73 Mach1 Project

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Quarter Glass  brackets installed and inside painted today.



 
Your certainly making good progress and looking good so far

I'm nearly on 3 years with my project and almost complete

Was hoping for 2 years but things get in the way and go wrong sometimes

 
I'm about to fix the rear spoiler mounts to the spoiler. What's the best method to attach these. Are the pop rivets suitable as the original ones were quite loose?

Brackets still to be filled and smoothed as the castings are quite rough.



 
Some more progress over the last couple of weeks.

Front bumper sanded and repaired. It had a fairly large split on one end.







Rear light sockets cleaned up. I removed the pins from the sockets and will fix the new wiring directly to the pins.

Before



After



Pins removed.



 
Fitted a new brass heater bypass to the engine.



Also installed an additional oil line to feed the rear main bearings as these are usually the last to receive oil after startup.





 
Hi, I am also in the middle of re-building a 1973 Mach-1 so needles to say I have been enjoying your pictures and text. I am trying to replace the plastic bumper with a 1972 chrome bumper. I am curious if anyone out there has done this yet. I would appreciate any help.

 
When I purchased the Mach 1 earlier this year it was 80% disassembled.I have been working through the various bits & pieces, cleaning, painting, etc. There are some parts I'm not sure where they go.

Front mudguards somewhere?



These;



This one



Any help much appreciated.

 
Thank you, the dash was out and in pieces. Still to work out how it goes back together but al least I think all parts are there.

Are the middle ones from the floorpan somewhere?

 
The last pic that is the brace that goes attached to the trap door bulkhead on the passenger side. The notch along the edge is where the trap door latch locks into. I hope member Marks73 doesn't mine that I used his pic to illustrate what I'm trying to explain.



 
Great, thanks. Another bit to go back in place. I've just finished cleaning and painting all the fold down back seat parts, some new carpet and it's ready to go back in after the body is painted.

 
Thanks for sharing your journey - there is some awesome work going on here.  Well done! ::thumb::

 
More done today.

Power steering pump overhauled with new seal kit and painted.



Front guards fitted. Still to be aligned.



Rear valance and bumper infill fitted.



 
Power steering pump finished.

I was missing the pulley and pressure relief valve and a special thanks to member OzCoupe72 who found spare ones among his bits & pieces.



 
Started on the wiring harness today. I have decided to do a full re-wire as the original has been hacked about over the years. Made worse with the RH conversion. Some 40+ joiners and many "other joins". Burnt, frayed, and bare bits as well. A fire waiting to happen if I had re-used it. I'm putting in a 22 circuit wiring kit, comes complete and shouldn't be too hard to adapt. I won't worry about buzzers, seat retractors, etc.



"quality joins?" under the insulation tape



rear harness



 
Last edited by a moderator:
The rewiring is progressing well. New wires run to all areas. The ignition harness, indicator harness and engine harness plugs have been finished. Today hopefully I can complete the front and rear lighting areas.







 
Wiring now about 95% complete. Under dash harnesses are all done. Just a few bits yo hook up once the dash goes back in. The only thing I didn't worry about was the ammeter as I going to put in a voltage meter instead.





Engine in last night. Bit of a hassle getting the engine mount holes to line up but eventually fitted ok.



Now to test fit the Sanderson headers.

 
Looking good and always a good feeling to get your engine in

Hopefully unlike me you don't need to remove it for a long time!

Will be interesting to see how your new headers fit, I used the Proflow stainless headers for our local Falcons and surprisingly even with a steering rack they actually fit well but need to install the right side one after install

Wiring can be a pain in the neck but with a good kit it helps. I gather you used the American Auto Wire 22 circuit kit?

Where did you end up mounting the fuse box? I found a good spot was above the right side kick panel

Your making good progress

 
Looking good and always a good feeling to get your engine in

Hopefully unlike me you don't need to remove it for a long time!

Will be interesting to see how your new headers fit, I used the Proflow stainless headers for our local Falcons and surprisingly even with a steering rack they actually fit well but need to install the right side one after install

Wiring can be a pain in the neck but with a good kit it helps. I gather you used the American Auto Wire 22 circuit kit?

Where did you end up mounting the fuse box? I found a good spot was above the right side kick panel

Your making good progress
Thanks,

The headers went well. LHS no issues at all. RHS, This morning, I had to cut and weld in a small section on one pipe to clear the steering box. Will now take them to get ceramic coated. Yes I used the 22 circuit kit. It matched up well with the Mustang rear brake/indicator setup and the new headlight switch will fit the original mounting plate. The Mustang switch knob, shaft and bezel fits as well. Had to add a few extra wires. I kept notes on the various issues I came across, so I might even write this up sometime if others want to tackle a re-wire job. I am glad I did the re-wiring after the issues I uncovered. While time consuming, the overall cost was very reasonable considering all the items included in the kit.

Fuse box on a bracket on the RHS on the steering column bracket. One advantage of the RH conversion, it's only a short run to the battery, coil, etc.

LHS



RHS clearance issue

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