351c Reputable engine builders

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Slowride71

New member
Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Messages
4
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Location
Space coast, Fl
My Car
1971 Fastback
I wanted to get some recommendations on reputable engine builders. I’m looking to have a 351c built to 393. Preferably, I just want to buy the engine already put together, that way I have my original block and can restore it at a later date.

I had a guy reach out to me named Mike Rowland who does this type of work but I don’t see he has a website or find any reviews. Barnett Racing makes turn key 351c at the tune of 16-18k.

I know some will tell me to build it myself but due to my work schedule with the hospital, full time single dad and everything else I have going on, I just don’t have the time.

All information is appreciated.
 
If you want my 2 cents, I would say you are on the right track if you are thinking get a crate engine now and restore your original later. Plenty of the 351C crate engines will put out over 500hp and you get the motor in your car now. I made the mistake of rebuilding mine starting in 2021 and found out very quickly that Covid had created as huge supply shortage of parts (It's still in the shop and being assembled this week).
Rebuilding an engine for the first time can be a daunting task, there is a lot to learn. These Clevelands have huge potential but you have to build the motor as a system if you want to get the most out of it. A 393 Stroker is an ideal engine if you want a street/strip car. Lots of horsepower in the mid range if you build it right. A 408 Stroker has even lower end horsepower if you really want to knock it out of the park on your daily driver.
I would reach out to anyone that the folks on this forum suggest and be ready for the conversation when you get the rebuilder on the phone. What are your expectations of the car? Daily driver, Street/Strip or Drag Racing. Ask them questions about their knowledge of the Cleveland to ensure they know how to make you an engine that will last. Do some research on the Achilles Tendon of this engine, the oiling system. There are ways to make to put the priority on oiling the mains that the original design over-looked. This is a really amazing engine that was set to turn the world upside down but emissions controls cut it off at the knee caps with only 4 years of run time in the US and Canada.
Don't forget to ensure your brakes and suspension are in tip top shape if you're gonna put a Monster under the hood.

Have Fun!
 
If you want my 2 cents, I would say you are on the right track if you are thinking get a crate engine now and restore your original later. Plenty of the 351C crate engines will put out over 500hp and you get the motor in your car now. I made the mistake of rebuilding mine starting in 2021 and found out very quickly that Covid had created as huge supply shortage of parts (It's still in the shop and being assembled this week).
Rebuilding an engine for the first time can be a daunting task, there is a lot to learn. These Clevelands have huge potential but you have to build the motor as a system if you want to get the most out of it. A 393 Stroker is an ideal engine if you want a street/strip car. Lots of horsepower in the mid range if you build it right. A 408 Stroker has even lower end horsepower if you really want to knock it out of the park on your daily driver.
I would reach out to anyone that the folks on this forum suggest and be ready for the conversation when you get the rebuilder on the phone. What are your expectations of the car? Daily driver, Street/Strip or Drag Racing. Ask them questions about their knowledge of the Cleveland to ensure they know how to make you an engine that will last. Do some research on the Achilles Tendon of this engine, the oiling system. There are ways to make to put the priority on oiling the mains that the original design over-looked. This is a really amazing engine that was set to turn the world upside down but emissions controls cut it off at the knee caps with only 4 years of run time in the US and Canada.
Don't forget to ensure your brakes and suspension are in tip top shape if you're gonna put a Monster under the hood.

Have Fun!
I appreciate the info. The car has been sitting for to long now and I’m wasting years away not getting to enjoy it. It was gifted to me by my grandfather who bought it new at the dealer.

I’m looking to pretty much replace everything. Especially suspension and braking system. I think when it’s done it will be one cool car my grandfather would have loved.
 
I wanted to get some recommendations on reputable engine builders. I’m looking to have a 351c built to 393. Preferably, I just want to buy the engine already put together, that way I have my original block and can restore it at a later date.

I had a guy reach out to me named Mike Rowland who does this type of work but I don’t see he has a website or find any reviews. Barnett Racing makes turn key 351c at the tune of 16-18k.

I know some will tell me to build it myself but due to my work schedule with the hospital, full time single dad and everything else I have going on, I just don’t have the time.

All information is appreciated.
I ended up going to three different machine shops to get my build done and dyno’d. I acquired a 351c block in excellent condition and picked up the 393 stroker rotating assembly from CNC Motor Sports and a pair of Trick Flow aluminum heads from Summit Racing with 72 cc chambers that gave me a 10.6:1 compression. If I was fully informed from the get go, I would have had my build done at Houston Engine Balance in Pasadena TX. Bear in mind that if you find a reputable shop, you can expect at least a 6 month turnaround for your build if not longer. If you buy the parts yourself to your spec, you can expect to save $4k off your build. If there are no reputable shops in close proximity to you, then you might consider a crate engine. The first two shops I went to were staffed with a bunch of boneheads. Although the second shop eventually got it right. The whole experience was aggravating! Now it’s the AOD transmission that’s got me going. I’m and stick shift guy and am happily and unhappily ignorant with the goings on inside an auto tranny. I’m learning the hard and expensive way as I go. I also recommend going with a Holley Sniper throttle body EFI. It will save you much aggravation down the road!
 
