'71 Mustang clicking issue

[Heardatbeat]

I was going to tell him any # above 125 lbs would be acceptable. Dont forget, were talking about  a 45yrs old engine

Bought a compression tester. Gonna do that and pull the valve covers off as well. I meant to say that. I am not pulling the heads just yet. Plus this is my first time doing any of this so this will be not only informative and fun.

 That's good. I actually thought you meant to say valve covers.

 If you have a compressor ( for tires maybe), do you have a blow nozzle to blow any crap away from the plugs BEFORE you take them out? Saves getting crap into a cylinder and that can really ruin your day. Just take your time and you'll be fine. I usually do mine a couple of times to cross check the numbers. Good luck and keep us posted.

Thanks for the tips! As soon as I get all the reading I will post my findings. I am also pulling the valve covers off and taking some pictures. You guys can probably tell me more by looking at a photo than I can even though the car is in my presence.  lollerz

 

[waterlife]

take a video, slowly moving back and forth over the head, valve cover off and engine running. Will make a little mess, but not much

 

[Mister 4x4]

Rather than declare that something "is" or "isn't" from the far reaches of the internet, I'd recommend checking all the wires, inspecting the inside of the distributor cap, pulling all the plugs (to make sure one or two aren't fouled or otherwise), and see what you have.  Those things are free.

If it's still not right after that, get a compression test done to verify if #2 or any other cylinders are having issues.  Following that, check the valve train for out-of-adjustment valve lash - probably right where the 'bad' cylinder is (if at all), and then start thinking the worst if still nothing shows up.  But even then, bad head & intake gaskets can offer up similar symptoms... and even so, re-ringing a cylinder (or all of them) isn't a death certificate by any means - just more work.

Declaring that 'the engine is junk' based on what little actual information has been provided is a little too aggressive at this point, IMHO.

 

[Heardatbeat]

Ok! So I finished a bit ago (had to go eat first   ) I finally got some result on the compression test. I only did a "dry" test and if more test are required I will go ahead and do them. Here is what I got, these are of course in psi. I also got a number for the dipstick. D0AE-6750A

Cylinder 1: 180

Cylinder 2: 185

Cylinder 3: 180

Cylinder 4: 170

Cylinder 5: 170

Cylinder 6: 180

Cylinder 7: 160

Cylinder 8: 165

I also took some photos of the heads so we can see what it has. The valve cover had some milky white liquid on the inside of it that does not look normal. The rocker arms had just a hair of play to them. Is that normal or should I torque them down again?

 

[waterlife]

All looks good so far. Dont worry about the milky stuff, its from the car sitting and not being driven.

 

[waterlife]

Clean plugs, reassemble and make sure you follow the correct firing order

 

[waterlife]

the dip stick is 351 c

 

[Heardatbeat]

My next thing is to do a complete tune-up. Then change the harmonic balancer.

 

[piper62j]

Pull the starter and look up at the block. (Might need to clean the area) there are engine numbers stamped there on a flat boss).  Attached are the 351C codes.

 

[piper62j]

Here is a link to the Ford casting numbers for all engines..  Should help.

http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/engine2.html

 

[Heardatbeat]

Pull the starter and look up at the block. (Might need to clean the area) there are engine numbers stamped there on a flat boss).  Attached are the 351C codes.

I was suggested to pull the starter a few posts back. My block is D0AE-L. With a 1050 number below it. How do I find out if it is 2 or 4 bolt main?

 

[Stanglover]

Here is a link to the Ford casting numbers for all engines..  Should help.

http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/engine2.html

Sorry to be a bit too picky, but the list is incorrect and incomplete for the 71 listing. It lists a Boss block as D2XXX and does not show the more common D0AE-L blocks.

There are other list available with a Google search, 351 Cleveland and Ford block Specs, got me a better list a couple of years ago. Also got 351 Cleveland and Ford Head Specs as well as others following that format.

Probably the better website is www.mustangtek.com IMO.

