'71 Mustang clicking issue

[Stanglover]

This looks pretty awesome, actually.  ::thumb::

As mentioned earlier, I'd get in contact with Kevin Marti and run what you have as the VIN from under one of the fenders.  Just for grins, bounce it against the door tag (if it's still there) - if it matches, then you should have the entire VIN from the tag, which will confirm if it's a Boss, Mach 1, or Sportsroof.  It would be cool if the door VIN tag matched the stampings and it turns out to be a poorly cared-for Boss 351 - got 'em crossed for ya (the exhaust cut-outs in the rear valance make me think that maybe it's an M-Code, though).

The headliner's not to bad to replace, either.  That'll make a huge difference once you get that done.

Lovin' the Cragars with spinners, too.

+ 1 on the door tag, plate, sticker or whatever people call it. Hopefully it is there, not painted over or a replaced door.

As mentioned earlier, there is a chance the build sheet(s) are still under the rear carpet pad. That would be the ultimate find for this car. A Boss VIN would be 1f02R213XXX.

 

[Heardatbeat]

This looks pretty awesome, actually.  ::thumb::

As mentioned earlier, I'd get in contact with Kevin Marti and run what you have as the VIN from under one of the fenders.  Just for grins, bounce it against the door tag (if it's still there) - if it matches, then you should have the entire VIN from the tag, which will confirm if it's a Boss, Mach 1, or Sportsroof.  It would be cool if the door VIN tag matched the stampings and it turns out to be a poorly cared-for Boss 351 - got 'em crossed for ya (the exhaust cut-outs in the rear valance make me think that maybe it's an M-Code, though).

The headliner's not to bad to replace, either.  That'll make a huge difference once you get that done.

Lovin' the Cragars with spinners, too.

Unfortunately there is no door tag so no way to cross reference that. I am calling Marti today to ask what they could do. And as for the Boss. The tag would not tell us that because if you guys remember the engine was supposedly replaced with a Boss engine. But I have known from the beginning that the car itself was not a Boss. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[Stanglover]

This looks pretty awesome, actually.  ::thumb::

As mentioned earlier, I'd get in contact with Kevin Marti and run what you have as the VIN from under one of the fenders.  Just for grins, bounce it against the door tag (if it's still there) - if it matches, then you should have the entire VIN from the tag, which will confirm if it's a Boss, Mach 1, or Sportsroof.  It would be cool if the door VIN tag matched the stampings and it turns out to be a poorly cared-for Boss 351 - got 'em crossed for ya (the exhaust cut-outs in the rear valance make me think that maybe it's an M-Code, though).

The headliner's not to bad to replace, either.  That'll make a huge difference once you get that done.

Lovin' the Cragars with spinners, too.

Unfortunately there is no door tag so no way to cross reference that. I am calling Marti today to ask what they could do. And as for the Boss. The tag would not tell us that because if you guys remember the engine was supposedly replaced with a Boss engine. But I have known from the beginning that the car itself was not a Boss. Sorry for the confusion.

Ah! yes of course. I can only speak for myself, I do get carried away a bit sometimes.

Hopefully Marti will help identify your "mystery car". Let us know what you find out. Still look for the build sheet when you get to that part of the restoration.

If you hadn't thought about it, this all adds volumes to the "story" about your car. When you do get it finished, perhaps you'll show it. You'll be amazed how interested people are in the "story" behind the car. I find that everywhere I show mine and it makes for a fun day.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Exactly.  Even though mine is 'just an H-Code,' they usually want to know about it and often crack up when I tell my story.  Of course, I use terms like, "I bought it from a Gas Monkey wanna-be car flipper," "block of rust in the shape of a Mustang," "Fred Flintstone floors," and (my favorite) "Redneck Gas Tank Hammock" (when I describe the klooged-together dee-vice used to hold the gas tank in the car after the trunk pan finally gave up to the rust).  Then I show the pictures (I keep an HP Slate with me when I'm out in the car with all the pics), and their mouths usually drop open.

