Her 72 Mach 1

[72Mach168Cam]

I've enjoyed reading other builds and have learned much about 71-73 Mustangs. I came to this website seeking knowledge and will continue to do so. 

I bought the 1972 Mach 1 for my wife 12 years ago. Originally Ivy glow paint, green interior, 302, 3 speed, console, gauges, Magnum 500's. Non spoiler, hockey stick stripe. It has a 351W 2v motor installed, with headers that fit very well. It is a 71 casting, possibly out of a Galaxy. I've seen evidence that it might be a low mileage engine. The front of the motor is missing everything except the power steering pump. Even the H2O pump is removed. 

It has sat in our shop for 10 1/2 of those years. My wife disassembled the interior 7-8 years ago. Life got in the way and we are now going on a journey to restore her Mach 1. Neither one of us has the skills or knowledge for the bodywork. At one time we fancied the idea of doing it ourselves. That isn't reality for us at this point. I have at one time or another in my 50 years worked on every part of a car (except setting up rear end gears or rebuilding a transmission). My wife is very mechanically inclined and doesn't mind greasy dirt and oil. We are on the schedule for December to bring the Mach 1 to the bodyshop. So here we go...

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Last night my wife was successful in removing the rear window trim. She also pulled the carburetor and installed an engine lift plate. Temporarily with carb hardware, as we need to buy some appropriate graded bolts for lifting. My brain automatically tells me grade 8, but it has been some years since I studied shear loads and such.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

A full floor replacement is what will take place. The floor condition is what stopped us years ago. It was purchased (cheap) knowing the floors were rotted between the tunnel and rockers.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Engine

 

[72Mach168Cam]

The radiator support got bent when removing the Mustang from the yard it sat in. The yard was covered in dog crap, every, square, inch. My other brother was brave enough to get down on his hands and knees to do the hookup for the tow truck. The tires were flat and the only reason the floor pan wasn't touching the ground was the rear suspension holding up the rear and the oil pan holding up the front. With the stench and dog doo everywhere my other brother mistakenly looped the chain around the first thing that looked like a cross member to pull the Mach 1 out of the dirt so it could be dragged up onto the flatbed tow truck. All these years later my other brother is still offering to pay for a new radiator support. But I reminded him the other day that I have not forgotten all the dog crap and he was the brave one to get down on the ground. Not his fault.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

The previous owner started doing bodywork. Both fenders, hood and passenger door were replaced. Supposedly because they were in better condition. I've not seen evidence of a major front end accident. Probably a minor accident though, because the front valance is gone. The grill and endura bumper aren't damaged, but the bumper bracket on the drivers side is tweaked.

The hood at one time had the ram air components installed, vacuum lines are still there and screw holes and outline are there. Previous owner sold shock tower braces, one rear tail light, rear valance and honeycomb panel.

 

[kcmash]

Looks like someone tried to pull it by the radiator core support.

kcmash

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Looks like someone tried to pull it by the radiator core support.

kcmash

We did. Read post #5. The poop post..... lollerz

Brett

 

[mach71351c]

Take lots of pics from nose to tail and top to bottom. Then take some more pics. Trust me you will need them.

 

[1sostatic]

You're going to need a welder  :chin:

 

[turtle5353]

Looks like a good project. Normal rot on the floor pans. No need for complete pan replacement though, trans tunnel looks to be in good shape. Just buy full length pans one for each side. Dont forget to check the cowl under passenger side. VERY common rot area. Keep the progress and pics coming

 

[Fabrice]

Awesome to work as a couple on a project!

Wish you guys good luck and looking forward to read on your progress!

 

[72Mach168Cam]

I believed all that was needed was full length pans. But the bodyshop we intend to take it to said it was less labor to change the entire floor pan. He also said if we wanted to do just full length pans he was fine with that, letting us know it would be more labor(=more$). He then took us over to a 67 Mustang in his shop that had a full floor replacement in progress and almost comlete. He educated us as to why a full pan was better(spot welds at the rockers/seams vs stich weld), it made sense at the time. I have no practical experience in this area of a restoration and only a mild knowledge base from reading magazine articles, internet forums and one small floor section replaced in a Camaro I used to own that I farmed out to a shop.

