Fabrice's 429CJ 71 project

[Fabrice]

@72Mach168Cam

Thx, tho, what I publish is more "HOW I DO IT's" vs claiming I know how to!

So today, while @Vinnie 200km away was doing fantastic metal shaping in his garage probably as cold as mine,

I went back to thinner air. Literraly!



The direct clutch open yesterday was on the menu. One of the surprisingly few damages caused to the trans that stayed 25+ years open exposed to the reknown dry air of the Netherlands, was to be seen on the outter direct drum. Few spots of corrosions. Nothing alarming, but as the tension band, is in direct contact with it, separated with a tiny film of oil. The picky old monkey that I am, would not let that potentially become a source of abrasion. So after a good cleaning, gave some polishing love to the surface and as the idea is to not be abrasive, removed and cleaned the polishing paste till I'd get no contamination on a clean cotton rag.

Few elbow oil drops later, got all my parts pristine and shiny where they needed to be.



Time to put it back together. Same as for the other clutches, as you really don't want to ruin the friction plates on the first rotations dry. Letted them soak all the oil they wanted till I would need them. Then once all was cleaned up, the piston and its free floating vent ball, needed get back in first. Now that the O-rings were new, it wasn't that easy, so Mr Wood helped to tap it gently into its deepest location.

Then applied the Goo trick, that was so handy for the reverse clutch, dipped each spring and placed them back in the expected patern. With the cover also filled with goo, it was then easy to set the compressor in place without any problems. Note here that if you do so, its a good idea to already have the snap-ring around the compressor axle, because it also shows you right away how to dispatch space onto the cover to allow the snap ring to fit. Once compressed and the ring groove exposed, the snap ring goes in it without any efforts.

Reassembled alternating steals and my desired 4 frictions plates.

I'll let the pressure plate machined this week and if the expected gap is as I plan it to be, next weekend, I should then mark the direct clutch done.



Next were the rear planets, where aside checking very well to detect any sidewards play into the gears bearings, it was all about cleaning. Same for the sun gear assembly where lots of time goes into removing all the ancient deposits from each and every tooth. There are quite a few teeth and of course that's where all the ancient deposits are!

Once all was degreased with love, it was time to make it greasy again!

At this point the entire transmission guts are now ready to go back in (once I'll have the pressure plate machined)



(sad music with violins playing while camera pans over the poor super dirty valve body )



After a good but superficial cleaning prepped the "work station" for next weekend where all will be about giving a second life to the valve body, and implement this SK6 reprogramming kit, aka shift kit.

I plan to study more on this during the week before do anything, as there are few instructions already in conflict with some videos that I've seen on the subject using this kit on this manual. I also can't get why they can't provide the few pages of this manual with specific targets (diesel, trucks, (race/towing) cars) vs pushing if and else and or's all over the place to save 1 or 2 piece of paper... Also got 2 gaskets with tiny diffs, but none marked as "Hi, I'm the one you need"...

There are also terms I can't make cheese of. Like to pick the springs combo for shiftings: "shorter and smooth, shorter and firm, firm but not for hotrods...".

No real data about what is really happening. How the old French monkey me is supposed to pick the right combo???

Anyway, started be really cold and totally high from thinner air, called it a day.

To be continued...

 

[midlife]

To address the problem of thin air, did you ever think of using your air compressor to make it thicker? Hmmm?

 

[Vinnie]

So today, while @Vinnie 200km away was doing fantastic metal shaping in his garage probably as cold as mine

10C in mine. I reckon it was colder in yours since you're more to the north-east. Once you start having fun you warm up anyway

You have a heater? Hornbach has pretty decent ones for not too much money. I got one but my garage is too big for it with the insanely high ceiling...

 

[Fabrice]

Just like past weekend, it was 4C ( 39.2 F ) in garage today...

Ideal temperature to not shake while handling all these little parts



First I went check if the direct clutch pressure plate that I've let machined this week was as ok as the one done last week for the forward clutch: Spot on as well!

Very happy about that. This means I can now put all back together!

Because my garage is limited in space, as the trans is on the table vertically and would need be set horizontally eating up my workable space, decided to handle the next and last patient before reassemble everything. Time for the most puzzely and delicate part of all: the valve body.



