351w build [UPDATE]

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Well, I got the motor and trans in the truck. It's coming together slowly but surely, we had a few difficulties with the chain falls. Got the headers on pretty painlessly and they fit perfectly. Quick question, does it matter if the coil is tilted down?

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Thanks for looking.

 
Is it oil filled or gell filled. I have heard that the oil filled could possibly leak so just keep an eye on it. It should be fine
I believe it is oil filled so I'll keep and eye on it.

After looking through the old parts I found the pcv valve connected to the egr plate, which I'm not using anymore. So where can I connect the pcv up to?

Thanks again for everybody's responses. I really appreciate all the help, since this is my first complete engine build.

 
After looking through the old parts I found the pcv valve connected to the egr plate, which I'm not using anymore. So where can I connect the pcv up to?

Any manifold vacuum source (ie. the vac tree on an intake runner, usually behind the carb).

 
You could drill at tap a 1 inch 4 hole spacer to accept a nipple for the PCV hose. Don't drill it all the way through for the nipple. Stop short and drill 2 1/8 holes from the inside of the spacer into the hole drilled for the nipple. The 4 hole spacer should also add some low to mid-range torque. If the spacer is metal consider using a heat isolator. It looks like a really thick carb to manifold gasket with reinforcements at the stud holes. This helps delay/avoid fuel percolation in the carb. Chuck

 
Ok, thanks. I'm just going to put to manifold vacuum for now. Does anybody have the engine wiring diagram for a 84 F350?

 
Update time, I got everything pretty much buttoned up. Radiator is in and hooked up, and I got the accessories bolted on and the belts installed. I had a problem with the alternator wiring being corroded so I made a new harness for a whopping 5 bucks. Somebody (me) got a cam for a 302 and didn't know it so needless to say the first time I started it it ran very rough with the wrong firing order (it has the correct firing order know). Also, I got the gauges wired up and ready to install. Wiring tip: if you need to make a splice and you want to solder the wires together get your self an auto wire stripper (http://www.amazon.com/GB-SE-94-10-gauge-26-gauge-Automatic/dp/B00004WLL0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345264343&sr=8-2&keywords=auto+stripper) and "strip" the wire anywhere along the wire and it will create a 1/4" of bare wire for you. I always use heatshrink with the sealant inside.

Here are some pictures of the gauges.

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4 pin molex connectors.

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More pics and maybe some videos to come on Sunday.

Thanks for looking.

 
Good work Jayson! You are not the only person caught by the two different firing orders issue. Chuck

 
Good work Jayson! You are not the only person caught by the two different firing orders issue. Chuck
When I first started it, it ran really rough and I thought to myself "I'm not an expert but that doesn't sound right." Gas dripping out of the headers also pointed to something being very off.

 
You should prominently label the intake with the correct firing order and maybe even indicate "302 cam" so that any future owner knows what is going on. You might even grind the firing order off the intake and hand stamp it with the proper firing order

 
Thanks guys, I'll figure out something about the manifold firing order. Everything is working well but when I turn the headlights on the oil pressure gauge drops maybe 10psi and the water temp increases 5-10deg. The voltage doesn't hardly change, I checked it with a multimeter maybe .1 of a volt. What could cause this?

 
your gauges use a ground that alters resistance. You have a wiring issue, maybe a corroded ground strap from engine to body?
I replaced both the chassis and engine grounds. I'm not getting any real voltage drop to the motor or chassis.

 
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