Not much progress made yesterday. Mowed the lawn (1 acre) for probably the last time for the year. Still reorganizing/cleaning garage and shop (long overdue even without resto project) to make room for the disassembled Mach 1.

Pictures are taken almost every day. Wife went through a box of parts from PO and discovered a forgotten passenger door mirror!

Haven't pulled fenders yet, but I did stick my hand up through passenger side cowl soup bowl shaped air intake and felt around. Pulling my hand back out it comes back dirty, no signs of reddish orange rust. I do have inspection mirrors, but I figured the fenders are coming off soon anyway.

We never did the title transfer at the dmv. We'll do that today and pay the $25 late fee.

If we end up using the 351W that is in the Mach 1 we need to find a couple pulleys; crankshaft and waterpump also brackets; alternator and power steering pump to H2O pump brackets. We've perused ebay and there are some, but not knowing if the sellers description is correct we haven't bought any yet. My concern for the water pump pulley is it probably has to be 71-73 Mustang specific due to the long front end. Two groove crank pulleys aren't that common either. Not to mention the 71-73 Mustang didn't come with a 351W. I would assume, but not sure yet, that 302 pulleys/brackets would work.

Brett

 

[Hemikiller]

If we end up using the 351W that is in the Mach 1 we need to find a couple pulleys; crankshaft and waterpump also brackets; alternator and power steering pump to H2O pump brackets. We've perused ebay and there are some, but not knowing if the sellers description is correct we haven't bought any yet. My concern for the water pump pulley is it probably has to be 71-73 Mustang specific due to the long front end. Two groove crank pulleys aren't that common either. Not to mention the 71-73 Mustang didn't come with a 351W. I would assume, but not sure yet, that 302 pulleys/brackets would work.

No, most of the pulley and brackets are common to many other vehicles - the Mustang was nothing special.

Clean the pulley and brackets up and post the numbers stamped on them. I can tell you what goes with what and what you will need.

 

[OMS]

If you end up needing the partsI have a 72 cougar with a 351w and it has all the bits on it

 

[72Mach168Cam]

My wife removed the rest of the window trim today. Next we'll be removing the back window. Carefully. It is the original with rear defrost. The windshield isn't original but we'll remove it like it was, as it date codes to a 1978 Carlite and may be reusable after a polish.

No visible rust in the window channels that could have been hidden by the trim. Sure was an amazing amount of packed dirt though, that interfered with the trim tool while popping the clips. Crossing our fingers for "clean" window frames/channels.

I had to winterize the camper today and entertain/feed the younguns so I wasn't much help on the Mustang. But I did do some reorganizing/cleaning of a corner in our shop. I think we gained 4 square feet. Plus I reinforced a particle board shelf unit for the corner of the shop to put stuff in/on.

Brett

 

[Hemikiller]

When you pull the terminals off the rear glass, use a screwdriver to hold the window terminal in place while you remove the power and ground lead. Be very gentle.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

When you pull the terminals off the rear glass, use a screwdriver to hold the window terminal in place while you remove the power and ground lead. Be very gentle.

Thanks!!!! Discussed with the Mrs. so we are on the same page when the time comes. She has researched rear window removal and does have more knowledge than I do. 

As we were locking up the shop for the evening, she asked if I thought if we should buy the suction cup tool that window installers use, they are available on amazon she said. I answered I don't know, probably couldn't hurt. 

Any thoughts on the suction cup tool for glass? I would guess if it's cheap and made in the peoples republic of china it's probably useless.

Had some hardware that was a booger to get out. One was a 1/4" head bolt holding the drivers side coat hangar hook. A factory worker screwed it in so tight it was embedded in the galvanized strip for the headliner. The bolt head rounded off enough that a wrench wouldn't work and a socket would not fit. So I took a chance a taught my wife a trick that after years of wrenching it doesn't seem like a trick. I pounded the crap out of a 6mm socket wedging it on the bolt head and wa-la the bolt unscrewed. I don't know how long she struggled with that booger until she came in the house to get me, but she acted like I parted the red sea or something.

Brett

 

[OMS]

Suction cup tool .... no

rear window take a razor knife and cut the w-strip around the glass - the glass will lift right out.

Tempered glass is VERY strong EXCEPT on the edges

The front window is much more difficult to remove