With its exterior pre cleaned last weekend and the last 2 screws removed, I open it and as expected, each and every bit of it was full of crap and it was clear there was some cleaning fun in perspective..

Chances to be high again because of thinner, pretty realistic



As I've prepped the "surgery" this past week by looking at docs, videos, manuals, convert all inches values to human readable units etc...

One thing was obvious: you can't possibly expect if not familiar with each component, to remember where they'd all go, their specific order and orientation.

Once again, my handy Dr Oetker pizza boxes were back in the game but in a new form this time! Folding one in an accordeon fashion gave me the ideal tray to lay each series of valves and parts within each corresponding row. Keeping everything together.



Then it was time to fill the tray. Amazing the amount of little things hidden in that thing. It's not called valve body for nothing really!

The safe trick to remove everything without any surprises (meaning not look for UFO's on the ground later on) is basically to keep pressure on all the plates that you need to remove and slowly depress to not only reveal what's underneath and prevent anything to fly away, but more importantly, keep track visually (picture) of the order in which valves are inserted, as sometimes you'll get a spring first and a valve after or vice versa, sometimes mixes of that.



In the movies, I've seen on the topic or the shift kits install. You see the hero mechanic guy open the really not as dirty as mine valve body. Then the video is cut and the guy installs the pristine parts.

In the real world, the cut is worth a few hours of tedious cleaning. No industrial wash machine means go thru each and every corner, little holes, get the dirt and ancient deposits out and stop only when the part is really really clean. Then air dry it, and make sure there are no residues left over. As there is no way for particles to escape once in there, they would soon or later jam a valve, as they have really tight tolerances.



Once all is clean and shiny, you look at everything and think: what can possibly go wrong???

The folded Dr Oetker box trick turned out to be very helpful !



Puzzle time! Each and every part needs go back in in right order and orientation, be checked once more for cleanness, oiled and because I'm installing a shift kit, replacing the springs supposed to be replaced for the valve I was handling. Its also a very good idea to test/rotate the valve/springs combos, as there is a chance they'd not want take their exact place right away. Notice the hole on the plate that needed be drilled larger (1.9 to 2.1mm). Another drilling on the body, to create a bridge between 2 channels that was detailed in the manual was skipped, as it was not only in conflict with at least 2 other shops videos that I've seen, but also recommended by Ken, Bad Shoes production, to be avoided. Ment for race and heavy towing condition only.

And then I needed be 30kms away in 30 minutes. I'll finish this tomorrow...

 

[Fabrice]

Music on, heater on.

Back to the valve body!



Before finish to assemble the valve body, already set the later to be installed band soak in oil and picked

one of the 2 provided gaskets. Looking against the light thru the perfored plate, the one not obfuscating any hole was my guy.

Then updated one by one all the valves with the shift kit springs. Tho it wasn't as easy as it sound as yellow springs were almost without paint on them and looking more green than yellow, the green were looking blueish and between orange,red and brown the nuances were very subtile. I guess paint is expensive these days and transGo needs to minimise costs. On their product page tho, the springs are nicely coloured. Their shapes/coils counts ended up compared to the originals a way to verify the colours!

The valve body was then in two solid pieces.



One last check on any particles, then placed the new valve, oiled all the valves from within the channels, placed the checkball and other spring and made a nice sandwich. That when you are happy to have made pictures and kept bolts regrouped, because there are a few of different length and being able to look back 3 weeks turned out to be very handy. All first hand tight, following the assembly order, the two sides kind of auto align, and it was then time to torque all of the bolts finishing by adding the new filter screen.

Valve body: done!



The guts already assembled last week, I only needed to install first the reverse planet in the back of the trans, and then play lego with the direct clutch, forward clutch and sun gear.



When I say easy as Lego, I didn't mean LIGHT as Lego. because once this "urn" is locked, fully indexed, it needs to be placed onto the input shaft at the very end the trans, that with practically no way to hold/support it confortably. It felt as it was like 3x more heavy than when outside. But got lucky and thanks to Mr Goo, all went smooth and engaged in one pass. One trick Ken gave me, is to place a wrench underneath the drum and it supports itself, while you can take your time to install the band. Worked as a charm.

