Digital Dash and new wiring harness question

[JDuvall]

I have a few questions. Who has done a complete after market wiring harness in their mustang? Where did you move the fuse box too?
Has anyone did the digital dash with electronic speedometer ?
What about trunk mounted battery?
Single wire alternator?
DUI distributor?
I am just curious after fighting the speedometer cable on the back of the instrument cluster and replacing almost every electrical switch in the car I am just seeing what are my options.
I just replaced the factory ac/heater box. I now think I should have just put in an aftermarket sure fit unit.

 

[Steve McMahan]

I can speak to the battery and DUI distributor question. It’s like many of the “senior” members of this forum say, with enough money, skill, and time, you can do anything.
BUT, should you? I would vote no on the battery and DUI, but for different reasons.

The battery is a vanity thing. It’s not necessary if the engine compartment is staying with a stock motor. You’ll hear about the weight transfer advantages to doing so, but there’s the issue of the 20 pounds of new battery cables to do it, the routing issues, etc. None of those are necessary unless your taken the batteries real estate away.

I think the majority of the folks on this forum don’t prefer the DUI distributor system. They can be prone to random failure (mine was), and they are not “attractive“ at the front of the engine. Also, the stock system and even some mild modernizations of that work surprisingly well, on stock and mildly modified engines.

But, as is the way of this forum, it’s your money and your ride, so do as you will and we’ll offer help and advice, along the way, as you ask. Enjoy, Steve.

 

[Don C]

You can find detailed answers to all of your questions by searching the forum, the answer to all of them is yes.

 

[JDuvall]

You can find detailed answers to all of your questions by searching the forum, the answer to all of them is yes.

Don, I searched the forum, I found a few talking about issues or questions.
I didn’t see anyone give their opinions on good or bad. I am looking for feedback like Steve McMahan did.
I know I can change all of it. I am looking for feedback and actual experience.
Like if the there are issues with the DUI , what would you recommend. MSD, factory , conversion kit and why?
I have the factory dual point, dual diaphragm vacuum advance distributor.
It works, but is stupidly complex compared to what it could be.
I have been under my dash checking fuses more times than I care to do, my back isn’t what it use to be.

So I am looking for the pros and cons from people that have done these changes to help me make my plans for the future changes.

There is definitely a wealth of knowledge on the forum, but the majority of the posts are about issues not about the wins, the pros of these changes.

 

[Steve McMahan]

I’ve found searching via Google, putting in search terms and the 7173mustangs.com in the search line, opens up information from the forum I didn’t find using the internal search feature.

 

[Tnfastbk]

I have a Ron Francis harness with the old style Dakota digital gauges. I am running an MSD ignition system along with MSD Atomic fuel injection. It all works together well but I will say my car was completely apart when the harness was installed. I think it will be a pain in the &ss to change a complete harness with the car together to make it look nice. We put the new style Dakota gauges with a painless harness with the MSD stuff in my wifes 70. Works well but car was a full build as well

 

[JDuvall]

Steve McMahan , thank you. It didn’t cross my mind to use google for the forum. I definitely will give that a try!

Tnfastbk, thank you for your input. I would definitely agree it would be easier if the car was apart to do the harness and if I do end up doing a complete harness that’s what I would do. How do you like your Dakota gauges? Should you do anything differently now vs when you installed them?

 

[Tnfastbk]

Nothing different. I wish I could run the new style with the needle gauges but they don't sell the center three gauges with the new style. As per Dakota they have no intention of ever making the three gauge set up. I have asked them directly a few times. I am not willing to give up my console gauges so switching is not an option for me.

 

[Bobby]

Hi. I had an aftermarket harness installed but the only practical place to mount the fuse box was the glove box. It takes up about half the space but I don’t have a whole lot to put in it. I went with Autometer analog replacement tach, fuel gauge, and mechanical speedo and the oil, temp and voltage gauges with Equus. I did not like the Dakota Digital options. Having a digital cluster doesn’t bother me but would prefer an analog readout with the separate oil, temp and voltage gauges in the center dash. All they have like that is digital readout with the separate center dash gauges. The analog readouts were left dash with complete gauge set only.

 

[IA Rider]

I have also contacted Dakota Digital on the console gauges. If they get enough people contacting them about this option they might offer it someday.

Nothing different. I wish I could run the new style with the needle gauges but they don't sell the center three gauges with the new style. As per Dakota they have no intention of ever making the three gauge set up. I have asked them directly a few times. I am not willing to give up my console gauges so switching is not an option for me.

 

[Tnfastbk]

I didn't mention I am running a one wire alternator and the fuse box that I got from Ron Francis is magnetic so its mounted very high on the drivers side but I can grab it and pull it down if I need to check something and not be a contortionist. They will build your harness however you want it or sell you an off the shelf one to meet your needs. Great people to work with.
https://www.ronfrancis.com/

 

[Ripper679]

