72 & 73 mach 1

[71miguel73]

hello i'm looking to purchase my first 71-73 mustang. I came across these two and i would like you guys too tell me what there worth or whats a good price to pay for them. I believe the orangish in is a 73 mach 1 Q code And the other is also a mach 1 but its an H code. they both look solid too me but would like someones experienced opinion. thanks (sorry didn't let me post link from FB)

The 73 he is asking $15,400

(description):

Mach 1 has P.S. P.D.B.. Interior is very nice. Runs and drives excellent. 351-4V, auto, factory tach. and gauges.

The 72 he is asking $15,000

(Description):1972 Mustang Mach1 for sale. It hasn’t had anything done to it in years. It definitely needs a good cleaning and my husband is not able to do anything with it anymore. He’s just not able and I’m not either. It won’t run right now because it needs a new battery and a few more things done to it. SERIOUS INQUIRES ONLY! I don’t have time for people that just “want to look at it”. I’m constantly going to doctors appointments, so I’m busy. There is one photo of it when it was clean and running. It will just set here and go down more and we thought someone might want it and love like we have. Has a 351 Cleveland.

 

[71miguel73]

pics of 72

 

[Studdley]

If the grey one fires up if you put a battery in it and it drives, that seems like a little steep, since it has been sitting. It'll need all new fluids and the gas tank flushed. If anything leaks it'll be under the car which makes it easy to find. The Orange one seems about right. For both I'd ask for vins to make sure that they are real Mach 1's and also get a good look under the car to to check for rust. A test drive can really reveal a lot about a car.

 

[kcmash]

pics of 72

Tough call there.  Obviously both have been restored to some level so it is going to be highly dependent on the quality of the work,

The 73:  Looks clean and correct in the gold with the ginger interior and they say it runs and drives great.  With a correct looking Q-Code engine bay it looks like a pretty good buy it and drive it vehicle.  EXCEPT for the battery charger in the one shot.  Is it just an old battery, or does it have charging problems that will emerge after purchase.  

After that its creeper time!  What are the floor pans like?  What leak evidence is underneath, how do the internal 1/4's look.  If it looks amazingly clean underneath and does good in a test drive try to get it for $12K and smile the whole way home,  if it looks questionable underneath, try for $10K if it still drives good.

The 72:  Clean looking car that is well optioned for an H code!  Folding rear seat, Power windows, console, guages, and the silver and black look nice.  This couple looks like they don't have time for it and are at a stage in life where the hospital visits are surpassing the hobby time.  I am personally not a fan of dogs in cars, they can scratch a lot of stuff up so the picture with the Sheltie in the interior did not impress me.  Anyway, this car has a few mods, the keystone classic wheels (which look great on that car), Painted on stripes, and some mods to the rear 1/4 interior panels.  The fading and discoloration on the steering column and horn pad are not a major issue, but I am unsure of the general condition of the interior.  Nice looking original front bumper.  Hard to find for the 71s and 2s

The big alarms here are the fact that it is not clean and running, and they don't have time to get it there.  Will it easily start so you can test drive it?  Are they selling as a non-runner( offer them $8K for a non runner.  I found a 73 non-runner Mach here in Kansas City for $8K)  After that, do the same as on the 73 above.  Look for leaks, floor pan repairs, low quality bodywork. etc.  If it can start and drives nice with clean bodywork try to get it for $12k and promise to send them pictures.

kcmash

PS: The 73 is a non-AC car, which may not bode well in Texas.

 

[71miguel73]

pics of 72

Tough call there.  Obviously both have been restored to some level so it is going to be highly dependent on the quality of the work,

The 73:  Looks clean and correct in the gold with the ginger interior and they say it runs and drives great.  With a correct looking Q-Code engine bay it looks like a pretty good buy it and drive it vehicle.  EXCEPT for the battery charger in the one shot.  Is it just an old battery, or does it have charging problems that will emerge after purchase.  

After that its creeper time!  What are the floor pans like?  What leak evidence is underneath, how do the internal 1/4's look.  If it looks amazingly clean underneath and does good in a test drive try to get it for $12K and smile the whole way home,  if it looks questionable underneath, try for $10K if it still drives good.