With the tensionner already screwed a few threads, you only have to suffer the weight again for a few seconds while you lock the retainers on the band and you can let it go.



Then the pump. The 3 oil passages need to match the ones on the casing, then using the input shaft as a guide and 2 screwdrivers, it went straight in without much effort, only because the outer 0-ring is new, the last bits to be fully inserted asked a tad more persistence but as all was goo'ed, all was in in matter of seconds.

and then silence: DANG, where are the pump bolts????

Totally forgot about these!! All I know if that they were not on the pump and recall there were extra bolts mixed with engine bolts cleaned up last year.

Looked everywhere and finally found the whole 7 of them. But they were rusted. No way I'm gonna put them back like this on my restored pump!! So the plating emergency protocol was started right away and a little over an hour later, I was able to resume the pump install: torqued the ex-rusty's to specs and ended up with a bling bling look matching my shafts



After setting the band tension to specs (tho, will relook at this this week as I have no way to compare anything for this), air tested the pistons, the governor (nice noise) and installed the valvebody.

C6 Trans is done!!!

Or better said almost done, because I have a converter, a new pan with a new bolts set still at Chicago airport, and bought in China this made in USA (say what?) Lokar KD cable for 1/10th of the price. While the brackets are making more sense in the C6 kit than for the FMX, it's still a half backed silly thingy and now that the trans is out, it will be easy to make new KD brackets for a 100% cable fit and also test/redo the shifter linkage that is looking very suspicious... Need also to test the restored dipstick on it as well, make teflon cooler and vacuum lines..

All with all, very happy to have it all back together, looking good and to ok specs.

Learned tons on the internals while busy and to be honest, it's not that hard once it makes sense. It's just an insane amount of rings to sort out

Last but not least, even with the extra tools I've bought for this, it's a massive saving post. Not to mention I was able to properly paint it while apart and re-plate parts.

Something that would not have been possible at a shop. Now I need a long warm shower.

To be continued...

 

[midlife]

You're not going to confess about the left over parts? Hmmmm?

 

[JD79]

Very impressive !

 

[NOT A T5]

There's always leftover parts  :whistling:

 

[Fabrice]

Dank je! @JD79

@midlife, @NOT A T5

Lol, tho you are both right! There is actually a bunch of left overs. Fortunately, nothing that should be inside is still outside!

The shift kit on itself comes with many springs for different applications (C6 version but also diesel etc..)

The overhaul kit also came with extra o-rings, gaskets etc ment for variation of the C6, covering 67-pre 76.

and also two extra sets of frictions that couldn't be squeezed in there.

Lots of used left overs too. All the original but replaced springs. I will not used them again in a trans, but if I need a spring for something else, its always nice to have a few spares in different dimensions and forces. Also bought a new bottom beveled pressure plate in case of for nothing.

Rest is ancient rubbers, o-rings and metal rings good for garbage. So yeah plenty left overs!

 

[Fabrice]

No parts arrived this week, some delayed by almost 2 weeks.. pfff

Oh well, plenty to do. The trans internals now done, I had lots of mess to clean up first, boxes to sort, rests to throw away..

Let the 73 warm up (excellent way to get some welcome heat in the garage too)

Once the surgery table was free, it was time to look at the next patient, still transmission related: the shifter and its linkage.

Not planning to have a dirty shifter or rusty linkage near my bling bling trans!!



In order to remove it, I needed first to remove the top of the console with its optional extra holes, multiple screw types and a wonderfully installed and wired genuine 1980 electronic clock... Nothing better than a big bad household connector block to connect all this high tech equipment and secure all with Mechano parts...



Removal is pretty straight forward, 4 bolts to remove under the carpet on each corner of the shifter plate, surprisingly all originals and even saw that the harness unlike most of the electrics in the car, is original and in dirty but ok state.

Even discovered that the feed and 2 bulb sockets for the clock are still there, but not the clock. Preserved under the dirty carpet.

I'll deal with interior stuff much later, but I already know now, that I'll have to locate parts, repair and fabricate a few details too for that console... Also found some major cracks into the plastic that will need some heat.



