351w build [UPDATE]

[73vertproject]

Lookin good Jayson!

+1. Good job!

 

[Don65Stang]

Yes, looking good!

 

[TheJ]

Thanks guys, it's coming together slowly but surely.

Little update. I got the water pump, fuel pump and oil pan on. Next is rebuild the carb and bolt the intake and valve covers down.

It's a little warm in my garage.

 

[mach71351c]

Looks good Jayson.

 

[TheJ]

I have dumb question. Do I need these?

The yellow one screws into the thermostat housing and the grey one goes into the heater hose outlet(?). The yellow one has a crack in it.

Thanks for looking.

 

[c9zx]

The way the engine is now configured the short answer is no. The long answer is too long for me and my limited typing skills to put down. I don't remember exactly what year the heads are but, check to make sure there is not an open hole at the rear of the heads for smog tubes to bolt to. If they are there just block them off. You are making great progress. Your brother is a lucky guy. Chuck

 

[TheJ]

The way the engine is now configured the short answer is no. The long answer is too long for me and my limited typing skills to put down. I don't remember exactly what year the heads are but, check to make sure there is not an open hole at the rear of the heads for smog tubes to bolt to. If they are there just block them off. You are making great progress. Your brother is a lucky guy. Chuck

So I just run the distributor advance off of carb vacuum? It does have the holes for the smog tubes and I blocked them off. As for a thread sealer can I use teflon tape or do I have to use some sort of paste?

 

[caspianwendell]

There will be a port on the carb that only has vacuum when the throttle is open so you will need to find that one...I'm sure if you give the info on the carb someone will tell you which port it is

 

[c9zx]

My experience with teflon tape and teflon paste has been a 50/50 experience. When the surfaces are clean and dry, and time permits, I use a VERY SMALL amount of black RTV on the threads. Tighten it down, wipe off any excess, and let it cure for 12-24 hours. Chuck

 

[Tnfastbk]

The way the engine is now configured the short answer is no. The long answer is too long for me and my limited typing skills to put down. I don't remember exactly what year the heads are but, check to make sure there is not an open hole at the rear of the heads for smog tubes to bolt to. If they are there just block them off. You are making great progress. Your brother is a lucky guy. Chuck

So I just run the distributor advance off of carb vacuum? It does have the holes for the smog tubes and I blocked them off. As for a thread sealer can I use teflon tape or do I have to use some sort of paste?

Use the Yellow teflon tape it is much better than the white. It is used on gas pipe and such

 

[TheJ]

There will be a port on the carb that only has vacuum when the throttle is open so you will need to find that one...I'm sure if you give the info on the carb someone will tell you which port it is

I'm not sure what the carb is. It's a holley with 1850-2 on the choke horn.

 

[MotoArts]

It's a standard 600cfm. Good all around carb, very popular, good choice for your application.

Venturi vacuum hose/port on right front of the metering block on carb (larger of the 2 vac lines shown).

Manifold vac is the smaller hose coming from the carb base, kinda below the venturi vac hose:

 

[TheJ]

It's a standard 600cfm. Good all around carb, very popular, good choice for your application.

Venturi vacuum hose/port on right front of the metering block on carb (larger of the 2 vac lines shown).

Manifold vac is the smaller hose coming from the carb base, kinda below the venturi vac hose:

Cool, thank you. Any tips or tricks on rebuilding this carb? I've only rebuilt 2V motorcraft carbs before.

 

[c9zx]

It's a standard 600cfm. Good all around carb, very popular, good choice for your application.

Venturi vacuum hose/port on right front of the metering block on carb (larger of the 2 vac lines shown).

Manifold vac is the smaller hose coming from the carb base, kinda below the venturi vac hose:

Cool, thank you. Any tips or tricks on rebuilding this carb? I've only rebuilt 2V motorcraft carbs before.

Use the Holley kit and check condition of secondary diaphragm before you order. Think VERY clean, carb cleaner and air pressure. I don't think the 1850-2 has a check ball in the diaphragm housing but just in case be careful when you take it apart. Don't over tighten the float level screws (only 2-3 threads holding things in place). Take your time and don't get distracted. http://www.holley.com/37-119.asp Chuck

 

[TheJ]

Thanks Chuck, I already got the rebuild kit and didn't even think to check the secondary diaphragm. I'll check tomorrow and order it if I need it with the motor and trans mounts.

 

[c9zx]

Keep after it Jayson! Chuck

 

[MotoArts]

A little tip that I read a long time ago was to check the carb body for flatness (if that's a word). Remove the bowls and both metering plates and lightly run a new(er) large fine flat file across the metering faces. The last one that I did had many high spots that could cause the body to not seal and/or meter correctly.

Something like this:

http://www.lowridermagazine.com/tech/1207_lrmp_750cfm_4160_series_carburetor_rebuild/photo_09.html

and this:

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/accessories_electronics/sucp_1004_holley_4150_carb_rebuild/photo_14.html

And, like Chuck said... clean, clean, clean...

 

[TheJ]

A little tip that I read a long time ago was to check the carb body for flatness (if that's a word). Remove the bowls and both metering plates and lightly run a new(er) large fine flat file across the metering faces. The last one that I did had many high spots that could cause the body to not seal and/or meter correctly.

Something like this:

http://www.lowridermagazine.com/tech/1207_lrmp_750cfm_4160_series_carburetor_rebuild/photo_09.html

and this:

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/accessories_electronics/sucp_1004_holley_4150_carb_rebuild/photo_14.html

And, like Chuck said... clean, clean, clean...

Thanks for the tip, I'll give that a if it needs it.

While I was checking the secondary diaphragm I noticed that one of the secondary blade screws was snapped off so I took the others out and snapped on myself. I drilled them out and kept the threads intact but now I need screws. Can I just pick some up at the hardware store, because they seemed to be some kind of locking screw so they went kinda hard towards the end. Also, what's the best way to check floats to see if they leak?

Thank guys, I know these are kinda newb questions.

 

[MotoArts]

Oh-oh, you've lit the proverbial "fuse" of auto repair . Fix one thing, then find 2 more that are broken... hehehe.

The screws are expanded or "peened" on the end, by design, so they won't come out and swallowed by the intake. Kind of a one shot deal there. I've never had to replace one, but have seen them missing. I'd maybe source one from a parts carb before using a hardware store piece.

Floats... Shake the hollow plastic and/or brass ones. If compromised, you'll be able to hear the fuel splashing inside.

As for the black Nitrophil floats... never had a bad one personally, but I understand that they do "gain weight" over time.

 

[TheJ]

Oh-oh, you've lit the proverbial "fuse" of auto repair . Fix one thing, then find 2 more that are broken... hehehe.

The screws are expanded or "peened" on the end, by design, so they won't come out and swallowed by the intake. Kind of a one shot deal there. I've never had to replace one, but have seen them missing. I'd maybe source one from a parts carb before using a hardware store piece.

Floats... Shake the hollow plastic and/or brass ones. If compromised, you'll be able to hear the fuel splashing inside.

As for the black Nitrophil floats... never had a bad one personally, but I understand that they do "gain weight" over time.

No this whole motor has been like this and I had a case of the "while we're in here"s

I don't have a parts carb but I'll give holley a call and see what they suggest.