The Story is half the fun. ::thumb::

 

[Heardatbeat]

Quick little update. Called Marti Report. They said they were able to do a partial VIN research. Costs about 25 more but totally worth it. I got the one right below the premium one so I could get as much info as I can from the VIN. And for Saturday I intend to remove the valve covers so I can see if I can find the cast numbers on the heads. I have a stripped shock tower bolt so I have to cut it. But I already ordered a new set so those should be here next week. Any one got any recommendations on motor and transmission mounts. The vibration may be coming from the tranny. What leads me to believe that is the shifter shakes like a madman when I put it in gear. And gets worse as the RPMs go up.

 

[waterlife]

I read thru the thread and watched the video, I am surprised no one thinks the engine has a miss. Looks like it to me, 1 or 2 dead cylinders. The noise is valve train for sure, bad lifter/rocker loose.

 

[Heardatbeat]

I read thru the thread and watched the video, I am surprised no one thinks the engine has a miss. Looks like it to me, 1 or 2 dead cylinders. The noise is valve train for sure, bad lifter/rocker loose.

It is funny you say that. The mechanic that had it also said it may be a dead #2 cylinder. What does that mean exactly?

 

[waterlife]

I read thru the thread and watched the video, I am surprised no one thinks the engine has a miss. Looks like it to me, 1 or 2 dead cylinders. The noise is valve train for sure, bad lifter/rocker loose.

It is funny you say that. The mechanic that had it also said it may be a dead #2 cylinder. What does that mean exactly?

That means your engine is bad. I can tell there is a bad cyl. or 2 just by your short video. Your mechanic sucks if he cant tell you a cyl is dead. I will tell you exactly what happened, he suckered you into spending money on another issue, now covering his ass with other assumptions. Dont feel bad, we all have been taken  befor.

 

[Heardatbeat]

I read thru the thread and watched the video, I am surprised no one thinks the engine has a miss. Looks like it to me, 1 or 2 dead cylinders. The noise is valve train for sure, bad lifter/rocker loose.

It is funny you say that. The mechanic that had it also said it may be a dead #2 cylinder. What does that mean exactly?

That means your engine is bad. I can tell there is a bad cyl. or 2 just by your short video. Your mechanic sucks if he cant tell you a cyl is dead. I will tell you exactly what happened, he suckered you into spending money on another issue, now covering his ass with other assumptions. Dont feel bad, we all have been taken  befor.

He did a compression test and said it was good. I don't know if that has any bearing on the cylinders. Just thought it should be known.

 

[waterlife]

you need to scrap everything your first mechanic said, hes full of crap

 

[Stanglover]

I read thru the thread and watched the video, I am surprised no one thinks the engine has a miss. Looks like it to me, 1 or 2 dead cylinders. The noise is valve train for sure, bad lifter/rocker loose.

 That is probably because no-one thinks it does have a miss. Without re-reading entirely, I thought someone did mention a bad plug or wire. My engine will run on 7 with hardly any noticeable shaking or vibration. 6 might make a pronounced vibration, not had that issue.

I do think it is valve train as well, but then I'm not a mechanic, just handy with wrenches.

EDIT: I got ahead of myself a bit here as I missed the latest post.

 

[waterlife]

I would buy a compression tester, $25 or so and start there.

 

[Heardatbeat]

I would buy a compression tester, $25 or so and start there.

I am gonna go buy one at my local autoshop store and also removing the heads is on the agenda today.

 

[waterlife]

Dont pull the heads, wasting your time. Do the test first and see. If compression bad, pull engine and have it overhauled

 

[Stanglover]

I would buy a compression tester, $25 or so and start there.

I am gonna go buy one at my local autoshop store and also removing the heads is on the agenda today.

Post your readings first before moving ahead with ripping into the engine. I assume you know the cylinder order on a Cleveland, but if not, looking at it from the front, #'s 1234 are on the left, 1 being the first cylinder, #'s 5678 on the right, 8 being the rear cylinder. I'm likely stating what you already know, but you're looking for pressures around 180 psi +/- 10% and could be higher depending on the compression ratio. Mine run between 195 to 210 with 10:1 pistons. Almost forgot, pull ALL the plugs first. Makes for easier cranking. I use a remote cranking switch as well so I don't have to keep going to the key or have someone else do it.

Getting to be "fun" isn't it!!

 

[waterlife]

I would buy a compression tester, $25 or so and start there.

I am gonna go buy one at my local autoshop store and also removing the heads is on the agenda today.

