Feedback on 1971 M-code I am looking at

[TxBoss23]

Congrats and welcome to the family!

 

[tony-muscle]

Now reality sinks in and started worrying about silly stuff, such as:

-What octane to use? From what I read, probably highest octane at the pump.

-What oil to use? I read a lot about zinc additives maybe needed.

-Fitting a child seat on rear seat. My 2.5 y/o really wants to ride on it.

 

[turtle5353]

Now reality sinks in and started worrying about silly stuff, such as:

-What octane to use? From what I read, probably highest octane at the pump.

-What oil to use? I read a lot about zinc additives maybe needed.

-Fitting a child seat on rear seat. My 2.5 y/o really wants to ride on it.

Congrtas on a beautiful car. I run 93 octane. you should be fine with that.

As far as a child seat, that's no problem. Both my sons have used a car seat in the back. Oldest son is 7 now and youngest is almost 2. My wife and boys all go together to shows all the time.

Load the kids up and enjoy.

 

[tony-muscle]

As far as a child seat, that's no problem. Both my sons have used a car seat in the back. Oldest son is 7 now and youngest is almost 2.

Thanks Turtle, I assume that I can get the OEM belt strap around the bottom of the seat, but did you add a seat anchor to attach the strap at the rear of the seat?

 

[cudak888]

Kurt, can you please expand on this one a little more. Does that radiator work for a 351 or will it be too small?

First off, congratulations! ::beer::

In answer to your question: 302's from the factory came with radiators with two rows of copper piping; 351C cars (4V, anyway) such as yours came with three-core radiators.

Honestly, I don't know if that 2-core will be too small. The stamping on top doesn't look like a factory 2-core, so it's probably a copper/brass replacement from the '80s or 1990s. I might even be mistaken and it may be a 3-core that looks like the factory 2-core from the top. Before you even listen to anything below, check to see how many rows of copper tubing run through your radiator. If three, ignore my yadda-yadda here

That said, here is a photo of a 3-core in my '71 M-code. The flanges on top are quite deep and spaced apart:

Now, when I got my '72 Q-code, I threw a 2-core radiator in it just to start it up. These aren't the best photos, but they should illustrate the thinner depth:

Whether the replacement 2-core's specs meet or exceed factory 2-core specifications, I wouldn't know.

My best advice? Drive it. If it overheats, check to make sure you have the right Cleveland thermostat in it. If you do, swap the radiator, if not, install thermostat, repeat. If it continues to overheat, swap the radiator to a 3-core.

-Kurt

 

[turtle5353]

As far as a child seat, that's no problem. Both my sons have used a car seat in the back. Oldest son is 7 now and youngest is almost 2.

Thanks Turtle, I assume that I can get the OEM belt strap around the bottom of the seat, but did you add a seat anchor to attach the strap at the rear of the seat?

I just put the stock lap belt through the back. I don't use the extra strap that guts used in new cars as tie down. You can pull the stock belt really nice and tight and car seat doesn't move at all.

FYI, my car was originally a 302 car and I am still running the stock radiator in it with my 408 Cleveland stroker with 0 overheating issues. I think a lot of it has to do with running the proper shroud.

 

[Boss1Ray]

First - congrats on your purchase - as I said it is a very nice looking car.

As for the mods, Kurt identified the ones I saw and then some!

Th big one for me is the lower bright molding with the side stripes.

That molding is tough to come by in nice shape and it requires extra work to install.

Since most 71-3 Mustangs are running these stripes it becomes a rare event to see an original non-stripe car running the correct lower bodyline brightwork. To anyone who has happily modded their car the added stripes

I do respect your choices. If I was going to do that mod I would go ahead and do it more correct and remove the bightwork, paint the lower body contrast color (either argent or black) and add the adjacent pinstripe running along where the molding went. Just a more accurate stock appearing mod.

Ray

 

[Mister 4x4]

To anyone who has happily modded their car the added stripes I do respect your choices. If I was going to do that mod I would go ahead and do it more correct and remove the bightwork, paint the lower body contrast color (either argent or black) and add the adjacent pinstripe running along where the molding went. Just a more accurate stock appearing mod.

I did that with mine - removed the lower bright work... mostly because the 4 pieces on the fenders were missing anyway. That, and I knew I would be going with stripes eventually.

