72 convertible in need of evrythng

[Keystone stang]

I have a 72 convertible, it probably should have been a parts car but I am attempting to restore it, the front engine bay area and floors are very rusted but rear frame rails are good, any suggestions? Is it possible to buy a front clip with inner fender wells and radiator support in tact?

 

[Steve McMahan]

We need pictures of all the areas, and surrounding areas, with as many angles of view you can provide to give you accurate help. In general, more rust=more time, money, skill, and equipment needed. Anything can be done with the aforementioned items included.

But let’s start with the pics and go from there. Welcome to your new best friends

 

[detritusmaximus]

I have a coupe parts car with fairly decent front frame rails/shock towers/radiator/support/crossmembers. Needs a few patches here and there.
Cheap, but you have to drive to St. Louis to get it...

 

[Keystone stang]

 

[Keystone stang]

It's going to need, inner fender wells both sides, radiator support, front frame rails, floor pans full length left and right. Door jams and rocker panels appear very solid as is the center hump and upper back seat area and since I don't weld I am sure it will be high dollars, but I have a car that I have wanted so it will be an eight to ten year project car a little bit at a time. So suggestions? Should I start inside out or start by getting rear quarters and solid doors?

 

[Steve McMahan]

Wow. That’s a lot of rust, but if this is all you’ve found, it appears it’s contained in the front half-ish of the car. Definitely need a floor and at least a patch on the drivers side firewall, passenger battery apron, drivers side frame front, by the steering box looks ok. What does the back half look like? While no expert, it would be unusual to have that much rust damage in the front and have past the door Pilar a clean car.

So, what setup do you have to do the job, equipment, facilities, etc that stuff? Others here with more extensive rust repair experience should chime in to evaluate the level of those things I asked about (equipment, skill, facilities, etc) you’ll need to do the restoration.

 

[Keystone stang]

Wow. That’s a lot of rust, but if this is all you’ve found, it appears it’s contained in the front half-ish of the car. Definitely need a floor and at least a patch on the drivers side firewall, passenger battery apron, drivers side frame front, by the steering box looks ok. What does the back half look like? While no expert, it would be unusual to have that much rust damage in the front and have past the door Pilar a clean car.

So, what setup do you have to do the job, equipment, facilities, etc that stuff? Others here with more extensive rust repair experience should chime in to evaluate the level of those things I asked about (equipment, skill, facilities, etc) you’ll need to do the restoration.

 

[Keystone stang]

I have a one and a half car garage, the work will be done little by little at a local body shop. The trunk floor needs replaced and the rear taillight panel but rear frame rails are solid. After the metal work is finished I can do all the bolt on things myself as well as the interior

 

[Keystone stang]

I have a coupe parts car with fairly decent front frame rails/shock towers/radiator/support/crossmembers. Needs a few patches here and there.
Cheap, but you have to drive to St. Louis to get it...

St Louis is a bit too far lol

 

[jscott]

i would start by robbing a bank

 

[cjstaci]

I think you would be better off using this as a part’s car. If you have to pay to have all the metal work done, you will have way too much money invested in this car

 

[Keystone stang]

I just bought the car but I am already wondering if it was a mistake. I love these cars and I have wanted one for some time now and I bought this one and it was the first one I looked at, I should have been more patient. I gave $1800 for this car and it needs a lot. So I am having buyers remorse

 

[RD-72]

Your car may have certain historic value...by the looks of the holes in the floor, it is possible it used to be owned by Fred Flinstone or Barney Rubble... yabba dabba doooooo.

Seriously though, lots of advice to be had on this site....every situation is different and the alternatives are really endless, depending on your end goal, skill level, time horizon, and of course bank account.

Ultimately it seems to me if you just want to get it roadworthy the cost will be allot more manageable than a full concourse restoration.

Whether it’s worth fixing and to what level, really depends on you.

Good luck with your decision making process!

 

[RD-72]

Just by way of reference, at the Las Vegas Barrett Jackson auction a couple weeks ago I seem to recall that there was a red 71-73 convertible that someone paid US$60,000

 

[Lazarus]

I hesitated to reply here because everyone has different motivations in car restoration. Often folks will spend a high amount of money (compared to the ultimate value of the model when restored) to bring back a car of sentimental value (their high school car, their father’s car, etc.) and I totally get that. I myself have two convertibles: one is a fairly solid survivor and the other was a basket case (in arguably worse shape than yours). I can tell you from experience that getting the basket case to where it is has been vastly more expensive than buying a more solid car to begin with… and I have access to a VERY reasonably priced shop.

I am not one to lightly tell someone what to do with their car or their money, but I can assure you that you will pay more to restore the car you are showing above than you would by buying one that is in better shape. I am not exaggerating when I say that the body and frame work alone needed on your car, done in a shop, could end up being 10-15k easily… before paint. I see driving 71-73 verts in my area regularly for around $12-15k (occasionally even lower). They are far from perfect but pretty solid and you can enjoy them while you build.

I know you have already purchased this one but be careful not to make a sunk-cost decision. It is probably useful as a parts car and with a little patience and maybe some travel or shipping you can jump ahead with a more solid car.

Again, that’s just my opinion and meant very respectfully. I just have never known a case where someone started with a similar condition car (that wasn’t sentimental or an ultra-rare VIN) and by the time they finished (or gave up) didn’t say “I should have started with a more solid base.”

 

[Topless73Qcode4SPD]

I just bought the car but I am already wondering if it was a mistake. I love these cars and I have wanted one for some time now and I bought this one and it was the first one I looked at, I should have been more patient. I gave $1800 for this car and it needs a lot. So I am having buyers remorse

My .02...

Not worth the effort or cost.
Salvage what you can and tow the rest to the scrap yard.
Treat it as a learning event.
You can buy a very nice 71-73 in the 20K range and be driving it next month.
You will be spending at least that much and probably much more just to bring yours back to life.

Painful I know but better to not throw good money after bad, as they
say in the gambling world...

 

[Topless73Qcode4SPD]

Sorry for the accidental double-post (edited)

Nice vert..
I like the flat black hood.
Upload more picture please

 

[ib4stangs]

This 114k mile, 73 convertible was for sale May 15 in Frederick MD for $14k. The ad expired so availability is unknown. It was a running / driving summer cruiser you could use now, not in 10+ years!

 

[RIBS]

Definitely floor pan, seat pan and quarters…if you have the time and money and motivation it can be rebuilt…I would start with floorpan and related frame parts in the unibody, then attack any issues with front frame fenders and bolt on parts…

 

[ib4stangs]

I just found the car from my post above f/s again. Someone bought it and is selling now for $25K



https://lancaster.craigslist.org/pts/d/oley-1973-ford-mustang-convertible/7639454769.html