351w build [UPDATE]

[c9zx]

i couldn't find just the screws but, I did find this. http://www.holley.com/26-94.asp

Pay attention to how the plates install. The edge is angled to seal (well almost) to the bore in the base plate. Only one way is right. Chuck

 

[marks73]

And they say this forum offers up no help. Bah ha ha! Keep at it Jason. Great work!

 

[c9zx]

Who says that and is anyone close enough to reach out and "touch" them? Chuck

 

[TheJ]

Well, I just got off the phone with Holley and they are sending me screws free of charge. I'm very pleased with there customer service, they have a call back feature where they call you back instead of waiting on hold. I found that very nice. Anyhow I may still get some screws from the hardware store for the time being because I doubt they will come by this weekend.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

get longer screws and nuts thread the nuts on, turn the screws into the housing , cut the heads off, back off the nuts to clean the threads and you will have converted to a stud system that eliminated most of the risk of tearing a diaphragm during the installation.

read that tip sometime ago and filed it away in my head just for this occasion.

 

[TheJ]

get longer screws and nuts thread the nuts on, turn the screws into the housing , cut the heads off, back off the nuts to clean the threads and you will have converted to a stud system that eliminated most of the risk of tearing a diaphragm during the installation.

read that tip sometime ago and filed it away in my head just for this occasion.

Thanks for the tip, I'll have to give that a try.

 

[TheJ]

It's just one thing after another with this motor. At least I caught this before I went to put the motor in the truck. The old carb has a different way of connecting the throttle and kick down cables then the "new" holley. Is there a way to convert the holley to the ford style cables?

red is the throttle cable connector and blue is the kick down cable connector.

heres the holley

Thanks for looking.

 

[c9zx]

This should help. http://www.holley.com/20-2.asp

May need this as well, but I don't think so if you use the lower hole on the Holley. http://www.holley.com/26-103.asp

Keep after it, you are getting there. Chuck

 

[TheJ]

This should help. http://www.holley.com/20-2.asp

May need this as well, but I don't think so if you use the lower hole on the Holley. http://www.holley.com/26-103.asp

Keep after it, you are getting there. Chuck

Thank you so much Chuck. Where do you think I could put the kick down cable on the holley?

 

[c9zx]

This should help. http://www.holley.com/20-2.asp

May need this as well, but I don't think so if you use the lower hole on the Holley. http://www.holley.com/26-103.asp

Keep after it, you are getting there. Chuck

Thank you so much Chuck. Where do you think I could put the kick down cable on the holley?

Jayson, I don't know of a way to use that base plate and make the Ford kick down work. However I'm not that familiar with the trucks. Is the kick down a long tubular rod or is it a cable? What year and model is the truck maybe I can do a little looking for you.

Update: I looked at an old post, 1984 F-350, 351W 2V. Looked up the original carb, as well as the pictures you posted. It seems to use the tubular rod with a flat spot and nylon bushing at each end, retained by C clips. If that is correct you are going to need a base plate with the Ford kick down linkage. I wish I was of more help. You might try posting in "want to buy". Chuck

 

[TheJ]

This should help. http://www.holley.com/20-2.asp

May need this as well, but I don't think so if you use the lower hole on the Holley. http://www.holley.com/26-103.asp

Keep after it, you are getting there. Chuck

Thank you so much Chuck. Where do you think I could put the kick down cable on the holley?

Jayson, I don't know of a way to use that throttle plate and make the Ford kick down work. However I'm not that familiar with the trucks. Is the kick down a long tubular rod or is it a cable? What year and model is the truck maybe I can do a little looking for you.

If I remember correctly it's a rod. The truck is a 84 F350.


I went ahead and ordered this http://www.holley.com/20-48-1.asp when I ordered the throttle stud kit, that should take care of kickdown problem.

 

[TheJ]

I started rebuilding the carb today and everything was going well. Then I took the accel pump cover off an noticed that one of the screws went all the way through. I'm not a holley expert but I don't think its' supposed to be like this.

here are some pics.

You can tell that the top right hole is bigger and goes all the way through. So I think that it got stripped and who ever rebuilt it before drilled it all the way through. How do I fix this? Can I just silicon the screw or do I fill in the hole with JB weld and retap the hole to fit a larger screw?

Thanks for looking.

 

[MotoArts]

Replace the bowl.

 

[TheJ]

Replace the bowl.

I was afraid of that. What can I do in the mean time because I'm trying to get it done for the weekend.

 

[MotoArts]

I wouldn't bother, personally. It's a world of hate just waiting to happen.

For a temporary fix, I would rough up the inside of the bowl around that hole to give JB Weld something to bite to. Grind screw flush with inside threads. Put a drop of grease on the screw as a release agent so the epoxy wouldn't stick to it, run it in, then blob the hole shut. Let it cure, remove and shorten the screw a wee bit again, and reinstall.

Never, ever use RTV on any fuel related sealing issues. Ever. It turns to snot.

I've used Metalset epoxy (looks similar to JB) on those dime sized plugs on fuel bowls where the balance tube goes on Holleys. The carb never leaked there again, but I still wouldn't trust it at the bottom like that. It's a super easy bowl to find used and replace. Actually I recently threw some away. I'll check and see if I have any more in the "collection".

Pump cover needs replaced too.

Sounds like you're getting your Holley education on this one! I always get the willys when I find one Mickey Mouse fix on something... means there's more mouse shizz hiding SOMEWHERE else...

 

[TheJ]

I wouldn't bother, personally. It's a world of hate just waiting to happen.

For a temporary fix, I would rough up the inside of the bowl around that hole to give JB Weld something to bite to. Grind screw flush with inside threads. Put a drop of grease on the screw as a release agent so the epoxy wouldn't stick to it, run it in, then blob the hole shut. Let it cure, remove and shorten the screw a wee bit again, and reinstall.

Never, ever use RTV on any fuel related sealing issues. Ever. It turns to snot.

I've used Metalset epoxy (looks similar to JB) on those dime sized plugs on fuel bowls where the balance tube goes on Holleys. The carb never leaked there again, but I still wouldn't trust it at the bottom like that. It's a super easy bowl to find used and replace. Actually I recently threw some away. I'll check and see if I have any more in the "collection".

Pump cover needs replaced too.

Sounds like you're getting your Holley education on this one! I always get the willys when I find one Mickey Mouse fix on something... means there's more mouse shizz hiding SOMEWHERE else...

It has defiantly been a learning experience so far. If you have one that would be awesome. I'm looking at one on ebay that's only at 99 cents plus shipping right now with a day and a half left on the clock.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150851530988&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

I was thinking what if I instead of a screw I JB weld in a stud into the hole and threads.

Thanks for the info and input.

 

[c9zx]

If you can't replace the bowl you could use this product, http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/518-EN.pdf I've not used it for the exact purpose you need it for but the product details indicate it should work. Chuck

Permatex 51817 looks to be the same thing but, I can't confirm that.

 

[MotoArts]

Sorry J, I'm out.

Figures, that parts carb sat around here for 12+ years...

 

[TheJ]

Sorry J, I'm out.

Figures, that parts carb sat around here for 12+ years...

That's ok, thanks for checking though. I'll probably just get the one on ebay I posted. For now I just JB welded a stud in the hole and hopefully this will hold until the other one gets here.

 

[TheJ]

Well, I missed out on the ebay fuel bowl because I woke up late. But I did "fix" the old one and am looking at another one.

Here are some pics.