Well, just like everything else, I wasn't expecting to find anything pristine, as far as I can see, it's all there and looks pretty original while from a distance when I removed the trans, I thought it was modified. Nicely preserved under tons of grease. One can wonder how on earth is it even possible to have so much there... oh well, it's good news as this tells me I have a rust free tunnel and lower firewall!



To put that thing apart for a good inspection before a massive clean up and restoration. The path to follow is obvious, but the practice a bit less. First the linkage needed go out, as it's always in the way during manipulations. Just 1 nut, but without vice and bits of leverage, no way to unscrew it. Then comes the contact plate hold, bit deep to access the tiny bolts head, also acting as ground, then the harness, where you need to push the grommet inside the casing and pass the wires thru the hole.

No more rubber (dust shield) in the indicator, and the PRDN21 letters are in need of a colour refresh. On the other side of the casing, some dried out rubber seal need go out and isn't reusable. The lever nut lock needs go out. It becomes accessible once the grommet (or what is left of it) is removed. It required some work, as it wasn't working with me. Had to re-engage the nut, and tap on it to extract it and provide some leverage from the other side to get it loose.

There is a lot of sideway play on this shifter lever, so ordered months ago some bushings that I'll use on the way back to fix this. Tho looking at it, I might also solder some aluminium in there instead, or both..

Then the tiny alen screw from the lever handle needs go out.



Same sized alen for the dial indicator. I know the plastic marker (red mark) are in repop, but haven't seen the blue screen, so handled that one with care. Had to use a 5mm head bolt wrench for that one. Can't recall any bolts with such tiny heads on the entire car.

Then under the grease, found some flat screw head to loose the outer end, which is basically the tensioner of the little button that you pressed with your thumb (wait, how do Aussies and Brits do this when they move steer to right side? With their pinkies?? ) to be able to move the shifter from gear to gear. Usually this doesn't really need to be done, but noticed the button had to be pressed bit to much to allow movement on the teeth of the selector plate, so to tune it as I want it to be, I first wanted to see if nothing was wrong with the cable , but it needs to be cleaned up to receive new grease anyway. Not gonna skip steps on a 50 years shifter, tho I will not push the pin out on the other end as all can be cleaned and is accessible with a brush with bits of solvent.

And then the shifter became puzzle!

That's a bunch of parts for something that you think is a simple lever on a plate...



While some parts are taking an acid bath for the nite, started to clean up the casing. It will remain in soda for the nite...

Soapy & bubbly Sunday in perspective I'm afraid

 

[Don C]

Excellent attention to detail, as always.

Fortunately they do reproduce the blue diffuser, mine turned to small fragments and dust in my fingertips.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/filter-shift-indicator-light-exact-repro-us-made-c8oz-15811-a/200277/203311

 

[NOT A T5]

There's a video on West Coast Classic Cougar about rebuilding the shifter plus the blue diffuser is available as well as hardware and such.

 

[Fabrice]

@Don C , @NOT A T5

Didn't know it was avail. Tho, I won't need it, mine is in one piece and I was able to clean it pretty well, very carefully with alcohol. It doesn't look as new, but fairly ok and it will diffuse as expected.



As expected today was a soapy bubbly vinegary party and re- plated all the hardware.

Some were nicely preserved beneath the thick layer of greasy filth, others pitted as seen on previous post. Plated everyone.



In between alternating parts in my bubble bath, cleaned up the electrics. Partly with agressive thinner to remove the loads of grease on the sleeve and rubber, the rest with alcohol. Gently brushed all the connections and finished by applying a good layer of plastic/rubber restorer so they'd be dust and moisture free for a while.

Meanwhile all the hardware was now looking pristine and I just needed to reassemble.

Before being able to do that, I needed find back the bushings that were, I perfectly recall, white and in a small in a small plastic bag. Somewhere in my cave...



After 1/2 hour searching in vain, totally not where they should be, instead of loosing time, I went working on the console cap/selector cover.

After a good alcohol clean up, removed the dial screen and the rest of what was a rubber dust shield. Taking care of not breaking the plastic. There are some nasty little clips that needs to be helped to allow them to go out. using a tiny screwdriver as lever, none of the plastic tabs were broken.