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I ended up going to three different machine shops to get my build done and dyno’d. I acquired a 351c block in excellent condition and picked up the 393 stroker rotating assembly from CNC Motor Sports and a pair of Trick Flow aluminum heads from Summit Racing with 72 cc chambers that gave me a 10.6:1 compression. If I was fully informed from the get go, I would have had my build done at Houston Engine Balance in Pasadena TX. Bear in mind that if you find a reputable shop, you can expect at least a 6 month turnaround for your build if not longer. If you buy the parts yourself to your spec, you can expect to save $4k off your build. If there are no reputable shops in close proximity to you, then you might consider a crate engine. The first two shops I went to were staffed with a bunch of boneheads. Although the second shop eventually got it right. The whole experience was aggravating! Now it’s the AOD transmission that’s got me going. I’m and stick shift guy and am happily and unhappily ignorant with the goings on inside an auto tranny. I’m learning the hard and expensive way as I go. I also recommend going with a Holley Sniper throttle body EFI. It will save you much aggravation down the road!
Once you finally got your engine together, what kind of power were you putting down? Are you glad you went with the 393 over a 408?

It’s definitely been a struggle to find a shop that isn’t way behind or cutting back due to retirement.
 
Once you finally got your engine together, what kind of power were you putting down? Are you glad you went with the 393 over a 408?

It’s definitely been a struggle to find a shop that isn’t way behind or cutting back due to retirement.
With a moderate Comp Cams cam, i am pulling 475 HP and 476 lbs of torque. That was with the Edelbrock 1411, 750 cfm carb. Now running the Holley Sniper. I also ditched the OEM distributor that had a Pertronix ignitor. I went with a dual sync Holley/MSD distributor. Those figures were on the dyno so readings at the flex plate. Yes, the 393 provided more than what I expected. I expected 450 HP.

Sadly the knowledge base is shrinking badly with the lack of interest from the young men in high school. The technical schools are not turning out true mechanics. If they cannot connect a computer to the engine and let the computer do the thinking, then they cannot diagnose problems on their own.
 
With a moderate Comp Cams cam, i am pulling 475 HP and 476 lbs of torque. That was with the Edelbrock 1411, 750 cfm carb. Now running the Holley Sniper. I also ditched the OEM distributor that had a Pertronix ignitor. I went with a dual sync Holley/MSD distributor. Those figures were on the dyno so readings at the flex plate. Yes, the 393 provided more than what I expected. I expected 450 HP.

Sadly the knowledge base is shrinking badly with the lack of interest from the young men in high school. The technical schools are not turning out true mechanics. If they cannot connect a computer to the engine and let the computer do the thinking, then they cannot diagnose problems on their for me

With a moderate Comp Cams cam, i am pulling 475 HP and 476 lbs of torque. That was with the Edelbrock 1411, 750 cfm carb. Now running the Holley Sniper. I also ditched the OEM distributor that had a Pertronix ignitor. I went with a dual sync Holley/MSD distributor. Those figures were on the dyno so readings at the flex plate. Yes, the 393 provided more than what I expected. I expected 450 HP.

Sadly the knowledge base is shrinking badly with the lack of interest from the young men in high school. The technical schools are not turning out true mechanics. If they cannot connect a computer to the engine and let the computer do the thinking, then they cannot diagnose problems on their own.
For me, I probably don’t realize how much HP 475 actually is. I just know modern cars or today are coming out of the factory well north of that. I don’t want the baddest car on the road, but I don’t want my car to be a slouch either. Are these motors able to obtain a hp rating in the 600’s and still be fun on the road?
 
For me, I probably don’t realize how much HP 475 actually is. I just know modern cars or today are coming out of the factory well north of that. I don’t want the baddest car on the road, but I don’t want my car to be a slouch either. Are these motors able to obtain a hp rating in the 600’s and still be fun on the road?
Yup a 393 stroker with intake and head work can do this with the solid tappets and a big lift. Build the engine as a system. It’s the only way to go. Plenty of folks chose to use a blower or turbo to hit 600+. You can do it no problem with a regular 3.5” stroke. If you plan on keeping your original crank you just need the pistons and rods built for that compression. It’s touch and go with the crank but lots of guys say they can get 600 out of the factory crank.
 
For me, I probably don’t realize how much HP 475 actually is. I just know modern cars or today are coming out of the factory well north of that. I don’t want the baddest car on the road, but I don’t want my car to be a slouch either. Are these motors able to obtain a hp rating in the 600’s and still be fun on the road?
You can get 600+HP with a more aggressive build but it will certainly co$t you. Realize that 600 hp in a 50year old car that was not designed for that kind of power is dangerous. The modern vehicles nowadays have computer controlled traction and suspension to better keep the car stabilized during heavy acceleration and maneuvering and mind you a better center of gravity! The graceful looking hot rods of the bygone era were just designed and thrown together without much thought. It’s best to stay closer to original design parameters of our Mustangs and stay alive.
 
You can get 600+HP with a more aggressive build but it will certainly co$t you. Realize that 600 hp in a 50year old car that was not designed for that kind of power is dangerous. The modern vehicles nowadays have computer controlled traction and suspension to better keep the car stabilized during heavy acceleration and maneuvering and mind you a better center of gravity! The graceful looking hot rods of the bygone era were just designed and thrown together without much thought. It’s best to stay closer to original design parameters of our Mustangs and stay alive.
Boo!
 
You can get 600+HP with a more aggressive build but it will certainly co$t you. Realize that 600 hp in a 50year old car that was not designed for that kind of power is dangerous. The modern vehicles nowadays have computer controlled traction and suspension to better keep the car stabilized during heavy acceleration and maneuvering and mind you a better center of gravity! The graceful looking hot rods of the bygone era were just designed and thrown together without much thought. It’s best to stay closer to original design parameters of our Mustangs and stay alive.
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How far are you willing to travel from home base? If a trip to SC doesn’t bother you, give Carolina Machine Engines a call. They are very familiar with Cleveland technology.
www.cmengines.com
 
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