 

[Don65Stang]

Congrats on buying a really nice looking car. My personal favorites are M-codes in blue.

 

[jeff8877]

Congrats Tony..very nice car and you have come to the right place for help.

 

[73StangCoupe]

Congrats Tony... she looks like a real beauty and also very familiar!!

All kidding aside, looks like a great car for a very reasonable price. Good score! I don't think I would have let that go for $19K...

Yeah, same colors as yours. I love this color...

Hey Tony,

Use the highest octane available, we have 93. I've tried the marine non ethanol and 87 octane. It's way more expensive and I didn't feel any difference. As for oil, based on lots of recommendations from the folks on this site, I use Valvoline VR1 and change it every 6 months. Good luck.

 

[rpmcarter]

I ended closing the deal for $19,000, including the Hanmecson portable garage lift the guy had (similar to this one http://www.hanmecsonlift.com/HPMR6000.asp). This lift is awesome and can handle up to 6,000 lbs. It will make my life easier with the Mach 1 and with my current cars. I am also getting the car cover, an extra tire and some spare gauges and mirrors.

Thanks for those that PM me with their cars for sale. This one is a little above my budget, but it is in great shape and don't need to deal with shipping a car cross country and all the complications that come with.

Now my participation in this forum will shift from a Mach 1 want-a-be to a Mach 1 owner.

Wow 9,000 more than MINE...awesome!

 

[Luke]

Nice looking ride congrats.

 

[tony-muscle]

Wow 9,000 more than MINE...awesome!

You asked me for $14,500.

 

[Jim and Jutta]

Congrats Tony... she looks like a real beauty and also very familiar!!

All kidding aside, looks like a great car for a very reasonable price. Good score! I don't think I would have let that go for $19K...

Yeah, same colors as yours. I love this color...

Hey Tony,

Use the highest octane available, we have 93. I've tried the marine non ethanol and 87 octane. It's way more expensive and I didn't feel any difference. As for oil, based on lots of recommendations from the folks on this site, I use Valvoline VR1 and change it every 6 months. Good luck.

Ditto on highest octane available and I also run the Valvoline VR1 oil, very nice looking car, personally I think you did good, welcome to the club.

Jim

 

[OMS]

Kurt, can you please expand on this one a little more. Does that radiator work for a 351 or will it be too small?

First off, congratulations! ::beer::

In answer to your question: 302's from the factory came with radiators with two rows of copper piping; 351C cars (4V, anyway) such as yours came with three-core radiators.

Honestly, I don't know if that 2-core will be too small. The stamping on top doesn't look like a factory 2-core, so it's probably a copper/brass replacement from the '80s or 1990s. I might even be mistaken and it may be a 3-core that looks like the factory 2-core from the top. Before you even listen to anything below, check to see how many rows of copper tubing run through your radiator. If three, ignore my yadda-yadda here

That said, here is a photo of a 3-core in my '71 M-code. The flanges on top are quite deep and spaced apart:

Now, when I got my '72 Q-code, I threw a 2-core radiator in it just to start it up. These aren't the best photos, but they should illustrate the thinner depth:

Whether the replacement 2-core's specs meet or exceed factory 2-core specifications, I wouldn't know.

My best advice? Drive it. If it overheats, check to make sure you have the right Cleveland thermostat in it. If you do, swap the radiator, if not, install thermostat, repeat. If it continues to overheat, swap the radiator to a 3-core.

-Kurt

The rads I have seen with flat tops [ like the one in your green car ] are aftermarket

If it is a Ford rad it will have a D1, D2, D3 stamping on it.

 

[tony-muscle]

The Marti report for the car does not say anything about the RAM air or A/C options. Is there a way to find out if these were added afterwards by past owners or the dealer?

 

[OMS]

If they were factory the Marti report would list them

 

[72MustangSprint]

Nice car, prob my fav color combo. I think you answered your own question. Like Don said, if its not on Marti then added later. Did p.o say what was on the car when he got it? You could trace history back to figure out who added the non-stock items. Post the Marti report if you like, would love to see it. You can block last six of vin for security.

 

[cudak888]

The Marti report for the car does not say anything about the RAM air or A/C options. Is there a way to find out if these were added afterwards by past owners or the dealer?

If not in the Marti, they were added later.

Pop your cowl vents and check for a cowl hat on the driver's side. If you find one there, it's definitely a non-A/C car.

-Kurt