Engine tag

[gotenmark]

Hello

I am a car guy who lives in Sweden, and I have put an 351C 2V in my Mustang from 1967.

Before I can drive the car on public roads agian, the Swedish DMV needs to do an inspection of the car.

And if the give me the clearance, I can drive the car on public roads.

The problem I have is that I need to prove that my engine is an 351C 2V from 1972.

And for me to prove that, I need to have the engine tag. Which is lost.

I could order a new tag at Marti Auto Works, but they want a vin number and perhaps a photo of the current tag.

I don't have anything of that.

So I was hoping that someone here could borrow me theirs VIN number and perhaps even an photo on the tag?

//Rikard

 

[delawarebill]

it will be a pain.. but there is a casting number on the side of block. (at least my 302 has) without going to a decoding web site to see what number you'd be looking for... i'd say you should see "D2XXXXX" D=70's and 2=1972

 

[Stanglover]

I wasn't going to get into this one, but Bill is right. You will need to get the casting number and date code off the block which is located just above the starter. It won't be possible to get the head numbers, other than the date codes, without removing the intake manifold and then use a mirror (and camera) to read the head casting numbers. The head date codes are accessible with the valve covers off, look between the springs! An engine tag does not contain the VIN, only 351C- year (72) - 3, ( eg. only, engineering change number) on the top line and month letter and day assembled followed by the engine plant code, which for your engine should be 611, for a 3 speed manual, 600, C6 Auto or 604, FMX auto. This is followed by a plant rotation letter. There were no 4 speed manual trans in 72 on the 351 C 'H' code cars as far as my info goes. A  1972 351C 2V has an engine code "H". ( ref: Kevin Marti's tagbook.)

Perhaps if you can read the block casting numbers and post them, someone can help identify your engine. There are too many variables for me to list here.

Go to http://www.mustangtek.com or www.castingnumbers.info and select Ford, look on page 3. where you can find all the info you need on casting numbers etc. Also a good buy is Kevin Marti's book, The Mustang and Cougar Tagbook (65-73 models)

 I'm sorry, but I don't think anyone is going to give you a VIN number, so I hope this helps get that 351 in your car and on the road.

Geoff.

 

[rvrtrash]

Ford didn't build 351c's in 1967. It would have to be 1970 or later. If you look at the top left rear of the block, Right in front of where the transmission mates up, there will be a number roughly stamped into a flat that will start with a number and then a letter, then 6 numbers. That is the partial VIN that the engine came out of. The first number is the year and the letter is the plant. As an example, 2FXXXXXX would be 1972, from Dearborn. You will need an inspection mirror to see it, as the flat is vertical. Hopefully that will help you out.

Steve

 

[Stanglover]

Ford didn't build 351c's in 1967. It would have to be 1970 or later. If you look at the top left rear of the block, Right in front of where the transmission mates up, there will be a number roughly stamped into a flat that will start with a number and then a letter, then 6 numbers. That is the partial VIN that the engine came out of. The first number is the year and the letter is the plant. As an example, 2FXXXXXX would be 1972, from Dearborn. You will need an inspection mirror to see it, as the flat is vertical. Hopefully that will help you out.

Steve

 Steve, quite right. I totally forgot about the partial VIN. Mine was virtually machined off and for years I didn't even know there was a VIN number there until ALL the paint was removed. I mention that because our friend may have to do some scraping to find it. Also, if it begins with a 1XXXXX, it will be from a Mustang and if it starts with a 5XXXXX, it's from a Cougar. My spare block is 5XXXXX and someone on the forum clued me in to that fact. This is all good help to get our friend on the road. The UK has similar rules if I remember as the engine number is logged in the registration to the car in question. Maybe Pegleg can clarify that.

 

[gotenmark]

Thanks for all the answers. I will definitely lock at the back of the engine for the VIN nummber. Did they stamped those numbers when the engine was completely finished? Perhaps they stamped the engine at same time it got it's the metal tag.

I have bought the Tag book from Kevin Marti, but it takes a little while.

I have seen on some tags that there is the letter "K" in front of the engine code, what does it stand for?

 

[judge]

You can order engine decals from NPD also.

 

[Stanglover]

Thanks for all the answers. I will definitely lock at the back of the engine for the VIN nummber. Did they stamped those numbers when the engine was completely finished? Perhaps they stamped the engine at same time it got it's the metal tag.

I have bought the Tag book from Kevin Marti, but it takes a little while.

I have seen on some tags that there is the letter "K" in front of the engine code, what does it stand for?

  I just took at look at my Tag Book, The K in this case is the prefix letter to the engine code, K was used on 67-70, 71-72 and denotes Non-thermactor, non California. On a 73 it denoted EGR, non-thermactor, non California.

Now, here's an interesting quirk. my car IS a California car with a DSO number of 72 which is San Jose California. According to the book, my prefix ought to be KK non-thermactor, California, but it's not.

As for the vin numbers stamped into the block, I believe they were stamped at the time the engine build was started, when the block was pulled off the stack. When the back surfaces were milled, that area got milled at the same time. Being a former machinist (amongst other things) I got sh*t many times for not stamping deep enough to allow for machine clean up. This happens on these blocks too, so it depends on how the numbers were stamped as to how visible they are now. On my engine, I did not even know there was a number there under the paint until during a rebuild last year. Even then they are feint and barely visible. 

Hope that helps a little,

Geoff.