Correct colors for manual transmission and bell housing

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My Car
1972 Mustang Convertible, 351 C2V, 3 Speed Manual Transmission, Decor Group, Color Keyed Racing Mirrors. 6C Medium Goldenrod, White Knit Vinyl Bucket
That's is guys and gals, what color are the bell housing and manual transmission supposed to be on a 1972 Mustang? I want to put a new clutch in, because ours feels kinda worn, though it will still do a one wheel peel, and I want to make sure they go back in looking correct.
I'm also exchanging the three speed for a four speed, (out of a 71 Grande of all things), due to the three speed in need of a reseal badly, which is why I can't tell what color it was before. Maybe three speeds were painted a different color anyway. I will reseal it, clean it up, paint it and put it away for originality. I was lucky enough to find the 4 speed ,, which appears to be in great shape, possibly rebuilt it looks so good inside, right in the next town over, like 4 miles away ! I also found and picked up a really nice condition, correct factory style (round bar) Hurst shifter out of a 72 Mach on eBay, and I didn't have to pay the stupid money some guys are trying to get for these shifters, (12-1800 bucks, yikes ! ). Guy was asking $450.00 plus shipping of 30.00, but he took my offer of $400.00 shipped. I ordered a Hurst rebuild kit, just to freshen it up. I have scored these shifters before for other cars and disassembling ,cleaning them up and throwing the rebuild kit in makes them feel like brand new again.
 
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Bell housing is Dark Corporate Blue, gearbox is not painted, but should have appropriate paint daubs.
Clutch suggestion; CenterForce Dual Friction or CenterForce II. Check your flywheel too. These clutches are 11". The flywheel should be resurfaced as I'm sure you know. Lot's of choices out there, so up to you.
Another thing I did on mine was to replace all the plastic bushings with oilite bronze. Resizing the holes is the hardest part. I also added bearings to the clutch shaft (Mustang Steve's kit). This of course means major rework, but totally worth it imo. Of course, there are other options too, hydraulic, cable etc.
Good luck with your new 4 speed!
 
The bell would be natural cast iron or aluminum, with Corporate Blue overspray around the edges by the block. The block plate will be natural steel with blue overspray on the face by the oil pan, as both were installed prior to engine painting.

Transmission will be natural cast iron with various color ID markings and stamps. Cover plate is raw steel, as is the shifter mounting plate.

Geoff makes good points about rebuilding the Z-bar. I'd replace the bushings and seals at a minimum. You'll probably find that the lower clutch rod swivel has eaten into the z-bar and needs to be repaired.

Definitely replace the pivot bushings on the shift arms, most are worn right out. NPD has the bushings.

I put most of my toploader pics into a folder, you can see many of the markings the factory applied. This trans came out of a very original 71 Cougar XR-7.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UusFfkMvW81ApNU16
The 429 Megasite has a bunch of great reference photos.

http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/
 
Strongly recommend the 11" CenterForce1. I have it in my 71 Mach1 with 351c & TopLoader 3 sp. It feels just like the hydraulic clutch in my 2013 Mustang. The ball bearings in the pressure plate make the pressure plate smooth to actuate and durable without the complexity of hydraulics. To the best of my knowledge, no one else has this feature. The "CenterForce has balls" tag line is for real!
 
The bell would be natural cast iron or aluminum, with Corporate Blue overspray around the edges by the block. The block plate will be natural steel with blue overspray on the face by the oil pan, as both were installed prior to engine painting.

Transmission will be natural cast iron with various color ID markings and stamps. Cover plate is raw steel, as is the shifter mounting plate.

Geoff makes good points about rebuilding the Z-bar. I'd replace the bushings and seals at a minimum. You'll probably find that the lower clutch rod swivel has eaten into the z-bar and needs to be repaired.

Definitely replace the pivot bushings on the shift arms, most are worn right out. NPD has the bushings.

I put most of my toploader pics into a folder, you can see many of the markings the factory applied. This trans came out of a very original 71 Cougar XR-7.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UusFfkMvW81ApNU16
The 429 Megasite has a bunch of great reference photos.

http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/
Curious you say the bell was natural with overspray. When I did mine, I'm pretty sure the bell was painted. The motor had never been out, but I do know the clutch had been changed at least once. Let me check my pics and get back.

