to file, it's a patient game. I did a test on the first ring that will go to cylinder number 1, I have to go slowly, I almost exceeded the maximum tolerance.

Rome is a beautiful city, we know why :)
 

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Experimentation I would say as I never been so far in a restoration.

A lot of crap wason the heads, and under the pan valley, surely caused by a very poor maintenance. When I opened the engine last evening, the smell remind me some location with H2S, but no I was not on a job.

I have a few push rods bented.

Any suggestions are welcome, I need to refer to books and documentation I have to continue the job, and of course the help of this site ::thumb::

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Yep soak the distributer, then work it back n forth. The lifters are prob. slightly mushroomed, I switched from a lifter puller to vice grips on mine & tossed 'em. Cam, lifters, bearings, pistons, timing chain n gears are junk. You'll end up going .030 on the bore. No domed pistons for your build. A good quality forged flat top will bump up your comp a bit. I went with these pro tru street pistons from Wlseco. at 500 they're the best bang for the buck. Don't be surprised to get your big end resized on your rods, the guides may be worn (don't bother knurling, it's a temp fix) If your oil pan is baffled to match that pick up it's a Cobra jet pan. These are expensive motors to build, invest some $ in it and you'll be happy. My Cleveland cost me more money to build than my 440 Mopar. Don't be surprised to wait for parts longer than usual. You may want to make sure they have them in stock.
 

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There should have been some instructions with your rings. That's a good place to start. Marks generally indicate which side goes up. No mark usually means it doesn't matter. It has to do with the ring's cross section and position (top, 2nd). You want to check the gap on all of the rings (including oil control wipers). The gap will differ depending of piston material, application, and "power adders" (turbo, supercharger, nitrous). In general, the 2nd ring should have slightly more gap than the top. This has to do with not trapping pressure between the rings.
I am certain the maker of the tings wants you do install and break the new rings in properly. I would reach out to them and get directions from them.
 
Here are some progress in rebuilding the engine. Still need to do a lot, but somehow I go forward with help from a friend.
 

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Just looking at the photo of your timing gears installed. Many Cleveland Ford engines, if not all of them, switched to a "two-piece" fuel pump eccentric, your cam gear has a machined surface on the front that looks like it takes a "one-piece" eccentric. The "one piece" eccentric will require the longer dowel pin, which keeps the eccentric from turning. Your engine appears to have the short cam dowel pin, used with the "two -piece" eccentric, as the center part of the "two-piece' has a tang which goes onto the hole to keep it from turning. So, having said that, a "two-piece" eccentric, when attempted to be torqued down, will lock- up on this flat pad. Cam gears used with the "two-piece' eccentric will have a sort of Figure 8 looking machined surface, that lets the outer ring of the eccentric spin on the center part. So, I'm thinking you will need to aquire a "one-piece " eccentric, and swap out the cam dowel pin for the longer one, or, replace the cam gear with a gear machined compatable for a "two-piece". Did you save your old cam gear for reference? It will tell you what the story is. Also, the old addage about ring gaps, which we learned in High School, "....3 to 4 per inch of bore, meaning, standard SAE ring gapping is .003" to .004" x bore size, is a standard "go-to" when no other specifications are given, and works fine. However, if, as you indicated, you filed gaps to the higher measurement, in the window, Don't lose any sleep over it. Engines assembled to the high side of tollerences, rather than the tight side, are always preferred. "There are a lot of good running loose engines out there, but very few good running tight engines". Rings installed at the high side of gap still do their job. In fact, sometimes better. Same goes for rod and main bearing verticle oil clearance. One of the jobs oil does, besides lubricate, is cool. Oil can't keep a bearing cool if it has resistance to flow in - and- out of a bearing, and is a main cause of "spun bearings", heat. Even if one is to set bearing clearances to the high side of clearance, commonly about .003", that means the bearing quite literally has .0015", ( one and a half thousanths) of oil clearance per side. A human hair commonly mearures .002", so in reality, the high side oil clearance isn't really lose as you might perceive it in your head, and, there's less resistance for oil to flow out of the bearing and carry heat away, so it's a good thing, and is the reason performance engine builds will set clearances to the high side. Anyway, just some info to a person rather new to engine assembly, to maybe help you along.
 
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I have the two pieces fuel pump eccentric, it's the one that commes from the engine. The outer of the eccentric is free. The camshaft is a Sealed Power C650 and the cam gear is from CLOYES 9-1121 part number.
To be honnest I have to read your message a few times and at the end I used DEEPL to translate to be sure what you said, cause I don't want to fuck up my rebuild. But I am confused about the lenght of the pin. The pic shows how was the timing gears.
 

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Here are some progress in rebuilding the engine. Still need to do a lot, but somehow I go forward with help from a friend.

Here are some progress in rebuilding the engine. Still need to do a lot, but somehow I go forward with help from a friend.
I like to add a coat of aviation form a gasket on the water pump gasket. The plate it sits on usually has its share of imperfections and porosities from use. Don't forget a couple of those bolts may be a bit longer for brackets.
 
Oh yes the plate was not the best, so I add some nice coat to prevent any leaks.
Thanks the reminder, I forget about bolts for brakets.
 
Continuing to rebuilt the engine. I coundn't close the factory oil pan, cause the new pump I received was a high volume one, so I had to order another pump.
Next step, heads, hydraulic flappers, push rods, rocker arms...
 

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I went with the Melling M-84 AHV High volume oil pump and Melling hardened drive shaft with the stock oil pan and pick up tube. I have the whole build on Media.
 
I went w all melling parts and everything bolted up just fine myself
 

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Probably because I have this oil pan I guess ?
 

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