After a good clean, it was obvious the ancient plastic lost some of its glory, whitish in the lows, so did what worked nicely on my wife's Mini plastic trims. Sprayed a thin layer of semi gloss black from a distance and spread it while wet with a cotton cloth dipped in thinner.

Then pushed in one of the rubber dust shield in place, this time using a socket to press the clips back in, that I had also bended the opposite way so they'd do the expected once in place.

I do not like the way the rubber sticks to the lever despite some plastic restorer. I think I'll go for some teflon. If anyone as a trick for this, let me know as I recall it's the lack of lubrication that eventually tear them apart. @isostatic pubic air solution for this might be better...

Then returned searching for the bushings and finally found them back!

Not white, not in a bag, but black and in a labeled box!

That's the kind of clues I get these days, reminding me that my 25 birthday was long ago



With the bushings finally in my hands, few moments later, got my shifter assembly and linkage back together. All lubricated, clean and working as new. My eyes were totally pleased with what they saw!

Just like the transmission, most is done but it's not finished yet:

- The plastic gear indicator is now looking great after some cleaning/polishing, but the letters P, R and N have lost bits of their white. The D green is not looking great at all. The 1 and 2, that I now remark being light grey, are ok (not on the picture for some reason). So need to buy and apply some hobby paint for this. If anyone done this and have better idea, please shoot!

- The T handle is really pitted. I could polish it and nickel plate it, but I want white chrome. Chrome being too dangerous, as I saw they are repopped, I'll order a new one. Unless someone has an original, non pitted for sale, PM me as I'd preffer an original.

- The plug is in really bad shape. I could fix it, glue it back, but I think this 65-66 should do fine. (Haven't look hard for a 71-73 yet)

https://www.npdlink.com/product/plug-shift-control-adjust-hole/106036/203311

To be continued...

 

[OzCoupe72]

Epic job on the transmission and shifter Fabrice

I might have a T handle but would need to check it is correct and in good condition when I get home tonight

I was going to use the original T-bar set up but due to RHD conversion was going to be difficult so I have a few spares left over

Maybe PM me with what you're after and will check it out tonight

 

[Fabrice]

Finally a little update!

Past 2 weeks were very cold and very wet. Not to mention I had limited time and some of the parts I need to be able to finish some of the current projects

were kept at airports for much much longer than usual... Wanted to post during the week and then forgot



I did many little things not worth mentioning but that needed be done for both the 73 and the 71.

Like plating a few things on the block as I've noticed that the corrosion wasn't taking vacation, some other bolts here and there I didn't like the look of.



Also started prep the valves covers that I've de-rusted last year for a paint job, as I haven't found yet a pair of original aluminium ones

and don't think I will find a pair for a decent price. Decided to give the old taiwanese beauties a massage, which I'll of course will be able to finish only when weather will be much better.



Then finished another thing that what was on the todo for months: apply a second layer on the engine now that all gaskets and sealant were cut. The top sides of the heads, that were still bare metal needed also to be done. After a thin layer of primer applied, sanded, applied the final coat of the Ford grey.



While some people are happy when they get something new, I was very happy that the package that was held in Chicago for almost a month finally arrived this past week with old dirty plastic stuffs Goodies I bought on the forum more than 2,5 months ago, like a pair of small front splash guards with their genuine indiana's dirt. The trans pan and a bolt kit and more goodies... all made possible thanks to @TonyMuscle who played mailbox for me. Received also other stuffs like polyurethane bushings, as I start to collect parts for the rear and suspension in general...

Happy days!



After so much wait, I went straight on the new pan for the C6, bought it a day that my mouse was too sensitive, as it was cheap and most importantly, had a plug and magnet. I still have the original, but it saves me the welding I was planning. Oh well, for once i have something new

Cleaned it very well and oil it already inside a bit as the chrome isn't that thick and it will take some months before I'm busy checking oil level..