EDIT: Here's a pic of mine when the car was first stripped in 2012 for the first engine rebuild. There is a lot of "overspray" if that is what it is. I took it as fully painted, so my mistake if I was incorrect.
 

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Curious you say the bell was natural with overspray. When I did mine, I'm pretty sure the bell was painted. The motor had never been out, but I do know the clutch had been changed at least once. Let me check my pics and get back.

All of the documentation I've seen has the bell either completely bare metal, or with overspray around the mating surfaces. I think there is some debate as to which way the engines were painted, with or without the bell, and it may have changed depending upon the year in question. I personally have had them bare and bare with overspray, but not being able to trace the provenance of a car back to Day 1, it's impossible to say "X" is the only correct way.
 
Thank you all for your input, I will do my best to replicate the correct look. I have not taken it apart yet, I want to get all my parts lined up first. I will look into the Center Force clutch, but I have had great luck with the LUK clutches, and this is only a 72 H motor, so it lacks the balls to need a Center Force I would think. I will also check the clutch linkage, but right now it seems to be very smooth, ad this car "may" have actually only been driven 28,000 miles. I'm still evaluating that claim, it's that hard to tell. Some things say yes, other things, not so much. I've owned a lot of cars in my day, and a lot of 71-73 Stangs, but this car is very hard to read as far as miles go. No smoke on start up, super quiet motor, runs beautifully all stock , even still has points in the dizzy. virtually no rot, pedal pads show low wear, all the usual low miles stuff looks good. But, it's been repainted, it needs a driver's seat recover, and the drivers seat frame was broken in the left rear corner, which I have since repaired by straightening it and welding the blind nut to a large flat washer, and then welding that back onto the seat frame. BUT, the guy or gal may have been very large and heavy person who "fell" into the seat each time they got in. I don't know, tough to say.
 
All of the documentation I've seen has the bell either completely bare metal, or with overspray around the mating surfaces. I think there is some debate as to which way the engines were painted, with or without the bell, and it may have changed depending upon the year in question. I personally have had them bare and bare with overspray, but not being able to trace the provenance of a car back to Day 1, it's impossible to say "X" is the only correct way.
Curious you say the bell was natural with overspray. When I did mine, I'm pretty sure the bell was painted. The motor had never been out, but I do know the clutch had been changed at least once. Let me check my pics and get back.

EDIT: Here's a pic of mine when the car was first stripped in 2012 for the first engine rebuild. There is a lot of "overspray" if that is what it is. I took it as fully painted, so my mistake if I was incorrect.
Super interesting pics guys, thanks so much for the detailed answers !!
 
The bell would be natural cast iron or aluminum, with Corporate Blue overspray around the edges by the block. The block plate will be natural steel with blue overspray on the face by the oil pan, as both were installed prior to engine painting.

Transmission will be natural cast iron with various color ID markings and stamps. Cover plate is raw steel, as is the shifter mounting plate.

Geoff makes good points about rebuilding the Z-bar. I'd replace the bushings and seals at a minimum. You'll probably find that the lower clutch rod swivel has eaten into the z-bar and needs to be repaired.

Definitely replace the pivot bushings on the shift arms, most are worn right out. NPD has the bushings.

I put most of my toploader pics into a folder, you can see many of the markings the factory applied. This trans came out of a very original 71 Cougar XR-7.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UusFfkMvW81ApNU16
The 429 Megasite has a bunch of great reference photos.

http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/
What color would a 71 mach with FMX tranny? just getting ready to put that sucker in my car.
Thx
 
Super interesting pics guys, thanks so much for the detailed answers !!
Here's a couple more pics from 2012. Like I said, I know the clutch was changed before, but I doubt anyone repainted the bellhousing, I mean why bother at that point? That said, looking closer, the amount of blue looks to be more than overspray, but could well be. It's hard to tell as this had never been cleaned.
 

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so my 4 speed is painted , what would you guys use to remove the paint? I'm thinking paint stripper.
 
Curious you say the bell was natural with overspray. When I did mine, I'm pretty sure the bell was painted. The motor had never been out, but I do know the clutch had been changed at least once. Let me check my pics and get back.

EDIT: Here's a pic of mine when the car was first stripped in 2012 for the first engine rebuild. There is a lot of "overspray" if that is what it is. I took it as fully painted, so my mistake if I was incorrect.
Could have been a rookie being trained on a Friday afternoon or Monday morning? 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
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