BAD DAY!!! Catastrophic engine failure!! Updated pics of the carnage.

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If it was me...And i was going to stroke and poke a block "like you said you wanted too"...I would go for 4 bolt main...Sorry 2 bolt main guys...I know alot of you will argu this with me...but i talked to alot of old school racers and circle track racers...I live next too one of the fastest circle tracks this side of the mississippi...And they all said the 4 bolt main clevelands would out last the 2 bolts...Nothing personal folks...But if you want alot of horse power and plan on pulling some serious power and rpm's...4bolt for me.....It doesnt cost much more to get a 4 bolt main..If you can wait...Heck one popped up i posted on here months ago localy 4v cleveland with everything for 500 bucks...I would hold on and look into what you wanna do before you jump too fast....If it was me that is...Cause 4 bolt main clevelands are not that spendy when they pop up...But if all you can get...get what works for you...But i like knowing my bottom end is not moving around..Ford did not put them on high preformance cars for the fun of it..2bolt clevelands i believe can be drilled for 4....But saying that...2 bolt main with some good ARP bolts will handle alot of hp.

Just throwing in my 2 cents... So dont chew my head off folks;) hehe

 
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I think i may have found my donor motor!! 73 ranchero. Anything i need to know about the 73 351 cleveland 2v??? What auto tranny would that be?? c4 c6 fmx??

Heres a link http://erie.craigslist.org/cto/3232113457.html
Kevin - here's my two cents. If the Ranchero cleveland has headers, along with the mag(ish) wheels, I'm pretty sure they ran the crap out of it. If it "runs good" as stated, that's a plus.

Do you plan to bore it and cam it and all that? Then the block may be just what you need to start with. The crank may need to be ground a bit as well. Of course, look at the oil, listen to it run for knocks or other problems, plugs, etc. I love how my 351 2V turned out after the rebuild. I hope that you're onto something great.

 
Just my 2 cents. If you plan to build a stroker you only need a block and a replacement head. That said $600 for the Ranchero is a lot for a block and assumably you'd have no use for 2v heads. Unless you just want to be in the parting out business pass the Ranchero and buy what u need.

Sorry for your bad luck with your cleveland but as you seem to be going, its a chance to remake your motor decision. There are members here running 408s from 351. Take your time figure your budget and then build what you can.

Jenny

 
Thanks for all the input everyone!! I was leaning toward the ranchero because i could pull the motor and tranny and rear end sell off what i dont need and scrap the car. Even if i used just the block it would be damn near free by the time i scrapped the car and sold rearend and tranny. All the blocks around here that i have found are running around 250-350. So every little bit i save will help pay for the stroker kit and heads. I may even just build the stroker short block and put my heads on them if they are still good and save up to get the aluminum heads next winter. Like i said all depends what is salvagable in my motor. Be nice if the heads could be saved, timing chain should be good, rockers and pushrods are all good, get cam checked, and lifters checked. If that is all good, buy the scat rotating assembly have a new block machined and assembled then bolt on all my stuff. Might get lucky and only spend $2500 or so. Then save up next summer for the heads that will set me back 2000-2500. The wife would kill me if i dipped into the savings and pulled out 5000-6000 right now, especially since we have a baby on the way :D But i do side work for guys in the garage and have a few bucks saved up out there that she never knows about :p We will see how it all plays out and i will keep you guys posted. Again thanks for all the input and well wishes!!!!

 
I don't have much faith in chamber damaged heads.

Had a set of beautifully ported Aussie 2V's long ago with dropped (damned stock Ford valves!!) valve damage. One had destroyed seats, chamber, and (the final nail in the coffin) cracked valve guide bosses in that cylinder.

Voilà, boat anchor.

The OC-4V's should be easy enough to come by. I passed on a set for $100 at the North Washington (the one down my way in Apollo) swap meet last year. Even CC's irons aren't crazy money IMO.