 

[Stanglover]

Ok! So I finished a bit ago (had to go eat first   ) I finally got some result on the compression test. I only did a "dry" test and if more test are required I will go ahead and do them. Here is what I got, these are of course in psi. I also got a number for the dipstick. D0AE-6750A

Cylinder 1: 180

Cylinder 2: 185

Cylinder 3: 180

Cylinder 4: 170

Cylinder 5: 170

Cylinder 6: 180

Cylinder 7: 160

Cylinder 8: 165

I also took some photos of the heads so we can see what it has. The valve cover had some milky white liquid on the inside of it that does not look normal. The rocker arms had just a hair of play to them. Is that normal or should I torque them down again?

 From what I see, not too bad, 7 & 8 are down a bit but only in the 10% range. The head is 1970 Nov 10, 0-L-10 and is a 351C stock head. I do see that the oil guides over the push rods are in rough shape and one is broken off. You have hydraulic lifters, not a Boss with solid mechanical lifters. Do the heads have a 4 or 4* (dot) in the top left corner just outside the valve cover?? Oh here's a tip, get RUBBER valve cover gaskets, you can take them off and on several times and they don't leak!

As far as I can see, you still a very good engine to work with. The more knowledgeable members can guide you far better as to what can be achieved with it.

As for the plugs, replace them, but imo, do not use Champion plugs. I never had any luck with those in the 351C 4V. In my engine, the plugs do get black if the car is only idled and not run hard. I run Motorcraft. Look up the correct plug heat range, I don't have it at hand.

All the best moving forward.

 

[Heardatbeat]

Ok! So I finished a bit ago (had to go eat first   ) I finally got some result on the compression test. I only did a "dry" test and if more test are required I will go ahead and do them. Here is what I got, these are of course in psi. I also got a number for the dipstick. D0AE-6750A

Cylinder 1: 180

Cylinder 2: 185

Cylinder 3: 180

Cylinder 4: 170

Cylinder 5: 170

Cylinder 6: 180

Cylinder 7: 160

Cylinder 8: 165

I also took some photos of the heads so we can see what it has. The valve cover had some milky white liquid on the inside of it that does not look normal. The rocker arms had just a hair of play to them. Is that normal or should I torque them down again?

 From what I see, not too bad, 7 & 8 are down a bit but only in the 10% range. The head is 1970 Nov 10, 0-L-10 and is a 351C stock head. I do see that the oil guides over the push rods are in rough shape and one is broken off. You have hydraulic lifters, not a Boss with solid mechanical lifters. Do the heads have a 4 or 4* (dot) in the top left corner just outside the valve cover?? Oh here's a tip, get RUBBER valve cover gaskets, you can take them off and on several times and they don't leak!

As far as I can see, you still a very good engine to work with. The more knowledgeable members can guide you far better as to what can be achieved with it.

As for the plugs, replace them, but imo, do not use Champion plugs. I never had any luck with those in the 351C 4V. In my engine, the plugs do get black if the car is only idled and not run hard. I run Motorcraft. Look up the correct plug heat range, I don't have it at hand.

All the best moving forward.

Right on! Well it is a shame it is not a Boss engine. Especially since that was a selling point. But I am still happy with knowing what it is. At least now I can move forward and know what sort of parts I can order. The heads do have a 4 but it is on the bottom left hand corner (I will double check on that but I know there is a 4 there). And I did buy a few things for it yesterday mainly a whole tune up. I actually DID order at rubber gasket for the valve covers.  And I got some iridium spark plugs since they have a rebate right now so you basically get them for half off. A new coil, spark plug cables and since I am in there I am getting rid of the points and putting a Pertronix Ignitor II in the distributor.

 

[Don C]

Did you watch all of the rocker arms, while cranking, to make sure they are all moving their full stroke?

The milky looking substance is moisture mixed with oil and the moisture should evaporate when the engine is warmed up and driven some.

 

[Heardatbeat]

Did you watch all of the rocker arms, while cranking, to make sure they are all moving their full stroke?

The milky looking substance is moisture mixed with oil and the moisture should evaporate when the engine is warmed up and driven some.