The 72:  Clean looking car that is well optioned for an H code!  Folding rear seat, Power windows, console, guages, and the silver and black look nice.  This couple looks like they don't have time for it and are at a stage in life where the hospital visits are surpassing the hobby time.  I am personally not a fan of dogs in cars, they can scratch a lot of stuff up so the picture with the Sheltie in the interior did not impress me.  Anyway, this car has a few mods, the keystone classic wheels (which look great on that car), Painted on stripes, and some mods to the rear 1/4 interior panels.  The fading and discoloration on the steering column and horn pad are not a major issue, but I am unsure of the general condition of the interior.  Nice looking original front bumper.  Hard to find for the 71s and 2s

The big alarms here are the fact that it is not clean and running, and they don't have time to get it there.  Will it easily start so you can test drive it?  Are they selling as a non-runner( offer them $8K for a non runner.  I found a 73 non-runner Mach here in Kansas City for $8K)  After that, do the same as on the 73 above.  Look for leaks, floor pan repairs, low quality bodywork. etc.  If it can start and drives nice with clean bodywork try to get it for $12k and promise to send them pictures.

kcmash

Thanks sounds like great advise

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[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Proceed with caution for sure. Do not buy or give deposit without laying hands on the cars. I have 7, 72 &73 so know them pretty good.

The 73 has a very incorrect restoration. They did not come with the CJ engine in 73 so the stock looking chrome lid air cleaner is off a 72 probably.

No attention to details under the hood lots of rattle can restore.

Not many options and the std interior was the low end for interior.

The hood should have had flat paint for the black and the shape is wrong also see pic of my original below.

The 72 does have better options for sure. The PW can require some work especially the rear. You cannot get replacement motors for rear only rebuilt which is tricky.

The left front fender for sure has been in some kind of accident and paint does not match. You need to look very close. The speaker holes in the back can do big damage to the reinforcements on each side. Expensive to repair also.

Like stated above you need to take good flash light and go spend couple hours on both to check for any rust issues.

Look up under the dash on the left and right sides. The cowl had bare metal inside and is always rusty to some extent. You can pop the plastic grills off and also look from under hood. Look under the battery for rust in the battery area. Look for rust on top of inner fenders just behind shock towers.

Of course under the car front floor pan rust means cowl is leaking. Rear rust can be roof rail leak or window leaks. The trunk rusts due to the gaskets around the tail lights leaking. Look for rust around the tail lights or shoddy fiberglass repairs on inside.

Ask owner if the gas lines have been changed to ethanol proof hose. If not that needs to be done before driving much.

Tires are probably out of date and would require replacing. The 73 does have the optional factory forged aluminum wheels.

Now on price. How long has the cars been listed for sale? If it has been over a week the cars are for sure way overpriced in my opinion.

Both would require a repaint to correct the sins of the past. That is not cheap and if they were not stripped before the last paint would probably require a full strip of the paint, expensive.

I myself would not offer more than $6,000 for the 72 and $5,000 for the 73. Both are low on options and the H code drops value also.

You cannot go by the Hagerty values they post do not know where they get those values.

Also if you look at ebay most auctions are won by joke bidders that never close the deal and the same cars there over and over.

Pictures of a car always look 50% better than an in person inspection.

More and more mustangs will come up for sale as the owners pass on and new generations have no interest in them. I am one of those and I have 12 mustangs in all that I am sure will be sold way cheap when I am gone.

 

[Hemikiller]

Agreed with David. I'm not such a stickler for originality and can overlook certain issues. Those cars have definitely had a hodge-podge of restoration work done.

IMO, if you're looking for a car to restore, this one I found in VT is extremely well optioned and doesn't look like it's ever been monkeyed with. It's going to need a taillight panel and probably some love on the trunk floor, but that's a pretty easy fix and doesn't require a complete re-spray. The seller says it runs and drives great and if the mileage is original, it should.

https://nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/north-walpole-1971-mustang-mach-1-ram/6825585388.html

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I do like original cars better nothing hidden. I think this one has over 100,000 looking at the seat wear and the wear on the pad on the console. I did not look at the pedals if he had a pic.

That would be a little steep for me but ram air is a great option.

 

[Hemikiller]

I do like original cars better nothing hidden. I think this one has over 100,000 looking at the seat wear and the wear on the pad on the console. I did not look at the pedals if he had a pic.

That would be a little steep for me but ram air is a great option.

Don't overlook the ultra-rare "Mach 1" block off plate on the console!!!

 

[71miguel73]

Agreed with David. I'm not such a stickler for originality and can overlook certain issues. Those cars have definitely had a hodge-podge of restoration work done.

IMO, if you're looking for a car to restore, this one I found in VT is extremely well optioned and doesn't look like it's ever been monkeyed with. It's going to need a taillight panel and probably some love on the trunk floor, but that's a pretty easy fix and doesn't require a complete re-spray. The seller says it runs and drives great and if the mileage is original, it should.

https://nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/north-walpole-1971-mustang-mach-1-ram/6825585388.html

I saw this one but way too far from me

 

[71miguel73]

Proceed with caution for sure. Do not buy or give deposit without laying hands on the cars. I have 7, 72 &73 so know them pretty good.

