Cleveland Stroker Timing set question

[73pony]

Just wanted to give an update on this. I got a machine shop in town to open up the key ways to fit the woodruff keys. The set fits perfectly now. Now to get this damn thing finished up and in the car.

 

[Sheriff41]

Be sure to degree your cam and you should be good to go.

 

[tony-muscle]

I read a post from Tim stating that same issue with the keyways. It really sucks that Rollermaster screwed up that dimension. I also bought my parts from Tim and luckily back then there was no issue with the keyway.

 

[73pony]

I read a post from Tim stating that same issue with the keyways. It really sucks that Rollermaster screwed up that dimension. I also bought my parts from Tim and luckily back then there was no issue with the keyway.

Yes. Tim and I discussed at length. Doesn't sound like Rollmaster is going to make any changes either. Sounds like it has been going on for a while now and I was the first one to bring it up to Tim, prompting him to make that post.

 

[c9zx]

I would expect better from the Australian firms, unless they have farmed it out also. Chuck

 

[basstrix]

I asked him if the issue was resolved, he confirmed it was not and advised that I would be responsible for correcting the keyway. Suggested using a small file.

 

[spdbk1]

Also this is why you buy new pick up for you new high volume melling oil pump

 

[73pony]

I asked him if the issue was resolved, he confirmed it was not and advised that I would be responsible for correcting the keyway. Suggested using a small file.

You will be there with that file for a very long time. I tired that route. It is hardened.

 

[basstrix]

Another builder reported the issue on the cleveland forum. TMeyer responded and said that Rollmaster will be correcting the problem but will take 4-6 mos!

Do any of you know what the differences are between the SVO/stroker version and a standard cleveland set? I believe the offset is one of the differences.

 

[73pony]

It is the offset from the block. I took my crank gear to a couple different machine shops before I found someone who could do the work. They have 2 issues going on. The key ways are too small and the ID is too small (it will go on but extremely tight and needs pounded on. I had the machine shop open the 0, 2, -2, 4, and -4 keyways (incase I need to adjust after degreeing the cam. They also opened the bore so it slides on perfect now. They just charged me $100 the shop minimum.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

It is the offset from the block. I took my crank gear to a couple different machine shops before I found someone who could do the work. They have 2 issues going on. The key ways are too small and the ID is too small (it will go on but extremely tight and needs pounded on. I had the machine shop open the 0, 2, -2, 4, and -4 keyways (incase I need to adjust after degreeing the cam. They also opened the bore so it slides on perfect now. They just charged me $100 the shop minimum.

Just an FYI on "tight" crank timing gears: Drop them in boiling water for several minutes. The expansion will make for an easy Install. You of course will need a simple split type gear puller upon future removal, but that's no big deal. Additionally, a true Cleveland gear runs a slightly different I.D. crank gear vs the SVO/Windsor timing gear which the boiling water trick will NOT overcome!