I have a set of bare 2V's that I'd trade for a case of IC Light...

 
Thanks moto arts i might take you up on that offer. All my headers ands and intake are good for 2v heads. so if i have to have just one head done thats better than both.

 
Thanks for all the input everyone!! I was leaning toward the ranchero because i could pull the motor and tranny and rear end sell off what i dont need and scrap the car. Even if i used just the block it would be damn near free by the time i scrapped the car and sold rearend and tranny. All the blocks around here that i have found are running around 250-350. So every little bit i save will help pay for the stroker kit and heads. I may even just build the stroker short block and put my heads on them if they are still good and save up to get the aluminum heads next winter. Like i said all depends what is salvagable in my motor. Be nice if the heads could be saved, timing chain should be good, rockers and pushrods are all good, get cam checked, and lifters checked. If that is all good, buy the scat rotating assembly have a new block machined and assembled then bolt on all my stuff. Might get lucky and only spend $2500 or so. Then save up next summer for the heads that will set me back 2000-2500. The wife would kill me if i dipped into the savings and pulled out 5000-6000 right now, especially since we have a baby on the way :D But i do side work for guys in the garage and have a few bucks saved up out there that she never knows about :p We will see how it all plays out and i will keep you guys posted. Again thanks for all the input and well wishes!!!!
Stroker will need different pushrods or at least you will have to measure them and seem to run better with a cam ground for the stroker motor. But you have a lot to think about before you get to that point.

 
Thanks roy. Even with a new cam lifters and pushrods that only another 500 or so. I have to talk to the machine shop and see what they reconmend
Cool, go for it. Like I said I would order the kit from MME. I wish I had. The one I ordered mine from is out of business now:s good luck.

 
I was looking at the scat kit from summit racing. looked like MME uses scat stuff too.
You will have to have your block clearanced for the 408 also don't believe it required for the 393
Yeah i think the bottom of the cylinders need ground out to clear the rods on the 408. If im gonna do it might as well go big.

 
What are your objectives Kevin? Do you need to go stroker? Do you need a 4 bolt block? Right now it looks like you will need to look at budget based options with the new little one on the way.

Some will offer much protest in what I am about to recommend. How about abandoning the Cleveland for a Windsor, roller based combination with fuel injection? I am seriously looking in that direction. They are lighter which will help the car be more balanced, the fuel injection has an economy and drivability edge, Windsors have MUCH better aftermarket support (almost as good as the old SBC) and you can put it into the same power range as the Cleveland for the same money and have it be more efficient. With all the extra room in the engine compartment it will be easier to work on. In my old geezer mind... what's not to like?

Just a different perspective.

 
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What are your objectives Kevin? Do you need to go stroker? Do you need a 4 bolt block? Right now it looks like you will need to look at budget based options with the new little one on the way.

Some will offer much protest in what I am about to recommend. How about abandoning the Cleveland for a Windsor, roller based combination with fuel injection? I am seriously looking in that direction. They are lighter which will help the car be more balanced, the fuel injection has an economy and drivability edge, Windsors have MUCH better aftermarket support (almost as good as the old SBC) and you can put it into the same power range as the Cleveland for the same money and have it be more efficient. With all the extra room in the engine compartment it will be easier to work on. In my old geezer mind... what's not to like?

Just a different perspective.
Thanks for the input and differnet perspective. Dont really need the stroker but want the stroker. I like the old school feel of carbs and hate the wiring hassle of fuel injection. Wanna stay true to the roots of my car with the cleveland and i have alot of go fast parts already for the cleveland. I have had a built windsor carbed before and it ran great. just leaning towards the cleveland right now. I have all winter to get this figured out. Thanks again

 
You bet Kevin, it was just a different perspective. If you think the head is salvagable have your machine ship clean and magnaflux it then you'll know for sure. The block may be able to be sleeved although +.040" is pretty big for a street cleveland.

 
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