The 73 has a very incorrect restoration. They did not come with the CJ engine in 73 so the stock looking chrome lid air cleaner is off a 72 probably.

No attention to details under the hood lots of rattle can restore.

Not many options and the std interior was the low end for interior.

The hood should have had flat paint for the black and the shape is wrong also see pic of my original below.

The 72 does have better options for sure. The PW can require some work especially the rear. You cannot get replacement motors for rear only rebuilt which is tricky.

The left front fender for sure has been in some kind of accident and paint does not match. You need to look very close. The speaker holes in the back can do big damage to the reinforcements on each side. Expensive to repair also.

Like stated above you need to take good flash light and go spend couple hours on both to check for any rust issues.

Look up under the dash on the left and right sides. The cowl had bare metal inside and is always rusty to some extent. You can pop the plastic grills off and also look from under hood. Look under the battery for rust in the battery area. Look for rust on top of inner fenders just behind shock towers.

Of course under the car front floor pan rust means cowl is leaking. Rear rust can be roof rail leak or window leaks. The trunk rusts due to the gaskets around the tail lights leaking. Look for rust around the tail lights or shoddy fiberglass repairs on inside.

Ask owner if the gas lines have been changed to ethanol proof hose. If not that needs to be done before driving much.

Tires are probably out of date and would require replacing. The 73 does have the optional factory forged aluminum wheels.

Now on price. How long has the cars been listed for sale? If it has been over a week the cars are for sure way overpriced in my opinion.

Both would require a repaint to correct the sins of the past. That is not cheap and if they were not stripped before the last paint would probably require a full strip of the paint, expensive.

I myself would not offer more than $6,000 for the 72 and $5,000 for the 73. Both are low on options and the H code drops value also.

You cannot go by the Hagerty values they post do not know where they get those values.

Also if you look at ebay most auctions are won by joke bidders that never close the deal and the same cars there over and over.

Pictures of a car always look 50% better than an in person inspection.

More and more mustangs will come up for sale as the owners pass on and new generations have no interest in them. I am one of those and I have 12 mustangs in all that I am sure will be sold way cheap when I am gone.

Would you happen to have any for sale?

 

[7173Vert]

Proceed with caution for sure. Do not buy or give deposit without laying hands on the cars. I have 7, 72 &73 so know them pretty good.

The 73 has a very incorrect restoration. They did not come with the CJ engine in 73 so the stock looking chrome lid air cleaner is off a 72 probably.

No attention to details under the hood lots of rattle can restore.

Not many options and the std interior was the low end for interior.

The hood should have had flat paint for the black and the shape is wrong also see pic of my original below.

The 72 does have better options for sure. The PW can require some work especially the rear. You cannot get replacement motors for rear only rebuilt which is tricky.

The left front fender for sure has been in some kind of accident and paint does not match. You need to look very close. The speaker holes in the back can do big damage to the reinforcements on each side. Expensive to repair also.

Like stated above you need to take good flash light and go spend couple hours on both to check for any rust issues.

Look up under the dash on the left and right sides. The cowl had bare metal inside and is always rusty to some extent. You can pop the plastic grills off and also look from under hood. Look under the battery for rust in the battery area. Look for rust on top of inner fenders just behind shock towers.

Of course under the car front floor pan rust means cowl is leaking. Rear rust can be roof rail leak or window leaks. The trunk rusts due to the gaskets around the tail lights leaking. Look for rust around the tail lights or shoddy fiberglass repairs on inside.

Ask owner if the gas lines have been changed to ethanol proof hose. If not that needs to be done before driving much.

Tires are probably out of date and would require replacing. The 73 does have the optional factory forged aluminum wheels.

Now on price. How long has the cars been listed for sale? If it has been over a week the cars are for sure way overpriced in my opinion.

Both would require a repaint to correct the sins of the past. That is not cheap and if they were not stripped before the last paint would probably require a full strip of the paint, expensive.

I myself would not offer more than $6,000 for the 72 and $5,000 for the 73. Both are low on options and the H code drops value also.

You cannot go by the Hagerty values they post do not know where they get those values.

Also if you look at ebay most auctions are won by joke bidders that never close the deal and the same cars there over and over.

Pictures of a car always look 50% better than an in person inspection.

More and more mustangs will come up for sale as the owners pass on and new generations have no interest in them. I am one of those and I have 12 mustangs in all that I am sure will be sold way cheap when I am gone.

David, David, David... sigh... we will again agree to disagree on the future of these car's. That's all.