Hello!
American Autowire (pn# 510662) makes a complete wiring loom for our cars ment for a aftermarket build with circuits for a one wire alternator (which isn't for everyone... but it does work, they are on a gazillion hot rods), fuel injection, electric fans, digital dash etc....
It comes with modern blade fuses and a bunch of connectors and switches and of course instructions. This, obviously is a big job. I ordered a kit myself and am very impressed with the quality so far, however I haven't installed it. It is pricey but so far it seems worth the buck.
Link
https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/1971-1973-ford-mustang-classic-update-kit
I also have the Dakota digital dash. They have a lifetime warranty on all their stuff. They make a quality product as well.
I have this model. It can do so much more than just be a gauge.... speedometer sensors (manual gear type and electric with a fairly easy calibration setup), control electric fans, give alarms at overtemp or low oil pressure at a temp/psi of your choice, etc.... again.... in my opinion worth the coin. I went with the VHX with the 3 gauge style
Link
https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=922/mode=prod/prd922.htmAs for the 3 gauges in the center console, I bored out the holes with a file (just slightly) and put a oil temp gauge, air fuel ratio gauge and ambient air temp gauge in the holes. Just find 3 gauges that you like that are 2 1/16 in size and bore out the holes alittle in the center console and they fit right in.
I am running FITECH fuel injection because they use OEM parts (injectors, sensors etc... so replacements can be bought at an autoparts store) in their setup and the classic model looks like a holley carb. I went with this because the computer is mounted in the car away from heat and I think it looks cool. Good for 650 horsepower
Link
https://fitechefi.com/product/30021-go-efi-classic-black-650hp-system-2/I have used their stuff before and, for me, it works great.
Aeromotive makes a bolt in tank with a electric fuel pump in it (stealth). That fit well too, ment for fuel injection with everything in factory locations.
I put the battery in the trunk as I plan on autocross driving the car because I have a screw loose in my head.
Mike Maier makes some awesome subframe connectors and suspension components for our cars. Fit up is perfect and quality is top notch.
https://mikemaierinc.com/
Anything is doable, as others gave stated, Google is your friend here because your questions aren't specific enough and cover a wide range of topics that lead down so many rabbit holes. Basically my advice is.... find parts you like and WILL them on your car. The parts I mentioned work nicely with our cars. I haven't ran the battery cables yet, BUT I HAVE POWER TOOLS!... so I'll figure that out when the wiring comes.

As far as the debate if it is worth it.... it's not about the weight transfer ratio (ie moving 20 lbs from front to rear isn't that much weight compared to the rest of the car) as it is about the effect of not having that much weight hanging in front of your front tire over the nose of your car. Street driving only.... I'd personally leave it up front.... simply for convenience. Performance build for spirited driving and occasional track days... move it.


Attack the car.
ENJOY THE PROCESS! Don't rush it.

-Manny

 

[MikeGriese]

If you do make substantive changes from stock, take good notes and document everything you changed. One of the first recommendations anybody on a forum makes when somebody has a problem is "go get the manuals/wiring diagrams". That won't help if the car doesn't match the manuals. You might not need them, but the next owner will.

 

[JDuvall]

I greatly appreciate all the feedback from everyone’s experiences.
This is the type of insight I need.
I am lucky my harness is basically stock and intact. The plugs are brittle and so is the fuse box.
When I got the car almost every bulb was burned out. Which is a good indicator of a bad voltage regulator, which my was bad.
Between pulling the instrument cluster out , lowering the steering column multiple times and replacing the ac/heater box, heater core and every electrical switch (turn signal, ignition, headlight, starter solenoid) fuel tank and sending unit and all the bulbs.
I was looking for ideas to make maintenance easier. Ideally I shouldn’t have to be under the dash looking at fuses once I find all my issues. I just want to make sure I get a solid plan together, so I don’t have to redo work down the road.
I want a reliable daily driver for the next 2-3 years. Then I will get into doing more performance stuff.
Again that you all, I greatly appreciate all the posts and knowledge!

 

[JJU9507]

Use 3 wire , not one wire alternator, car needs voltage sensing at dash fuse panel to keep voltage drop low. only farm tractors use one wire alt.
I have same dakota gauges, not bright enough in daylight, due to our cars sunken in dash design, ALL l.e.d. gauges terrible with any glare, that is their downfall, but very viewable at night, however.
Run a rebuilt duraspark dizzy, G.M. h.e.i. just ugly, my opinion.

 

[JDuvall]

Use 3 wire , not one wire alternator, car needs voltage sensing at dash fuse panel to keep voltage drop low. only farm tractors use one wire alt.
I have same dakota gauges, not bright enough in daylight, due to our cars sunken in dash design, ALL l.e.d. gauges terrible with any glare, that is their downfall, but very viewable at night, however.
Run a rebuilt duraspark dizzy, G.M. h.e.i. just ugly, my opinion.

Thank you for your input , I will keep it in mind as I continue to work on my 73.

 

[mrgmhale]

I have been collecting some 3G Alternator documents for a little while, trying to get ahead of the curve in the event I ever decide to do this (current alternators on the 73 Mustangs are 1st Generation, but rebuilt with higher winding counts for higher than normal output). Perhaps one or more of these documents will help.

 

[JJU9507]

Basically we need 14.5 V. regulated to fuse panel to obtain best dash lighting, one wire alts, will NOT provide due to no voltage sensing wire to interior fuse panel. Check mad electronics, they have execellent write-up on this subject. MR. Hale is correct to go with a 3Gen ford alternator, just avoid ONE wire conversions!!

Biggest issue with all old cars is weak grounds, will create dim bulbs, heat, melted wires and switches, bulb holders ect. First step is making sure we have 14.5 volts going to fuse panel with alternator charging at idle.

 

[Tnfastbk]

Maybe its because I installed a new harness but mine works just fine.

 

[JDuvall]

Basically we need 14.5 V. regulated to fuse panel to obtain best dash lighting, one wire alts, will NOT provide due to no voltage sensing wire to interior fuse panel. Check mad electronics, they have execellent write-up on this subject. MR. Hale is correct to go with a 3Gen ford alternator, just avoid ONE wire conversions!!

Biggest issue with all old cars is weak grounds, will create dim bulbs, heat, melted wires and switches, bulb holders ect. First step is making sure we have 14.5 volts going to fuse panel with alternator charging at idle.

The one wire alternator should start charging once the rpm’s are above a set level.
The alternator should produce 13-14 volts at this point, no sensing wire needed.
I am sure the 3G is a great alternative.
I think the one wire with 150 amps is a nice alternative and less wiring.
If you have a stock harness your charge light may not work. So there are downsides to it.