No. I ran out of time. I will on my next day off. It looks like one is missing some sort of guard or plate or something. If you look at the photos it is the furthest right one. I should probably get new rocker arms and lifters.

 

[Stanglover]

 From what I see, not too bad, 7 & 8 are down a bit but only in the 10% range. The head is 1970 Nov 10, 0-L-10 and is a 351C stock head. I do see that the oil guides over the push rods are in rough shape and one is broken off. You have hydraulic lifters, not a Boss with solid mechanical lifters. Do the heads have a 4 or 4* (dot) in the top left corner just outside the valve cover?? Oh here's a tip, get RUBBER valve cover gaskets, you can take them off and on several times and they don't leak!

As far as I can see, you still a very good engine to work with. The more knowledgeable members can guide you far better as to what can be achieved with it.

As for the plugs, replace them, but imo, do not use Champion plugs. I never had any luck with those in the 351C 4V. In my engine, the plugs do get black if the car is only idled and not run hard. I run Motorcraft. Look up the correct plug heat range, I don't have it at hand.

All the best moving forward.

Right on! Well it is a shame it is not a Boss engine. Especially since that was a selling point. But I am still happy with knowing what it is. At least now I can move forward and know what sort of parts I can order. The heads do have a 4 but it is on the bottom left hand corner (I will double check on that but I know there is a 4 there). And I did buy a few things for it yesterday mainly a whole tune up. I actually DID order at rubber gasket for the valve covers.  And I got some iridium spark plugs since they have a rebate right now so you basically get them for half off. A new coil, spark plug cables and since I am in there I am getting rid of the points and putting a Pertronix Ignitor II in the distributor.

  Okay sounds good. I think some people seem to think every 4 V engine was a Boss engine!!

If I can offer some advice from my own experience, the Pertronix Ignitor II is an excellent choice, BUT you MUST run a Flamethrower II coil or it won't last very long. They're not that much more than a regular coil. Also before you put the module in, make sure that the base plate is moving freely and you connect the bare ground wire. Moving forward, I expect you'll need to rebuild the dizzy or get a new one. Again from my own point of view, the aftermarket one just don't look right compared to the stock look. A Duraspark is a good choice, but it does have a module that needs to be 'hidden' someplace. It has been posted before about what needs done to a Motorcraft dizzy optimal for the 4 speed and that may help later.

For now, I guess you just need to get the motor running better so you can get a clear idea as to its condition before deciding on big expenditures........... like a total rebuild!! In that event, PLEASE find someone well experience with Cleveland's. That mistake cost me a second rebuild last year..... and I'm still keeping my fingers crossed my engine is good!

 

[Stanglover]

Did you watch all of the rocker arms, while cranking, to make sure they are all moving their full stroke?

The milky looking substance is moisture mixed with oil and the moisture should evaporate when the engine is warmed up and driven some.

No. I ran out of time. I will on my next day off. It looks like one is missing some sort of guard or plate or something. If you look at the photos it is the furthest right one. I should probably get new rocker arms and lifters.

 Not so fast there. You can get just the oil guides I'm sure. I'm sure more experienced guys like Don C will agree, don't get too far into that engine just yet. Do the basics and then get advice on the next move.

 

[Stanglover]

Just thought I'd show this picture of the 4* (dot) on my engine, just to show the location. Not very clear, but it's on the corner of the head by the valve cover.

EDIT NOTE: as your head is a 1970 date, if it is a 4V, it will be Closed Chamber (CC) @ 62.8 cc volume (supposed) If it is a 2 V it will be open chambered.

 

[Don C]

I agree, no reason to order new rocker arms. What you have missing is a splash shield and is not a critical component. I don't believe new rocker arms come with them, anyway. If you decide to make performance improvements some day you can install roller rockers then.

Wait until you finish diagnosing your​ engine before making up an order list.

I would remove a couple of the loose rocker arms to look at the condition of the rocker arms and fulcrums. If your engine hasn't been run for a while the looseness is likely because the oil has bled out of the lifters.