As I do not have any bolts for the pan, I've ordered a nice set of SS bolts and washers too... unfortunately, the trans requires 16 of these, and there were only 15. So spent the next 1/2 hour looking in package papers and protection plastic if the 16th was in there... nope. 15 bolts, 16 washers

Oh well, no biggy let's install, I'll use some spare bolt I have at the less visible location... Not! Turns out the bolts are too long and hit the cast in the holes that do not go thru. At least 8 of them do not fit... grrr, can't finish the trans this weekend. C6 bolts pan kit they say...



Frustrated, I've let the bling bling aside and went blow some steam on the indiana's dirt. Not obvious how bad on the picts, there were covered in some asphalt residues, like you would get on a fresh road. Took a few cc's of thinner to remove all, but eventually after a good massage and a plastic finish, got them looking better than the average splash guards you'd see around if you could! With the missing long one found and all 4 now restored, I can mark these as done.



Another desapointment with the goodies... I have on the 73 a set of copper gaskets for decades, headers/exhaust were disconnected many times, and everytime I needed a new gasket till I tried copper gaskets. Always in perfect shape, no paste needed, and no leaks when bolted correctly. They removed the need to wait 2 weeks and the costs for a new pair each time I needed the exhaust to be removed...

So of course I want the same for the 71 and ordered a pair. They have the same description as my old ones but obviously the quality lost some points over the years.

They now come as simple flat cuts. No more extra volume around the center hole to seal even better, they are also 1/2 the thickness of my old ones and what is totally idiotic, the center hole isn't even center between the 3 bolts holes! There is in the collector plenty space for the gasses, but man if you stamp parts as simple as these for the price they are sold and make hundreds of them, what about checking first if the holes are set where they should be before making any? I guess a hole is just a hole for some...

So will need to file them on a side between 2 holes just because it annoys me At least the holes for the bolts are ok and where they should be.



Some used parts necessary to complete my shifter assembly are somewhere between here and Australia (thx to @OzCoupe72 ), but one detail needed be done that I could do with local stuff. I've ordered a roll of self adhesive rubber 2mm thick that I wanted to have in house for multiple things. As I've noticed the shifter was having some kind of plastic film with sealant when I've removed it, I thought I'd do ok making a rubber gasket instead. Cleaner to install and to remove if needed. So made a quick template with my pizza box (was last one, need eat bad next week!!) I hope the missing parts will be here next week so I can finish this shifter.

I have some aluminium ready to make some parts on tomorrow's menu, that should accupy me for a few hours.

For now I need to define what the "ideal" size of these #$%^ pan bolts must be in the chinese to me inches and order another new set asap.

If anyone knows, please shoot!

 

[Don C]

This is what the hardware spreadsheet lists for the stock pan:

5/16-18X17/32HH,REC,FLNG 0.59,1/2HEX,GR5

This is on row 1116 of the spreadsheet provided by bkdunha:

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-71-73-hardware-information

He also provided updates, with additional information:

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-71-73-hardware-listing-from-concourse-forum

 

[NOT A T5]

Great work as usual, but why do you live in a cave? Wet and cold you say? How do you generate electricity?  :whistling:

 

[Fabrice]

@NOT A T5

In my cave it's dry and smells Mustang. I wish I could live in there

Oh thank you @Don C

"5/16-18X17/32HH,REC,FLNG 0.59,1/2HEX,GR5" that line alone saves me the conversion headaches!

I've spent the day painting walls in my oldest daughter's new place, will look at this tomorrow...

 

[Fabrice]

This is what the hardware spreadsheet lists for the stock pan:

5/16-18X17/32HH,REC,FLNG 0.59,1/2HEX,GR5

Was bugging me, so thanks to your info, went seek in my 35 year old US Ford only rusty spare box of bolts & nuts.

and what do you know: I had 16 of these (even more) in house the whole time without me even knowing!

Not sure where I got them from, but hey, who cares I have them!!

Guess I'll be plating them soon. For now they are already enjoying an acid bath!

 

[Fabrice]

Because the acid had done its work and because there was nothing on TV that could beat the idea of bling bling pan bolts.

Been busy in my cold garage last nite..



Out of their 24 hours acid bath, they went one by one take an electric massage, PH balanced, wooled and finished oiled/dried.

Pretty happy with my ex rusty bolt set