Post your readings first before moving ahead with ripping into the engine. I assume you know the cylinder order on a Cleveland, but if not, looking at it from the front, #'s 1234 are on the left, 1 being the first cylinder, #'s 5678 on the right, 8 being the rear cylinder. I'm likely stating what you already know, but you're looking for pressures around 180 psi +/- 10% and could be higher depending on the compression ratio. Mine run between 195 to 210 with 10:1 pistons. Almost forgot, pull ALL the plugs first. Makes for easier cranking. I use a remote cranking switch as well so I don't have to keep going to the key or have someone else do it.

Getting to be "fun" isn't it!!

I was going to tell him any # above 125 lbs would be acceptable. Dont forget, were talking about a 45yrs old engine

 

[Stanglover]

I am gonna go buy one at my local autoshop store and also removing the heads is on the agenda today.

Post your readings first before moving ahead with ripping into the engine. I assume you know the cylinder order on a Cleveland, but if not, looking at it from the front, #'s 1234 are on the left, 1 being the first cylinder, #'s 5678 on the right, 8 being the rear cylinder. I'm likely stating what you already know, but you're looking for pressures around 180 psi +/- 10% and could be higher depending on the compression ratio. Mine run between 195 to 210 with 10:1 pistons. Almost forgot, pull ALL the plugs first. Makes for easier cranking. I use a remote cranking switch as well so I don't have to keep going to the key or have someone else do it.

Getting to be "fun" isn't it!!

I was going to tell him any # above 125 lbs would be acceptable. Dont forget, were talking about  a 45yrs old engine

 True. At this point, I guess as long as they are all somewhat even in pressure. Don't forget this is "supposed" to be a Boss engine. We'll have to see what numbers get posted. I'm no engine expert at all, I just know what it ought to be for a 71 4V.

 

[Don C]

The information in these posts may help you:

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-how-to-compression-test-the-engine

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-compression-altitude-calculations

 

[Heardatbeat]

I am gonna go buy one at my local autoshop store and also removing the heads is on the agenda today.

Post your readings first before moving ahead with ripping into the engine. I assume you know the cylinder order on a Cleveland, but if not, looking at it from the front, #'s 1234 are on the left, 1 being the first cylinder, #'s 5678 on the right, 8 being the rear cylinder. I'm likely stating what you already know, but you're looking for pressures around 180 psi +/- 10% and could be higher depending on the compression ratio. Mine run between 195 to 210 with 10:1 pistons. Almost forgot, pull ALL the plugs first. Makes for easier cranking. I use a remote cranking switch as well so I don't have to keep going to the key or have someone else do it.

Getting to be "fun" isn't it!!

I was going to tell him any # above 125 lbs would be acceptable. Dont forget, were talking about  a 45yrs old engine

Bought a compression tester. Gonna do that and pull the valve covers off as well. I meant to say that. I am not pulling the heads just yet. Plus this is my first time doing any of this so this will be not only informative and fun.

 

[Stanglover]

Post your readings first before moving ahead with ripping into the engine. I assume you know the cylinder order on a Cleveland, but if not, looking at it from the front, #'s 1234 are on the left, 1 being the first cylinder, #'s 5678 on the right, 8 being the rear cylinder. I'm likely stating what you already know, but you're looking for pressures around 180 psi +/- 10% and could be higher depending on the compression ratio. Mine run between 195 to 210 with 10:1 pistons. Almost forgot, pull ALL the plugs first. Makes for easier cranking. I use a remote cranking switch as well so I don't have to keep going to the key or have someone else do it.

Getting to be "fun" isn't it!!

I was going to tell him any # above 125 lbs would be acceptable. Dont forget, were talking about  a 45yrs old engine

Bought a compression tester. Gonna do that and pull the valve covers off as well. I meant to say that. I am not pulling the heads just yet. Plus this is my first time doing any of this so this will be not only informative and fun.

 That's good. I actually thought you meant to say valve covers.

 If you have a compressor ( for tires maybe), do you have a blow nozzle to blow any crap away from the plugs BEFORE you take them out? Saves getting crap into a cylinder and that can really ruin your day. Just take your time and you'll be fine. I usually do mine a couple of times to cross check the numbers. Good luck and keep us posted.